CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
Well I said it in my best "Benny Hill" voice.
Awww man, I love Benny Hill. Used to watch him all the time when it was on Tv...
Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion
- Thread starter Mars Hydro
- Start date
Awww man, I love Benny Hill. Used to watch him all the time when it was on Tv...
Gnarl E Green
Well-Known Member
CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
Cool I will have to search for him..He and his dancers are on youtube.
Dave Groomer
Well-Known Member
Hey Sara,
I sent you an email.
Thanks
I sent you an email.
Thanks
gudyul
Well-Known Member
A remote device for checking environmental conditions like temp and humidity with beeper are already out there. THis light may be useful with an automatic sun rise sun set with uv kicking in during mid cycle. Put a manual timer( or digital)on outside of case of individual lights. temp and humidity,surveillance devices for remote monitoring are already o the market ( at least I think they are) If Mars needs a gimmick to promote sales then the auto sunrise /sunset feature without remote control should be sufficient. THe built in timers have been on ballasts for some time now, built in timers need to be replaceable though. Built in timers help reduce the need for too many plugged in timers hanging out of a socket. Programmable may suck as they lose programing in black outs if they don't have battery back ups ( which also fail when back up battery fails). I Know , I'm singing to the quire.. Apparently the Pro series will work with out the funky remote thingee. I would be willing to buy bulk less the cost of the remotes. Getting some good reports so far on heat,spectrum ...have not heard of any ballast issues from the Epistar Pro testers yet...
It seems like these issues with the remote should not even exist. When you come out with a new product you must always field test FIRST to get the bugs out. Give one light to one grower for a day or two and these problems would have been caught and fixed. I dont think it is good to sell a thousand of them and use paying customers as the field test. I hope when these things are resolved that you guys get a free upgrade or something.
CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
My Air Filter & Exhaust Muffler on cart...
See Motor and ducting in the inside... & Co2 tank on top...
Co2 tank hose going up wall and over to the back of one of the rotating Fans...
And one of my 10 gallon pots with soil in it and a wire cage to support the branches.
Will also put Bamboo Sticks laying on the tops of each wire cirle at angles to support the branches sorta like a Sog at different angles on each of the circles.
See Motor and ducting in the inside... & Co2 tank on top...
Co2 tank hose going up wall and over to the back of one of the rotating Fans...
And one of my 10 gallon pots with soil in it and a wire cage to support the branches.
Will also put Bamboo Sticks laying on the tops of each wire cirle at angles to support the branches sorta like a Sog at different angles on each of the circles.
I like the kiss method best myself and a simple switch would be a great idea, but if you install that why not add the dispatches also. Pretty sure if you are going to buy 50 lights or even 3 for that matter if you can not figure out how to set the dip switches, you can find someone who can. Every auto garage door out there has them so your neighbor can not open your door with his remote. Actually the main reason they started putting them in garage doors was before they started doing it, thieves would get 4 or 5 remotes and just drive down the streets hitting them till some unlucky persons door opened up because there we so few different frequencies being used.A simple receiver on/off switch on the light would do the same as unscrewing the receiver. I have not personally seen the light, but I can tell you that if threading is involved, some human is going to cross thread it eventually and mess something up. DIP switches would really screw some people up. Give the masses a simple on/off switch and they can't really screw it up. Turn the receiver(s) on for the light(s) you want to control. Off when they don't need to be controlled.
No offense to anyone, but some of us are more mechanically, electronically and mathematically apt than others. In general the KISS principal should apply to mass market items for those who are not as up on tech as others.
Just my two cents.
My Air Filter & Exhaust Muffler on cart...
See Motor and ducting in the inside... & Co2 tank on top...
Co2 tank hose going up wall and over to the back of one of the rotating Fans...
And one of my 10 gallon pots with soil in it and a wire cage to support the branches.
Will also put Bamboo Sticks laying on the tops of each wire cirle at angles to support the branches sorta like a Sog at different angles on each of the circles.
Love the cart for the Fan, great idea. Are you using rubber pads under where you mounted it to the cabinet? If not, you should will make it even quieter. Takes out a lot of the vibration.
Can not wait till you kick it into production, you have spent some time and effort to think your room out very thoroughly! Kudos!
Catfishknight,
that one remote controls all lights makes sense (they're probably IR remotes) and they would probably need to implement some fancy coding system in the future if they want it so that each remote can control one particular lamp.
