McBudz Perpetual Journal

NewGrower1 said:
How tough are the tryouts? Lol.
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She made bud tons of crystals but not quite the yeild. BW is up there, and I just love smell and taste of the PE. I think I'm gonna do an all PE for the next clones I take.

Pretty soon I'll be able to snag a test clone of the choco and SB and send through and check for herm etc.


New pics:

BW CLones

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Strawberry Blue

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Chocolope

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6 days

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4 weeks 1 day - All Nemesis

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WeedyMcWeedWeed said:
Shits look chronic.. and fyi if you caught the indica pheno of the SB, you'll love it my buddy was pulling almost 2oz off the main colas.. which is what I know you love.
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How tall were the plants and how long did he veg them for? Thanks
 
looking beautiful as usual bro.

clones not quite as uniform as usual. . . lol, but still more uniform than me. they look great!
 
WheeloFortune said:
looking beautiful as usual bro.

clones not quite as uniform as usual. . . lol, but still more uniform than me. they look great!
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Has somewhat to do with the mom not being bushy enough yet to supply me with uniform clones. Next time they should be better. ;)

I topped a bunch of the clones today to shoot for more main colas. I have 4 weeks of veg time to go so I'm looking to increase main colas without making it too bushy by LSTing.
 
McBudz said:
I topped a bunch of the clones today to shoot for more main colas. I have 4 weeks of veg time to go so I'm looking to increase main colas without making it too bushy by LSTing.
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Sounds good and think it is the better way to go brother! Garden looking immaculate as usual :nicethread:
 
So he vegged for likke 6 weeks. They were both from seed. They went into flower around 12"(yes a foot after 6 weeks!!!) They finished around 3.5'. Around 4oz/plant. Dense nice buds too. Smells tastes and looks phenomonal. A nice put you on your ass kinda high.

It definietly looks like you caught the indica pheno too..
 
SO my pull from this last harvest is not what I was hoping for. Looks to be about 12-13 ounces.

Some changes that have been made or are in the process:

Switched back to liquid KB.

Adding hygrozyme back into each res change (at least for veg and the first 4 weeks of bloom)

Will be adding roots excel. by H&G during the cloning, veg and early bloom weeks.

Running azatrol 2 ounces per barrel every 3rd res chnage. (roughly once a month for a res cycle.) Keep creepy white bugs out of my pots. Prevent any possible other type of pest issues.

Moved clone cutting further up in the process so I can get 2 weeks in the cloner then 4 weeks in the veg closet.

Current vegging clones I have topped to shoot for several main colas. We will see how I do with overcrowding.

Will be replacing the bulbs as I fear they may not be as strong as it used to be. This bulb may be one of my original 600's. Also I had way too many hot starts a few weeks ago during a storm when the power flicked on and off about 6 or 7 times through the day.

Also need to do something about my timers. I use mech timers and they are not always in synch so my actual dark period does not turn out to be a perfect 12 hours. Thinking setting 1 timer to run 12.5 off 11.5 on and one at 12/12. This way if they drift hopefully its within 15 minutes either way during and I get a good 12 hour dark period.

I once saw a device / timer thing that ran 2 separate 15 amp circuits off 1 timer. took a low current signal from a single timer and on/off'd the power to both circuits from the single timer.

I forgot where it was and I have spent hours trying to find it again without luck. Its exactly what I need.

Or I need to get 2 easy to use digital timers and keep them in within minutes. These mech timers can really screw with you.
 
McBudz said:
I once saw a device / timer thing that ran 2 separate 15 amp circuits off 1 timer. took a low current signal from a single timer and on/off'd the power to both circuits from the single timer.

I forgot where it was and I have spent hours trying to find it again without luck. Its exactly what I need.
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McB.

Was it CAP?

The UPM-1 Universal Power Module is a unique device that can allow the user to run additional HID lights or control multiple fans/air conditioners or other high amperage 120 volt equipment. The UPM-1's plug-box is designed to be plugged into a standard household outlet. The 16 foot trigger cable coming from the UPM-1 is then connected to your control device such as a time clock, thermostat or environmental controller. When the control device applies power to the trigger cable, the relay inside the UPM-1 applies power to the twin outlets on the front of the UPM-1 from the circuit that the UPM-1 is plugged into, not from the controlling deices power.

Paired with:
The MLC-4X and MLC-4XT Master Lighting Controllers are the best devices for controlling up to four HID lights from one time-clock or controller. You run 30 amp, 120/240 volt power into the MLC-4, and all of the outlets are controlled by one 120 volt trigger cable. You can plug the trigger cable into a standard 24 hour timer, environmental controller or one of the C.A.P. HLC series of garden and lighting protection devices. The MLC-4X and MLC-4XT has four 120/240 volt style outlets which allows for running your ballasts at 120/240 volts without having to change out your ballast power cords. The MLC-4XT has an integrated timer that allows you to control your MLC with the built-in time clock.

SF
 
Close but it looks like this only runs on 1 15 amp circuit.

