farnorth
New Member
Re: dirtinmyears P-91, CFL 12-Pack, SCROG, DWC 1st Grow
Dime, that first picture is fucking crazy. sooooo many tops its insane..
Dime, that first picture is fucking crazy. sooooo many tops its insane..
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Yeah Krip I gatta say after reading that article you sent me on waiting to harvest until the perfect time and makeing sure to wait until the hairs are ALL orange and sucked in dude thats exactly what I needed to hear! As I may have mentioned before we harvested sandra at day 60 of flower and I had always felt and had wanted to keep her going atleast until day 70 but again...that was a co op grow and thats why I'll never do another co op grow again!!!
(1 bad captain is better than two good ones)
But yeah this time im definetly going to wait until she looks absolutely ready to harvest! and thats when I'll switch her to clear PH'd water and flush her for 5 days and then boom cut her! Today is day 49 so should be soon!
Hydro
Dime, that first picture is fucking crazy. sooooo many tops its insane..
Yeah...that's definately the way to do it! It's worthy to note that I also saw a video, which I think is posted somewhere on my journal, where Jorge Cervantes was judging some of the Cannabis Cup competition entries. He mentions that tricome color used to be a real good indication of quality, but that he's now seen too many cases where the quality was exceptional but trichs showed little amber. This is a good argument to start taking samples a couple weeks before you think she's ready, sample every few days, and when you think the quality has peaked, then chop.
what did you say that strain was btw?
dude i know what you mean when it comes to "trying to catch up" on peoples journals lol. Expecially urs and hemprockets! im usually pretty lost everytime i look at them but it doesn't stop me from postin haha.
cool factoid!: at the clinics around where I live they keep these like...glass sugar dispensars with holes on the top full of whole pepper beans. Pepper as in the pepper you'd grind up on your salad. But yeah what your suppose to do is take a deep sniff of the pepper then smell the buds, i guess it helps you "clear or get" a scent. Basically helps you smell herb somehow err...helps you smell the difference between herb or something cuz they suggest after every fat wiff you take you should take another fat wiff of the whole bean pepper in that jar haha.
crazy.
hydro
You can also do that with coffee beans. Take a sniff of a jar of coffee beans between smelling different strains of cannabis.
Thanks for the compliment Giants!
Mr Krip, thanks again! I was wondering about the feeding and PPMs and you pretty much answered before I even asked do I need a little tinfoil hat you're reading my mind now
Last feeding I was at 1030 PPMs, do you think it would be a good idea to stay there another week, then start dropping them down? I keep thinking I should have been closer to 11-1200 PPMs a week ago but I was too nervous about burning the crap out of them.
Maybe i could just feed them the same as last time for the next feeding(week 5), but bumping up the Budswel 10ml for the last time(30ml each) .Then the following week (week 6) drop down the GH by 2.5ml, the Budswel in half and start the Overdrive.
Man I sound like a noob eh? Sorry for the long question, I just want to keep these girls at the best level I can (plus Im a little baked ).
A great big and a thank you in advance!
Your Ladies look awesome, very healthy and congrats on the freebies my friend.
Your plants do look good,really nice job...
MV...
DIME, now you're getting into questions where you're probably better reading the plant than following my guesses, but I would think you'd be fine either staying at the same PPM's, or increasing to somewhere between 1100-1200 assuming the 1030 PPM didn't burn them at all.
If she handled the 1030 PPM's OK, I can't imagine a 10% increase in PPM's will hurth them at this point. On the other hand, the plant is only gonna uptake as much nutes as she wants, so anything more you put in there is either gonna get wasted or risk burning the plant. So, I'm not sure the extra 10% PPMs will really help, either.
If it were me, I'd probably increase the PPM's, which I have been doing every res change.
From AN's website
If you are using Overdrive as part of our Bigger Yields System, you have no need to be concerned about pH and PPM. Just use Overdrive as directed- the System is configured to balance all formulas together to be at the ideal absorbability and strength. If you are using Overdrive without using the System, it can increase PPM by as much as 200 PPM, and you would need to monitor your nutrient strength accordingly.
...They discovered a never-before-used combination of vitamins, organic materials, nutrients and other ingredients that make Overdrive a powerhouse harvest-boosting formula used by thousands of growers worldwide.
For example, Overdrive contains special forms of folic acid that work on a genetic level to reprogram blooming plants so they produce larger flowers late in bloom phase.
Overdrive also contains plant-friendly forms of Vitamin C. These special vitamins increase photosynthesis efficiency and makes plants better able to deal with heat, high intensity lighting and stress.
All of Overdrive's ingredients are matched so they work together to give your plants exactly what they need for late-season bloom building.
Chelates are useful for micronutrients applied to alkaline soils. Iron, manganese,
zinc and copper react with the ions found at high pH to form insoluble
substances. As a result, the nutrients are made unavailable to plants. The organic
coating in the chelate prevents these reactions from occurring in the soil. The
plant roots take up the chelated nutrient and the chelate releases the nutrient
within the plant.
Chelated nutrients are also useful for foliar application. Plant leaves have a
waxy coating that prevents them from drying. The wax repels water and
inorganic substances making it difficult for inorganic nutrients to penetrate into
the leaf. However, organic molecules can penetrate the wax.
The organic coating around the chelated nutrient allows it to penetrate
through the wax into the leaf. Once in the leaf, the chelate releases the
nutrient so that it can be used by the plant.
The bond between the organic chemical and the inorganic nutrient must be
strong enough to protect the nutrient, but must be weak enough to release the
nutrient once it gets into the plant. Also, the chelating agent must not be
harmful to plants.
Not all nutrients can be chelated. Iron, zinc, copper, manganese, calcium and
magnesium can be chelated, the other nutrients cannot.
Several organic substances (chelating agents) are used to produce chelates.
EDTA is the most common synthetic chelating agent and is used for both soil
and foliar applied nutrients. DTPA is used mainly for chelates applied to alkaline
soils. It is more effective than EDTA but is usually more expensive. Iron chelates
made with HEDTA and EDDHA are the most effective iron fertilizers on high
pH soils but are also the most expensive.