Jon's New Pared Down Setup Soil Grow: 3 Photo & 1 Auto With New Dedicated Auto Rig

GHOST TRAIN HAZE UPDATE
FINAL Heavy Training Session
Setting Her Up For the Stretch
A Pictorial Step by Step Tutorial
September 14
Grow/Veg Day 60


To my surprise, I have actually gotten a couple requests to show my final training set up for the stretch in as much detail as possible. Well, today was going to be training day for both the GTH and the Hulkberry. Instead, we decided to do just the Ghost, and leave the Hulkberry til her next watering either tomorrow or Thursday and let her grow a bit more to catch up to the others. So I went ahead and documented my process step by step, and here it is for those who are interested. Btw - I don't recommend this method to any sane person. The ONLY reason I do it this way is due to my reality. If I were walking I would use a screen as it simply makes things way easier. What I try to do is to scrog an individual plant using just the plant. And yes, it's very very effective. It's also the most work intensive way to train a plant that you could possibly choose. It takes constant, daily checking and working just about for all of veg, from around Day 14 on. And also yes, when you're done the hard part and all completely set up for the stretch and you look at what you've done, it does (gotta be honest here) make you feel like there is nothing you can't do. That's about how I am feeling right now, and I believe by the last picture it will become CRYSTAL clear as to why. Here we go.

The first picture is the plant as she began the process, before I touched her. You guys saw this yesterday but I include it for the sake of the timeline.

The next picture is the first step. Work the outside ring of buds to completion. I pick one of the largest main branches (not colas, they're all large), and decide that's the starting point. We begin flattening, pulling out as far as possible, and as we get that branch set, before we move on to the next, we do a primary defoliation on just that branch. I use skewers with a piece of scotch tape around a twist tie that is tied and taped near the top of the skewer. You will see them in the pictures. Make a hook on one end, find your spot to hook, bring the branch to where you want it, and push the skewer into the dirt firmly so it stays flat. If it won't, add another skewer at a spot lower on the branch so you are doubling up the tie down. Be patient. And even if you use mono-silicic acid, I strongly suggest you go slowly and carefully so as to not do any unintentional supercropping or worse. With your larger branches it likely will be necessary to use more than one skewer to hold the branch as flat as you want, but if you like you can save that for the tweak step. I do. So cut the leaves you need to on the branch to expose every single bud site no matter what you have to cut. The name of the game here is cutting, not tucking. It only works as intended if you are not shy in this part, and have no fear. I assure you, in fact guarantee it, that in a couple days this plant will look like this never happened and beyond that. The leaves will grow back. There are PLENTY to power the plant. Take anything that shades a cola, ie, every single emerging node of new growth. It can be scary and daunting but trust me, it'll be more than okay. This is essential to the process. There are three goals here: to widen/to flatten/to max bud sites. That's it. By taking the leaves I describe you are opening every potential bud to the same amount of light, because you're ending up with a perfectly flat canopy. Also by the time you're done you will see that those bare spots that scared you cuz you followed these directions to the letter and it seemed so bare will be filled in by the branches above it from the middle. Don't worry. But then you want what you open up, all those buds, to actually become legit. And believe me, there are a trillion. More than you will believe when you look. You gotta defol in this process. So the plant, at this point, needs more moving air than she's had to this point, and I will be rearranging fans and engaging the big boy fan when the Hulkster gets this treatment. But you have to defol both for air flow through the plant and also for proper growth of the nodes you just exposed. So in this picture I have gone around the plant one time completely til I got around to my starting point. I go in a circle, not jumping ahead, and this is also my strong recommendation if you're nuts and try this. Reason is that you don't know what else you're going to expose as each branch finds a home. There will be much more than you anticipate. So it's one by one, rotating the plant as you go so you are never reaching and always looking down from above on the plant. Your eyes are the sun and if you see a bud site it sees you. Light = Growth. No exceptions. As you can see, this leaves a flat ring on the outside and a tall round mass of growth you still have to deal with in the center of the ring.