The device I saw was sort of a way to combine 2 x 15 AMP circuits to be triggered by a single external timer, similar to this CAP UPM but different.

StinkFinger said:
McB.

Was it CAP?

The UPM-1 Universal Power Module is a unique device that can allow the user to run additional HID lights or control multiple fans/air conditioners or other high amperage 120 volt equipment. The UPM-1's plug-box is designed to be plugged into a standard household outlet. The 16 foot trigger cable coming from the UPM-1 is then connected to your control device such as a time clock, thermostat or environmental controller. When the control device applies power to the trigger cable, the relay inside the UPM-1 applies power to the twin outlets on the front of the UPM-1 from the circuit that the UPM-1 is plugged into, not from the controlling deices power.

Paired with:
The MLC-4X and MLC-4XT Master Lighting Controllers are the best devices for controlling up to four HID lights from one time-clock or controller. You run 30 amp, 120/240 volt power into the MLC-4, and all of the outlets are controlled by one 120 volt trigger cable. You can plug the trigger cable into a standard 24 hour timer, environmental controller or one of the C.A.P. HLC series of garden and lighting protection devices. The MLC-4X and MLC-4XT has four 120/240 volt style outlets which allows for running your ballasts at 120/240 volts without having to change out your ballast power cords. The MLC-4XT has an integrated timer that allows you to control your MLC with the built-in time clock.

SF
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McBudz said:
Some changes that have been made or are in the process:

Switched back to liquid KB.

Adding hygrozyme back into each res change (at least for veg and the first 4 weeks of bloom)

Will be adding roots excel. by H&G during the cloning, veg and early bloom weeks......

Or I need to get 2 easy to use digital timers and keep them in within minutes. These mech timers can really screw with you.
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Its funny you say that. I got a 3 digi timers 'from HomeDepot the other day each for 3 bucks. I switched out 3 of my timers I have yet to switch my mech thats in my flowering area. I do just as you stated w/ them. I was running that one 11 hours and 45 minutes and now all the digi timers are at 12/12. thiose mechs work fine for veg. Cause if they dont switch off, then at least the plants wont suffer. However on the other hand(and its happened on more then one occasion) if it dont switch on..Well you know what happens.
 
McBudz said:
Close but it looks like this only runs on 1 15 amp circuit.

The device I saw was sort of a way to combine 2 x 15 AMP circuits to be triggered by a single external timer, similar to this CAP UPM but different.
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McB.

From my research.

The UPM, combined with a CAP controller/timer will operate on 2 separate circuits. You plug one power cord of the UPM into 1 circuit, then you'll plug the controller portion into a different outlet (circuit).

The timer/controller will then kick the UPM on at the same time from the controller.

The 16 foot trigger cable coming from the UPM-1 is then connected to your control device such as a time clock, thermostat or environmental controller. When the control device applies power to the trigger cable, the relay inside the UPM-1 applies power to the twin outlets on the front of the UPM-1 from the circuit that the UPM-1 is plugged into, not from the controlling deices power.
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I investigated this myself to break up the circuits as you want to do. Not too expensive, both units combined.

Just trying to help man.

SF
 
Ahh now I'm pickin up what your putting down. Very nice I will have to look further into this. My mind was stuck on the other thing but I see now how this will work. very cool.

StinkFinger said:
McB.

From my research.

The UPM, combined with a CAP controller/timer will operate on 2 separate circuits. You plug one power cord of the UPM into 1 circuit, then you'll plug the controller portion into a different outlet (circuit).

The timer/controller will then kick the UPM on at the same time from the controller.



I investigated this myself to break up the circuits as you want to do. Not too expensive, both units combined.

Just trying to help man.

SF
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StinkFinger said:
Nice find TBD.

Don't think those would work across the pond here. At the very least it would add quite a bit to have to purchase UK to US adapter plugs.

Jolly Good Mate!
SF
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Surely there is a company that does something similar in the Usa.
 
:thumb: Everything is looking good, as always.

Is the Azatrol working well as a systemic? I always worried it wouldn't be enough, but if it stops them eating, they will die I guess.

:bong:

How many amps or watts per line are you wanting to switch? I understand that you want to have each line remain isolated, power-wise, am I right? And there are only 2 circuits, right?

What you need are a relay, a bit of wire, 2 short heavy duty grounded extension cords, a plastic box and some screws. You can get relays that will switch 120V at 8A safely with sockets for $16 each at Fry's. If that is all the power you are pulling through them, you could use those and have something for under $50 probably.

You would end up with a box with two cords for in and 2 for out. One plugs into a regular timer of any sort you would use to switch lights; the timer plugs into circuit A. The other cord in just plugs into circuit B. When the timer turns A on, it also energizes the relay, turning B on as well. Each extra slave circuit takes one more relay and one more extension cord. All circuits are kept separate.

I could walk you through it. I'm not an electrician, but we could even adhere to the electrical code I think.

:peace:
 
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