Mars-Hydro DWC 1 Plant 4x4 Scrog

[Tokin Roll]

I am! Thanks for the detailed explanation!

How's the weather been on your piece of this rock?

Has everything pasted?

Me too! And yes, I have a question. Or many. So now Monday you switch to 12/12. The plant will start stretching shortly thereafter. This will go on for however long, maybe two weeks or so. As the branches get longer, will you continue to tuck them out wider and wider to fill the outer remaining screen holes?

yes, the net should be full after the stretch period, and then it's all about bud building.

And will you also, as the stretch goes on, do something (LST, supercropping, bending, whatever) to try and have bud sites in each hole of the screen and to fill the outer space as evenly as possible?

The only thing I did with this one was top after the 6th node, and 3 plan trims, 2 on bottom and one on top, that's all.

The bending only comes into play when getting ready to place under the net. And figure height of net.

Would you use supercropping just to change the direction on a branch to send it to a certain space? I would think during the stretch is when you do all that, yes?

A net with small opening is how I do it. I use about 3 inch opening for better control.

A week before you go into flower cycle stop doing everything. You want her to be health and strong. If you do anything just before flower or during stretch you will slow her down dramatically.

If so, then I guess you'll use the new growth from the stretch to fill the middle holes of your doughnut, and the lengthening long branches to spread wider and let new growth on them fill the outer holes beyond the ring of the doughnut? Also, once the plant is done stretching are you done tucking? Or will you stop before the stretch is over once everything is even in like ten days and let it grow up above the screen a little bit for a few days to get some length above the screen?

You are correct; the doughnut/halo shape will fill in by it's self with new growth, and yes, buds. The halo just facilitates making a square out of a circle.

Tucking- let me put in this way you can if you want, but the right tucking allows for maximum bud-age. Just look at her you will be able to tell if you should tuck or not.

Stop tucking after you have good bud development.

Hope this helps.

edit: spell check doesn't understand me.

 

[Tokin Roll]

The update above was not how it typed it and couldn't fix it.

So the first image is my chicken scratch in my notebook.

Since it's a three day update I will date the images for growth development.

8-20

8-20a

8-21

8-22

8-22a

This morning.

Let the fun begin.

edit: tonight I will take a profile image, to show current height of the canopy.

 

[Jon]

How's the weather been on your piece of this rock?

Has everything pasted?

yes, the net should be full after the stretch period, and then it's all about bud building.



The only thing I did with this one was top after the 6th node, and 3 plan trims, 2 on bottom and one on top, that's all.

The bending only comes into play when getting ready to place under the net. And figure height of net.



A net with small opening is how I do it. I use about 3 inch opening for better control.

A week before you go into flower cycle stop doing everything. You want her to be health and strong. If you do anything just before flower or during stretch you will slow her down dramatically.


You are correct; the doughnut/halo shape will fill in by it's self with new growth, and yes, buds. The halo just facilitates making a square out of a circle.

Tucking- let me put in this way you can if you want, but the right tucking allows for maximum bud-age. Just look at her you will be able to tell if you should tuck or not.

Stop tucking after you have good bud development.

Hope this helps.

edit: spell check doesn't understand me.

It does, and thanks. I didn't realize you tuck all the way till you have good bud development.

 

[Tokin Roll]

It's really not much long than the stretch.
Once the stretch is over bud development is fast.

I am currently testing @Blue Planet Nutrients, and I can only try to tell you how much I like them. Their feed schedule is so spot on and ph balanced, I think I am doing something wrong, because I am not doing anything. I don't know a lot about their background, but I believe they are drawing there nutrients from multiple sources. This is not a bad thing it is a good thing to keep a stable solution and not have nutrient burn.

The ph, what can I say, I am not doing anything, again. Gradual raise correlating with ppm drop.

I am a believer.

Tok..

 

[StoneOtter]

How's the weather been on your piece of this rock?

Wet, warm and stormy this week. My place isn't suffering though. Lucky!

 

[Tokin Roll]

Time for an update again.

The Blues Brother are sucking up the solution in the amount of 3 gallons in three days. Only feeding cal-mag and seaweed mix in between solution change, which tonight will be another. I will be changing my solution every 3 to 4 days while in flower. Mainly to keep the nutrient level high (ppm's) and drift down. Once below 900 ppm's I will change the solution again.

Enough of that, time for the images.

That's all folk's.

Stay safe, and grow well my friends,

Tok..