Picture 3 is halfway done the next step, which is working the center. I think @Tokin Roll would agree with me that this is the part that can be confusing and leave you in fits trying to figure it out. What the hell are you going to do with all that? This is what you do: Start hunting bare spots. Or spots where you have a few branches pulled out with hardly any nodes. And pull it out and to there so it crosses as little emerging growth as possible. Get creative, it's necessary here. I did a little very small branch supercropping, some bigger branch supercropping, and several "half supercrops" where I didn't really break the interior cell wall but pinched the branch just enough to place it where I wanted it. You can also cross other branches here in the middle it's no problem. Just don't put extra tension on one you already tied down. Again, you defoliate as you do this step too. Same thing. Every single site, if not it gets cut. I probably took off in the neigborhood of 100 leaves in this session. At the same time as you do this you are finally getting to see what you have in the middle of the plant. The defol targets will become obvious by now. So when I get to this step, I pick a half and do that half first. Then the other. Here's the first half done in this pic.

Picture 4 is all the way done the tie downs and defol and the whole plant is complete. All I do here is simply the identical process on the remaining half center growth mass. But also before this picture was the tweak step. So you're finally done, you think, and you're wondering if this is gonna work. Now you tweak. If there is a branch that has a bit of a hill in it, flatten it out if you can. Pick very carefully through the plant seeking new growth that you missed on the first pass defol. When you're done this step you are 90% done. Check the sum of what you're looking at. See if a paper plate will sit flat on the canopy you have established. Eliminate bulges. Tweak like crazy till you're satisfied. Also by now, you should be able to see your original topping spot in the middle of the plant. This had led you to....

Picture 5 - the undercarriage step. Now you're going to clean out underneath the plant, exactly as many of us have seen many do many times. This part is easy! When this is done you're all the way DONE. I don't believe this cleaning out of the undercarriage is necessary to explain, that one we all know.

Picture 6 shows the original topping spot of the plant, her only one, using Uncle Ben's method and topping between nodes 2 and 3 after 5 or 6 is out. That's where all this craziness got started.


Picture 7 shows something extremely beautiful. A PERFECTLY flat canopy.

Picture 8 made my jaw hit the floor, and it was at this point I decided OK, you may have developed a skill or two. I'm going to let you guys figure out for yourselves why. But when you look at it, remember that this is not an auto. This is a badass, completely mature, 60 day old, ready to rock and roll, PHOTO, and one of the baddest sativas on the planet. The picture shows something that has to be seen to be believed.

So what should be the end result?

- As close to a perfectly flat canopy as possible
- Every new growth site exposed to direct light
- Air moving supremely through the plant with no difficulty
- A clean undercarriage
- And DOZENS of skewers, lmao!


This is exactly what I try to establish before the flip. You have all the buds pulled out in a ring and all the center pulled out or filling in gaps. And all of it gets exactly the same amount of light if you have done it well and correctly. Everything is well secured and not moving or going to get pulled out from the upward force of the plant stretching (push those skewers in deep!). This is going to allow you to train through the stretch. That's another day.

Phew!

Oh, and then there's Picture 9, which it the results of my other effort today, to prep the grow room and tighten it up for mixing a bunch of soil and prepping the pots for the outdoor grow.

BONUS PICTURE 10, I tossed in cuz it's amazing and it brought me back down to earth. Lol. This picture was sent to me today and shows one of my Oregon Yoda's four greenhouses and a tiny fraction of his current grow. This is serious as hell and will make you salivate. He has four long troughs of soil in each greenhouse, front to back. This is half of two in one greenhouse if that helps you see the scale he's operating on. The dude has used the same soil for the last 10 years. @Emilya would LOVE this dude. I thought it the perfect picture to complete this post.

That's it in as brief a nutshell as I can. Hope it's detailed enough. Commentary welcome and encouraged as are criticism, critique, or questions. Thanks.


