My First Hydro Setup

higherthehigh said:
Today is the day to order some more bits and pieces and I'm going to try attempting to create some scrog screens, I will be getting my new tent around the 25th next month but I will try and get it sooner the better.

One thing I have noticed on one of them is on the 2nd node up is only one side has stem development which I have never seen before so when I do start lst training I know which way to bend this plant.

Overall great growth everyday with rapid root development!

Northern Lights x Big Bud

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Only one stem to this node.

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Hey man plants r looking great and the roots r still growing quickly. The roots look cleaner today and glad to hear your getting some res treatment soon. As far as training it’s up to you and is definitely a learning curve on filling a scrog. I top at about the the 6 th node then just keep bending them trough veg with LST.after you put them into flower keep bending fast and hard through the stretch weeks filling in the scrog. Then I just coast to harvest adding a yo yo here and there for support of any larger nugs. Keep in mind your first scrog set up may and probably will change after you do a run and tweak your setup for your liking. My scrog is at 34 inches and yours will have to be set by a determined height for your space. This is the height you will have to do a few runs to find out what works best for you. If your scrog is completely full at the time of flip you may need another to control the first few weeks of stretch in flower. My plants don’t see a scrog until flower but I have almost 8 feet of head room between my light and floor. You will definitely learn more about scroging by doing it then people could ever tell you as it’s a hands on learning curve. Anyways shits looking and growing good keep doing what your doing as it’s working well.
 
Just spotted this on a few of the leaves it looks to me like maybe a calcium deficiency so I added 5ml of Plant Magic Magne Cal+, ph was 6.3-6.5 when I first checked so I have adjusted both back to 5.7 and the ppm is now at around 400-425.

Temps in the res is a little warm so I'm going to pop out and grab some of that bubble wrap insulation and wrap the reservoirs as 23.2c is a little high.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud

 
So when the leaves are pointing to the sky it means there happy right?

Since feeding them the cal mag they have perked up but the markings on leaves look like they may still be happening so I will keep an eye on them over the next few hours closely.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


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higherthehigh said:
So when the leaves are pointing to the sky it means there happy right?

Since feeding them the cal mag they have perked up but the markings on leaves look like they may still be happening so I will keep an eye on them over the next few hours closely.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

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Hey how goes the battle? R you using tap water or RO water? You may have mentioned this before but I’m a stoner and forgot lol. You may want to bump your ppm a little if you can. I don’t know what your nutrient mixes out at. Without knowing what ppm scale you use it’s hard to help accurately with numbers. This is what I mean.
A60DA4C6-7660-4AC1-85A8-8AB54929DB22.jpeg

A60DA4C6-7660-4AC1-85A8-8AB54929DB22.jpeg

I use EC as it’s used more globally and can only be read 1 way.
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At that age I would want to be Just under half strength looking to be at half very soon. Cal deficiency usually shows looking rusty colour a little shot of cal/mag is never a bad thing. Keep in mind you can never fix damage only stop it so it won’t disappear but it should never get worse. Those spots could also be the ph swings and lack of stability over the last week or so. Plants love stability and your ladies have been transplanted, moved around with a few big changes and the ph hitting 6.5 could be a result of those spots. It’s all good just keep the ph in check the best you can (don’t be a slave to it lol)and try to maintain the res temps the best you can keeping the temp stable and as low as Possible. Your ph can be anywhere between 5.5 and 5.9 no problem and the plants will grow fine for now at this stage of growth.
 
I have them at 5.7ph and 400ppm and it's still getting worse I can't seem to understand why it's getting worse, i have added cal mag to it, water level is a good 2" away from the net pot, around 170lpm of air.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

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higherthehigh said:
I have them at 5.7ph and 400ppm and it's still getting worse I can't seem to understand why it's getting worse, i have added cal mag to it, water level is a good 2" away from the net pot, around 170lpm of air.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

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Hey man what does you nutrient mix out at. What is high and low end of manufactures recommendations.??My bottled water is 290 ppm
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Your feeding 400 ppm (0.8ec) assuming that you r using ppm(TDS) you could try bumping it a bit as your only feeding a little heavier the bottled water. If you can let me know what ppm scale you use I will convert everything to that to help me understand how you r feeding them. If you don’t know it’s all good too just try to bump the nutrient to half strength of the manufacturer recommended amount to c if they r hungry. If you’re ppm is falling and your ph is rising then your plant is hungry and you need to bump up your nutrient %. Is your ppm falling and ph rising??All this information is on the sheet above I posted and you need to keep that close as it will tell you what your plants want and need at any moment in a nutshell.
 