 

[Tokin Roll]

I found this link in my reading, and it is pretty much how I do a scrog.

I added in to my signature also.

Expert SCROG Grow!

Hello all. This post originated at a friend's old site (now defunct). The Scrog Method So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method...

www.420magazine.com

Tok..

 

[Jon]

I found this link in my reading, and it is pretty much how I do a scrog.

I added in to my signature also.

Expert SCROG Grow!

Hello all. This post originated at a friend's old site (now defunct). The Scrog Method So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method...

www.420magazine.com

Tok..

Another brilliant post. Thanks man, so educational, and the dated timeline photos tell the story very clearly. So I noticed a couple things about your scrog that I want to ask about.

1. I notice you have tons of big fan leaves all pointing down under the canopy. I assume they are down cuz they aren't getting light, since they're all perfectly healthy. So is this because you are tucking so that only the top node of a cola is above the screen? (Thus all those big leaves would of course be under the canopy) It seems even from the canopy height shot that you are taking care to not let them get taller above the screen that the one node or so.
2. If that is indeed the case, I also notice that none of your colas are where I found several of mine when I tried a scrog last time, ie, in between tucks and held perfectly horizontally under a cross of strings or whatever. I guess the question is, are you waiting to move a cola to the next square until it has enough stem length that you can move it one square over, cleanly, and have it straight up in the square like that? I was tucking like every four hours so NOTHING was ever above the screen, and clearly, at least looking at yours, this was not quite or at all correct.

Hope those questions aren't too amateur hour.

Thanks.

 

[Tokin Roll]

What's happening @Jon

Very observant of you on the fan leaves. I'll get to that.

First the post isn't the same way I do it, but close, and I am always open to learn new things. (1) I do trim fan leaves, but only to expose new growth, When you do this during flower care is needed so not to stress the plant.
Tonight I will be trimming some fan leaves, but when you scrog you will always have leaves hanging below the canopy. You want the buds to grow straight up and not be blocked. The reason for specific trimming.

(2) When scroging cola's are not in one location, there everywhere. Your net is basically set by the time bud formation starts, after that it is all up ward growth. Then you want to trim all the leaches off. Leaches are most like only going to be popcorn crap.

Scroging takes trail and error to learn it right.
I can put you on the path and then you have to decide where to go.

Tok..

Hope those questions aren't too amateur hour.

The question not ask is armature.

 

[Tokin Roll]

Will it's that time again.

Today is week one of flower (7) ; two weeks to go. The Blues Brothers has been just to easy to grow. The only problem I have is keeping her feed. In a 24 hour period she will drink at least a gallon of cal-mag and seaweed and drop anywhere from 250 - 300 or so ppm's. It is a good challenge to keep the ppm's over 1500.

Well see what she doing next week at this time.

The scrog net is coming along as expected, about the only thing above the net is the new growth that is not long enough to make the nest section of net. This is why I like openings that are 2 or 3 inches. The way she is feeding this week should prove to be a busy one next week.

The images are from 8 -24 to today; one at lights on and one at lights off. More or less.

That's all folk's.

Stay safe, and grow well my friends,

Tok..

 

[Jon]

What's happening @Jon

Very observant of you on the fan leaves. I'll get to that.

First the post isn't the same way I do it, but close, and I am always open to learn new things. (1) I do trim fan leaves, but only to expose new growth, When you do this during flower care is needed so not to stress the plant.
Tonight I will be trimming some fan leaves, but when you scrog you will always have leaves hanging below the canopy. You want the buds to grow straight up and not be blocked. The reason for specific trimming.

(2) When scroging cola's are not in one location, there everywhere. Your net is basically set by the time bud formation starts, after that it is all up ward growth. Then you want to trim all the leaches off. Leaches are most like only going to be popcorn crap.

Scroging takes trail and error to learn it right.
I can put you on the path and then you have to decide where to go.

Tok..

Hope those questions aren't too amateur hour.

The question not ask is armature.

Thanks very much. Gorgeous plant and scrog.

 

[Tokin Roll]

Thanks @Jon

I'm still working to fill this net and push the walls, but I must say she is coming along nicely.

Tok..

 

[Dusty Kiefers]

Hey Tok..
Looking smashing,
I love blueplanetnutrients. Been using them for years now.
The owner went to Texas A&M one of the biggest agricultural universities in the U.S.

 

[Dragoond2]

Growing nicely man, I was able to flip to flower almost 2 weeks ago now and using a scrog for once as well.

