Harley001
New Member
I've researched the net for organic soil recipes and peat moos is used as a base to which other things are added I have not grown any cannabis in peat yet, but have grown a variety bedding plants with great success.
New City Grower 2.0
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GardenFaerie
New Member
I concur with what others are saying, but mostly with Harley. I've grown everything in just peat, but it does not nourish the plant forever. That said, since pot is an annual and is a fast product you can get away with it. I think a better way is to add compost, but if you can't you can't. I like live soils as that is what nourishes the plant. If there is no life in the soil the nutrients are not as available in the form they require. No microbes to break it all down. But I still think you can get away with it.
"PEAT MOSS OR COMPOST?
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont
Both peat moss and compost are common soil amendments. When added to soils, each will improve them in different ways. Here are a dozen differences to consider when choosing which to obtain and add to your gardens.
Peat moss may be more expensive, especially if you have a local source of compost, buy in bulk, or better yet make your own. Generally the peat moss we buy is harvested in Canada, so must be shipped from there, adding to the cost.
Peat moss has few if any nutrients, while compost is much better. However, compost is not fertilizer. Compared to fertilizer it is low in nutrients. The nutritional value of compost often comes from its effect on soils and the soil microorganisms. Peat moss helps the soil hold nutrients by increasing what is called the CEC or "cation exchange capacity."
Peat moss has a low pH, so if you use much, lime should be added as well. Plants that do well in acidic soils, termed "ericaceous" such as blueberries and rhododendrons, benefit from peat moss. Compost usually has a neutral (pH 7) or slightly alkaline soil reaction.
Peat moss doesn't compact, so can last for years in soils, providing good aeration and water holding. Composts often compact, so should be added yearly. Since composts lose their nutritional value over time as well, yearly replenishment helps this factor too.
Both peat moss and composts hold water, although peat moss tends to be better. This trait is important in sandy or rocky soils that tend to dry out quickly.
Peat moss is hard to wet initially, and to re-wet once it dries out. Composts vary, depending on source, on how easy they are to re-wet. This trait seems contradictory, since once wet these materials hold water well, releasing it to roots over time. If peat moss gets too dry, moisten it in a bag overnight. Using a couple drops of detergent in the water may help, acting as a "surfactant". Warm water helps, as it is absorbed quicker than cold water.
Peat moss has a uniform composition. Composts often have variable composition, especially among sources. This is an important consideration when buying composts, which you often either have to learn on your own or from others who have used a product. Composts also may contain contaminants, depending on what was added.
Peat moss contains few microorganisms. Composts are rich in microorganisms. Most of these are beneficial, improving soils in many ways, from aeration to nutrition.
Peat moss contains no weed seeds. Good compost "shouldn't" contain weed seeds if it has been produced properly-- at high enough temperatures in the compost pile to kill weed seeds, covered to prevent seeds from blowing in, and not made from weedy plants. If you don't know a particular source of compost, or have any recommendations on it, put some in a pot. Water and wait a couple weeks to see if any weeds germinate. There is nothing worse than spreading weedy compost over a clean lawn or garden, ending up with a lifetime of weed seeds and weeding.
Peat moss has no disease suppressing qualities, while compost (microorganisms) may suppress some disease-causing pathogens.
Peat moss is a natural resources, obtained by "mining". This is usually surface harvesting. Unlike the past, most of this is done now after environmental impact analysis, and in a renewal and sustainable manner. Composts, of course, use recycled organic matter for the most part.
Finally, peat moss isn't really used as a mulch, while composts are often used as a mulch side-dressed around plants. Unless used thickly, however, composts wont suppress many perennial weeds. If peat moss is used as a mulch, it actually may dry out soils by absorbing water from them. Or, when dry, it may blow off the surface.
A solution to these differences between peat moss and compost is to use both, getting the benefits of each. Some incorporate peat moss and compost when planting, then topdress perennial plants with compost in subsequent years. Peat moss reduces the tendency of some compost to compact, and may extend the life of compost several fold.
There are several other organic materials you may consider adding to gardens or landscapes for various purposes. These include mulches such as bark or straw, (weed free, not hay), green manures or cover crops, manures, and paper."
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont
Both peat moss and compost are common soil amendments. When added to soils, each will improve them in different ways. Here are a dozen differences to consider when choosing which to obtain and add to your gardens.
Peat moss may be more expensive, especially if you have a local source of compost, buy in bulk, or better yet make your own. Generally the peat moss we buy is harvested in Canada, so must be shipped from there, adding to the cost.