Also since we’re talking nutrient this chart shows dissolved oxygen (D/O)at different temps in the res.
A489282F-3915-40D9-83C4-E52FAAFD4B14.jpeg

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You can c that it falls off very quickly after 70f and this will hinder you plants ability to pick up nutrient efficiently. Long and short cooler res temps = faster growth because plants love D/O and a more efficient plant being able to properly use the all the nutrient available. Keep in mind a oxy pot is based around D/O and every bit helps. I have no idea about the numbers you post for air as I never researched it but if your res temps r too warm then you can c on the chart it will be a hard fight. D/O Res temp and nutrient availably all go hand and hand and work together. Just something to think about going forward in your hydro journey.
 
I will have to buy something to keep the pots cool then like I said that silver lined bubble wrap, I ordered some liquid oxygen and h and g, got over charged and still never got it next day delivery which is a big disappointment.

I have 3 weeks 1 day left of veg till I must flip so I must get this problem under control, I'm going to do like what you said once before and only use the standard grow nutes from this pack along with h&g and liquid oxygen.

So my tap water is between 80-100ppm from the tap, I leave it for 1-2 days to let chlorine evaporate then I usually add cal mag totalling the ppm to 150-200ppm then add the micro and grow, the cal mag has a small amount of N in so it covers both sides.

I have seen a TekcoPlus 6 in 1 meter, so ppm, ec, ph, ect of Amazon for half the price of the Blue Lab so I'm wondering if anyone has heard of them?
 
So here they are today, both around 5" - 12cm tall, red temps up again at 23.1c so I have moved the air pumps outside the tent in case it's pulling in hot air.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

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Northern Lights x Big Bud

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Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud

 
higherthehigh said:
I will have to buy something to keep the pots cool then like I said that silver lined bubble wrap, I ordered some liquid oxygen and h and g, got over charged and still never got it next day delivery which is a big disappointment.

I have 3 weeks 1 day left of veg till I must flip so I must get this problem under control, I'm going to do like what you said once before and only use the standard grow nutes from this pack along with h&g and liquid oxygen.

So my tap water is between 80-100ppm from the tap, I leave it for 1-2 days to let chlorine evaporate then I usually add cal mag totalling the ppm to 150-200ppm then add the micro and grow, the cal mag has a small amount of N in so it covers both sides.

I have seen a TekcoPlus 6 in 1 meter, so ppm, ec, ph, ect of Amazon for half the price of the Blue Lab so I'm wondering if anyone has heard of them?
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Hey man I hope all is good. No pics of the little ladies??How t they?? It’s good to know you r running tap water because there is probably some cal in there as well. When running RO water if your not mixing right I can get cal deficiency in a day lol.Tap water has a little buffer to it. With your Cal/mag can you foliar spray with it. This is what I mean.
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320E1B6E-AD13-4C7C-9406-CD536E0E50FB.jpeg

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I have 2 kinds I can only spray the one on the Right side. The one on the left can not be spayed only mixed into nutrient. The one on the right can be sprayed or mixed. WARNING if it dose not mention foliar spray then don’t use it for spraying. I had to learn this the hard way at a very heavy cost Lmao live and learn. However if it does you could mix it up at the rate given for spraying and give them a light mist with the lights off until they dry. Foliar spraying works well for curving deficiencies. About the meter I myself have never heard of it so I can’t comment on it. I can say you will need one to learn and after you do some runs and figure everything out you will hardly ever use a ppm meter lol. (You will always need a ph meter)Either way as a grower you will always need one here and there. Keep in mind you get what you pay for with this kind of equipment. You my friend need a ppm/ec/cf meter to go hand and hand with that chart as it will tell you what your plants r doing in that moment. Just get the the things you need slowly so it doesn’t get to expensive and keep in mind you will learn more growing hydro then you could ever imagine. Unfortunately lessons cost money good ones cost lots.it all makes you better at your craft even the failures. When you say liquid oxygen is that H2O2 or something else??
 
