TaylorMade420
Well-Known Member
next grow im gonna do 2 aqua farms and im gonna be expecting 30 - 40 oz from 2 plants lol about 8 weeks veg then flower so roughly 4 month all in
Mono's 600 Watt HPS Soil Grow 2013
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TaylorMade420
Well-Known Member
the young one looks fine btw ive got a sensi star, ice cream, white widow and royal purple kush that all look the same as yours
I think I have come to a conclusion on what I will do with the clones. I have a couple of 20 liter pots, so I think i am going to veg the strongest one for as long as possible. Make it as big and bushy as possible and see how much I can yield from a single plant
Sound like a good plan?
Sounds good, the only thing better would be a 40 litre pot!
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- #144
Glad to hear the young'n is doing all right. 30-40 oz from two plants, that's a treat! What size light you going to use for that?
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- #145
You think a larger pot would make a difference? Can buy a larger one, or use an old 60 liter rain barrel... Not too wide but reeeeaaaaaaly deep
TaylorMade420
Well-Known Member
use a 600w hps per aqua farm, gonna get the other 600 put in the groom soon once the seedlings are a bit bigger
Is this plant going outside? What are your max seasonal temps, and duration? Do you have adequate space and seccurity for a plant 10-14 feet tall? Do you wanna invest the money in soil and nutes, enough nutes to feed a giant?
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- #148
Is this plant going outside? What are your max seasonal temps, and duration? Do you have adequate space and seccurity for a plant 10-14 feet tall? Do you wanna invest the money in soil and nutes, enough nutes to feed a giant?
Can't really do a decent outdoor grow here, could only go outside after April and generally getting first frost again by mid September, only really auto's work. Was going to veg her indoors and place here in the flowering tent even if she has to go in alone. Tent is 1.2m/1.2m/2m don't suppose that would hold a giant?
i have been experimenting with making my own compost, although it's stored outside so no doubt full of pests lol.
May be best just to keep them small
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- #149
Okay, so what started out as a few fungus gnats on a tomato plant are now becoming a total pain.
Would a layer of sand or fine grit in the base of a pot and on the top slow them up at all?
Would a layer of sand or fine grit in the base of a pot and on the top slow them up at all?
Can't really do a decent outdoor grow here, could only go outside after April and generally getting first frost again by mid September, only really auto's work. Was going to veg her indoors and place here in the flowering tent even if she has to go in alone. Tent is 1.2m/1.2m/2m don't suppose that would hold a giant?
i have been experimenting with making my own compost, although it's stored outside so no doubt full of pests lol.
May be best just to keep them small
Maybe for now. What has to happen with home made compost that's going to come inside is it needs to be sterilized with heat. Generally, the material is composted completely, processed to the desired consistency, and basically heated to a temperature that will kill anything living in it, cool down, and innoculate with all the beneficial organisms you desire. I would try to get it tested, then use it.
Dang it! They say the sand on top works, I use pyrethrum based products, and this is the longest I've been without em (g-nats). You need to get after em quick, once they start multiplying....well.
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- #152
Is there any particular product you would recommend?
I had them a bit during my last grow, didn't seem to do much damage, but I have a feeling the castings left by the larvae have ruined the drainage in my smallest plant resulting in slower than normal growth.
What they do is damage the root system, causing them to be unable to function properly, the symptoms would be; signs of overwatering and nutrient deficiencies. I have used sns 204 and 209 in conjunction with favorable results. Do they have walmart in scotland?, or a nursery? A pyrethrum based product designed for this purpose will work also, I say this, because if you order the sns you may have an infestation by the time it gets there. I would try to do something quickly, beneficial nematodes will get em too, they are expensive, and you gotta make sure theyre not dead when you buy em. They come inoculated into a spnoge like foam, the whole mess should be quite white, with no signs of discoloration, when you open the package to prepare them for application they should NOT STINK!
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- #154
They have now got into my little grow tent also, so in amongst the seedlings and clones. We have walmart in Scotland but it's called ASDA lol. Is there anything I could use that one would find around the house.?