 

[Tokin Roll]

Nice garden.

Your technique @Dragoond2 Is somewhat different than mine. My plant is only about 3 inches above the net, until the end of flower. Then I let her go wild building buds.

Currently, she is going through just over a gallon of solution in a 24 hour period. I expect this to increase to almost 2 or more gallons a day, before she done. Don't forget this is one plant also.

Tok..

 

[Dragoond2]

Ya @Tokin Roll my 2x4 is a bit over crowed with 6 clones I tucked as much as I felt I could. I'm hoping the stretch is over lol I'll have to move equipment around to raise the lights got a fan behind the lights to keep it cool. I think I may have to keep it at 2-4 plants in there. I can't do single plant runs I want some variety lol. But you are crushing it can't wait to see the finish.

 

[Tokin Roll]

I just got a 2x4 recently, for just that reason. I am so use to playing in the 4x4, I feel cramped in the 2x4 and the height is only 5 foot. Sometime, I need to pay attention when I buy things.

Right now, I have two 7 gallon pots waiting for tenants in my 2x4. I believe in the 2 sq. ft. rule in tents. I also know some growers that use three 5 gallon pots, it's up to you on how comfortable you are working on your ladies'. I don't like my buds touching each other unless they are pushing the wall of my tent.

 

[Tokin Roll]

I was reading thread from some about which gets added first in a two part nutrient line.
I when back in my old notes and found this.


Preparing and adding nutrients. Hydro

Just thought I would post this up... was doing some reading and stumbled across an online article that I found years ago that really helped me understand who & why to add my nutrients & additives in a particular order.

It’s not the be-all-end-all, do this or you will fail type of tip because there are so many ways to successfully grow our plant its retarded, but it’s something to stimulate your cerebral cortex.

Making up your nutrient solution is a regular job for hydroponic growers – and most of us probably think we know what we’re doing – right? Just like how most of us are familiar with the phrase, “falling at the last hurdle”! Because unless you know exactly how to deploy your hydroponic nutrients, that’s exactly what you could be doing.

Shortcuts are all too tempting to fall into when you’ve been growing for a while. And if you’re not making up your nutrient solution properly you could well be impeding the performance of your nutrients. This is particularly important for growers using multi-part nutrients (e.g., two-parts and three-parts) as these can be more complex than many gardeners think.

Multi-part nutrient guidelines

1. Do not combine concentrated nutrients in too little water.

Think about it for a second. Two and three-part nutrients come in separate “parts” for a reason! If they come into contact with each other when still concentrated (or in too little water) you will see a white precipitate form and, depending on the formulation, this can happen well within a minute or so.

Try this for yourself – mix an equal volume of each part in a glass, undiluted. You’ll quickly see precipitate start to form. The majority of the precipitate is typically calcium sulfate. Now, add more water and see if it will dissolve. The longer you delay dilution, the more difficult (or impossible) dissolution becomes.

Your plants can only use nutrients that are fully dissolved in the water. So, all that precipitate represents food that your plants can no longer access. Along with poor pH control, this is a cause of the white precipitate within the body of the nutrient. Therefore, to prevent this, always add the majority of water before combining nutrients.

Additionally, always stir well before each subsequent part is added. Note that the source of white precipitate above the water line, on the surface of media and equipment (e.g., clay pebbles) is salt deposition from evaporation. Notably, the amount of precipitation from this source is greater at higher (EC) nutrient concentration.



2. Which comes first: A or B?

My advice is that you should always add the part containing the phosphate first.

This is because the addition sequence of each nutrient ‘part’ can affect nutrient stability, particularly if your water has high alkalinity. “Alkalinity” (bicarbonate & carbonate) is the component of natural waters that causes high ph.

Adding the nutrient dose to high alkalinity water can decrease the stability of several nutrient species (including calcium, sulfate, iron, copper, manganese, zinc). Therefore, rather than trying to pre-adjust the pH of the water (often a very difficult task – pH adjustment is better done after all nutrients and additives have been added) it is preferable to first add that part of the nutrient that lowers pH the most.

This is usually the part that contains the phosphate. In two-part nutrients this is usually part “B”. So, there you have it. “B” comes before “A” after all! However, make sure you check with your particular brand. Note that the “part” without any phosphate will normally have relatively little impact on ph.

Secondly, it usually contains the iron which is highly unstable at pH levels much above ~6.5.

Note, in three-part nutrients the phosphate is sometimes dispersed across two bottles. Therefore, if you really want to be accurate, determine which contains the highest concentration of phosphate, and add that first.

