Junior Grower First Time

[Skybound]

Great job Grower! FWIW, the plastic would not harm the roots any, they'd just grow around it. Those pot holes will do the absolute most justice for your soil. The media will lose more of the air there and help the bottom of the pot dry out and draw more water down to do the same. I expect your watering will increase, but keep weighing pots or feeling the weight in your hands to know when it's time to water. The WW's are looking great now and things will just get better.

Have you put any thought what media you'll continue your grow in? I expect these little pots will be good enough till they're 9" tall, so you have time, but do plan ahead some.

 

[FelipeBlu]

Do you have access to fabric pots? They are very good for aeration.

 

[Fogarty420]

Day 15, i plan to water it today as I will not in town for couple days.

WW2 tips are yellow, the yellow is just tiny bit but it is there. What can cause yellow tips?

 

[Fogarty420]

Do you have access to fabric pots? They are very good for aeration.

I don't see fabric pot around, and I search on internet, yes it is available. I can buy fabric pot in different sizes.

 

[Fogarty420]

Great job Grower! FWIW, the plastic would not harm the roots any, they'd just grow around it. Those pot holes will do the absolute most justice for your soil. The media will lose more of the air there and help the bottom of the pot dry out and draw more water down to do the same. I expect your watering will increase, but keep weighing pots or feeling the weight in your hands to know when it's time to water. The WW's are looking great now and things will just get better.

Have you put any thought what media you'll continue your grow in? I expect these little pots will be good enough till they're 9" tall, so you have time, but do plan ahead some.

I have no idea, i might want to try coco, but transplant is big for me, i afraid i'll mess them up.

If they grow healthy in this soil, should i change it?

 

[Skybound]

I have no idea, i might want to try coco, but transplant is big for me, i afraid i'll mess them up.

If they grow healthy in this soil, should i change it?

You're going to have to figure that out, I'm not sure what's available over there. I'd steer you towards anything hydro and help you build a solid feed program, but IDK what nutes you have access to. Soils grow slower, but are way more forgiving, so if you're away from home for long hours, you'll want to stay in soil, but like Noneyabiz was implying, you do need to build a plan for when you do transplant in a couple weeks yet. Did you read that Korean Farming technique he linked you to? I've seen that routine mentioned in high regards in other threads.

 

[Skybound]

WW2 tips are yellow, the yellow is just tiny bit but it is there. What can cause yellow tips?

There's nothing you will be able to do right away, but look around for gypsum to amend the soil with after the cotyledons wither, but as long as they're up and green, they will feed the seedling only and when the plant has enough roots and enough foliage to photosynthesize, it will transition to relying on the elements and not the cotyledons. That's when you're basically flying in the dark.

Edit - actually, you can use crushed egg shells that have been baked on very low heat for 2 hours. After baking them, pulverize the chunks into powder. IDK the process too well b/c I don't need to know (not a hydro problem), but if I was a soil grower, and wanted to work calcium into my dirt, I'd water in the powder, but you should subscribe to soil grow journals to have a more precise sources of info.

 

[FelipeBlu]

Don’t forget foliar feeding. Possible even before much root development.
You can use a very diluted mix of a good water-soluble fertilizer, like

 

[FelipeBlu]

Personally, I have been using a fertilizer named MegaCrop, which is a complete nutrient, including calcium, but their packaging may not be safe enough for you (cannabis leaves, etc).

Anyway, make sure to dilute (whatever you use) way down, like 1:10 or so of the recommended dose for fertigation, to avoid burning your plants. Spray them all over, including underneath the leaves, right before lights out.

You will be amazed

Edited to clarify dilution.

 

[Fogarty420]

You're going to have to figure that out, I'm not sure what's available over there. I'd steer you towards anything hydro and help you build a solid feed program, but IDK what nutes you have access to. Soils grow slower, but are way more forgiving, so if you're away from home for long hours, you'll want to stay in soil, but like Noneyabiz was implying, you do need to build a plan for when you do transplant in a couple weeks yet. Did you read that Korean Farming technique he linked you to? I've seen that routine mentioned in high regards in other threads.

This is the brand I can buy (and i suspect some of these are specialize for marijuana): Advanced Nutrients, Biobizz, General Hydroponic, Growth Technology, Blue Planet Nutrients.
I tried to contact them, and they recommended sensi grow and sensi bloom, part a + b, for about 38usd.

I read about the KNF, i got to say it is so complicated for a newbie like me. Maybe I am reading the wrong article?

 

[Fogarty420]

Personally, I have been using a fertilizer named MegaCrop, which is a complete nutrient, including calcium, but their packaging may not be safe enough for you (cannabis leaves, etc).

