Just got a new Light and need help

So my routine has always been, fill bucket with de-chlor. and airiated tap water (tap water sitting at least 24 hours and with air running through it), then I test the PH, it is usually between 8-9, then I mix the 3 nutes from my TA TriPak and then test ph again. It usually is around 7-7.3. So I use my BioBizz Down and get it to 5.8. And I always stir the meter around for a while to make sure it is going to stay at the last reading. I mean I dont wait 15 mins, but until I dont see the meter moving anymore, or at least it is just moving up and down by 0.01. Thats it, and this has always worked in the past.

The only thing different from my grows from before is the tap water. We have moved since the last grow and this is the first time I have ever had such a high PH in my tap water.

Please let me know if there is anything that I am doing that could maybe be changed. Like I said this has always worked for me before but if I need to do something different becuase of the high ph I am more than willing to give it a try.
Tomorrow will be be the big test. I am anxious to see what the levels are on my DWC. Will be able to see if I am going to have to be doing a lot of tampering with the PH every day.


The Temp is not normal. Normally I have between 75f-81f, but it is extremely hot outside in the last few days so I cant do much about it until this heat wave passes.

thanks again for all the info and help! :thumb:

When you increase the light intensity you also need to increase the nutes, and when you change the spectrum you also need to change the ratios of the different nutrients.

Biobizz is quite tricky to grow with, and I'd actually only recommend using it outdoors for plants in the ground or in big beds.
I'd recommend going with a brand that offers a simple solution with a 1 bottle in veg and 1 bottle in flower regime.
Also, Biobizz has to be flushed well out with at least 10x potsize pure water at least once and then fed pure water at least 10 days before harvest to properly flush out the Grow/Fish-Mix. Timing this right can be pretty hard when growing from seed. If you don't do it the smoke will be harsh and the burn will be poor and leave black ash.

Alc-a-mic is a necessity if you use Biobizz with hard water (high initial pH value).

⚠️ You MUST adjust the pH of the water to 6.5 - 7 BEFORE adding the nutrients, this is very important, you'll mess up the way Biobizz works by adjusting pH after adding nutes to the water!


What's the 3 nutes you got in the Tripack?
If you're using both Grow and Fish-mix you're too high on N, if you're already adding Top Max you're doing it too early.

Don't try to flush to fix issues with Biobizz, it reacts slowly, what you do now won't show for another 1-2 weeks, so it's important to be patient and only intervene if symptom are rapidly worsening.

On top of my head I'd say doing the pH'ing correctly and adding more Bloom and Alc-a-mic would fix it :)
 
Biobizz is quite tricky to grow with
It didn't click that he was using Bio Biz organic nutes, in hydro. Agreed, that any organic nute is tricky, especially in hydro because they are harder to stabilize. I would avoid any product that recommends 7 different additives then flush it all out before harvest. That just sounds like the base product is insufficient and even though it may be organic, you don't want to consume it? All in one synthetics are much easier, grow the same and if you don't over feed, you never have to flush.
 
It didn't click that he was using Bio Biz organic nutes, in hydro. Agreed, that any organic nute is tricky, especially in hydro because they are harder to stabilize. I would avoid any product that recommends 7 different additives then flush it all out before harvest. That just sounds like the base product is insufficient and even though it may be organic, you don't want to consume it? All in one synthetics are much easier, grow the same and if you don't over feed, you never have to flush.
Who said I was using Bio Biz for my hydro? I am sorry if I was not clear in my earlier posts, but I am using TA TriPak for my DWC, and Bio Bizz for my Soil old grows. Those that are getting ready to be harvested I am using just water right now.

I am switching everything to TA TriPak so all of my new seedlings that go in soil will also get the TA TriPak. But that will not be for a while because I use Bio Bizz "All Mix" for my soil grows, and it has all the nutes in it until about the 4th week. Until then it is just de-chlorinated water.
 
When you increase the light intensity you also need to increase the nutes, and when you change the spectrum you also need to change the ratios of the different nutrients.

Biobizz is quite tricky to grow with, and I'd actually only recommend using it outdoors for plants in the ground or in big beds.
I'd recommend going with a brand that offers a simple solution with a 1 bottle in veg and 1 bottle in flower regime.
Also, Biobizz has to be flushed well out with at least 10x potsize pure water at least once and then fed pure water at least 10 days before harvest to properly flush out the Grow/Fish-Mix. Timing this right can be pretty hard when growing from seed. If you don't do it the smoke will be harsh and the burn will be poor and leave black ash.

Alc-a-mic is a necessity if you use Biobizz with hard water (high initial pH value).