3. Add equal amounts of each part.

Avoid “roughly measuring” out the nutrient dose. An excess of one nutrient species does not compensate for deficiencies in another. In the case of a two-part, ‘under’ dosing part ‘B’ for example, could cause a deficiency in over half the nutrients required (i.e., P, K, S and all of the trace elements excluding iron).

This problem is compounded with two and three-parts because the dose volumes for each part will be roughly one-half to one-third (respectively) of what it would otherwise be if using a one-part. Therefore, without appropriate measuring equipment, when small tank volumes are being used the dosing error can be significant.

To some growers, the additional complexity of two and three-part formulations is an interesting challenge. To others, who want to make their lives a little simpler, the idea of dosing using multiple parts isn’t so appealing. Certainly, using a high quality one-part formula readily ensures an optimal balance of nutrients and, as a result, one-part nutrient products are increasing in appeal among growers.

Whatever type of nutrient you prefer, you should always follow the following dosing guidelines:
➢ Thoroughly stir the nutrient.
Always stir immediately after the addition of nutrient, additives or top-up water. Doing so will eliminate high zonal concentrations of the less soluble nutrient species. Further, it removes zones of extreme pH (either high or low), thereby preventing the destabilization of nutrients that are unstable outside of the optimum pH window of 5.0-6.5.
➢ Be diligent with ph.

This is probably the most crucial area of nutrient management.

➢ Be cautious when using additives with a high ph.

I don’t mean to be alarmist here as it’s important to note that essentially all additives will affect nutrient pH at least slightly. The best technique to adopt with those that elevate pH significantly (e.g., silica, PK additives) is to add them to the water and adjust the pH down to ~6 prior to adding the nutrient.

Another less preferred but common alternative is to pre dilute the additive in a separate volume of raw water prior to adding to the nutrient solution, then quickly lower the pH to below 6.5 once this solution is added. Note, a white cloudy precipitate (calcium sulfate) may form when the pre-diluted additive initially merges with the nutrient solution. However, because the initial particle size of the precipitate is small, it will usually re-dissolve if the pH is immediately re-adjusted

Hope this helps.

Stay safe, and Grow well my friends,

Tok..

 

[Rexer]

I was reading thread from some about which gets added first in a two part nutrient line.
I when back in my old notes and found this.


Preparing and adding nutrients. Hydro

Just thought I would post this up... was doing some reading and stumbled across an online article that I found years ago that really helped me understand who & why to add my nutrients & additives in a particular order.

It’s not the be-all-end-all, do this or you will fail type of tip because there are so many ways to successfully grow our plant its retarded, but it’s something to stimulate your cerebral cortex.

Making up your nutrient solution is a regular job for hydroponic growers – and most of us probably think we know what we’re doing – right? Just like how most of us are familiar with the phrase, “falling at the last hurdle”! Because unless you know exactly how to deploy your hydroponic nutrients, that’s exactly what you could be doing.

Shortcuts are all too tempting to fall into when you’ve been growing for a while. And if you’re not making up your nutrient solution properly you could well be impeding the performance of your nutrients. This is particularly important for growers using multi-part nutrients (e.g., two-parts and three-parts) as these can be more complex than many gardeners think.

Multi-part nutrient guidelines

1. Do not combine concentrated nutrients in too little water.

Think about it for a second. Two and three-part nutrients come in separate “parts” for a reason! If they come into contact with each other when still concentrated (or in too little water) you will see a white precipitate form and, depending on the formulation, this can happen well within a minute or so.

Try this for yourself – mix an equal volume of each part in a glass, undiluted. You’ll quickly see precipitate start to form. The majority of the precipitate is typically calcium sulfate. Now, add more water and see if it will dissolve. The longer you delay dilution, the more difficult (or impossible) dissolution becomes.

Your plants can only use nutrients that are fully dissolved in the water. So, all that precipitate represents food that your plants can no longer access. Along with poor pH control, this is a cause of the white precipitate within the body of the nutrient. Therefore, to prevent this, always add the majority of water before combining nutrients.

Additionally, always stir well before each subsequent part is added. Note that the source of white precipitate above the water line, on the surface of media and equipment (e.g., clay pebbles) is salt deposition from evaporation. Notably, the amount of precipitation from this source is greater at higher (EC) nutrient concentration.



2. Which comes first: A or B?

My advice is that you should always add the part containing the phosphate first.

