You could run alcohol if your in coco
Pheno's Perpetual: Ocean Grown Dark Plasma, Other Top Shelf TBD, Breeding For THC-V
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- #402
Phenoman
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Ya im in coco, cool, ill look into alcohol we just restocked too.
Do you pour a mixture directly into the medium?
I was going to bring 2 more girls in from the veg area to give me a mid harvest, but now will wait till I get these under control... If I can.
In the garage its too cold I think. I haven't seen any adults or crawlers. I have cuttings too of everything so worst case can shut it all down. Clean everything.
double
BTW MICHIGAN LEGALIZED IT LAST NIGHT!!! Wooot Woot!! I'm so glad to be home
We can carry 2.5 oz freely, sell to each other freely and everyone can grow 12 plants. Starts in about 10 days but storefronts won't be open for about a year so that gives me time to line up a business and without care get rid of overage to ppl without a card. I'm doing it guys...full steam ahead.
Try my own hand at first order, high end, cannasour, hard to find, Dr. Grinspoon type strains. Just like ppl pay for great spirits, so shall they for great weed
Doing this now here where I'm at. I've been running gear that will never be sold in a dispensary AND is of higher quality than what can be found publicly.
Full service & Free deliveries, all hand trimmed and properly cured.
Whats not to like?
Congrats to Michiganders. That's awesome.
The 550's wood be my on my short list. Nothing quality for LED is going to be cheap. Get what you pay for. I recently installed a 4K - 260QB V2 in my VEG room to try out. Gotta say my VEG room never looked greener. Plants are catching up to my flower ladies.
My short list is :
QB 550
Timber Redwood VS (Vero29) - what I'm using now
SpydrX from Fluence (pricey) - newest tech
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- #405
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
Yes!
Thanks!
Then we had a similar experience!!
I got a 4k $99 65w HLG QB(not sure diode ct.) but its 65w outperforms an older LED Mars 300 at 135w same height by a mile and of course for my veg area I have an HPS 150:\ .. (Got on a trade).
Thr QB HLG65 kills both, easily vegges a 2x2 and with crosslighting the three I get a perfect trifecta to use for plant morphology lol.
I would of course much rather have a ~300w QB setup for turning my 5x5 into veg.
Love it.
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- #406
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
I wonder does anyone think, continually moving plants from one light to another spectrum to control morphology is extraordinarily stressful? They don't seem to mind amd so far I have a very uniform batch for next round coming up using this method. The mars stacks tightest, hlg next/perfect and the hps is lanky. I just move em around. Musical chairs lol.
Shouldn't do any harm to the plants.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
No worries, the spectral output of the sun changes a lot throughout the day and season so they're used to it
This ^^^ I think is right I wouldn't stress on it.
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- #410
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
Aha! That's right! I forget as the sun passes it refracts through the atmosphere and even as cyclical as a 24 hr period can be, I would imagine there are a million things that alter that spectrum even further than curvature of the atmosphere such as pollution or even moisture. Great input
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- #411
Phenoman
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So for all the organic purists, I broke a commandment and used a systemic pesticide in my garden!!
WTF???!!! JK JK I'm sure ppl will disagree but I did a ton of research and this was my decision.
It's actually FOR fruit trees and as long as you wait the half-life there is literally zero danger but being what it is, who made it (Bayer - now under a new name BioAdvanced). Citrus Fruit and Tree insect control.
It's active ingredient is Imidacloprid which is systemic and works on the nicotinic receptors in bugs basically ODing them dead. It has a fast half life for safety and a long period of efficacy.
If you are at least 21 days from harvest, have a sucking bug infestation especially root aphids this might be the only hope, I hate to say...
In my research, this is safe to use for many things and the only reason Cannabis isn't on there is FDA. In the new organic health movement we have condemned all pesticides and I agree, look for a natural method first
...and I did. The problem is reintroduction of the bugs even were I to get rid of them now, who's to say they aren't back in a week? Until I change the environment, this was the logical course.
Nematodes wouldn't have been fast enough, but glad for the research as it's another IPM from now on.
So since i'm nearly out of meds and this is all I have for my medication to keep my head straight. I've cut my opiate dose in half this month...I've come so far...the cannabis is the only thing keeping me sane some nights...