Ghost Train Haze Sept 13.jpg


Ghost Train Haze Outer Ring First Final Training.jpg


Almost There.jpg


Finished from the top.jpg


The undercarriage also cleaned out thoroughly at the same time when you can reach all the usel...jpg


Top spot.jpg


Flat canopy.jpg


Low canopy.jpg


Tighten up grow room.jpg


One of four of my Yoda in Oregon greenhouses showing 2 of 4 dirt troughs end to end.jpg
 
Hulkster's Turn in the Barrel
Ghost Train Haze the Morning After
The Girls Ready to GO!
Grow/Veg Day 61

So today the Hulkster got the same treatment as the Ghost Train did yesterday.
Now all three are done. We now let them grow and do nothing and watch and wait. Yay. A little break. I've been working my arse off. I took it just a tad easier on the Hulkster, mostly because she has the tightest, densest nodal growth of the three plants. This must be the indica pheno of BB#3 (this is a total guess, anyone who's grown this, any help?) I'm afraid of this one getting out of control and going apesh--. She's gonna be a bushy beast, and probably the least stretcher of the group. Again, that's a semi-educated guess. The reality is that I really have no idea whatsoever what is going to happen with any of these plants. :laughtwo::laughtwo::laughtwo::laughtwo: I do know, however, that they are super healthy, very mature, and whatever they give me in terms of yield should be half decent if I can keep this going.

There's also a follow up picture of the Ghost Train the morning after she got butchered. You can clearly see it isn't taking long for her to start bouncing back. All three of those trainings were fairly severe, it's going to take around three or four more days before they look like we want again, but they will, I assure you.

The picture of all three girls shows them pretty much the way they should look when I flip, in terms of flat, even canopies across all three plants. Over the next ten days we will tweak to keep things completely even and flat for the day of the flip. Then all hell breaks loose, and then we'll see if I REALLY have skills or not. Heh.

Enjoy the porn.

1. Hulkster all mad at me and shi-
2. GTH starting to forgive me
3. The Gang and their bad attitude

Hulksters turn.jpg


GTH one day after training.jpg


And voila.jpg
 
You really have taken this “growing thing “ to another level. I mean your game is STRONG. But you are always so damn busy you don’t message me anymore. I don’t take it personal Amigo. Haha. Rock on dude. You’re really killing it.

NTH
Lol. I know, I'm terrible, sorry man, I'm getting my butt kicked here. My electric wheelchair decided to take a crap so on top of everything else I'm in a Scooter grocery store type cart loaner thing. Ugh. Like going from a new Lexus to a used Pinto. Gimme a few man. I do know where you live you know. Lmao!!!!
 
Ghost Train Haze Training Demo Continued
2 Days Post Final Aggressive Butchering
Decisions on Watering Until the Flip
September 16
Grow/Veg Day 62


If you are following this and you're just a little newer to growing than me and are still working on how to effectively train, I hope this post helps you out. For this GTH training focus I am trying to show you the following:
- How quickly a healthy girl bounces back from even a butchering as aggressive as that one was
- The immense amount of new growth (new buds!) generated by the method in just 48 hours
- How much new growth you get sometimes off even one branch and what that specifically looks like
- The effectiveness of super securing your tie downs at the point of this final training displayed by showing you the canopy of the plant and how it looks 48 hours post training session
- The value of extremely targeted small new leaf defoliation and the difference between doing it and not doing it


My hope is that this little series of pictures will show exactly those things. Here we go:

