I added 1/2 tsp of EWC per gallon of soil starting yesterday as they need water. I sprinkle it on the mulch then just water it in.
If you can use EWC and never experience a calcium problem you are getting good smoke
The two plants I just transplanted that were top dressed with Geoflora, their soil was feeling stiff when wet so I sprinkled the same ratio EWC on their containers and as soon as it watered in it loosened the soil a bit.
It’s got me thinking of how many times calcium is the answer to problems and people just don’t realize it.
Thats why CalMag is my favorite rescue tool. If you need it you need it.
Ive been reading through the high brix journals and see lots of people say Dolomite lime should be switched out for something with more calcium. They say the magnesium is too high in Dolomite lime? What are your thoughts? My belief currently is that the DL is fine since I am also using gypsum, fish bone meal, SRP, and oyster shells to also bring calcium as well. The amount of Mag is fine as long as the Calcium is something like 8:1 I think.
This is what I put in the 20 gals recycled soil that I used for my outdoor PK's that are nailing some pretty high brix, as far as outright Calcium inputs go. Mag and Sulphur too.
I'm not exactly sure what the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium to Gypsum is in there as I have never calculated it, but it's also my only direct inputs. Traces may creep in with other additives.
5 cups prilled dolomite
.75 cups gypsum
1 cup oyster shell flour
Whatever the math comes out to on that is a pretty good ratio for LOS in my findings.
Also there seems to be an obsession with foliar spraying organic acids and using lots of teas. I think this may be due to poor gardening practices with limited understanding of soil biology. The organic acids could wreak havoc on my balance, and the teas can be cut out/down by germinating properly and introducing the correct types of microbes from the start.
I agree but that being said, some guys do some pretty cool stuff with it, I just prefer that the soil supplies.
Foliars can be great rescues. Fish ferts on a foliar spray on a sick or runty seedling is good medicine,
but for general growing I think you get better plants when the plant eats what it wants, not what we tell it too, at least for how I grow.
It’s my understanding that if I maintain a healthy balance and biology there really isn’t much need for me to keep throwing gallons of microbes in the soil, especially because I can’t dial in the types of microbes and cannabis prefers her specific ratios and types.
This is where letting last crops myco go dormant, causing last crops microbes to go dormant, the reason I always preach that any good mix should contain used soil.
Add a root and water and it self-innoculates the new pot to right where it was when the last crop finished.
If you also use that same used soil to run through your worm farm then you are innoculating your EWC, and if you think you need a tea to boost microbes then its a tea of your microbes.
I like to use a bit more myco at planting than most and get a good strong fungal base in the soil. Fish ferts really help here, Its why I preach fish ferts.
Microbes are waking and indigenizing but fungal is dominant, and then about 8 days after transplant when the myco you added at transplant should be really starting to establish, I hit it with a microbial tea of just water, BSM, and EWC.
At this point myco can withstand the onslaught of fresh microbes and you see a big boost.
That being said, this is how I administer my teas and I find it makes tea go farther AND reduces tip burn that tea almost always causes.
I fully water my pots gently but very thoroughly to full saturation and runoff, then as they are dripping out I add the tea, then when the dripping stops I add a bit more water.
Then just water lightly and frequently for 3 or 4 days but not to runoff, only to dampen the tea again.
I’m much better off germinating the cannabis’ preferred microbes and just keeping them fed
By recycling you already are. If you cook used soil myco takes a beatdown which is fine if you know that, but if you cut your final cooked recipe with some used soil and blend it really well right before potting, you get what you already paid for.
not really
that my outdoor 17 gal SIP plants look a lot better this year than last. The only difference is that this year I mixed in compost as about half the mix, the other half old soil and hydroton.
Looking good
