McBudz Perpetual Journal

:thumb: Everything is looking good, as always.

Is the Azatrol working well as a systemic? I always worried it wouldn't be enough, but if it stops them eating, they will die I guess.

:bong:

How many amps or watts per line are you wanting to switch? I understand that you want to have each line remain isolated, power-wise, am I right? And there are only 2 circuits, right?

What you need are a relay, a bit of wire, 2 short heavy duty grounded extension cords, a plastic box and some screws. You can get relays that will switch 120V at 8A safely with sockets for $16 each at Fry's. If that is all the power you are pulling through them, you could use those and have something for under $50 probably.

You would end up with a box with two cords for in and 2 for out. One plugs into a regular timer of any sort you would use to switch lights; the timer plugs into circuit A. The other cord in just plugs into circuit B. When the timer turns A on, it also energizes the relay, turning B on as well. Each extra slave circuit takes one more relay and one more extension cord. All circuits are kept separate.

I could walk you through it. I'm not an electrician, but we could even adhere to the electrical code I think.

:peace:

Thanks mate. I think the CAP UPM-1 is all I need. I just orderd it.

Today I have 2 timers plugged into 2 different 15A 120V circuits. My goal was not so much to combine the circuits but just got both to be timed by the same timer. The UPM1 can do this (thanks SF). Basically I just need to replace the timer on 1 half of my setup with the UPM1 and attach the trigger cable to the 1st timer. The UPM will draw its power from the second circuit but receive the low current signal to turn on/off from the first timer so when circuit 1 turns on it triggers the UPM to fire up circuit 2. Cost me $70bucks and seems very simple to setup. I think I'm good in that dept now. Thanks!
 
Thanks mate. I think the CAP UPM-1 is all I need. I just orderd it.

Today I have 2 timers plugged into 2 different 15A 120V circuits. My goal was not so much to combine the circuits but just got both to be timed by the same timer. The UPM1 can do this (thanks SF). Basically I just need to replace the timer on 1 half of my setup with the UPM1 and attach the trigger cable to the 1st timer. The UPM will draw its power from the second circuit but receive the low current signal to turn on/off from the first timer so when circuit 1 turns on it triggers the UPM to fire up circuit 2. Cost me $70bucks and seems very simple to setup. I think I'm good in that dept now. Thanks!

No problem. My offer was for essentially the same device, just for less money. I understand wanting warrantied equipment though.

:peace:
 
What you need are a relay, a bit of wire, 2 short heavy duty grounded extension cords, a plastic box and some screws. You can get relays that will switch 120V at 8A safely with sockets for $16 each at Fry's. If that is all the power you are pulling through them, you could use those and have something for under $50 probably.

I could walk you through it. I'm not an electrician, but we could even adhere to the electrical code I think.

:peace:

I built a mini grow room inside a 13 cu. ft. freezer back when I lived in NYC and my grow had to be small and stealth. 250w MH/HPS switchable that I hacked apart and plumbed into the freezer's electrical. Had to have it partitioned and vented on the top (where the bulb was) and the freezer cooling the enclosed grow chamber. Added CO2, and sealed, with a locking door ;). To control the climate i bought a nice digital thermostat for a house. House thermostats run @ 5 volts, so I had to buy a relay to control the 110v fridge. It's not hard to do.

as i remember though, the relay was not that cheap. . . somewhere around $65-75 i think.

for that price, I'd rather just buy the thing that does what I want rather than do it myself. . . but i do love to do it myself, just not when its the same price-ish as an assembled product.

did you build something cool using a relay?
 
Thanks mate. I think the CAP UPM-1 is all I need. I just orderd it.

Today I have 2 timers plugged into 2 different 15A 120V circuits. My goal was not so much to combine the circuits but just got both to be timed by the same timer. The UPM1 can do this (thanks SF). Basically I just need to replace the timer on 1 half of my setup with the UPM1 and attach the trigger cable to the 1st timer. The UPM will draw its power from the second circuit but receive the low current signal to turn on/off from the first timer so when circuit 1 turns on it triggers the UPM to fire up circuit 2. Cost me $70bucks and seems very simple to setup. I think I'm good in that dept now. Thanks!