Anyway, make sure to dilute (whatever you use) way down, like 1:10 or so of the recommended dose for fertigation, to avoid burning your plants. Spray them all over, including underneath the leaves, right before lights out.

You will be amazed

Edited to clarify dilution.

you mean spray on the stem and the leaves?

 

[Skybound]

This is the brand I can buy (and i suspect some of these are specialize for marijuana): Advanced Nutrients, Biobizz, General Hydroponic, Growth Technology, Blue Planet Nutrients.
I tried to contact them, and they recommended sensi grow and sensi bloom, part a + b, for about 38usd.

I read about the KNF, i got to say it is so complicated for a newbie like me. Maybe I am reading the wrong article?

Do they sell PH and TDS meters? Also, do you have any study/experience with some chemistry? I didn't but was able to self learn as much as I needed to know to learn how to formulate my own nutrient recipes. I use a free app that has all of the various ram complexes that nutrients are made from, but in this app the user can also input custom solutions. Before committing to switching to hydro, or any brand of nutrients, I'd like you to click my bottom link in my signature and read most of page one to learn how to use said app. If you can learn this app, I will be able to help you really dial in a solid feeding regimen with most brands out there, except Advanced Nutes. Their formulations are not shared, likely due to their proprietary ingredients for the PH perfect line. But I used to use Gen Hydroponics and a brand like that will work great with the app. What is needed from a brand to use on the app is printed on the label of each bottle. It's called a "Guaranteed Analysis" and itemizes the percentages of each element in that bottle, plus also the weight of that bottle. AdvanceNutes lists some of their info, but definitely not all.

The reason this app is so important is because when you experience a deficiency, the app will reformulate the whole entire feed chart in such a way that all of the elements will be more in tuned with ideal elemental ppm for cannabis. This way, I can help you be more successful and more quickly, and all of my information on this topic has already been written into that thread, so in the event I die or stop writing, most of what I know is still accessible.

 

[Skybound]

No matter the direction you choose, both hydro or KNF/soil building, you're going to be inundated with new information, most of which will appear Greek for a couple months, but over time it'll slowly start to make more sense. Also, be warned that if you get into hydroponics, your water bill will dramatically increase, possibly enough to cause the water supplier to notice the difference. Such things used to concern growers in the USA when growing was illegal everywhere.

 

[FelipeBlu]

you mean spray on the stem and the leaves?

The leaves (mostly the underside), yes.

 

[Fogarty420]

Day 18, finally i am back.

So nervous to open the tent and find both of them died out. But they did good.

I really doubt and confuse before this, struggling to change the medium or not, but after i saw them grow well in this soil, i am quite sure they suffered from overwatering previously. Again, my bad.

Already order fabric pot in different size, it might take 1 week to reach my home. I assume I still got plenty of time?

 

[Skybound]

Already order fabric pot in different size, it might take 1 week to reach my home. I assume I still got plenty of time?

Yes, you still have plenty of time. In all honesty, your plants can stay in the white pots till they are at least 3 times as big as they are now, so definitely one or two weeks from now is well within that window.

 

[irie lion]

They are looking really great GWJ! Some awesome growth while you were gone They are looking so much happier now. It should be perfect timing, i'm sure they'll be ready by the time your fabric pots arrive. They are gonna love the new pots!

 

[Fogarty420]

Day 19,

Just water both of them. WW2 got a bit droop, hope it will recover later.

 

[Skybound]

Now that you have the concept of wet/dry cycling the root zone understood, and generally how heavy the small pots feel when saturated and when dry, you can discontinue weighing the pots each day if you're confident in your ability to feel the difference in your hands. The droop can mean too wet or too dry. A sign that all is well is when the leaf tips are reaching upwards towards the light beginning a couple hours into lights on.

Also, gradually increase air flow across the plants. They're each a bit bigger and can be exposed to more air movement. The added air movement helps in cell growth as well as transpiration which controls the flow of calcium. Not a lot more air, but if you can increase air flow maybe as much as 25% more that would be cool.

 

[Fogarty420]

Now that you have the concept of wet/dry cycling the root zone understood, and generally how heavy the small pots feel when saturated and when dry, you can discontinue weighing the pots each day if you're confident in your ability to feel the difference in your hands. The droop can mean too wet or too dry. A sign that all is well is when the leaf tips are reaching upwards towards the light beginning a couple hours into lights on.

Also, gradually increase air flow across the plants. They're each a bit bigger and can be exposed to more air movement. The added air movement helps in cell growth as well as transpiration which controls the flow of calcium. Not a lot more air, but if you can increase air flow maybe as much as 25% more that would be cool.

I check ww2 and it already recovered. I think the cause is underwater, before I back home and check them they already exposed under light for 3 hours. Will try to estimate weight blindy from now on, but will weighing them before watering them.