But can you not program each particular lamp like you want it with the remote (while covering the IR sensors if there are any on the two others) and it would keep the settings for the one light? I am not familiar with those lights and the functionality they have but you will likely not have to constantly "program" them, maybe just once every so or so months. (That is, until you have a power-outage of course Or said differently, say if you want to set one light as "for seedlings" you sure can do that, once done cover sensor of the (programmed one) with tape, program the others etc.etc... at some point all should be programmed like you want them?
(My first tip was to get red, green and blue transparent foil...and cover the sensors with it for each pair....until I realized this is silly since it's Infrared so this won't work )
that one remote controls all lights makes sense (they're probably IR remotes) and they would probably need to implement some fancy coding system in the future if they want it so that each remote can control one particular lamp.
But can you not program each particular lamp like you want it with the remote (while covering the IR sensors if there are any on the two others) and it would keep the settings for the one light? I am not familiar with those lights and the functionality they have but you will likely not have to constantly "program" them, maybe just once every so or so months. (That is, until you have a power-outage of course
Or said differently, say if you want to set one light as "for seedlings" you sure can do that, once done cover sensor of the (programmed one) with tape, program the others etc.etc... at some point all should be programmed like you want them?(My first tip was to get red, green and blue transparent foil...and cover the sensors with it for each pair....until I realized this is silly since it's Infrared so this won't work
)
CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
Yes I can do that way but if electricity goes out you have start all over again..
Catfishknight,
that one remote controls all lights makes sense (they're probably IR remotes) and they would probably need to implement some fancy coding system in the future if they want it so that each remote can control one particular lamp.
But can you not program each particular lamp like you want it with the remote (while covering the IR sensors if there are any on the two others) and it would keep the settings for the one light? I am not familiar with those lights and the functionality they have but you will likely not have to constantly "program" them, maybe just once every so or so months. (That is, until you have a power-outage of course
CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the complement on the cart. Yes it is really quiet the way I have it setup. This weekend I will get the Co2 tanks hooked up and running and bring in one of my grown Pepper Plants to test out the room to see if it works okay. Temp was up to 92 degrees this morning after letting the lights on all night.
HookdOnChron
New Member
Hello All, I have a 1200 watt mars LED, would someone please tell me how many CFMS I will need for my 4 x 4 grow tent? any advice is appreciated, thank you!
JohnnieJC3
Well-Known Member
I would go with a 6 inch fan. I run a 4 inch vortex in my 2x4 and it's perfect.
You have a great layout gonna be EPIC !
Is 92 still ok ? Really dont know never let mine go past 82 or below 75,, My thot is when you have moisture evaporation from those 10gal pots the wet bulb temp ( RH ) may rise above your wishes. Just sayin not trying to be critical at all just thinking with my fingers
CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
You have a great layout gonna be EPIC !
Hey Plugged. This Led and enclosed Grow Room is all new to me.
Learning by watching Youtube videos and etc.
Using Co2 I saw you can let it go up to 105 degrees, on this one video I was watching.
But a lot of others said around 95 degrees is better for the Co2 enhancement.
I guess I will fine out. Lol.
That is one of the reasons I will be trying one of my grown Pepper Plants in it first.
Plugged, what do you mean by: moisture evaporation from those 10gal pots the wet bulb temp ( RH ) may rise above your wishes. Higher temps?
Should I use 5 gallon pots instead?
Gnarl E Green
Well-Known Member
Hey Catfish,
I had 5 extra little clones that I refused to throw away, but I had no room left in my tent, so I decided to leave them in one gallon pots and put them in saucers meant for 5 gallon pots. Each saucer could hold 3 plants and pushed together I was able to cram 5 pots into what should have been space for one plant.
I kept them short and in the end they produced 73 grams of dried manicured buds. I probably took them out 7-10 days early to give the big girls more room.
This is a picture of the runt which I accidentally broke one fork off near the bottom and ended up with a crippled deformed little plant. My friends said it put something on them ajax wouldn't take off regardless what a rough life it lead.
One of the buds from the same plant.
Grown in a very crowded Mars Hydro 5 x 5 tent under a Mars II 1200.
If I could get results under those conditions you should be able to grow sequoias in ten gallon pots in your set ups. Myself I never used larger than 3 gallon pots, in my own soil mix adding nothing but rain water the entire grow. I love to experiment. I am thinking of trying to grow a seed to maturity in a solo cup just to see what it does.
Incidentally, I noticed my plants started to wilt and show stress above 95, but seemed to thrive between 85 and 90. I didn't inject any Co2, but have to sheepishly admit to letting a little methane slip into the tent on occasion.
