In my estimation, you're over feeding at 4.5g Part A and 3g Part B per gallon.
I'd drop back to 3.7g Part A and 2.5g Part B per gallon (which is actually the recommended amounts by Peters/Jacks). I would not add any Epsom Salts at all. There's already plenty Magnesium and Sulfur in Part A and there's no need for any additional. The resulting mix would look like:
Edit 1: sorry for the long ass post again and again
Thank you for making those charts for me. They are much cleaner then excel spread sheets and more presentable and easier to read quickly with accuracy. It’s a shame my posts aren’t as good and tend to drag on forever on tangents lol
Couple questions on your post. For the jacks recipe, is it 3.7/2.5 now? I was always under the impression it was 3.6/2.4/1.2 per gal? I’ve heard jacks say 1.1g in a video recipe and then publish 1.2g elsewhere and now we are creeping up a little more. So is the “correct” amount of Epsom actually 1.25g to keep an even 321 ratio assuming one is going to use it? Or is the 321 ratio just a general idea and not exact? Should the 3.7g actually be 3.75g? I think I’m just misunderstanding the whole ratio and grams per gallon relationship and then on top of that there is a different numerical value for the actual npk ratio. Idk maybe I’m overthinking it.
Everything I’ve been doing is just based off making sure my ratio is 3 parts, 2 parts, 1 part. So based my mix on 4.5/3g to get my desired ec as it’s always been my comfort zone. I’m not against accepting this as lockout. You’re correct in your opinion, i AM indeed a chronic over feeder, actually on purpose though, because I cycle my moms a ton due to little space and lots of varieties. I find my clones stay much greener and healthier after cutting and as a side effect root earlier and then take off like a freight train.
i am going to make a test I think. I am going to mix up the “HG Jacks Hack” formula I came up with based off the lab test information on the manicbotanix website that I’ve been meaning to try out but never did cause I’m a bottle baby
(shout out that dude, holy epic amount of work and extremely detailed). Then I can correct my Jacks mix using the 3.7/2.5 ratio here and test them against each other see if I’m screwing something up here.
These are examples of my HG cocos maintained plants under 246w of t5 retrofitted leds in the closet and a 630de cmh in the tent. The og came from the led closet as a medium aged mom, the shorter affy type with the odd leaves came from the tent prior to flower. Same food, just whatever 9-10ml per gallon and tap (these particular examples but I’m back on ro now). Sometimes 2.2 and other times 2.4-6 because my tap water moves over 0.3 points but I usually start high 2.2-2.3 was regular at the same range and add water during the week which dilutes it but spends most time above 2.0. When it gets to like 2.0 I start looking into correcting which means I stop diluting. If you guys are on bean basement some of this may look familiar but yes this is my old baseline. Some may say overfed but I like the safety margin I keep on them. I need to get my jacks like this before I feel comfortable to flower again and then I can improve from there as I understand this ratio puzzle we’re all playing with.
Edit 2: The “Ghost1PureKush” in the blue 18oz solo cup looks dark but it’s not it’s just the camera flash and a dark ass kitchen I don’t let light into. I think it was 46-48” tall plant (counter top is almost 3’) in a 18oz solo cup eating tons of HG under 246w of led in a closet lol. Coco and HG and tap or Ro/calmag are a match made in heaven lol.
Edit 3: What about K to Mg ratio? I notice HG cocos is a 5.9:1 k:mg ratio, Athena is a 5.5:1 for veg formula and 6.6:1 for flower, jacks is….3.4:1 w/o Epsom and even worse with it. Mg and K don’t play well together. Do I need more k to balance the mg and ca? HG added 39% more K to their coco recipe (now at 251ppm at 10ml/g) and lowered their Mg by 23% and their Ca by 14.5% when they revised their formula…my question is how much K does coco actually put out during breakdown??? I’m almost positive the whole “low k” coco fertilizer requirement is straight being misunderstood or misinterpreted for coco applications. My most flavorful, fattest most requested flower by probably a margin of 3:1 vs all my runs EVER, was the run fed contrary to the coco K argument. Granted that was flower and this is veg but HG uses the same formula for both… How can potassium build up in coco anyways when when we use ca and mg to displace k because they are double positive?? Is jacks displacing the already low amount of K (relative to known good coco formulas) with all that damn mg??? K is known for regulating transpiration…is this why we see coco grows with super dry looking buds and leaves in late in flower from K starvation? You know the type I’m talking about, the one no one knocks cause they like they guy but his weed is starting to fox tail and smokes black as hell lol. Canna had an interesting approach. They use SUPER LOW K (61ppm) but they also use 80ppm P which I BELIEVE is to force feed the plant Mg so it keeps away from the crazy small K supply and then they offer their Pk. Probably the only company actually using a PK correctly lol. What do you think??
Hope nobody gets pissed I can discuss this for days with 100 page posts. There’s nobody for me to talk to about this in real life lol.
