I thought that maybe someone was going to discuss watering a bit differently and since I talk on this so often, I was going to give others a chance.
I wrote a little thing on watering that gets passed around a lot, and in there I make fun of what I call knuckle waterers. Mind, I am not making fun of you, for this is a common practice, outside, in the vegetable garden,and the finger in the ground method works well for plants who keep their roots near or along the surface... the problem is that we are growing weeds.
Weeds are different than other plants. They are greedy and more aggressive. They have learned to send their roots deep so that they can access water better than the plants around them. They are designed to withstand drought and adversity and the deep roots allow them to do that. With our weeds, the main roots, the tap and feeder roots, all go deep, seeking water. The bottom of the container and the core of the rootball is where it is all happening, where the big party is... not at the top where your finger is.
So here is your finger, deep... maybe if you have long fingers, 4" into the soil. It may be dry as the sahara up there, and still be quite wet down at the bottom. Why is it at the bottom and not at the top? Gravity. When you saturate the soil, you form what is called a water table, a lake if you will, that rises and falls inside that container. As the plant uses the water, this water table falls, and the diaphragm formed by the surface of the water table forms a suction that pulls oxygen down through the soil. The pH also changes locally as the soil once saturated dries out, and this pH drift allows the salt bonds of the nutrients to break apart to feed the plants.
This wet/dry cycle is critical in a soil container grow, and with a deep rooted weed, we must allow the soil to dry out all the way to the bottom. The proper time to water a weed in soil is when the water table has dropped down to the last inch of the container and 95% of the water is gone. In the core of the root ball and at the bottom and sides and inbetween the roots themselves, it never really dries out because of capillary action, and if it ever did start to get really dry, your plant would wilt to let you know. At this proper point of watering your container will feel as light as a feather... or at least as light as a similar container filled with fresh dry soil. You will wonder how it is that your plant could possibly be happy in a container that dry.
Now when you water, with a truly dry container, it will take a lot more water. Take your time. Your goal is to saturate the soil again, and move that water table all the way back up to the top. This is why dunking was suggested, it is easy to get the correct amount of water that way... saturated. It can be done watering from the top too... it just takes time. Water slowly, small amounts at a time, moving from plant to plant. Watering is an art, and to do it right takes time to allow the water to soak in and saturate the soil.
If you measure how much water your plant takes each time, you will find that as the root system gets stronger, the plant actually starts using more water each time. If you water at sunrise each time, you will also find that your plants can uptake an appreciable amount of water right during the time that you are watering... its all in the timing. You will also find that each time you successfully complete a full wet/dry cycle in your container, your roots grow... and the time between waterings steadily decreases until you reach the equilibrium point where the roots have stopped growing and the plant accepts the container as its final size.