I love you guys! If you want a chuckle - look in my journal lately at all the work I put into thinking about switching to 240 for this same thing. I'm gonna get one of these instead and do the same thing as you - much time and $ saved!!!.

:cheertwo::bravo::nicethread::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:
 
Hey, iffin you guys have time, you can come by and wire up the new sub panel I need installed. :) I have a bit of a problem as this current setup is running 2-1000 watter's and a 400 watter on the same circuit as the a/c unit. A/C kicks on and the whole shooting match goes dark...ughhh. Picking up 20 foot of 6-3 and a 6 place sub panel so I can separate the grow room completely(except the a/c). Worked fine until I added one more 1000 watt unit, and with temps approaching 90, I will need to move fast. ^420 guys, always a learnin experience to be here. Keep up the great work.
 
GL with the sub panel. I think that's doable if you can kill power and do it safely. One little tip sometimes not mentioned - make sure you balance the legs in the main.

Power comes in at 220 to the box and is split to 110 to each leg in the box. When you pull the sub panel, you may have to move some breakers to make space. If you do - make sure you get back to numbers that balance both legs inside the box. It will work the other way, but you will see a huge spike in costs if the legs are unbalanced.

:goodluck:
 
Thanks mate. I think the CAP UPM-1 is all I need. I just orderd it.

Today I have 2 timers plugged into 2 different 15A 120V circuits. My goal was not so much to combine the circuits but just got both to be timed by the same timer. The UPM1 can do this (thanks SF). Basically I just need to replace the timer on 1 half of my setup with the UPM1 and attach the trigger cable to the 1st timer. The UPM will draw its power from the second circuit but receive the low current signal to turn on/off from the first timer so when circuit 1 turns on it triggers the UPM to fire up circuit 2. Cost me $70bucks and seems very simple to setup. I think I'm good in that dept now. Thanks!

Thats making me think now. I'm about to add a 1000 watter to my 600 watter in my flowering room. I will have to put it on it's own circuit and run 2 timers now. I'm using the hydrofarm timers:
tim3er.jpg


SO how difficult will it be to sycronize (cant spell it) two timers that will shut off close to the exact same time? I dont want any issues messing up my lighting schedule during flowering.
 
Thats making me think now. I'm about to add a 1000 watter to my 600 watter in my flowering room. I will have to put it on it's own circuit and run 2 timers now. I'm using the hydrofarm timers:
tim3er.jpg


SO how difficult will it be to sycronize (cant spell it) two timers that will shut off close to the exact same time? I dont want any issues messing up my lighting schedule during flowering.

its tough with mech timers. always seems to be a few minutes off.
 
I purchased a heavy duty digital appliance timer that has dual outlets. It would work much better in this instance. I have both of the 1000 watt bulbs running off this timer. If I only have to run one of the 1000 watt bulbs, I simply unplug one. I bought it at Lowes, guessing ~ $50-$70 dollars.
 
I went this way:

SS852934.JPG


If you get to custom build the actual structure, or have unfinished walls (and can thus wire it easily), put in a subpanel with lots of amps. You won't regret it. (240VAC x 30A) * .8 = 5760 W, which is enough to safely power 5 1000's or 8 600's. If you own a house, build a 'shop' off of your garage. No one will question the need for beefy 240/120VAC. I put in 2 x (240VAC @ 30A) and 2 x (120VAC @ 30A) which is more than I need. It only cost a few grand and a heap of sweat and smashed fingers.

I never heard about balancing the legs to save money before. Seriously? Hmmm. I might reduce my bill then because I'm pretty sure my grow's 120VAC is all coming off of one leg.

Also, that makes me wonder about the possibility of a computer-controlled grow doing smart switching and re-balancing the legs on the fly whenever something is turned on or off. It could easily be done with burly DPDT relays with no fear of mating the legs directly. I'll add that to my 'master plan', lol.

:peace:
 
Damn... Im going to be a certified electrician after reading all these post. LoL. Very interesting though, and its something that Im going to have to learn very soon here. I already have over 3K watts running. About to add a little over 2K more with 2 more lights and another vent fan. For a total of around 6K watts. I know Im going to love that electricity bill.