⚠️ You MUST adjust the pH of the water to 6.5 - 7 BEFORE adding the nutrients, this is very important, you'll mess up the way Biobizz works by adjusting pH after adding nutes to the water!


What's the 3 nutes you got in the Tripack?
If you're using both Grow and Fish-mix you're too high on N, if you're already adding Top Max you're doing it too early.

Don't try to flush to fix issues with Biobizz, it reacts slowly, what you do now won't show for another 1-2 weeks, so it's important to be patient and only intervene if symptom are rapidly worsening.

On top of my head I'd say doing the pH'ing correctly and adding more Bloom and Alc-a-mic would fix it :)
The TriPak consists of "Grow", "Bloom", and "Micro". Easy Peasy ;)
 
Surprised you had not heard of this before, because it happened a long time ago, 2015?


it still runs under the GH brand name here. its a GH clone/rebrand, there's piles of them now, they rename it for several markets. they tried marketing a version in big box stores a year or two back under a different name.
 
Surprised you had not heard of this before, because it happened a long time ago, 2015?
Because in the US and Canada the company became part of Scotts Miracle Gro's cannabis growing subsidiary and retained the name. In the European market Terra Aquatics split off from General Hydroponics and became a separate company owned entirely or in part by the original owners and staff.

Interesting that it also came up in discussion here. There is another thread on Scotts and Miracle Gro at this link:
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/man-if-anyone-tells-you-mg-is-inferior-as-a-media-for-outside-pots.543253/
 
Who said I was using Bio Biz for my hydro? I am sorry if I was not clear in my earlier posts, but I am using TA TriPak for my DWC, and Bio Bizz for my Soil old grows. Those that are getting ready to be harvested I am using just water right now.

I am switching everything to TA TriPak so all of my new seedlings that go in soil will also get the TA TriPak. But that will not be for a while because I use Bio Bizz "All Mix" for my soil grows, and it has all the nutes in it until about the 4th week. Until then it is just de-chlorinated water.
Sorry for the confusion. I thought you were using a standard 3 part synthetic for hydro but then the Bio Bizz reference caused confusion. Looking back I see it was Bio Biz nutrient brand PH down that you were adding. Didn't help that I was discussing organic nutrient right before reading this thread. My brain doesn't shift gears as fast as it use to.
 
Sorry for the confusion. I thought you were using a standard 3 part synthetic for hydro but then the Bio Bizz reference caused confusion. Looking back I see it was Bio Biz nutrient brand PH down that you were adding. Didn't help that I was discussing organic nutrient right before reading this thread. My brain doesn't shift gears as fast as it use to.
np Sativa1970, and I am right there with ya on the brain not shifting gears like it used to. By me there is a lot of stuff that does not shift so well anymore, another reason im still in the Hospital. :-(
 
87° and 54%? That's very harsh conditions for cannabis.

VPD is a very good way to express combinations of temperature and humidity. This page is a good explanation of VPD.

VPD is akin to "feels like" for humans. At 87 and 51, your plants are functioning in a desert-like environment.

In veg, cannabis grows best when VPD is 1.0 while VPD in flower should range from 1.2 to 1.5 ( prefer 1.2 or 1.3). Check the intersection of 87 and 54 and your plant is working in a VPD of 1.7±.

To function in a hot and dry environment like that, your plants have to throw off a significant amount of water. Like humans, plants can be described as "bags of water" and when the air is hot and dry, water will flow from that a bag of water to the outside air. That's because there's not a lot of water in the air but there is a lot of water in the plant <== that means that the "deficit" is high and, in nature, everything tends to move from high to low.

With all that water leaving the plant, the roots have to take up a lot more water than normal and when plants take up a lot more water than normal they also take up a lot more nutrients than normal.

In terms of VPD, your plants will do better growing in an environment that is about 10° lower.

1723479039716.png


The other reason to lower the temperature is that at 87° you're "decimating" your cannabinoids The word "decimate" is a paraphrase of how the loss of cannabinoids was described when temperature of the flower tops of cannabis plants exceeds 78°.

Mitch Westmoreland, a cannabis researched studying under Bruce Bugbee, did a video on growing hemp about three years ago and he mentioned that…

[searches for notes and finds them]

I've grown my plants in the low to mid 80's and, while some of the yields have been prodigious, they haven't had the kick that I associated with premium bud that I've bought from resellers here in CA. In response to the Westmoreland videos, I'm changing my growing processes and am replacing my flower light so I can provide my plants with 1100µmol± as well as keeping the tops of the flowers <78° in flower.

Below are the notes I took on the Westmoreland video on hemp.