As you all know it's a free for all until next grow, meaning animals galore up and around the tent.
I've filtered the tent but cannot keep it clear of the pets right now. I'm moving the big tent to garage after this grow and going to heat it with lights
Back to the Root Aphid Treatment. The one good thing about this is that a whole slew of sucking insects are now not a worry...provided it doesn't kill the plants.
So saved? yes. Ideal? no...but saved the harvest to a point I'm confident there is no danger to me or my family.
Further information:
Trap Plant = Nasturtiums.
I don't have the time to grow from seed and pied piper them all to the plant but I will keep these in the garden moving forward with the aforementioned chemical in the trap plant, keeping my weed testable as we all know that's coming.
Anyway application is thus:
5-7ml per Gallon of water.
Water with it once only.
They do not discuss potted plants on the label, so common sense said to me "Label says wet the ground the day before" Wait, my plants drink all their water every day!!
...So I applied non-inoculated solution at lights on, waited an hour and came back and applied inoculated solution at 5ml per gallon until runoff. This way the plant had some time to absorb some nutes and water and not a heavy dose of medicine.
After 12 hours, no change to plants other than some possible yellowing on lower leaves, will give a good flush of the medium after lights on today and all the plants should have enough imidacloprid to kill the aphids and anything else that decides to munch until I get some proper organic controls in place.
The chemical is called Imidacloprid as I've mentioned. Here is a funny video that explains one growers use of it...
I will update with photos and if any odd smells, tastes etc.
WTF???!!! JK JK I'm sure ppl will disagree but I did a ton of research and this was my decision.
It's actually FOR fruit trees and as long as you wait the half-life there is literally zero danger but being what it is, who made it (Bayer - now under a new name BioAdvanced). Citrus Fruit and Tree insect control.
It's active ingredient is Imidacloprid which is systemic and works on the nicotinic receptors in bugs basically ODing them dead. It has a fast half life for safety and a long period of efficacy.
If you are at least 21 days from harvest, have a sucking bug infestation especially root aphids this might be the only hope, I hate to say...
In my research, this is safe to use for many things and the only reason Cannabis isn't on there is FDA. In the new organic health movement we have condemned all pesticides and I agree, look for a natural method first
...and I did. The problem is reintroduction of the bugs even were I to get rid of them now, who's to say they aren't back in a week? Until I change the environment, this was the logical course.
Nematodes wouldn't have been fast enough, but glad for the research as it's another IPM from now on.
So since i'm nearly out of meds and this is all I have for my medication to keep my head straight. I've cut my opiate dose in half this month...I've come so far...the cannabis is the only thing keeping me sane some nights...
As you all know it's a free for all until next grow, meaning animals galore up and around the tent.
I've filtered the tent but cannot keep it clear of the pets right now. I'm moving the big tent to garage after this grow and going to heat it with lights
Back to the Root Aphid Treatment. The one good thing about this is that a whole slew of sucking insects are now not a worry...provided it doesn't kill the plants.
So saved? yes. Ideal? no...but saved the harvest to a point I'm confident there is no danger to me or my family.
Further information:
Trap Plant = Nasturtiums.
I don't have the time to grow from seed and pied piper them all to the plant but I will keep these in the garden moving forward with the aforementioned chemical in the trap plant, keeping my weed testable as we all know that's coming.
Anyway application is thus:
5-7ml per Gallon of water.
Water with it once only.
They do not discuss potted plants on the label, so common sense said to me "Label says wet the ground the day before" Wait, my plants drink all their water every day!!
...So I applied non-inoculated solution at lights on, waited an hour and came back and applied inoculated solution at 5ml per gallon until runoff. This way the plant had some time to absorb some nutes and water and not a heavy dose of medicine.
After 12 hours, no change to plants other than some possible yellowing on lower leaves, will give a good flush of the medium after lights on today and all the plants should have enough imidacloprid to kill the aphids and anything else that decides to munch until I get some proper organic controls in place.
The chemical is called Imidacloprid as I've mentioned. Here is a funny video that explains one growers use of it...
I will update with photos and if any odd smells, tastes etc.
- Thread starter
- #412
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
After 24 hours the crawler population is gone.
