Making Your Own Nutrient Concentrates

oh ho ho ho... dutch has f'd me, yet again! femenized, my phat ash! well... i kicked the men out! and am going to sample their jizz and let atf ... f em all!!! one allergen, at a time. i can't wait to c ghost train haze & godfather og hump. people will bow to it! i can't even find a name for the strain, BUT I FOUND the search solution to "strongest strains in the known universe" and I'm going to make a porn with them! my kung foo, is strong!
 
lmao. my bad. shoot... I'm actually curious, myself.
 











handled. finally figured to get the 2 diff greens, together n pic. it's like i have dialup. jezuz.
 
I want what he’s smoking!
:laugh:
they make this fargin report button, way too easy to "accidentally bump". [pimp slaps blueballz]. ;D . seriously, though, i know I'm gettin/been old, but i dam near reported myself twice, already!
 
they make this fargin report button, way too easy to "accidentally bump". [pimp slaps blueballz]. ;D . seriously, though, i know I'm gettin/been old, but i dam near reported myself twice, already!

When you start a thread/journal, that's how you alert the moderator to finalize it. As to your grow, I don't see any severe problems, just minor this or that. What is the elemental values of your feed?
 
When you start a thread/journal, that's how you alert the moderator to finalize it. As to your grow, I don't see any severe problems, just minor this or that. What is the elemental values of your feed?

g.h. trio. various lvls, depending on necessity of space... currently in 300s. added 10ml gro, yesterday. have yet to do my chores, today. prolly up 30ppm... 12gal res. r.o., only. and recommended guard amts. will flush with final finish, 2wks and h2o, a 3rd. 2 days, aero flush, is nonsense. to smoke, after 3wks and at least a month in cvault- it's like breathing, but i only oil it, anyway... less chlorophyll, this way. still don't look anorexic, in 3wks, with aero. i never understood that. i do worse, anorexia wise, when I'm too sick to do my maintenance flush n time.
 
g.h. trio. various lvls, depending on necessity of space... currently in 300s. added 10ml gro, yesterday. have yet to do my chores, today. prolly up 30ppm... 12gal res. r.o., only. and recommended guard amts. will flush with final finish, 2wks and h2o, a 3rd. 2 days, aero flush, is nonsense. to smoke, after 3wks and at least a month in cvault- it's like breathing, but i only oil it, anyway... less chlorophyll, this way. still don't look anorexic, in 3wks, with aero. i never understood that. i do worse, anorexia wise, when I'm too sick to do my maintenance flush n time.
and i use 1/2/3, at this stage. hence the grow, addition tweak (still experimental, at this point, for me- i have too much left of the trio, to swap, NOW).
 
g.h. trio. various lvls, depending on necessity of space... currently in 300s. added 10ml gro, yesterday. have yet to do my chores, today. prolly up 30ppm... 12gal res. r.o., only. and recommended guard amts. will flush with final finish, 2wks and h2o, a 3rd. 2 days, aero flush, is nonsense. to smoke, after 3wks and at least a month in cvault- it's like breathing, but i only oil it, anyway... less chlorophyll, this way. still don't look anorexic, in 3wks, with aero. i never understood that. i do worse, anorexia wise, when I'm too sick to do my maintenance flush n time.

The subject of this thread is to use a nutrient calculator to calculate the elemental ppm of each element in your feed so we don't have to get hung up on what's in each bottle of various different nutrient manufacturers. If you have a spreadsheet to do all of the math that's cool, otherwise Hydro Buddy is the only other free app I know of that will empower you to enter all of the data from your GH bottles into the database, then tell the datatbase how much of each bottle you're considering, and it will tell you the levels of each element all combined. Then we as growers can focus on things like N, P, K, - Ca, Mg, S, --- Fe, Mn, B, Zn, Cu, Mo - Si and figure out what is ideal for cannabis, then later sativas and indicas.
 