This is because the addition sequence of each nutrient ‘part’ can affect nutrient stability, particularly if your water has high alkalinity. “Alkalinity” (bicarbonate & carbonate) is the component of natural waters that causes high ph.

Adding the nutrient dose to high alkalinity water can decrease the stability of several nutrient species (including calcium, sulfate, iron, copper, manganese, zinc). Therefore, rather than trying to pre-adjust the pH of the water (often a very difficult task – pH adjustment is better done after all nutrients and additives have been added) it is preferable to first add that part of the nutrient that lowers pH the most.

This is usually the part that contains the phosphate. In two-part nutrients this is usually part “B”. So, there you have it. “B” comes before “A” after all! However, make sure you check with your particular brand. Note that the “part” without any phosphate will normally have relatively little impact on ph.

Secondly, it usually contains the iron which is highly unstable at pH levels much above ~6.5.

Note, in three-part nutrients the phosphate is sometimes dispersed across two bottles. Therefore, if you really want to be accurate, determine which contains the highest concentration of phosphate, and add that first.

3. Add equal amounts of each part.

Avoid “roughly measuring” out the nutrient dose. An excess of one nutrient species does not compensate for deficiencies in another. In the case of a two-part, ‘under’ dosing part ‘B’ for example, could cause a deficiency in over half the nutrients required (i.e., P, K, S and all of the trace elements excluding iron).

This problem is compounded with two and three-parts because the dose volumes for each part will be roughly one-half to one-third (respectively) of what it would otherwise be if using a one-part. Therefore, without appropriate measuring equipment, when small tank volumes are being used the dosing error can be significant.

To some growers, the additional complexity of two and three-part formulations is an interesting challenge. To others, who want to make their lives a little simpler, the idea of dosing using multiple parts isn’t so appealing. Certainly, using a high quality one-part formula readily ensures an optimal balance of nutrients and, as a result, one-part nutrient products are increasing in appeal among growers.

Whatever type of nutrient you prefer, you should always follow the following dosing guidelines:
➢ Thoroughly stir the nutrient.
Always stir immediately after the addition of nutrient, additives or top-up water. Doing so will eliminate high zonal concentrations of the less soluble nutrient species. Further, it removes zones of extreme pH (either high or low), thereby preventing the destabilization of nutrients that are unstable outside of the optimum pH window of 5.0-6.5.
➢ Be diligent with ph.

This is probably the most crucial area of nutrient management.

➢ Be cautious when using additives with a high ph.

I don’t mean to be alarmist here as it’s important to note that essentially all additives will affect nutrient pH at least slightly. The best technique to adopt with those that elevate pH significantly (e.g., silica, PK additives) is to add them to the water and adjust the pH down to ~6 prior to adding the nutrient.

Another less preferred but common alternative is to pre dilute the additive in a separate volume of raw water prior to adding to the nutrient solution, then quickly lower the pH to below 6.5 once this solution is added. Note, a white cloudy precipitate (calcium sulfate) may form when the pre-diluted additive initially merges with the nutrient solution. However, because the initial particle size of the precipitate is small, it will usually re-dissolve if the pH is immediately re-adjusted

Hope this helps.

Stay safe, and Grow well my friends,

Tok..

Great handy write up Tok, and a good read/review for anyone that mixes nutes. Probably one of the better descriptions I've read.

 

[Dragoond2]

I was reading thread from some about which gets added first in a two part nutrient line.
I when back in my old notes and found this.


Preparing and adding nutrients. Hydro

Just thought I would post this up... was doing some reading and stumbled across an online article that I found years ago that really helped me understand who & why to add my nutrients & additives in a particular order.

It’s not the be-all-end-all, do this or you will fail type of tip because there are so many ways to successfully grow our plant its retarded, but it’s something to stimulate your cerebral cortex.

Making up your nutrient solution is a regular job for hydroponic growers – and most of us probably think we know what we’re doing – right? Just like how most of us are familiar with the phrase, “falling at the last hurdle”! Because unless you know exactly how to deploy your hydroponic nutrients, that’s exactly what you could be doing.

Shortcuts are all too tempting to fall into when you’ve been growing for a while. And if you’re not making up your nutrient solution properly you could well be impeding the performance of your nutrients. This is particularly important for growers using multi-part nutrients (e.g., two-parts and three-parts) as these can be more complex than many gardeners think.

