Making Your Own Nutrient Concentrates
- Thread starter Skybound
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #202
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Links are easier to digest than screen shots. Generally speaking though, I am a proponent of using silica. I prefer salt because I no longer wish to buy bottled water with flashy labels, but not everyone is as fortunate. That really sucks too because when you're mixing your whole feed from salts, you can keep all of the complexes apart, then with Hydro Buddy combine them in a way that is very specific for your individual situation and have the ability to make needed adjustments as you (the user) see fit. If you can comprehend how much of an advantage using Hydro Buddy gives you over other hydro users using the same product, that's how I see the gap between salts and liquid ferts. When your studies advance, you get to look under the hood of everybody's bonnet, and you come to see that even organic soil blends also use those same salts to "cook" their soil. It's good to know that if I ever decide to grow in soil, I can still use my salts as part of the amendment.
Coolbananas
Active Member
Fantastic mate. I’ll give that a bit of a go. I may have to add a bit more Ca due to the coco but that looks the goods.I tried a few different things, macros only, then half the micros and nothing produced fast early growth so I just settled out with making just one regimen for all of veg, and dilute it till I have a couple new nodes, then it's full strength 600+ TDS. Here's my newest Veg routine, but I need to hit with PH Down every day which implies less K, so maybe next week I'll drop that to 140ppm and see how that goes.
I've noticed that 65 of P would be borderline deficient otherwise, but since I added the NH4+, I noticed all of the red petioles seemed to have vanished and all new growth looks luscious green.
tokeycones
Well-Known Member
Fair call i'll keep that in mind, there is a big price difference between the two silica products but the power si sais "Unlike other silica products, we work with the best possible silicic acid matrix (patented) to enable superior absorption." anyone know if there is merit behind this i'm happy to pay the extra if it's going to be absorbed alot easier by my plants. I just saw a great comment on that silica post about silicic acid which explains it's a great way to help with calcium uptake which is the beginning part of the biochemical sequence and made a lot of sense.
Coolbananas
Active Member
Perfect plants my friend. That’s exactly how they should look awesome job. Im finding I may be just skimming a N deficiency having 80ppm N. I might swap some more N03’s for aminos and see how that goes. I’m thinking maybeMy mistake, I meant 6 days till roots, hehe.
Here's the green I am liking from adding a bit of ammonium,
85-90ppm N late flower may be the target but I’m undecided yet. I’m running 10ppm NH4 which is about 12% of total N. They really like it from about 6wks flower. Shit hot plants mate!
Wait- silicic acid? I guess you can ignore my bit about it being alkaline then.
- Thread starter
- #207
Skybound
Well-Known Member
This is something you'll have to decide for yourself. If you're happy to pay the overage, I say go for it. There's nothing more priceless than peace of mind.
Verify the form of N that is in aminos can be used in plants as N. I believe AA has NH2 and I'm not certain it's a viable form of N. It might just be the carrier, or a byproduct of the AA or something.
Coolbananas
Active Member
But I’m also thinking it could be Ca. K is at 160ppm with Ca at 100ppm. The little bit of fade out is coming from the top leaves. What do you think?
tokeycones
Well-Known Member
So my buddys had some issues i ran his nutrient schedule through and he has being over doing it. the bottles he has are fine for getting perfect npk ratio's and most other micronutrients but there is only 0.5 N04+ is that going to be causing issues and if so what are some options for supplimenting the no4+. week 5 bloom
tokeycones
Well-Known Member
I saw somewhere you or skybound mentioned no higher than 130ppm K if coco coir. Is that the case?
- Thread starter
- #211
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Does "it" mean an N deficiency? That's what I was talking about when I suggested that you verify the form of N in amino acids.
It depends what you consider "issues". Will the plant die from the lack of NH4? no, will it have problems? yes. Find Monoammonium Phosphate or ammonium sulfate.
- Thread starter
- #212
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Making Your Own Nutrient Concentrates
That information was passed onto me from the grower that taught me about the ranges of each element. I kept that info with my notes, but because I've never grown in coco, I have no way of verifying it's validity. FWIW, there was also a cap @ 150 for K in regular (non coco) media, yet I found I could go 30ppm higher. That said, take the ranges I shared as a suggested starting point, then you yourself do some experimenting as I have in my grow.
- Thread starter
- #213
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Excellent short paper about NO3 v NH4.
https://greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf
https://greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf
I noticed there’s a new 420 staff member named @Daniel Hernandez.
Ya never know....
Ya never know....
- Thread starter
- #215
Skybound
Well-Known Member
SHUT THE FRONT DOOR!!!! Seriously?? That mofo better not be active cuz he's about to get riddled with questions, lol. That would be awesome if he was here. His blogs stop producing in '17, before I started to learn things. That would be awesome if I can chew the fat with him. With my basic coding skills, I might be able to modify the app here and there if possible. I recently noticed that I cannot target sulfur and in some instances, I would like too. Plus switch P and K in order, as well as Ca and Mg in order is confusing and should be corrected if possible.
- Thread starter
- #216
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Nevermind, that's the wrong person. The creator of Hydro Buddy is Daniel "F"ernandez, not Hernandez. Dang nabbit!
I feel like I’ve been asking you questions about this for way too long Sky, and you’ve probably already answered this one somewhere, but - if I was to buy one or two sources of phosphorus for hydro, what should I look for?
My ‘bloom’ nutrient has high K and there’s no way using it that I can avoid very high K levels. So I wouldn’t like to isolate the P if possible for better control. Thanks a lot.
My ‘bloom’ nutrient has high K and there’s no way using it that I can avoid very high K levels. So I wouldn’t like to isolate the P if possible for better control. Thanks a lot.
Need calcium too? How about Monocalcium phosphate?
- Thread starter
- #219
Skybound
Well-Known Member
As a salt, it really doesn't matter which phosphate you get, it's just then a question of which other element it's attached to that will influence your decision. In hydro nutes, MKP (mono-potassium phosphate) and MAP (mono-ammonium phosphate) are popular and TBH it's a lot less damaging to OD a plant on K than ammonium. But maybe the happiest way to add P w/o overdoing either K or NH4 is to use a little of both to emphasize on the P and less so on the K and NH4.
Calcium Phosphate (SRP) is also a good source of P for soil, but it requires microbes to break the colloids. My research to date leads me to believe that peat holds onto K really well, and remember that link we read maybe a month or two ago suggesting that peat, like coco, needs to be treated with calmag to replace the K+ ions with Ca++ and Mg++ ions, well that, in conjunction with studying the brix kit that is also peat moss based, I'm lead to believe that calcium phosphate is the best source for P in soil, but also soil microbes (bacillus megaterium) most importantly to prepare P- ions for the roots. But also a secondary source of P would still be needed to supplement P every now and again.
SRP aside tho, IMO, MKP then MAP is best sources of P I've used.
- Thread starter
- #220
Skybound
Well-Known Member
I never heard of this one. Is this like rock phosphate, or is it a soluble salt?