Making Your Own Nutrient Concentrates

tokeycones said:
My final attempt at getting a manual solution with my bottles. Please tell me this is ok for where i'm at haha
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tokeycones said:
Yea it was a major headache lol, I came up with this manually for now, what you think?
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They both look good, though I liked the first one better than your second one. Be watchful for a copper deficiency and try to figure out what your remedies are if you get one. I also believe your K is running a little deficient, that will be easier to fix. Look for a seaweed foliar product or any product with K2O.
 
One thing I’ve been meaning to ask. Skybound I think you’re doing daily or multiple daily feedings? And I assume Tokeycones is too in coco. I normally feed once a week in soilless. Just wondering how that might change feeding levels, if at all.
 
Coolbananas said:
Loving your work skybound and here’s the link.

Beneficial Additives In Hydroponics | Manic Botanix

Beneficial Additives in Hydroponics I have previously stressed the point that plants will achieve optimum growth only after they have been provided with an ideal environment (temp, light…
medteknutrients.com.au
Used to be manic botanix. It was that site where all of my early reading and learning came from. great reading and lots of info on that site. The amino product I use is this

Amino-Max™

A potent amino acid fertiliser for protein building, immune support, plant growth promotion and enhanced quality and shelf life. ACO organic certified.
shop.nutri-tech.com.au
It’s a quality product as is all of the products from nutri tech. Other than my raw salts everything else comes from there. Lots more info there too. They even have a chart for cannabis here
Check out the blogs and stuff it’s good reading.
I’m picking up this shortly and it’s been just what I’ve been looking for. It’s got all the trimmings

Brix-Fix™

Cost-effective yield builder for all crop production (fruit, vegetables, cereals) in a convenient, concentrated liquid. Includes triacontanol, trace minerals and biostimulants to promote beneficial soil biology and encourage strong, healthy growth.
shop.nutri-tech.com.au
Lots and lots of information for high brix particularly soil growing.
You’ve got the NH4 going on now which is awesome. I reckon it helps a lot with frostiness too but you’ll see what I mean. Regarding the myco here’s the link

Beneficial Bacteria and Fungi in Hydroponics | Page 2 | Manic Botanix

Bennies (Beneficial bacteria and Fungi) in hydroponics. This article goes into great detail on benefical bacteria and/or fungi use in hydroponics.
medteknutrients.com.au
I’m not sure what myco strains are created from tea but in hydro anything above 20ppm of P makes the mycos a hindrance. We supply plenty of P in our solution so no need. High brix in soil different story with mycos but better off without in hydro. Trichodermia is really good though. Can’t wait to see your findings man, I’ll just keep throwing my things I find at you while I watch you work. Great job
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I'll be slowly reading the fungi and microbe links to have the best chance at understanding and remembering as this is the info I have been seeking for months and might help me figure out if high brix in hydro is possible or not. Either way, my primary goal is to know what the perfect nutrient regimen is for cannabis at the lowest possible EC, producing high brix was still a highly sought after secondary goal of mine. None the less, I want to fully comprehend those 2 links (T/Y!). I noticed in the brix-fix, the primary active ingredient is triacontanol. I also use tria, but I got a shit load of the powder that is used to make the alcohol that is used to make the solution. It's cute that they changed it from a PGR to a PGP on page one of the PDF. FYI, "PGR" is mentally associated to Monsanto-like plant steroids and as such, ALL PRGs are thus considered sacrilege. I bet the High Brix community would blow a gasket if they saw that PDF, lol. What I did learn from it, is that other things can be added into the spray. Also, reading through the PDF for the AminoMax, it seems the primary purpose for it is as a foliar spray which then tells me I can use mine in foliar sprays so maybe I will have better luck with mine in a foliar spray than as shown in my veg res?

Amino Snot.jpg
 
tokeycones said:
Ok thanks, I'm in Coco Coir and i saw you put somewhere no higher than 130 K?
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Weaselcracker said:
One thing I’ve been meaning to ask. Skybound I think you’re doing daily or multiple daily feedings? And I assume Tokeycones is too in coco. I normally feed once a week in soilless. Just wondering how that might change feeding levels, if at all.
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When I first got into salts, I also recently figured out Hydro Buddy so I wanted to dial in the Jack's 321 feed schedule better to highlight certain elements at different phases of growth. I had to join RIU to ask questions of people talking about that stuff. The grower "im4satori" was helping me feel my way around and through a lot of Q&A, I was able to walk away with these ranges,

Veg Ranges
N 110 - 120
P 30 - 40
K 120 - 130
Ca 80 - 90
Mg 40 - 50
Fe 1.3 - 2
---
Bloom Ranges
N 65-90 (never less than half of K)
P 40-65 (40ppm gives P def)
K 130-150 (130 max for coco)(GH=200)
Ca 65-90 (GH=115.575)
Mg 40-50 (GH=66.685)
S 20-80
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FWIW, in rock wool (feeding 1-3 times daily, plus EWC tea drenches), I started targeting inside of those ranges and have been inching my way higher ever since. As it relates to K, I started at 150, that was def, went to 170 and the def abated, but went to 180 and that looked better. I then went up to 200 and that was competing with Ca so I backed it back down to the 170 range, well 160 in mid bloom, then 190 in late bloom.
 