Picture 1 is 48 hours ago when we butchered her
Picture 2 is today, overhead full plant shot
Picture 3 is a zoom into the middle of the plant to show you all the new growth just inside the outer ring we made the other day. Notice how everything is completely exposed to full light and not shadowed. Not even by a small, new leaf from new growth right next to it. That is because we clipped just a few of those kinds of new leaves if they were covering a new growth site, and we attended to a daily tucking as well. I don't want to take any more leaves from her now, so the leaves I take I want to keep to a bare minimum. I took maybe five or six of the little ones, and nothing else. I tucked maybe two dozen leaves, including in the outer ring. The mono-silicic acid that has been fed weekly to this plant has worked extremely well, and one of the benefits is that it allows you to be real aggressive with bending the stems of leaves you wish to tuck. You can go 140 degrees sometimes and not only do the stems not break, they stay where you put them a lot better than in the past when I did not use it. They have a flexibility, strength, and almost a sort of plasticine feel to them, and it helps a ton with training. We all know the joy of those leaves that damnit, just won't stay down out of the way after tucking and you don't wanna clip it. Lol.
Picture 4 is a maximum zoom into the plant and onto just one branch of it. Notice how many new bud sites are on just this one branch. Again, same as the whole, tucking and micro-defoliation, emphasis on micro. Expose that stuff, that's why you butchered her in the first place. It also gives you a pretty good idea of what your nodal spacing may be when you start budding.
Pictures 5-7 are a three shot timeline series showing Butchering Day > 24 hours later > 48 hours later. Yes two of these are repeat photos but I want you to see the day by day in order.
Picture 8 is the canopy today, 48 hours post butchering and setting it how we wanted it. The idea is to make sure the bonds holding down and maintaining our entire outer ring are strong enough that it allows the center growth to catch up or even get a bit taller than the outer ring. We want them as tall as possible in the next 8 days. When we flip we want as close to every bud site top being at the same canopy level and essentially look like now, only these new growth center buds that we have generated are now going to stay in the center and be our center fill in buds inside our rings of outer buds. The result in a perfect world is a great scrog on one plant that's easily rotated but is also very high yielding and the buds come out all the same size. LOL. Sure, that'll happen.

When I began training and defoliating it was very daunting to me. I had no clue which leaves to take or why, or how many, or when. I barely knew what topping was. As I learned these basic skills, every time, every skill, I came to realize pretty quickly that all that fear and trepidation and hesitation, and all the mistakes I made as a result, were mostly unnecessary other than as an unavoidable part of the learning curve. That's cuz every single one is easy!!! A lot of the literature will paint a vastly different picture than reality and much of it can be kind of scary and confusing to a new grower. It was for me. Then you just do something cuz someone you trust and leaned on convinced you it would be okay, and hey, it was!! So you start doing that thing and it becomes second nature and you realize you never had to be scared in the first place. I think many of us can relate to that, right? Well this display and training that may seem so daunting and maybe something you look at and say how could you do that to the plant? and all that - that's what I'd be saying if I saw this back on my first grow - is to show you, hopefully, that even this stuff is a piece of cake. There's not a person in this forum who is not capable of duplicating exactly this if they so choose.

Which brings me to another point -- I told you only an insane person would train this way cuz the workload and all that stuff, and I get that obviously. My buddy from Pa who grows called me this morning after I sent him a picture and said I am so lucky to work at home on my computer cuz if I had a regular job there's no WAY I could do that training on three plants. Lol. But.....there is one very big upside to this method I didn't mention the other day. It allows you to grow very short, very high yielding plants. There are so many folks who have small tents or low ceiling grow spaces or just want to keep their plants as small as they can but they also want great yield, and I think this is one excellent way to achieve that. Hey guys, if you are growing autos only because they stay small or you have limited space, here's a way to do it with photos instead and still have plants that end up no taller than an auto! Plus it's really pretty to look at. We have a serious fireworks display in store as the budding gets going. The show is getting closer!! :snowboating:

Watering Until the Flip and Detail on the Schedule

The Ghost Train and the Hulkster are both Fox Farms nutes plants. Regarding the FF feeding chart, we have been on repeat week 4 feeding for a bit here as prescribed. Week five would begin Monday, but first we are going to flush the plants, on whatever the first day is next week that they need watering. The watering after that will be the Week 5 feeding as prescribed on the chart. It should be noted that I am not using the Sledgehammer product in the flush as the chart suggests. Not cuz I wouldn't, just cuz I don't have it and don't think it's really a necessary additive to buy. If someone can convince me it's absolutely necessary go for it but please tell me why, lol, and muchas gracias. The Fox Farms chart requires a flush at this point in the process, something we would do to any plant that's fed chemicals before flipping them. I am not sure if it's required on a plant grown in living soil, ie the Slurricane, but none of these plants has been flushed yet and it won't hurt her to be flushed one time before we flip and will likely help. So Monday will be veg day 66. We flush. By Thursday they will need water and we give them week five of the feeding chart. That will be day 69. We flip on Day 70, which is good for my OCD bones cuz it's a Friday, it's a perfectly round number that's easy to remember, and I won't have to look at old posts to find out what day I'm on. :yahoo:

