JZ's Shootout: Part Deux

Ok, all good info...a little over my head tho, gonna have to read it a couple times to understand it. :scratchinghead:

Here's the manufactures link to the TDS meter I have, nowhere does it specify .5 or .7 TDS-EZ Water Quality Tester - HM Digital

Now what?
 
I always record my EC and use that as my indicator of what my nute strength is. Some of the nute companies will state their target strength in both EC and PPM. I like to shoot for EC but usually report the PPM in my journal since that is the common measurement that everyone understands.
Mr. Krip said:
When you're talking about EC, there's no conversion factor involved..

I hope this helps! :Namaste:
Click to expand...
 
I'm still thinking at this stage, playing 'god' with these current plants while I figure out my god-powers is tantamount to torture; the 4 AF's in their little 5.5" coir nests are oh so happy. I'm still really leaning to repotting those 4 into fresh coir with OC+, and just using the reservoir with RODI charged with Ca-Mg (not the Botanicare stuff, the GH is only 1-0-0), pH'd properly.

My reasoning is not only because I seem to be making a botch out of this, but also because I NEED SOME DAMNED MEDS, and am tired of emptying my wallet on a weekly basis for pain relief!

Mr. Krip - a most amazing discourse on TDS/EC/PPM stuff, I'd like to add that to my blog with your permission, and could I, I'd +rep you MORE :high-five:

Sqwheels - love the babies! I hope they do well for you, I know you'll be a good 'mom' to them! :MoreNutes:

Thanks for your help, all of you - I'm trying not to be discouraged, but after a full year of no harvests, it's tough to think optimistically sometimes, especially when you get a good start to seedlings, then proceed to fry the hell out of them!

Gonna ponder the OC+/RODI/AF babies thing while at work tonight and have a decision to share later.


:thankyou::Namaste:


:bongrip: - JZ
 
Jozo-sha said:
...Mr. Krip - a most amazing discourse on TDS/EC/PPM stuff, I'd like to add that to my blog with your permission, and could I, I'd +rep you MORE :high-five:...
Click to expand...

LOL...No problem, Brother! It's in your journal, so it's yours to do with as you wish! :) No need for more rep's, but I'll take another :high-five:
 
Hi JZ,

Hope it's ok with you that we vent this topic in your journal...cause I'm still working my watering/feeding problems out. After re-reading Mr.K's post and a little research I think I'm going to buy a either a $25 EC-3: Handheld Conductivity Tester with Case - HM Digital or the $56 COM-100: Waterproof EC / TDS / Temp Combo Meter - HM Digital I'm thinking a little bit more $ and have one meter to do it all, right now it takes me 20-30 minutes to make water every day

Thanks to Bassman...from what you said I'm assuming that if I have to use NaCI to calibrate it's .5 in scale??? If I'm wrong, please tell me.
 
sqwheels said:
Hi JZ,

Hope it's ok with you that we vent this topic in your journal...cause I'm still working my watering/feeding problems out. After re-reading Mr.K's post and a little research I think I'm going to buy a either a $25 EC-3: Handheld Conductivity Tester with Case - HM Digital or the $56 COM-100: Waterproof EC / TDS / Temp Combo Meter - HM Digital I'm thinking a little bit more $ and have one meter to do it all, right now it takes me 20-30 minutes to make water every day

Thanks to Bassman...from what you said I'm assuming that if I have to use NaCI to calibrate it's .5 in scale??? If I'm wrong, please tell me.
Click to expand...

Sqwheels, Not really...

Your meter IS a 500 conversion meter, so 1 EC will read 500 PPM on your meter. You don't need to have another meter to read EC, you can simply divide your PPM's by 500 and that should give you the EC reading.

I use a Hanna 98130 which does PH, EC, TDS and temps; and lets you switch calibrations from 500 to 700. It's nice to have it all in one meter, but not necessary.

It does mean that, if you need to convert PPM's taken on a 700 meter, there will be some math...

For example, if you want to feed 1400 PPM, based on a 700 conversion meter, you first need to divide the PPM's by 700 to get the EC, then multiply by 500 to get the TDS reading on your meter, so:

1400 PPM/700=2 EC
2 EC * 500= 1,000 PPM's on your meter
 
The mixed bag/motley crew that is my tent is about to undergo yet another purging - all looked worse for wear.

Currently, the res is at pH 5.1 @ 770ppm - I'm drawing more RODI as I type this (10 gallons down, 5 to go, at least for tonight), then will execute the mangled shells of what once could have been lovely cannabis plants, purge the reservoir and start afresh.

Reservoir will have 9 gallons of RODI cut with 10ml/gallon CAli-MAGic (remember, SteveHMan, it's only 1-0-0!), fresh coir in all the pots, with added 2 tbsp of OC+ prills. Do the transplant thing, let the wicking begin and try again.
 