They say a solution of h2o2 works, but I would get to asda to the garden dept, and get a pyrethrum based product, and get it applied so it starts working. I use a product called worry free, I mix it as directed and use it as a drench......it kills em.....then if you need any followup, keep a spray bottle of it for the wounded ones...LOL. It wont hurt your plants AT ALL, even if you get it on em, I just rinse em a coupla days later with water in a spray bottle.
TaylorMade420
Well-Known Member
cover the top of the soil with perlite or sand and let the soil dry out completely, they thrive in a moist enviroment
TaylorMade420
Well-Known Member
Description
Fungus gnats (family Sciaridae) are found in and around damp areas such as wet floors or benches with decaying vegetable matter, algae, and/or fungi present. Adult female fungus gnats lay eggs in soil or growing media. The eggs hatch into larvae that feed on plant roots. As their name suggests, the wings of adult dark-winged fungus gnats appear light to dark gray.
Unlike houseflies or other kinds of flying insects, adult fungus gnats tend to remain near plants (in indoor situations) at soil level and can be found resting on leaf litter and foliage. Larvae dwell in the soil until they pupate; they are legless and have transparent bodies with distinctly black head capsules. Pupae are difficult to detect without magnification, but are stouter and more brown than larvae.
Life Cycle
Female adult thrips deposit oval eggs under the soil surface. The following are the life stages and their approximate duration*:
1. Egg (hatch in 4-6 days)
2. Larva - four instars (10-14 days)
3. Pupa (5-7 days)
4. Adult (lives about 7 days)*
*Adult females can lay up to 1000 eggs in a lifetime!
Damage
Fungus gnat larvae feed on various parts of plant roots and generally diminish plant health. Plants infested with fungus gnat larvae can show signs of stunted growth. Larval feeding can also spread plant pathogens and/or make plants more susceptible to disease. Although adult fungus gnats can help spread pathogens, they do not feed on or otherwise harm plants and are considered a nuisance when they occur in indoor settings such as offices, malls, and apartment buildings.
Control Strategies
Monitoring for adults. Regular monitoring for winged adults using yellow sticky cards will help identify a fungus gnat infestation in its early stages. Disturbing the foliage of plants suspected to be infested will cause fungus gnats to leave plants, and can help trapping efforts. Trapping alone is not recommended as the sole means of control, but when used in conjunction with other methods can reduce significant numbers of adults.
Physical and cultural controls. Do not overwater plants. Keep growing areas as dry, algae-free and weed-free as possible. Pull and bag weeds that may harbor pests. For office and home situation with a relatively few number of plants, cover entire soil area with plastic wrap to prevent adult emergence and egg laying.
Chemical controls. Although the use of insecticides to control fungus gnats on small numbers of indoor plants is not recommended, pyrethrins or pyrethroids may provide short-term relief from adult gnats. (See Physical and cultural controls.) For commercial growing operations, consider adding a biological insecticide such as Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis to growing media. For more information, consult your local pesticide product dealer to see what works best for your situation.
Biological Control. Several species of beneficial nematodes are available to help keep fungus gnat larvae in check. Other predators such as rove beetles (family Staphylinidae), ground beetles (family Carabidae), and soil centipedes (family Geophilidae) may occur naturally in your growing area. Predator mite Hypoaspis miles and biological insecticides such as Bacillus thuringiensis can be applied to growing media to control fungus gnat larvae. Consult a supplier of biological control agents to see which agents will work best for your situation.
Predators. Soil-dwelling predator mite Hypoaspis miles; rove beetles such as Atheta sp. (family Staphylinidae).
Parasitoids. Synacra pauperi parasitizes the larval stage of fungus gnats. (Note: S. pauperi is not yet commercially available in the U.S., but is being used in Europe for fungus gnat control in mushroom houses.)
Nematodes. Steinernema carpocapsae or Steinernema feltiae nematodes attack the soil stages of fungus gnats. Consult with a supplier of beneficial nematodes to find out how to apply nematodes and about other beneficials that can be used in conjunction with nematodes for additional control.
Fungus gnats (family Sciaridae) are found in and around damp areas such as wet floors or benches with decaying vegetable matter, algae, and/or fungi present. Adult female fungus gnats lay eggs in soil or growing media. The eggs hatch into larvae that feed on plant roots. As their name suggests, the wings of adult dark-winged fungus gnats appear light to dark gray.