Peat moss has few if any nutrients, while compost is much better. However, compost is not fertilizer. Compared to fertilizer it is low in nutrients. The nutritional value of compost often comes from its effect on soils and the soil microorganisms. Peat moss helps the soil hold nutrients by increasing what is called the CEC or "cation exchange capacity."
Peat moss has a low pH, so if you use much, lime should be added as well. Plants that do well in acidic soils, termed "ericaceous" such as blueberries and rhododendrons, benefit from peat moss. Compost usually has a neutral (pH 7) or slightly alkaline soil reaction.
Peat moss doesn't compact, so can last for years in soils, providing good aeration and water holding. Composts often compact, so should be added yearly. Since composts lose their nutritional value over time as well, yearly replenishment helps this factor too.
Both peat moss and composts hold water, although peat moss tends to be better. This trait is important in sandy or rocky soils that tend to dry out quickly.
Peat moss is hard to wet initially, and to re-wet once it dries out. Composts vary, depending on source, on how easy they are to re-wet. This trait seems contradictory, since once wet these materials hold water well, releasing it to roots over time. If peat moss gets too dry, moisten it in a bag overnight. Using a couple drops of detergent in the water may help, acting as a "surfactant". Warm water helps, as it is absorbed quicker than cold water.
Peat moss has a uniform composition. Composts often have variable composition, especially among sources. This is an important consideration when buying composts, which you often either have to learn on your own or from others who have used a product. Composts also may contain contaminants, depending on what was added.
Peat moss contains few microorganisms. Composts are rich in microorganisms. Most of these are beneficial, improving soils in many ways, from aeration to nutrition.
Peat moss contains no weed seeds. Good compost "shouldn't" contain weed seeds if it has been produced properly-- at high enough temperatures in the compost pile to kill weed seeds, covered to prevent seeds from blowing in, and not made from weedy plants. If you don't know a particular source of compost, or have any recommendations on it, put some in a pot. Water and wait a couple weeks to see if any weeds germinate. There is nothing worse than spreading weedy compost over a clean lawn or garden, ending up with a lifetime of weed seeds and weeding.
Peat moss has no disease suppressing qualities, while compost (microorganisms) may suppress some disease-causing pathogens.
Peat moss is a natural resources, obtained by "mining". This is usually surface harvesting. Unlike the past, most of this is done now after environmental impact analysis, and in a renewal and sustainable manner. Composts, of course, use recycled organic matter for the most part.
Finally, peat moss isn't really used as a mulch, while composts are often used as a mulch side-dressed around plants. Unless used thickly, however, composts wont suppress many perennial weeds. If peat moss is used as a mulch, it actually may dry out soils by absorbing water from them. Or, when dry, it may blow off the surface.
A solution to these differences between peat moss and compost is to use both, getting the benefits of each. Some incorporate peat moss and compost when planting, then topdress perennial plants with compost in subsequent years. Peat moss reduces the tendency of some compost to compact, and may extend the life of compost several fold.
There are several other organic materials you may consider adding to gardens or landscapes for various purposes. These include mulches such as bark or straw, (weed free, not hay), green manures or cover crops, manures, and paper."
- Thread starter
- #2,004
Thanxx so much guys & gals. I'll take all of your thoughts and ideas into consideration & let you know what type of decision I make. Any other suggestions are still welcomed. It doesn't have to include peat-moss. I'm trying to get a cheap medium without all the hoopla. I want to feed my babies when & what I want to feed them, not what the manufacturers of most of these soils have already decided for me.
HOT OFF THE PRESS!!! EXTRA, EXTRA, READ ALL ABOUT IT!!!
KERALA X SKUNK (Regular) Day 1
Previously:
This Morning:
HOT OFF THE PRESS!!! EXTRA, EXTRA, READ ALL ABOUT IT!!!
KERALA X SKUNK (Regular) Day 1
Previously:
This Morning:
Harley001
New Member
What a cute little baby 
GardenFaerie
New Member
In keeping with this discussion, I love that you want to make your own soil. I know there are people sponsoring this website so I will refrain from my thoughts on these expensive soils, but if you want to grow in peat based mix, you can. It will be fine. I did find a website I think you may want to look at, but it is not canna related. You do have a place in the city called The Grow Room dedicated to canna and hydro, but sells soils and other stuff. You can probably get much better prices online. If there is a Home Depot near you anywhere, they sell the big bales of ProMix for about 33 dollars and that is an amazing price for mix with mycorrhizae. They don't have it at my Home Depot, but yours may sell it. I would drive 50 miles to get a few bales of that.