CatfishKnight
Well-Known Member
Ok I guess I will go back to 5 gallon Pots then. I just thought maybe they would do better in 10 gallons. More stocky and bushier to fold out at 90 degree angles along the bamboo sticks to open them up to more light.
Hey Catfish,
I had 5 extra little clones that I refused to throw away, but I had no room left in my tent, so I decided to leave them in one gallon pots and put them in saucers meant for 5 gallon pots. Each saucer could hold 3 plants and pushed together I was able to cram 5 pots into what should have been space for one plant.
I kept them short and in the end they produced 73 grams of dried manicured buds. I probably took them out 7-10 days early to give the big girls more room.
This is a picture of the runt which I accidentally broke one fork off near the bottom and ended up with a crippled deformed little plant. My friends said it put something on them ajax wouldn't take off regardless what a rough life it lead.
One of the buds from the same plant.
Grown in a very crowded Mars Hydro 5 x 5 tent under a Mars II 1200.
If I could get results under those conditions you should be able to grow sequoias in ten gallon pots in your set ups. Myself I never used larger than 3 gallon pots, in my own soil mix adding nothing but rain water the entire grow. I love to experiment. I am thinking of trying to grow a seed to maturity in a solo cup just to see what it does.
Incidentally, I noticed my plants started to wilt and show stress above 95, but seemed to thrive between 85 and 90. I didn't inject any Co2, but have to sheepishly admit to letting a little methane slip into the tent on occasion.
P Jennings
420 Member
Greetings,
Received a Mars-hydro 160 today. I would have rather just sent a PM to someone but since I do not have enough posts [not sure what that's about] I have to just post this out in front of everyone.
First impressions, well tell me what you would think guys and gals.
Box is marked Epistar, directions claim Cree. Me-clueless.
Apparently the remote function has got everyone confused. I have watched three videos on YouTube.
1 from Colorado's finest from here, one from a Meduser1, and the third from Mars themselves. My light functions most like Meduser1's and with each change in settings [seedling,veg and bloom] the light turns on, flashes three times and turns off. Looks like it stays on in the others video's so I assume this is a new change to the already cumbersome light, and quite frankly the directions are horrible. I have seen several complain, so I know this is not just me.
Not sure why we are using fish aquarium tech on a grow light, but is what it is.
I like, I would assume most people just want to turn on the seed or veg and have it on 24/7 and when I hit bloom I want 12/12 or 11/13 for the sativas. That said looks like I am most likely stuck with this now as when I ordered it, it had to be built and shipped from China, otherwise I would return it immediately.
If someone would be so kind to explain how the remote really works that would be awesome. If that is even possible...
I'll reserve any and all comments on how well this covers the area it claims, but I built a room specific to its claims and will be testing it here.
Received a Mars-hydro 160 today. I would have rather just sent a PM to someone but since I do not have enough posts [not sure what that's about] I have to just post this out in front of everyone.
First impressions, well tell me what you would think guys and gals.
Box is marked Epistar, directions claim Cree. Me-clueless.
Apparently the remote function has got everyone confused. I have watched three videos on YouTube.
1 from Colorado's finest from here, one from a Meduser1, and the third from Mars themselves. My light functions most like Meduser1's and with each change in settings [seedling,veg and bloom] the light turns on, flashes three times and turns off. Looks like it stays on in the others video's so I assume this is a new change to the already cumbersome light, and quite frankly the directions are horrible. I have seen several complain, so I know this is not just me.
Not sure why we are using fish aquarium tech on a grow light, but is what it is.
I like, I would assume most people just want to turn on the seed or veg and have it on 24/7 and when I hit bloom I want 12/12 or 11/13 for the sativas. That said looks like I am most likely stuck with this now as when I ordered it, it had to be built and shipped from China, otherwise I would return it immediately.
If someone would be so kind to explain how the remote really works that would be awesome. If that is even possible...
I'll reserve any and all comments on how well this covers the area it claims, but I built a room specific to its claims and will be testing it here.
Gnarl E Green
Well-Known Member
Not trying to influence the way you grow at all. Just letting you know that they are very forgiving plants. A bird could drop a load containing a seed on a flat rock and it would thrive
This is the tent after removing the 5 in the 1 gallon pots just before harvesting two more plants in 3 gallon pots. The Light Master mathematicians in the group would tell you that 585 wall watts in a 5x5 space wouldn't grow crab grass, but ...
Left side
Right side