Does Hemp Need Extra Water and Fertilizer?
Mitch Westmoreland


Plants grown at 73 and 84 degrees. Plants at 84 were taller but colas were smaller in girth.

At 84 little but taller, a bit more vegetative biomass. Yield wasn't all that affected by the increase tempearature. At 84°, cannabanoids were roughly 1/2 of what they were at cooler temperatures.

Suggest that the optimum is between 70 and 80.

Fertilizer
You've probably come across hundreds of companies promising to boost yield. They "lack a theoretical basis" and you'll probably end up just throwing away money and excess nutrients that will end up polluting our nice rivers.

We recomend that you fertilize it just as you would tomatoes. This is a good comparison there's nothing particularly special about hemp.

One of the big claims that you'll see coming out out of the cannabis industry is that high phosphorus will increase yield and will increase cannabanoid content. We've tested this.

We look at a range of phosporus treatments ranging from borderline deficient to excessive. We found no significan difference, especially as we move toward the rates recommended by the cannabis industry. This has implications because phosporhus is a potent pollutant in our environment.

What we're trying to do is get growers to use as little P as we can while still getting a good crop.

Drought stress
In veg - they're very resiliant. Got to the point where they were severely wilted. They recovered so that it seems as if nothing happened. Hard to see which one's were stressed and while ones were well watered.

In flower - yellowing and dropping of leaves and reduction in yield. CBD and THC does not make production increase.

Temperature - yield increased slightly. CBD and THC plummeted - "cut in half basically". We don't have a good explanation for this right now. We're going to ssee if we can reproduce this and see if we can come up with an explanation for what's going on."

Per my notes, above, high temps will result in a signficant loss of THC and CBD (he doesn't mention terpenes here). Westmoreland continued his research in this area and, in early 2024, released two videos in which he discussed some of the aspect of the work that he had presented for his PhD thesis.


1723480030169.png


This graphic, the growth rate which is substantiated in other published research, it why I recommend keeping light levels as high as the plant will tolerate. Other research shows that the result is not quite linear but the research indicates a direct cause/effect relationship between increased light levels and crop yield, assuming that light is the limiting factor.

1723480004082.png


My advice, read up on VPD (you need an IR thermometer to get your leaf surface temperature), drop your tent temp and LST, and adjust your RH so that your VPD is 1.2. That won't bring back the dead tissue in the leaves but it will deduce the very high transpiration rates and that will help resolve the nutrient issue that you're looking at
This is awesome information right here! I seen why you are on the hunt for a "flower" light. Time to see if I can mod my lights and move the drivers out of the tent :)
 
This is awesome information right here! I seen why you are on the hunt for a "flower" light. Time to see if I can mod my lights and move the drivers out of the tent :)
If you can't easily move the driver out of the tent, move the exhaust vent to the driver. High heat, 4 inch, flexible, cloths dryer vent, from exhaust to above the driver.
 
If you can't easily move the driver out of the tent, move the exhaust vent to the driver. High heat, 4 inch, flexible, cloths dryer vent, from exhaust to above the driver.
Yeah that’s the current configuration:)
 
This is awesome information right here! I seen why you are on the hunt for a "flower" light. Time to see if I can mod my lights and move the drivers out of the tent :)
If you can get the driver higher in the tent, you'll eliminate/reduce the tendency to heat the tent.

Heat rises, right?

When my driver was just above the light, it warmed the tent. When I raised it to, say, 18" the impact of the driver was greatly reduced.

The reason to not take it completely out of the tent could be if you might want the heat in the tent at some point.
 
Well great news everyone, I am coming home from the hospital tomorrow! I am so stoked!!
We will see what survived and what did not. My wife did a great job so I think I wont have a lot to do.
I will make some photos and post them. Should I start another thread somewhere, I think this one is kinda getting off topic or is it good, what do you all think?
 
Well great news everyone, I am coming home from the hospital tomorrow! I am so stoked!!
We will see what survived and what did not. My wife did a great job so I think I wont have a lot to do.
I will make some photos and post them. Should I start another thread somewhere, I think this one is kinda getting off topic or is it good, what do you all think?
Glad you're "walking out"! Hope you're back at it pronto.

Re. starting a new thread. No need. While you were out getting repaired, we put a new roll of paper in the printer. You're good to go. ;-)
 
Glad you're "walking out"! Hope you're back at it pronto.

Re. starting a new thread. No need. While you were out getting repaired, we put a new roll of paper in the printer. You're good to go. ;-)
Thanks for the kind words, and all the. likes!! :kiss:
And you are so right, "WALKING OUT"!! and on both legs which I have not been able to do for 14 years!
This will be like starting life all over again.:surf:
 
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