GardenFaerie
New Member
I forgot to ask, what is the small leaf in with the seed?
$33? flippety-flop that. I pay $12 for 2 cu ft of good soil called gardeners gold. a 2 cu ft bag of peat moss is only $7-10.
nice sprouts, still waiting for my "experiment" to pop up
some other good soils are hampton estate's potting soil and scott's premium potting soil/hyponex by scotts.
I used to use espoma's potting mix until I realized I was getting ripped off.
nice sprouts, still waiting for my "experiment" to pop up
some other good soils are hampton estate's potting soil and scott's premium potting soil/hyponex by scotts.
I used to use espoma's potting mix until I realized I was getting ripped off.
- Thread starter
- #2,010
A Weeping Willow leaf. There's a few floating around in my Willow Water. It got poured into the seed dish when I filled it. I figured why not just leave it there.
Keep it clean B.$33? flux that. I pay $12 for 2 cu ft of good soil called gardeners gold. a 2 cu ft bag of peat moss is only $7-10.
nice sprouts, still waiting for my "experiment" to pop up
some other good soils are hampton estates potting soil and scotts premium potting soil/hyponex by scotts.
Refresh my memory, I'm not sure of the experiment you speak of. I've tried so many new ideas lately it gets confusing.
How many cubic ft is a bale?
GardenFaerie
New Member
$33? flippety-flop that. I pay $12 for 2 cu ft of good soil called gardeners gold. a 2 cu ft bag of peat moss is only $7-10.
nice sprouts, still waiting for my "experiment" to pop up
some other good soils are hampton estates potting soil and scotts premium potting soil/hyponex by scotts.
I don't think Reggie likes that language in his journal, but I reposted it to go with my reply. Maybe it can be edited...
The only reason it is worth it to me would be that it is a pro mix with perlite and mycorrhizae. The specific mycorrhizae for growing cannabis. Other than that, I agree with you b.real. Do the mixes you mention have fertilizer in them, because I can't find any potting mix anywhere which does not automatically "feed" your plants for 3-6 months or more...which is BS, by the way!
The bale I'm talking about is compressed and will grow many plants in 5 gallon containers.
But I definitely agree that it is ridiculously expensive.
David Bowman
New Member
I paid ~$10/cu. ft. for the generic premix at my local garden center.
I hear ya. no disrespect it's just that I was being ripped off when I first started growing cause I was paying a lot for espoma's mix, but now I realize I don't have to. the soil I get looks like this.
btw myco is found outdoors and will make its way to your soil. myco supplements are also relatively cheap.
I don't think a bale is a measurement, it just mean it's compressed.
my experiment is attempting to grow and flower a blackout kush plant (ogk x g13) by my window. unfortunately my window faces the front of the house, and the sun is always on the back, but let's see what happens.
GardenFaerie
New Member
In this case, it is a compressed bale which measures 3.8 cubic feet which expands when wet also when fluffed up after you break it down by hand. Mycorrhizae is found outside, everywhere, but not the specific strain cannabis uses most effectively, Glomus intraradices. At least that's what the literature says, but I am a firm believer in experimentation and trial.
if you compost your cannabis roots your new mix will be full of beneficial colonies 
I used to throw my roots in my compost bin (when I had one), now I just throw them under my deck lol.
I used to throw my roots in my compost bin (when I had one), now I just throw them under my deck lol.
Just to clarify a small semantic point
1 bale [US] is equal to 217.7243376 kilograms
Convert bale [US] to kilogram - Conversion of Measurement Units
1 bale [US] is equal to 217.7243376 kilograms
Convert bale [US] to kilogram - Conversion of Measurement Units
scottish
New Member
sorry gf but are you sure on this? Marijuana is infact perenial its just we choose to give them only one flowering?look at laverne?
marijuana is primarily an annual plant though some plants can live a long time
GardenFaerie
New Member
The definition of an annual is any plant which comes from a seed, sprouts, flowers, sets seed and dies in nature. In nature Cannabis sativa or C. indica are annuals. That, is a fact.
We can manipulate plants, of course. People do that in their gardens all the time by growing plants which thrive in the outer limits of their agricultural cold hardiness zone aka USDA Cold Hardiness Zone Map.
Yes, it's definitely an annual by the definition in botany.
We can manipulate plants, of course. People do that in their gardens all the time by growing plants which thrive in the outer limits of their agricultural cold hardiness zone aka USDA Cold Hardiness Zone Map.
Yes, it's definitely an annual by the definition in botany.
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