I saw some mild stress on the plants but just in a somewhat droopy behavior until I flushed the medium.
So instead of waiting an hour and flushing like you would in DWC or something I watered as usual and let them sit in it for the whole 12 hour cycle.
Next day I hit them with a TON of solution mixed with full strength Jack's 321, Mammoth P, Honey, RAW Full-Up. @ ~1.6 e.c. 65-67f. (I've noticed watering colder, close to 68 keeps the temps in the tent way down too. Instead of 77-79 it's closer to 72-74 lights on.) Before our water rarely got below 70f. so refreshing to have to add hot water until I get a warmer.
I'm glad for this experience because I found a way that I will be feeding and flushing from now on. It's easy and seems to get the whole pot evenly, gets air pockets and draws a ton of oxygen down as is seen in small porous holes after the "Flash Flood"
I got a big 2 gallon wash bucket and flash flooded each 3 gallon pot with 2 gallons of solution twice for a total of 4 Gallons of solution through each 3 Gallon pot.
By the end of the 12 hour cycle all of the plants were incredibly erect and happy! Seems even more frost of that's possible and hopefully now we can finish her out smoothly.
I will do the same today, heavy runoff, and continue for one more week with a normal feeding schedule before I flush.
Not sure yet on the flush but I know i'm not PHing this time, I have theory that some of the colorful fades are nutrient lockout caused by PH in the flushing period. I always did before and never got the very colorful finishes. It could be genetics, lighting, medium I don't know? but I want to try this idea.
My other theory is cold water.
I know many people flush with tap water really heavy the first go and then finish them off with filtered water only. Most taps are high in PH, and here the water is very cold which could be another factor? I'll need to be sure not to go too cold as to shock them.
I saw some mild stress on the plants but just in a somewhat droopy behavior until I flushed the medium.
So instead of waiting an hour and flushing like you would in DWC or something I watered as usual and let them sit in it for the whole 12 hour cycle.
Next day I hit them with a TON of solution mixed with full strength Jack's 321, Mammoth P, Honey, RAW Full-Up. @ ~1.6 e.c. 65-67f. (I've noticed watering colder, close to 68 keeps the temps in the tent way down too. Instead of 77-79 it's closer to 72-74 lights on.) Before our water rarely got below 70f. so refreshing to have to add hot water until I get a warmer.
I'm glad for this experience because I found a way that I will be feeding and flushing from now on. It's easy and seems to get the whole pot evenly, gets air pockets and draws a ton of oxygen down as is seen in small porous holes after the "Flash Flood"
I got a big 2 gallon wash bucket and flash flooded each 3 gallon pot with 2 gallons of solution twice for a total of 4 Gallons of solution through each 3 Gallon pot.
By the end of the 12 hour cycle all of the plants were incredibly erect and happy! Seems even more frost of that's possible and hopefully now we can finish her out smoothly.
I will do the same today, heavy runoff, and continue for one more week with a normal feeding schedule before I flush.
Not sure yet on the flush but I know i'm not PHing this time, I have theory that some of the colorful fades are nutrient lockout caused by PH in the flushing period. I always did before and never got the very colorful finishes. It could be genetics, lighting, medium I don't know? but I want to try this idea.
My other theory is cold water.
I know many people flush with tap water really heavy the first go and then finish them off with filtered water only. Most taps are high in PH, and here the water is very cold which could be another factor? I'll need to be sure not to go too cold as to shock them.
Hope you get your fade you're looking for, if you create a ph lockout then the plant will have to use stored carbs and convert stored starches into sugar.
OP - that sounded like a lot of work. I'm not sure, I never have any of those issues and I pretty much use compost with all sorts of crap it in and insects that eat the crap and worms too. Some amount of living organisms in the soil are necessary IMHO.
When my plants are using up stored nutrients I know everything is dialed in and working as planned (not by me).
LOS is bangin for sure.
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- #416
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much Pennywise, only ever had that one plant actually go purple from the inside out.
The Autoflower LSD-25, every single bud was a rich deep purple...but that one was so touchy to grow and appears to have P/metabolic issues...I have been on the hunt for a photo plant that will do that all the time like the LSD-25 Fastbuds strain no matter it's environment.