The subject of this thread is to use a nutrient calculator to calculate the elemental ppm of each element in your feed so we don't have to get hung up on what's in each bottle of various different nutrient manufacturers. If you have a spreadsheet to do all of the math that's cool, otherwise Hydro Buddy is the only other free app I know of that will empower you to enter all of the data from your GH bottles into the database, then tell the datatbase how much of each bottle you're considering, and it will tell you the levels of each element all combined. Then we as growers can focus on things like N, P, K, - Ca, Mg, S, --- Fe, Mn, B, Zn, Cu, Mo - Si and figure out what is ideal for cannabis, then later sativas and indicas.
it's genius and very much appreciated
 
Hello Sky,
Am I correct in that your blend of ingredients or a blend you can create is the equivalent of the MC sample you had me order? I have began using the MC product and enjoy the way my plants have done since switching away from the high p Jack's that I was feeding them.

It occurred to me in the MRI tube yesterday that your recipe could be less expensive and living on a fixed income...
Please LMK
 
Hello Sky,
Am I correct in that your blend of ingredients or a blend you can create is the equivalent of the MC sample you had me order? I have began using the MC product and enjoy the way my plants have done since switching away from the high p Jack's that I was feeding them.

It occurred to me in the MRI tube yesterday that your recipe could be less expensive and living on a fixed income...
Please LMK

The ingredients I use are not the same ingredients that Greenleaf uses to make MC, so my emulated Megacrop that I'm using is exactly that. I mean my macros and micro targets are spot on with Megacrop, I am more or less using different ingredients to achieve the same result. In my opinion, Megacrop is so good that users would not likely want to deviate much and as such, would "likely" be best served to merely settle for Megacrop as Greenleaf makes it. It would only be more advantageous to use the salts that I use if you did intend to deviate or try other feed regimens. Because I am now transitioning to an emulated High Brix soil, It makes sense for me to have my collection of salts.

I won’t presume to answer for Sky, but MegaCrop is chelated with amino acids. This makes it quite unique, and you are unlikely to duplicate it at home with inorganic salts.

It was brought to my attention that most of the salts are still organic, or OMRI listed, but I personally do not get hung up on what is or isn't OMRI certified. Still though, MC is chelated with aminos, and my metals are chelated with EDTA or DTPA, both are organic acids. Though the aminos are not toxic to plants whereas the EDTA and DTPA are in high doses. To my knowledge, amino chelated metals will oxidize if made into a concentrate (what I do), but they are perfectly fine if left in powder form until use (what Greenleaf does).

At the end of it all, it will boil down to what you want to do regarding your formulations. I'm tickled pink at how well the Megacrop is formulated, especially the 19:1 NO3-:NH4+ ratio, and I know MC users will love that product and it;s simplicity. But if you want the freedom to experiment, or if you want to mix other blends, or even use your salts to whip up your own LOS, then go to page 3 and look over the BOM I use. I've since added monoammonium phosphate (MAP) and calcium sulfate (gypsum) to my inventory for hydro, but the buy in before shipping is still less than $200. It's the contemplation of the shipping charges that is the deal breaker for most.
 
Thanks to both of you. After the nightmare I endured stumbling around with the JR products and using them incorrectly this stuff (MC) is a joy. After two knowledgeable gardeners giving a huge thumbs up to the MC, my idea of contriving something is thankfully obsolete now. :)
 
Thanks to both of you. After the nightmare I endured stumbling around with the JR products and using them incorrectly this stuff (MC) is a joy. After two knowledgeable gardeners giving a huge thumbs up to the MC, my idea of contriving something is thankfully obsolete now. :)

Be mindful that calmag is also needed IMO, and if you're growing in peat (Faux Mix), you'll likely also want to add in silica to maintain favorable PH, but it's my experience that in rockwool, added silica is more problematic than beneficial, so I stopped adding more than the 0.9ppm that Megacrop has and I get perfect PH EVERY time. In fact, I haven't checked PH in weeks now in drain to waste, but prior to building my new rooms I was running 3 reservoirs of recirculating and the PH remained stable throughout the week also. FYI, I meant that to mean Megacrop plus the calmag and RO that I get perfect PH. Their first blend I was a hater, but this new blend I love.

JR Peters is good too, but when you make Jack's 321. The stuff you were using I think is their tomato blend, but cannabis needs less K and P and more Ca, and both Jack's 321 and Megacrop achieve those goals.