Jeez guys, we're 62 days into veg with a ton of training and not once has any of these three plants had the slightest health issue whatsoever. In Jonland that's almost impossible and I have no idea how I got so lucky. I will credit the genetics in large part though. Get your seeds from a good breeder with a good reputation that people you trust use, that is my strong suggestion. It saves you tons of hassles if nothing else.

And on we go......

Finished from the top.jpg


Overhead Full Plant GTH September 16 2 days after butchering her.jpg


First Zoom now we are inside the ring looking at all new growth in the center.jpg


Full Zoom to focus on just one cola branch and all it gives you.jpg


Finished from the top.jpg


GTH one day after training.jpg


Overhead Full Plant GTH September 16 2 days after butchering her.jpg


Hardly a rouge in the canopy.jpg
 
You have really taken this to the next level Jon. Most of us don't have enough time in our day to be able to devote so much of it to each plant, and I can't imagine working this hard in my room of 12 plants... it would be another full time job! So I make compromises and end up with plants a bit less dense than yours, and a bit taller, but in sorter time. I get my numbers from volume, you are getting yours through skill, patience and hard work and you end up with high yield short plants very manageable to you from your chair. My multiple hats are off to you my friend, great job!
:thumb:
 
Autoflower Check In
Day 62
@Mars Hydro Outdoor Rig


Quickly on the autos....there are two Chunky pics, a full plant and a bud closeup. Note the complete lack of one speck of frost on Chunky. This is not ideal, lol. By now we should be seeing some level of frost. You can see the leaves are not fully back to green and at this point these very top three or four nodes worth of leaves may have been too damaged to come back. The lower ones did pretty well, but there's nothing else I can do for her, so there she is. It's only 18-22% bud anyway, but even at those low numbers where the hell is my frost? I'm thinking that my compromising the plant for a bit at the point when it happened in budding was perhaps the very wrongest time to have a deficiency like that, especially for an auto, and that that somehow turned off the frost switch in addition to yellowing the leaves. Guess we'll see if she gets any. In the meantime the buds ARE growing and joining together and getting bigger and starting to look like actual long thin sativa buds. This tells us we did indeed fix the issue since the plant is revved back up on the bud development and no longer stalled. Poor girl. We may just end up with a lot of great looking and great smelling bud that doesn't really get you very high, but we'll see. I'm a little pissed about the mistake as this plant was on it's way to being my most epic auto yet, but hey, I am still holding out hope that she is just a long budder and will still let me let her go another whole month. If that is the case she will have a gigantic yield. Keeping my fingers crossed. The four SA pics are two to show her buds in her majestic silver beauty, and then a two shot comparison of the bud we back cut, now four days removed from the cut. The comparison pic was as close as I could get to having just the two buds to compare in the frame. Any difference? You tell me. Nothing earth shattering but maybe a little. Then there's one picture of both the girls together.

The new rig works well.....

Photos:


1-2 Chunky
3-6 Sour Apple
7 Both Girls

Heh.