But thanks again, that was my thought and by doing so would in turn cause the color changes and certain stores are converted?
I do know that cold water works to a degree...damn puns, ugh.
The creation of carbs in plants also feeds into the question again of defoliation / pruning etc. I can see removing lateral fans from seedlings but after this go, and until I do a side by side with a clean run / clones I have to say I was wrong.
It *appears to yield much better without a defoliation / pruning at end of the flower stretch. (these girls take 4 weeks to stop now maybe I should have waited lol) Been just doing the 14-21 day leaf strip the last couple and while it appeared to recover and produce more uniformly on those plants the total yield looks to have been crippled...or I just found the right genetics now as i've grown way bigger buds of course in the past so I know they exist, but they just never impressed me, just not premium quality bigger buds like these...so many variables changed this round Penny gonna take a while to determine what worked and what didn't lol.
Anyway,
At any rate it is fun to experiment and I cannot wait to get the outdoor structure up for spring...autos outside all year for dabs and a couple of photos for the heck of it.
I trim small branches that will not produce big colas, I tend to lollipop from the bottom but I don't remove fans leaves if I can help it.
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- #418
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
Actually you are not wrong! LMAO
It used to be hell all around especially to flush!
I had saucers and was growing in a back bedroom southern 4 bedroom home so I had to cart the crap all over...
Not anymore, It's very easy now actually they are in a 4x4 flood tray right next to a utility sink by my side zipper door and it's angled to run to that corner so I fill 2 cat litter buckets of purified water (7 min each, i use my watch to time so I can measure nutes while mixing). I usually make enough for a day at a time and let it warm a bit downstairs but you get the idea.
It was just a really quick 4 -16oz cup fill each pot, come back 20 min, shop vac runoff.
Now, add a gallon to a bucket, flash flood, 20 min shop vac. done.
It takes about 15-30 minutes a day and is far more flexible to me than flood and drain at least.
Organics is more work upfront, less down the road, but I still have my opinions
and would never call either system better than the other depending which benchmark you choose I guess. Organics were almost always about the living organisms and my distaste for that I cannot see...hooch gone bad one time, MRSA nearly killed me in 2005, another serious food poisoning that year and just bad times with microorganisms...and to me it seemed like too much work trying to create an ecosystem rather than feeding a plant.
I like to think of it like this, in organics, we create a Rhizosphere that is conducive to plant growth by inoculating and feeding "the soil" (Collectively worms, microbes etc) with the right stuff so that what we feed them is essentially shat out as waste into food for the plant.
Why all that work? I mean we don't do it, but it seems redundant.
We can give the plant what it needs, we learned to do that in the 1950's.
There is something to be said for sustainability, our carbon footprint etc of course I will NEVER argue environmental concerns. Totally legit and the ONLY thing pulling me toward organics...well that and the cruise control once dialed in
OK and curiosity for terpene changes
Also while I got you BoBrown, Do you wash your buds? I am intrigued by the Doc Bud washing video and going to do it this go, but I have one glaring question. He says drip dry as usual...Others say run an active fan on them for X amount of time, then let dry as usual.
Any tips if so?
Thanks again!
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- #419
Phenoman
Well-Known Member
I knew it, thanks once again my friend.
I just started this action the last 2 grows as well for a couple of reasons.
First, I've noticed of course if they don't reach the top it's likely a TON of wasted energy because even the very top bud is barely keepable and the entire branch of larf was eating up energy better spent on the bigger branches.
Second, and more important for me for this run with the 2 unknown plasma cuts, is that i've noticed the sensitive bi-sexual cuts may produce male pollen sacs while stressed, but especially in the flower stretch as hormones are flying and the plants all confused and curious...
kidding. The thing is, nearly every male sac i've found has been on an underdeveloped, or smaller/skinnier branch like described above. Better to remove them and let the solid more stable branching use up the energy in this scenario so I too have started this practice.
Do you do this at a specific point in flower or predict the smaller ones in your lollipop, or do you lollipop in flower also? I do a little further cleanup at the bottom when I was defoliating. Now I stopped at ring 1 on the tomato cages and it really should be ring 2 with these strains next run...still a little larf.
I've been cleaning my plants up about the time they stop stretching, I think most clean up the plant around 21 days of 12/12.
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