Keffkas Coast Of Maine Line, TLO/LOS Style, Bagseed, Indoor Grow

Everybody took their transplants pretty well today. No big complaints. Myco has bitten in every container so far so that’s good. The roots all look healthy and strong.

Everyone transplanted today is 14 days old

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I’ve got everyone transplanted today on the floor for today. They’ll get put up on milk crates in the morning.

Here are the remaining seedlings. I have a feeling I see a male already. The tallest plant has very long internode spacing compared to the others.. We’ll keep an eye on it
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My biggest takeaway from this seedling run was the need to water the top and entire cup more often. The added perlite really amped up my need to water, and I didn’t account for the ability to water more often. Noted
 
Well, I have no idea of how it works compared to the others. I guess I should crack open the bottle of GW I have sitting in the cabinet and compare. But, honestly, I can't afford to have my plants get much bigger due to my space.

Two months on the old soil off to the side, eh? I'll have to try that and see. But first I think I have to do a better job getting the fungi established at the beginning of the grow and hold off on the the bacteria stuff for a bit.
Your leaf mold intrigues me😎 Diversity is good, so GW may compliment it tremendously. If it improves and then you can perpetuate that...👍.

Your plants are already too big.... really dude??!! not funny!!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
Everybody took their transplants pretty well today. No big complaints. Myco has bitten in every container so far so that’s good. The roots all look healthy and strong.

Everyone transplanted today is 14 days old

C0FB1645-8255-439D-96D6-560B0BFFCBB8.jpeg

59CD94E8-FE42-4C29-A41D-F8AF7EBBA55A.jpeg

13C4DC1D-AC60-4D30-9338-FC7F25938B27.jpeg


13F4705A-A48F-437A-B29A-EC83602989D3.jpeg
4C66AE9E-D6A5-46B8-86B1-4EFF750E1427.jpeg


I’ve got everyone transplanted today on the floor for today. They’ll get put up on milk crates in the morning.

Here are the remaining seedlings. I have a feeling I see a male already. The tallest plant has very long internode spacing compared to the others.. We’ll keep an eye on it
0492385F-CC94-434B-8BF8-44818080F4B8.jpeg
378FCA26-89E1-4E78-8FC2-98BC4ED2D783.jpeg


My biggest takeaway from this seedling run was the need to water the top and entire cup more often. The added perlite really amped up my need to water, and I didn’t account for the ability to water more often. Noted
Nice roots! 😎😎😎

That solo cup in the front is a pretty plant❤️

😎 I would say your myco is working!😎
 
Nice roots! 😎😎😎

That solo cup in the front is a pretty plant❤️

😎 I would say your myco is working!😎

Everything looks really good which is impressive because my heater has tripped three times now without me realizing it and the temps dropped to 63 for a few hours. I’ve also been under watering because I didn’t account for the extra perlite. It shows you how powerful microbes are. It also makes me wonder how much bigger the plants and roots would be if I was watering more often. 14 days in this setup is a perfect amount of time to get them ready for 1 gallons, I just need to dial in my resources a little tighter.
 
Your plants are already too big.... really dude??!! not funny!!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes, my plants are already too big ...for my space. I should have clarified my original statement as it does sound a bit bragidocious. But they're in 2G buckets so, you know, how big could they really be??
:cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Im not sure Azi, sorry. The way I have done it, which I found online and seems to work really well, is to chop the plant a smidge below the dirt line to signal that life is over for sure. Then I let the pot sit dormant for about 2 months in a dark dry cool corner of my garage and the fungii will not actually die from what I read, but will spore out and go dormant.

When it comes in contact with the bioslime of a root it propagates.

I have tried watering empty pots of soil to propagate it and it doesn't really work but in my worm farm, which has tons of seeds from veggie scraps, and they sprout constantly, the hyphae appear and form mycellium in 6-8 days.

As for your particular strain, if its working well for you and you know what to expect from it I would protect it, but I would also science a few pots to see if adding new strains of myco improves it. If yours is better put it on Amazon so I can buy some please!🤣
You know, when thinking about how @Gee64 treats his pots and rootballs between grows, it occurs to me that we are missing a huge opportunity to really up our game with next to no extra effort.

"Then I let the pot sit dormant for about 2 months in a dark dry cool corner of my garage and the fungii will not actually die from what I read, but will spore out and go dormant."

"When
it comes in contact with the bioslime of a root it propagates."

It seems to me if we just prepared our pots for the next cycle a month or two early, prepared it with myco and then planted a cover crop for that interim period, we could accomplish many things. First we would give the myco a chance to grow on live roots for a period unencumbered by competition from bacteria if we fed it fish, we could trap some nitrogen in the soil if we used legumes like beans or peas or whatever, the roots that did grow would aerate the soil when we cut it down when planting our canna plant, etc.

If this idea holds merit, are there better cover crops than others to use to encourage myco?

I don't see much downside and the upside could be material.