Slaughtered the innocent, pulled from the nest
not time for stragglers whilst I play supreme being
again dear friends into the breach
to vanquish failure is defined in my mind as 'best'


Prose, for the Propa genteel man...
 
The four autoflowering children are in the system. Interestingly enough, even though they are a mere 1cm or so tall, I saw feeder roots throughout the volume of the coir from the 5.5" pots - I prepped fresh coir last night, and spiked it with about 2 tbsp./gallon or so of OC+ prills. I laid a bed of that charged coir in the bottom of the Easy2Grow pots, sufficient that the 5.5" pots sat in it and the level of coir in those was where I'd want it in the main pot. I left the 5.5" pots in each of the 4 E2G units, then, as one would pour concrete arounf a form, I filled the gap between the outer pot's inner wall and the inner pot's outer wall with more charged coir.

Of course, I didn't have enough to 'fill the forms' on all 4, so I left them like that, while I let the big ass 5.5kg block of compressed coir rehydrate with 5 gallons of RODI overnight (this morning!). Took some of the rehydrated coir today and mixed a handful of prills in and filled the rest of my 'forms' - the transplants went flawless, perfect holes for the coir pegs from the 5.5" pots :high-five:

9 gallons of RODI in the res @ pH7/0, then added 45ml of CALi-MAGic, allowed it to aerate for an hour, readings were 6.8/350. Added another 45ml of CALi-MAGic, again, waited an hour before taking the readings - 6.6/680.

I've just started *slowly* bringing the pH down, so far 1.5ml of pH Down has lowered the value to 5.9. I just added another .4ml, striking for 5.6 - 5.8.

Thanks for hangin.

Update @ 3:12AM - pH 5.5/670ppm. took 1.9ml of pH Down to get it to pH 5.5 (just under 9 gallons of water).

:bongrip: - JZ
 
Hi JZ,

Happy to see you're movin' again...hope this works for you.

I'll be watching... :rollit:
 
sqwheels said:
Hi JZ,

Happy to see you're movin' again...hope this works for you.

I'll be watching... :rollit:
Click to expand...

missbud said:
Wow Jozo-sha!, looks like your back on track:goodjob::circle-of-love::Namaste:
Click to expand...

Thank you ladies. I was just recounting the past year with my roommate (her wife left her, then our basement flooded, then she lost her position at work and got shifted to a new department, I managed to kill 4 grows and harvest nothing) and decided THIS was the year that I finally got some meds for my efforts!

The OC+ is pretty much foolproof, as long as the Ca/Mg stuff doesn't trip me up, I shouldn't have to do a damned thing except provide pH balanced water. DocBud suggested adding Snow Storm Ultra once flowering starts, to the finish. I also have Gravity, so I'll use that in minuscule amounts in the latter half of flowering.

The 'Cate Harrington' autos are supposed to start flowering in 20-25 days, then about 35-42 more days to finish. Those girls broke coir on the 8th, so that makes them a week old - they allegedly finish anywhere from 8" to 24", so it's not about a volume harvest, more just GETTING a GROW FINISHED. My aquatic poet friend has a lovely means of 'propa'gating, when these autos hit mid-flower, I'll seek some cuts, perhaps - I also have a few female seeds left (these), and when my confidence is built back up, maybe I'll try growing them.

I'll be checking the volume (roughly - I use a yardstick with sharpied on 3/6/9 gallon marks), pH and ppm of the reservoir daily to see any trends. Figure this way, I can more easily plan on maintaining the reservoir without any major swings in chemistry.


:bongrip: - JZ
 
The four autoflowering children are in the system. Interestingly enough, even though they are a mere 1cm or so tall, I saw feeder roots throughout the volume of the coir from the 5.5" pots
Click to expand...

Autos(Ruderalis) have VERY FAST growing tap root. Best to put them in the container that you plan to grow them out in, because anything that inhibits that tap root from stretching, usually causes a decrease in yield, even moreso than on regular plants, because they have a much shorter timeframe..
 
GodsTrichome said:
Autos(Ruderalis) have VERY FAST growing tap root. Best to put them in the container that you plan to grow them out in, because anything that inhibits that tap root from stretching, usually causes a decrease in yield, even moreso than on regular plants, because they have a much shorter timeframe..
Click to expand...

They were only in the 5.5" pots for a week, now they're in the full 1.7 gallon containers for the remainder of the grow. I expect they'll expand their root system to fill the container pretty well before the above ground push; that's what I'd experienced in my last successful hydro/auto grow :thankyou:


:bongrip: - JZ
 
:popcorn:
 
Back
Top Bottom