Example Charts A.JPG
Example Charts B.JPG
 
Be mindful that calmag is also needed IMO, and if you're growing in peat (Faux Mix), you'll likely also want to add in silica to maintain favorable PH, but it's my experience that in rockwool, added silica is more problematic than beneficial, so I stopped adding more than the 0.9ppm that Megacrop has and I get perfect PH EVERY time. In fact, I haven't checked PH in weeks now in drain to waste, but prior to building my new rooms
I know the purpose of this thread being how to use hydro buddy. I want to ask about your new garden, specifically about what goes on where and how you schedule your crops to increase harvest frequency. Is cool?
 
I know the purpose of this thread being how to use hydro buddy. I want to ask about your new garden, specifically about what goes on where and how you schedule your crops to increase harvest frequency. Is cool?

This thread was meant to sort of break the intimidating barrier of making your own nutrient concentrates from salts, then to use them concentrates to formulate your own nutrient regimen. Much like Farside does with his Silica, I did with every element. Hydro Buddy was just the app I used to do all the math. Some people prefer to use a spreadsheet as xls files can have the same sort of math programmed into it.

I've since taken this knowledge and applied it to making soil. I modeled my current soil composition off Doc Bud's Brix kit and used the numbers on his guaranteed analysis as targets for making up the soil amendment and drenches. I seriously doubt I "figured it out", but close enough is more than good for me.

As to harvest frequency, that was factored into the design of my new bloom room. Previously, when growing in hydro, I would dedicate a single 4x4 room to a plant, and for a while I was harvesting a pound per plant or more, but then my yields suffered repeatably and my bottom line disappeared. I then decided to ditch hydro so I could triple my plant count in bloom and opted to start using soil to save a lot of weight. My new room is about 9x9 feet, so that's 3x3 per plant which is not much less than the original 4x4. Sure I expect to yield less than hydro per plant, but having 9 plants enables me to space them apart by one week which will essentially allow me to harvest a plant every week, so even if I have to work with low yielding plants repetitively, it'll only be another week till I get the next chop.

The keys is to have a veg that will kick off a plant ready to start bloom every week which means I have to clone frequently or start seeds frequently. As is now, I have a bunch in veg at varying stages of growth, as well as my next 2 bloomers in their 10 gallon pots. Being so new with this setup, I'm still ironing out the wrinkles, but generally that's how it will go.

I hope that answered some of your question(s).
 
I am thinking of improving my veg room. Mostly because I currently have no veg room. I go from a small clone closet 4' wide 2' deep 4' tall where they root and start to veg. Then because of the size the plants they up pot from 1 gal to 5 and head straight to the bloom room. You do not mention a veg room in talking three rooms?

How many plants you run in stages of veg at a time?
 
I am thinking of improving my veg room. Mostly because I currently have no veg room. I go from a small clone closet 4' wide 2' deep 4' tall where they root and start to veg. Then because of the size the plants they up pot from 1 gal to 5 and head straight to the bloom room. You do not mention a veg room in talking three rooms?

How many plants you run in stages of veg at a time?

I haven't quite figured out my exact needs in veg yet to the extent that I am ready to draw up a calendar of sorts, but generally, my veg is more or less the same as yours (2x5x6). I created a small shelf big enough for a heatmat with a towel then a tote to serve as my clone dome. Once they root, I put them in a 9oz solo cup of rock wool croutons for about 2 weeks to quickly build the root system and stretch out tall. I then put them into 1 gal pots of soil and that generally takes 3 weeks more to fill out the pot with roots. From there I've been upping to 3 gal pots, but thus far, I've only been able to commit about 1 week to the 3 before needing to go up to the 10 gal pots, so I'm in the process of phasing the 3 gal pots out and going right from the 1gal to the 10 gal finish pots so their last 1-3 weeks in veg are in the 10 gal pots before being sent off to bloom every Tuesday.

Like I said, it's still a process being developed and I rely on necessity to dictate my needs, but roughly at all times I have 4-5 different stages of growth in veg.
 
You have answered my question even though (as usual) I worded it poorly. My lack of veg time is killing my yields. Plants just won't perform to my expectations when they are not given a chance. Your help is actually beginning to show up already downstairs. This bit of the puzzle will please them all the more. :)
Thanks Sky
 
Back
Top Bottom