Thoughts?
 
Normally I would’ve topped the plants as I transplanted them so the stress was all at once instead of back to back. I decided this grow I’m not topping. I’m gonna bonsai train (it looks like a bonsai to me lol) the plants like in @InTheShed LST tutorial. I will prune as we go, but I am really trying to avoid any unnecessary removal of plant parts.

Here is a link to Sheds tutorial.. It’s a great breakdown.. If you’re running autos this is a great way to avoid recovery time and boost yields

How I perform low stress training on my plants: Lots of pics!
 
You know, when thinking about how @Gee64 treats his pots and rootballs between grows, it occurs to me that we are missing a huge opportunity to really up our game with next to no extra effort.

"Then I let the pot sit dormant for about 2 months in a dark dry cool corner of my garage and the fungii will not actually die from what I read, but will spore out and go dormant."

"When
it comes in contact with the bioslime of a root it propagates."

It seems to me if we just prepared our pots for the next cycle a month or two early, prepared it with myco and then planted a cover crop for that interim period, we could accomplish many things. First we would give the myco a chance to grow on live roots for a period unencumbered by competition from bacteria if we fed it fish, we could trap some nitrogen in the soil if we used legumes like beans or peas or whatever, the roots that did grow would aerate the soil when we cut it down when planting our canna plant, etc.

If this idea holds merit, are there better cover crops than others to use to encourage myco?

I don't see much downside and the upside could be material.

Thoughts?

I love this idea.. This is similar to what I was thinking for a perpetual myco grow. We would need to figure out whether the myco will reestablish in a different crop than the one it associated with. My original idea was to have basically a mother plant with a mother myco colony.
 
I love this idea.. This is similar to what I was thinking for a perpetual myco grow. We would need to figure out whether the myco will reestablish in a different crop than the one it associated with. My original idea was to have basically a mother plant with a mother myco colony.
I guess we could also harvest the rootball and chop up the roots and disperse them into the new pot mix.

I never really realized why the LOS guys were so fond of cover crops, this must be why. I always thought it was just to cover the soil with something so it wouldn't crust over or something and you could add organic material by plowing the cover crop in.

But, if it's really about the myco, why aren't we hearing about it? The organic soil guys can't be hiding it in plain sight, can they? :hmmmm:
 
You know, when thinking about how @Gee64 treats his pots and rootballs between grows, it occurs to me that we are missing a huge opportunity to really up our game with next to no extra effort.

"Then I let the pot sit dormant for about 2 months in a dark dry cool corner of my garage and the fungii will not actually die from what I read, but will spore out and go dormant."

"When
it comes in contact with the bioslime of a root it propagates."

It seems to me if we just prepared our pots for the next cycle a month or two early, prepared it with myco and then planted a cover crop for that interim period, we could accomplish many things. First we would give the myco a chance to grow on live roots for a period unencumbered by competition from bacteria if we fed it fish, we could trap some nitrogen in the soil if we used legumes like beans or peas or whatever, the roots that did grow would aerate the soil when we cut it down when planting our canna plant, etc.

If this idea holds merit, are there better cover crops than others to use to encourage myco?

I don't see much downside and the upside could be material.

Thoughts?
Indoor Organic LOS Cover-crop No-Till. Its a thing and its wickedly cool but its a big bed in a tent. I like being able to science pots, compare them, dissect them. Its really risky to change things in a no-till bed. If you screw up its costly. If you get it right its pretty cool. If you have a free tent then I highly endorse it. Imagine that fresh air smell in your garage or attic?
 
I guess we could also harvest the rootball and chop up the roots and disperse them into the new pot mix.

I never really realized why the LOS guys were so fond of cover crops, this must be why. I always thought it was just to cover the soil with something so it wouldn't crust over or something and you could add organic material by plowing the cover crop in.

But, if it's really about the myco, why aren't we hearing about it? The organic soil guys can't be hiding it in plain sight, can they? :hmmmm:
lol its totally about the myco so you may as well use a cover(up) crop that enhances the nitrogen cycle. Sneaky bug farmers.
 
I guess we could also harvest the rootball and chop up the roots and disperse them into the new pot mix.

I never really realized why the LOS guys were so fond of cover crops, this must be why. I always thought it was just to cover the soil with something so it wouldn't crust over or something and you could add organic material by plowing the cover crop in.

But, if it's really about the myco, why aren't we hearing about it? The organic soil guys can't be hiding it in plain sight, can they? :hmmmm:

Now that you say this it clicked. In nature Myco associates with multiple types of plants at once. Feeding resources to those with less from those with more. There’s no reason we wouldn’t be able to replicate this inside. The simplest path would be what Gee recommends here:

Indoor Organic LOS Cover-crop No-Till. Its a thing and its wickedly cool but its a big bed in a tent. I like being able to science pots, compare them, dissect them. Its really risky to change things in a no-till bed. If you screw up its costly. If you get it right its pretty cool. If you have a free tent then I highly endorse it. Imagine that fresh air smell in your garage or attic?