Now having to consider it for a moment, I remember that coco is a calcium magnet and it robs your solutions of calcium. Potassium in higher concentrations makes the roots take up less calcium. Doc Bud's brix injects 18x more calcium than potassium into his amendments. All of these indicators imply that high K will over compete with Ca for (osmotic dominance?). I believe in rockwool, I am close to the ideal ratio of K:Ca 160:120 as my only visual Ca damage is the slightest of tip bun at the top set of each branch.

Cal and P Def.jpg
 
Skybound said:
At some point you're going to need to supplement your macros so try to locate the following products;

Calcium Nitrate
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That seems to be a good product for gardeners who use coco coir as their substrate, to use after initially hydrating/rinsing/rinsing/rinsing the coir, as a pre-soak. The calcium ions are supposed to replace the sodium/potassium(?). ions that the stuff tends to arrive loaded with. Appears to help keep the medium from "stealing calcium," so to speak.

Or... something like that, IDK. It's cheap, too. I think I paid $4.99(US) for either a five- or ten-pound sack of the stuff at the end of my local gardening season a couple years ago. Since it's a dry nutrient, that's all product - IOW, no "water weight" - and it's quite stable in storage (like they always say, "Keep your powder dry," ;) ).

I suddenly remembered that I had bookmarked a link to a dry nutrient supplier a while back.


So I hunted it down, visited the website - and on the right side of the screen, under "Important Links," saw that there is a link to the Hydrobuddy application, lol. Also an online nutrient calculator webpage written by Jorge Menendez years ago. And a link to the Salt Smarts webpage, which is another online calculator gizmo that appears to be a little more ("Stats: There are 73 users that have stored 12 Water Source Profiles, have created 27 Fertilizer Profiles, tracked over 140 revisions to those profiles, all sharing a database with 44 different salts.") IDK, haven't had time to do more than just glance at the various main webpages for a few seconds each and thing, "Wow, there are tools all over the Internet for creating one's own plant nutrient recipes."

Random useless factoid #137,492: I just calculated it, and my 39"x39" Mars-Hydro grow tent's area is 0.0242482% of an acre :rofl:. So every time I see a bag of {something} that states it'll treat an acre, I know that it'll last... a while. (Especially since the entire tent isn't covered with growing medium.)

My yard is a quarter-acre. Which always seems small, until I get behind on the mowing. I wonder how much fluoride it'd take to hose it all down? My buddy used to write messages in people's lawns with a solution of the stuff in a pump-up sprayer - and the messages would be there for the rest of the year <insert mad scientist cackle here>.
 
TorturedSoul said:
That seems to be a good product for gardeners who use coco coir as their substrate, to use after initially hydrating/rinsing/rinsing/rinsing the coir, as a pre-soak. The calcium ions are supposed to replace the sodium/potassium(?). ions that the stuff tends to arrive loaded with. Appears to help keep the medium from "stealing calcium," so to speak.
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Cal Nite is the primary "Grow" ingredient in EVERY liquid nutrient brand. There are other ingredients such as Mag Nite and some ammonium products as well, but all of these complexes can be concentrated individually into their own stock solution and used to create custom final solutions as desired by the grower. For every 1 gram of salt that is concentrated, there are 10ml of RO, so when using Hydro Buddy, it will tell me I need X.YY grams of Cal Nite, or whatever, I just shift the decimal place over one position and that's how many ml I need to put into the res. This enables me to achieve my targeted PPM with precision.
 
It has been shown that as little as 5% of the total N in solution
as NH4+ in a flowing nutrient solution system is sufficient. A higher percentage
will be needed for aerated standing nutrient solution systems, in which up to
25% of the total N should be NH4+ in order to obtain the same stimulating
effect on NO3– uptake. Variations of these suggested percentages may be
required, depending on plant species, stage of plant growth, nutrient solution
flow rate, and other factors.
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tokeycones said:
is this ok for veg? Also it would be great if someone could explain to me the relevance of"total cost" thanks :)
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Your mix looks great, weak on the K, but everything else is Johnny on the spot! Total cost a means of tracking inventory and allows users to factor in the cost when creating your custom substances.
 
any soluble source of K2O will work, I just suggested soluble seaweed because that's all I could think of that I expect would be fairly easy to locate down there.
 
I’m guessing he’s going to say yes. I see potassium sulphate there in the HB database.
Glad you got this working TC. It’s inspiring me to start buying raw nutrients as well.
 
tokeycones said:
ahhh i see, So this is cheap and literally a 1 minute walk would this work is sais water soluble? i take it its 42 K and 18 S? I have room for a bit more sulfur so i think that would be good
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yeah, that will work and the extra sulfur will be greatly appreciated when your smoke tastes sweeter.
 
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