Unlike houseflies or other kinds of flying insects, adult fungus gnats tend to remain near plants (in indoor situations) at soil level and can be found resting on leaf litter and foliage. Larvae dwell in the soil until they pupate; they are legless and have transparent bodies with distinctly black head capsules. Pupae are difficult to detect without magnification, but are stouter and more brown than larvae.
Life Cycle
Female adult thrips deposit oval eggs under the soil surface. The following are the life stages and their approximate duration*:
1. Egg (hatch in 4-6 days)
2. Larva - four instars (10-14 days)
3. Pupa (5-7 days)
4. Adult (lives about 7 days)*
*Adult females can lay up to 1000 eggs in a lifetime!
Damage
Fungus gnat larvae feed on various parts of plant roots and generally diminish plant health. Plants infested with fungus gnat larvae can show signs of stunted growth. Larval feeding can also spread plant pathogens and/or make plants more susceptible to disease. Although adult fungus gnats can help spread pathogens, they do not feed on or otherwise harm plants and are considered a nuisance when they occur in indoor settings such as offices, malls, and apartment buildings.
Control Strategies
Monitoring for adults. Regular monitoring for winged adults using yellow sticky cards will help identify a fungus gnat infestation in its early stages. Disturbing the foliage of plants suspected to be infested will cause fungus gnats to leave plants, and can help trapping efforts. Trapping alone is not recommended as the sole means of control, but when used in conjunction with other methods can reduce significant numbers of adults.
Physical and cultural controls. Do not overwater plants. Keep growing areas as dry, algae-free and weed-free as possible. Pull and bag weeds that may harbor pests. For office and home situation with a relatively few number of plants, cover entire soil area with plastic wrap to prevent adult emergence and egg laying.
Chemical controls. Although the use of insecticides to control fungus gnats on small numbers of indoor plants is not recommended, pyrethrins or pyrethroids may provide short-term relief from adult gnats. (See Physical and cultural controls.) For commercial growing operations, consider adding a biological insecticide such as Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis to growing media. For more information, consult your local pesticide product dealer to see what works best for your situation.
Biological Control. Several species of beneficial nematodes are available to help keep fungus gnat larvae in check. Other predators such as rove beetles (family Staphylinidae), ground beetles (family Carabidae), and soil centipedes (family Geophilidae) may occur naturally in your growing area. Predator mite Hypoaspis miles and biological insecticides such as Bacillus thuringiensis can be applied to growing media to control fungus gnat larvae. Consult a supplier of biological control agents to see which agents will work best for your situation.
Predators. Soil-dwelling predator mite Hypoaspis miles; rove beetles such as Atheta sp. (family Staphylinidae).
Parasitoids. Synacra pauperi parasitizes the larval stage of fungus gnats. (Note: S. pauperi is not yet commercially available in the U.S., but is being used in Europe for fungus gnat control in mushroom houses.)
Nematodes. Steinernema carpocapsae or Steinernema feltiae nematodes attack the soil stages of fungus gnats. Consult with a supplier of beneficial nematodes to find out how to apply nematodes and about other beneficials that can be used in conjunction with nematodes for additional control.
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- #158
I'm getting a delivery from ASDA tomorrow, so will have a look and get something to be delivered with the rest of the stuff. I'm sure they will have a similar product. I think I will also place a layer of sand over the top as an extra precaution.
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- #159
Okay so the only thing I could find on my virtual walk through the store was Hydrogen Peroxide. It will be delivered tomorrow, so will be able to apply it after work.
Hopefully it will be able to slow them down until I go into town at the weekend and get something proper. Just need to do a bit of research now on how much of it to use.
EDIT- After a bit of research I think h202 may ruin the good bacteria in my soil also, sort of sterilizing it. Is it worth using Hydrogen Peroxide when growing in soil?
Hopefully it will be able to slow them down until I go into town at the weekend and get something proper. Just need to do a bit of research now on how much of it to use.
EDIT- After a bit of research I think h202 may ruin the good bacteria in my soil also, sort of sterilizing it. Is it worth using Hydrogen Peroxide when growing in soil?
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- #160