However, I’m rarely the one to choose the simple route lol. We could perhaps establish a large container, say 25 gallons or so, and just rotate plants in and out. Although the bed seems a better choice. This would require some planning and foresight but it’s definitely feasible.
 
Now that you say this it clicked. In nature Myco associates with multiple types of plants at once. Feeding resources to those with less from those with more. There’s no reason we wouldn’t be able to replicate this inside. The simplest path would be what Gee recommends here:



However, I’m rarely the one to choose the simple route lol. We could perhaps establish a large container, say 25 gallons or so, and just rotate plants in and out. Although the bed seems a better choice. This would require some planning and foresight but it’s definitely feasible.
I'm sure I've mentioned the Build a Soil yt channel before. He's using two beds inside a 10x10 tent. He uses cover crops between grows and does what he calls chop-and-drop with it to prepare the beds for planting. It's pretty interesting to watch his processes.
 
But why wouldn't the same concepts apply to a smaller pot? Not no till, because of size, but starting the next pot a month or two early with a cover crop and myco. Put it in the same veg space so the microbes are climate adjusted, grow the myco on a sacrificial plant(s) and maybe put in an empty pot as a place holder so when it's time to up-pot you've got the hole already dug and disturb the mycelium as little as possible.

Unless this is somehow unlikely to work, I think I'm going to try it.

So, give me reasons why it won't work, please.
 
But why wouldn't the same concepts apply to a smaller pot? Not no till, because of size, but starting the next pot a month or two early with a cover crop and myco. Put it in the same veg space so the microbes are climate adjusted, grow the myco on a sacrificial plant(s) and maybe put in an empty pot as a place holder so when it's time to up-pot you've got the hole already dug and disturb the mycelium as little as possible.

Unless this is somehow unlikely to work, I think I'm going to try it.

So, give me reasons why it won't work, please.
Oh I would think that it would work beautifully if you have the space and extra soil.
 
Oh I would think that it would work beautifully if you have the space and extra soil.
Well, no real extra space, really, just the space needed for an extra pot which I can squeeze into my veg space.

So, the next question is what's the minimum time needed for a decent network to develop and what is the ideal amount. I run a perpetual grow and cycle every 6 weeks. Is that enough time?
 
I'm sure I've mentioned the Build a Soil yt channel before. He's using two beds inside a 10x10 tent. He uses cover crops between grows and does what he calls chop-and-drop with it to prepare the beds for planting. It's pretty interesting to watch his processes.

I’ve perused his site.. he’s slightly negative and has a lot to say about what others are doing which is kind of off putting. I get it though.. my buddy that hooked me up with my setup was done with the community so much that he stopped smoking so I can understand BaS attitude. (Not this community specifically, just growing in general)

However I do like the idea of beds indoors.. I would have to really think about my setup as I don’t know if I could work it out with what I have due to the sloped roof.


Well, no real extra space, really, just the space needed for an extra pot which I can squeeze into my veg space.

So, the next question is what's the minimum time needed for a decent network to develop and what is the ideal amount. I run a perpetual grow and cycle every 6 weeks. Is that enough time?

It’s said that 1 month will have a decent network established and that’s close to what I’ve seen. 6 weeks would be even better as it would allow for even more efficiency. Once the myco “bites” it wastes no time getting to work and can fill out fast. It just needs to get that signal to start. Anything you get after 4 weeks is icing on the cake.

One of the things I was thinking is the longer myco interacts with specific plants and environments the more efficient it becomes. If we can get maybe a hemp plant or something similar to cannabis as a rotational crop it would likely improve its efficiency and familiarity with our preferred plants. The fungus can think and feel, with that being the case I assume it can learn as well.
 
Well, no real extra space, really, just the space needed for an extra pot which I can squeeze into my veg space.

So, the next question is what's the minimum time needed for a decent network to develop and what is the ideal amount. I run a perpetual grow and cycle every 6 weeks. Is that enough time?
When I use fresh soil and add myco it usually takes 6-8 days until you see a noticable improvement in a plant.

The worm farm also shows hyphae in about a week. How long after that to fully inhabit the entire pot I have no idea but like I said, 6-8 days usually and the plant has linked to the myco.

Are you planning to use seeds or clones?
 
When I use fresh soil and add myco it usually takes 6-8 days until you see a noticable improvement in a plant.

The worm farm also shows hyphae in about a week. How long after that to fully inhabit the entire pot I have no idea but like I said, 6-8 days usually and the plant has linked to the myco.

Are you planning to use seeds or clones?

What happens to the myco in the worm bins? It’s not destroyed when digested? I mean obviously not or I don’t think myco could exist in nature at the levels we’ve seen but I’m intrigued.. are they able to avoid it, or does it just pass right through like Taco Bell?
 
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