higherthehigh said:
So here they are today, both around 5" - 12cm tall, red temps up again at 23.1c so I have moved the air pumps outside the tent in case it's pulling in hot air.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


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bluenoserjoe said:
Your water temps are still up there. I would say that would have been the biggest enviromental factor for me last grow. Tried using ice which worked well but to much work involved . This year I have attached a diy fan to help chill my 20 liter res.

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Love it nicely done. Ya res temps r a bitch and play such an important role in the system.
 
higherthehigh said:
So here they are today, both around 5" - 12cm tall, red temps up again at 23.1c so I have moved the air pumps outside the tent in case it's pulling in hot air.

Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

Northern Lights x Big Bud


Northern Lights x Big Bud

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There’s the ladies and man they r growing good. You have got the environment above the lids looking great and if you can pull some cooler air through the air pump as you said you have moved it maybe temps will drop a bit. The one thing when you get your meters watch closely the relationship between ph and ppm. Check this daily and if could post the numbers we can c how your plant r feeding. Here is another chart for future reference it is the same as the one above but different layout.
8EB011DB-D956-40E0-8368-69B321AF178F.jpeg

8EB011DB-D956-40E0-8368-69B321AF178F.jpeg

You want to b as close to the centre line as possible.
Keeping you res balanced is key. Stability will give max yields.
 
So I have just changed the res on both pots, little bit of build up of cheap on the base of each pot as I lifted the plants out, still no notes delivered which is annoying.

So tap water in was 80ppm, cal mag up to 220-250ppm reason for it being high is as it runs a little N in, then micro and grow up to 400-450ppm, res temps are now 15c at 6.0PH and I'm going g to go get some of this insulation roll this afternoon.

I do have some Budwiser which has a high % of calcium in I can use a as a foliar spray but with 140-170ppm of calcium magnesium now should make a difference in hoping.

I have also raised the res to 1" below each pot to help more roots come down .

To your last post on the chart I can say as if been recording them off line, my ph rises by 0.15 ever day so today it's at 6.00 and on Tuesday it will be 6.50 (roughly) then using around 50-150ppm of nutrients.

I'm no good with those charts as I struggle with certain things which is rather not say so you will have to be my converter lol.
 
higherthehigh said:
So I have just changed the res on both pots, little bit of build up of cheap on the base of each pot as I lifted the plants out, still no notes delivered which is annoying.

So tap water in was 80ppm, cal mag up to 220-250ppm reason for it being high is as it runs a little N in, then micro and grow up to 400-450ppm, res temps are now 15c at 6.0PH and I'm going g to go get some of this insulation roll this afternoon.

I do have some Budwiser which has a high % of calcium in I can use a as a foliar spray but with 140-170ppm of calcium magnesium now should make a difference in hoping.

I have also raised the res to 1" below each pot to help more roots come down .

To your last post on the chart I can say as if been recording them off line, my ph rises by 0.15 ever day so today it's at 6.00 and on Tuesday it will be 6.50 (roughly) then using around 50-150ppm of nutrients.

I'm no good with those charts as I struggle with certain things which is rather not say so you will have to be my converter lol.
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So I’m reading this right 2 paragraphs above your ph is 6 and by Tuesday it will rise and your nutrient ppm will drop 50 to 150 ppm. This is key information as it tells you that the plant r hungry and you should bump your nutrient up. This could be why those spots r showing up. Since you did with the last res change and added some cal/mag let them settle for a few days and see how the new growth looks. You r trying to find balance here and when you get it so the ppm is static and the ph doesn’t swing to much your feeding the plant at the correct rate. Just keep noting what the ppm and ph r doing as it tells a lot. It all sounds like a lot now but it will become second nature and very simple as it all comes together. I still learn every day as I have only been growing hydro for a year and a half.
 

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