Multi-part nutrient guidelines

1. Do not combine concentrated nutrients in too little water.

Think about it for a second. Two and three-part nutrients come in separate “parts” for a reason! If they come into contact with each other when still concentrated (or in too little water) you will see a white precipitate form and, depending on the formulation, this can happen well within a minute or so.

Try this for yourself – mix an equal volume of each part in a glass, undiluted. You’ll quickly see precipitate start to form. The majority of the precipitate is typically calcium sulfate. Now, add more water and see if it will dissolve. The longer you delay dilution, the more difficult (or impossible) dissolution becomes.

Your plants can only use nutrients that are fully dissolved in the water. So, all that precipitate represents food that your plants can no longer access. Along with poor pH control, this is a cause of the white precipitate within the body of the nutrient. Therefore, to prevent this, always add the majority of water before combining nutrients.

Additionally, always stir well before each subsequent part is added. Note that the source of white precipitate above the water line, on the surface of media and equipment (e.g., clay pebbles) is salt deposition from evaporation. Notably, the amount of precipitation from this source is greater at higher (EC) nutrient concentration.



2. Which comes first: A or B?

My advice is that you should always add the part containing the phosphate first.

This is because the addition sequence of each nutrient ‘part’ can affect nutrient stability, particularly if your water has high alkalinity. “Alkalinity” (bicarbonate & carbonate) is the component of natural waters that causes high ph.

Adding the nutrient dose to high alkalinity water can decrease the stability of several nutrient species (including calcium, sulfate, iron, copper, manganese, zinc). Therefore, rather than trying to pre-adjust the pH of the water (often a very difficult task – pH adjustment is better done after all nutrients and additives have been added) it is preferable to first add that part of the nutrient that lowers pH the most.

This is usually the part that contains the phosphate. In two-part nutrients this is usually part “B”. So, there you have it. “B” comes before “A” after all! However, make sure you check with your particular brand. Note that the “part” without any phosphate will normally have relatively little impact on ph.

Secondly, it usually contains the iron which is highly unstable at pH levels much above ~6.5.

Note, in three-part nutrients the phosphate is sometimes dispersed across two bottles. Therefore, if you really want to be accurate, determine which contains the highest concentration of phosphate, and add that first.

3. Add equal amounts of each part.

Avoid “roughly measuring” out the nutrient dose. An excess of one nutrient species does not compensate for deficiencies in another. In the case of a two-part, ‘under’ dosing part ‘B’ for example, could cause a deficiency in over half the nutrients required (i.e., P, K, S and all of the trace elements excluding iron).

This problem is compounded with two and three-parts because the dose volumes for each part will be roughly one-half to one-third (respectively) of what it would otherwise be if using a one-part. Therefore, without appropriate measuring equipment, when small tank volumes are being used the dosing error can be significant.

To some growers, the additional complexity of two and three-part formulations is an interesting challenge. To others, who want to make their lives a little simpler, the idea of dosing using multiple parts isn’t so appealing. Certainly, using a high quality one-part formula readily ensures an optimal balance of nutrients and, as a result, one-part nutrient products are increasing in appeal among growers.

Whatever type of nutrient you prefer, you should always follow the following dosing guidelines:
➢ Thoroughly stir the nutrient.
Always stir immediately after the addition of nutrient, additives or top-up water. Doing so will eliminate high zonal concentrations of the less soluble nutrient species. Further, it removes zones of extreme pH (either high or low), thereby preventing the destabilization of nutrients that are unstable outside of the optimum pH window of 5.0-6.5.
➢ Be diligent with ph.

This is probably the most crucial area of nutrient management.

➢ Be cautious when using additives with a high ph.

I don’t mean to be alarmist here as it’s important to note that essentially all additives will affect nutrient pH at least slightly. The best technique to adopt with those that elevate pH significantly (e.g., silica, PK additives) is to add them to the water and adjust the pH down to ~6 prior to adding the nutrient.

Another less preferred but common alternative is to pre dilute the additive in a separate volume of raw water prior to adding to the nutrient solution, then quickly lower the pH to below 6.5 once this solution is added. Note, a white cloudy precipitate (calcium sulfate) may form when the pre-diluted additive initially merges with the nutrient solution. However, because the initial particle size of the precipitate is small, it will usually re-dissolve if the pH is immediately re-adjusted

Hope this helps.

Stay safe, and Grow well my friends,

Tok..

Omg knowledge bomb just dropped lol great stuff I started with The Go Box there was so much to use at different amounts at different stages. I started to hate feeding lol don't think I'll ever go back to multi part nutes.