Can someone tell me what a "Leg" is in electrical terms?? Sounds interesting.
 
I went this way:

SS852934.JPG


If you get to custom build the actual structure, or have unfinished walls (and can thus wire it easily), put in a subpanel with lots of amps. You won't regret it. (240VAC x 30A) * .8 = 5760 W, which is enough to safely power 5 1000's or 8 600's. If you own a house, build a 'shop' off of your garage. No one will question the need for beefy 240/120VAC. I put in 2 x (240VAC @ 30A) and 2 x (120VAC @ 30A) which is more than I need. It only cost a few grand and a heap of sweat and smashed fingers.

I never heard about balancing the legs to save money before. Seriously? Hmmm. I might reduce my bill then because I'm pretty sure my grow's 120VAC is all coming off of one leg.

Also, that makes me wonder about the possibility of a computer-controlled grow doing smart switching and re-balancing the legs on the fly whenever something is turned on or off. It could easily be done with burly DPDT relays with no fear of mating the legs directly. I'll add that to my 'master plan', lol.

:peace:

I am installing a second panel, fed of the main line, but parallel to the main breaker. It is a 100 amp, 6 space box with all six slots using 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the 1000 watters (2) and one 20 amp for the rest of the grow. That leaves 4-20 amp breakers open for future expansion. I will finish wiring all the outlets tomorrow and maybe have time to cut over the supply as well. Sure am glad I kept my linemans gloves :).

I have seen in last months high times, an article on a fully automated soil grow, all computer controlled. Even nutrients mix and feeding times are controlled via computer. My main concern would be over/under watering. But maybe there is a device to monitor soil moisture levels individually. Or maybe a scale(sensor) to monitor container weight. With a PLC controller and valves, it could be done fairly cheap? I will have to research this more to be sure. I am all about automating as much as I can, reliably. I have included a pic of the digital appliance timer I am using, Works great for controlling both lights,

Digital_Timer.jpg
 
I am installing a second panel, fed of the main line, but parallel to the main breaker. It is a 100 amp, 6 space box with all six slots using 20 amp breakers. One 20 amp for the 1000 watters (2) and one 20 amp for the rest of the grow. That leaves 4-20 amp breakers open for future expansion. I will finish wiring all the outlets tomorrow and maybe have time to cut over the supply as well. Sure am glad I kept my linemans gloves :).

I have seen in last months high times, an article on a fully automated soil grow, all computer controlled. Even nutrients mix and feeding times are controlled via computer. My main concern would be over/under watering. But maybe there is a device to monitor soil moisture levels individually. Or maybe a scale(sensor) to monitor container weight. With a PLC controller and valves, it could be done fairly cheap? I will have to research this more to be sure. I am all about automating as much as I can, reliably. I have included a pic of the digital appliance timer I am using, Works great for controlling both lights,

Digital_Timer.jpg

That was March's issue of High Times. They called it "Robo Crop, Garden of the Future". lol. Got the magazine right here. And your right... they cover just about everything except how they prevent from over-watering or under-watering.

I know Home Depot sells an analog soil multimeter that measures moisture, PH and Lumens for about $15 bucks. So Im sure they have a digital version available somewhere that can be integrated into that whole computer grow system.

That grow op is pretty nice though. The guy said he only visits it once every 2 weeks, and thats just to make sure that all his buckets and reservoirs are topped off how they should be.
 
Hey McBudz..... got a quick question that off the electrical subject.

I have one plant outdoors right now. I put it outside late and it still have about 2 more weeks to go to finish flowering.

I noticed that the daylight hours have went up to 12.75 hours of daylight where I live. Soon they will be at 13 hours of daylight. Will this screw up my flowering plant?

Im thinking it should be fine, but if its going to start switching back over to veg, then I'll just chop it down right now. Curious.
 
Hey I'm back went to Boston for a few days. GR took some abuse while I was gone. Trying to rectify now. Looks like heat issues and high ppm due to res dropping low. some nemesis plants got cooked. New BW and PE plants look ok. Mom's got a little dry. Def. lost some yeild on upcoming Nemesis harvest for sure. bummer
 
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