I think she was struggling from the water only in flower. If you want to clear out your medium you need to top flush and feed immediately after. Not easy to do in a SIP but still the only true way to reset the medium.
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Most people water-feed or even water-water-feed. The water should pick up unused salts. I was thinking it would work the same with the SIP. Do you feed every time?I think she was struggling from the water only in flower. If you want to clear out your medium you need to top flush and feed immediately after. Not easy to do in a SIP but still the only true way to reset the medium.
Well then... I guess I'll need to re-think the water breaks. I'll also look at getting the K back down near 200.Every time. Other than Fox Farms I can't recall a nute that says FWFW. And I fed every time when I used Fox Farm as well!
That's damn interesting Rhino.I feed my girls thru the reservoir, but when I have a lockout, I use a foliar. Lockouts stay locked out even if you boost the product.
Mix up whatever nutrient you think you're missing, 1/4 the strength that you'd pour in the reservoir, add a couple drops of insecticidal soap (or 1 drop of dawn) and mist the leaves super lightly before lights out. Just a mist, not so much that they drip and not on the buds, just the lower foliage and fans.
It only takes 2 or 3 days of misting to see results.
You can lead a plant to nutrients, but you can't make it drink...
Alot of that would probably depend on where the lockout was coming from? Either the soil or the gardener's secret spices? But yes it probably would return eventually.That's damn interesting Rhino.
If you take that approach what about the lockout in the soil? Will it clear with time?
Thanks again for all your help, Shed. Her res will be empty tomorrow morning, and I'll switch to this mix:Remo says "we recommend feeding every time you water." No mention of alternating in the PB instructions either.
I'm not sure she's locked out. She's still drinking about 2L/day. Is the locked out, or just not getting enough from her feed (or still showing issues from her water break)?I feed my girls thru the reservoir, but when I have a lockout, I use a foliar. Lockouts stay locked out even if you boost the product.
Thanks RSR, this is great information. I've never had to foliar feed before. In this case, what nutrient would you mix? The same as I'm feeding them (150N-50P-200K), or something with just PK (like sweet candy)?Mix up whatever nutrient you think you're missing, 1/4 the strength that you'd pour in the reservoir, add a couple drops of insecticidal soap (or 1 drop of dawn) and mist the leaves super lightly before lights out. Just a mist, not so much that they drip and not on the buds, just the lower foliage and fans.
It only takes 2 or 3 days of misting to see results.
You can lead a plant to nutrients, but you can't make it drink...
Thanks RSR, another great tip for my tomatoes outside. Luckily, I've managed to avoid blossom end rot this year. I credit the drip irrigation so they finally got consistent watering this year. If I do see it, though, I'll mix up some cal-mag in my sprayer and give them a feeding or threeAlot of that would probably depend on where the lockout was coming from? Either the soil or the gardener's secret spices? But yes it probably would return eventually.
Blossom End Rot spray is basically just calcium water, but it could be the difference between big beautiful sweet tomatoes, and red and black rotten lumps on a stem. It won't add calcium to the soil and it won't stop whatever might be keeping the roots from uptaking calcium - but it will save your tomato harvest.
Looks good to me, though I would recheck the numbers after you take the magnesium sulfate off the substance list (since it's not using it). Sometimes that changes the calculations.So you see any issues?
In this case, what nutrient would you mix? The same as I'm feeding them (150N-50P-200K), or something with just PK (like sweet candy)?
Thanks for the heads up, but it did not make a difference.Looks good to me, though I would recheck the numbers after you take the magnesium sulfate off the substance list (since it's not using it). Sometimes that changes the calculations.
She still has lots of bud on her, there's no way I'm giving up nowWhatever happens, no one can say you didn't give it your absolute best shot!
Good morning Cool Hand Luke
Thanks Trala, I do the same. Especially if it's off on it's own, I'll pluck that leaf before that bugger spreads.Not saying this is the way, it’s just a way I’ve found effective in my War on Mites. If I see even the tiniest bit of nit speckling I take the leaf off. I have found this has been super helpful in heading off the spread, well I think it has. That coupled with my Safers spray.
Yes, I've seen the same. If a plant gets weak they're more susceptible to bugs. I'm keeping a close eye on both of them.And I found this interesting, even though I knew this to be true with general gardening or that’s what my nursery guy told me in regards to gardenias. Plant health matters when it comes to pathogens and bugs. They go for the weakest link. I am doing a comparison grow with nutes, and the plant who powered in veg (zero spidermites) with Nutes B, but struggled with flower with Nutes B is the only plant to have small amounts of spidermites. The only reason it has stayed small is coz I check daily.