Chunky bud top.jpg


Almost looking like actual buds.jpg


Shining Silver Glory.jpg


Shining Silver Glory 2.jpg


Back Cut Bud Top.jpg


Bud Back Cut Comparison.jpg


The Girls Who Hang Out Behind the WalMart Smoking Cigarettes.jpg
 
Hey Jon she'll show her frost in due time I'm thinking. I've had one or two that didn't frost up much, but was nice and resinous, if that makes sense...so even if she doesn't, you may have a pleasant surprise
 
Friday Weekend Special
Phototown Today, September 17
Training/Stretch Prep Continued
Setting Up For Ultimate Temperature Control and Why
Grow/Veg Day 63

7 Days Until the Flip

I said the other day that now all we do is wait and watch these girls grow. That was not quite accurate, because in this time frame we are actually doing several things. Here's basically what we are attending to now:

- Testing of temperature setting and infrastructure prep for the girls going into flower. Each day in this pre-flip time frame, I am messing with my variety of infrastructure controls for affecting the tent temperature. Including AC level and fan speed, exhaust fan speed, extent to which garage door stays open allowing outside environment/extent to which house door stays open allowing house conditions to affect garage/when can I turn the AC off - you guys get the point. I change it by two or three degrees, and have varied between letting them go at around 80-82 degrees, and where they've been at 74-76 degrees, and a bit cooler at 68-70 degrees. Each of these I let be for a whole day, and those are roughly the three ranges I can pretty much do in the day hours, as to get finer than that, although nice, is not really possible with the tech I have. I then observe the plants on each of these days, and what I am looking for is, where do they like it the best? You can see the response to temperature just like you can see the response to light level if you look closely. Check out your leaves. When do they look the best? Praying a bit. Happy looking, not droopy. Etc. Check the rate of growth. Each day at this point, given the butchering they got, we should see definitive bounceback growth at a pretty consistent and steady rate. As we showed yesterday in the timeline pics and as you see further in today's pictures, that is exactly what we're getting. This is what exponential growth looks like, and it is exactly what you want. At this point with this health level and the repair they know they need right now, they are putting their energy between both growth and repair. The butchering was aggressive. The plant has much it wants to repair. The point is, even dividing it's energy between repair and maintaining growth, the plant still shows daily significant growth increase. Her colors remain constant and sweet. So we watch and see if we can see any difference in temperature response and if so we figure ok that's our sweet spot until the flip. Why do this when it's only a week from the flip? Because if you find the sweet spot in veg at the end, you are going to know what sweet spot you are looking for in flower. This is when the temperature becomes a major player in the equation and you can have all kinds of fun with it depending on how brave you are. We're talking colors in your bud. You want deeeeeep dark purples? You want glowing magenta and yellows mixed with deep reds? I do. If you just left the temps as is for budding and let the night and no lights be responsible for the night temp drop, that will work just fine. Your buds will be great. And probably basically green. Versus your more fun option: get these girls cold at night. This is the best way I know of to generate super colors in your buds and sugar leaves and make the buds you generate have serious bag appeal. I like buds that look like that, how about you guys? So how cold do you let it get? Upper 60s? Mid to low 60s? Sure low 60s will have some effect. But you could also choose to go for it. I went down with Sadie the Jelly Rancher in my last grow as low as 58.3 degrees overnight. That's pretty cold. The plant laughed at me and said I could borrow her coat if I needed it. I KNOW they can take lower temperature than that even, and in this grow I have every intention of displaying this. We are going to 55 degrees at night territory. HA. And trust me it's going to be okay, and what it will give us in terms of color will be quite the display. You do not begin the temps that low at night at the start of budding. This temp treatment is for the last half of flower, not the first. In the first part there is still enough leaf breathing and working and sweating going on that you want to maintain the temps as you have, maybe with a general lessening of four-ish degrees, so my 76 degrees days will become 72 degree days and the corresponding nigttime temps. As if fall is coming! (Plants are lovely, but stupid, and easily deceived, lol) Once you get to about week 5 of flower (assume this is halfway through based on the assumption of a 70 day flower cycle - gotta pick a number, that one seems the most logical based on our strains), you begin the lower temp treatment. I ease it on over the five weeks as gradually as possible, which is not as much as I'd like. But we're fixing that too with our infrastructure addition.

By the way, if you couldn't get that low with that AC unit at night before, how are you doing it now? HA! Cuz here's the greatest infrastructure move ever for this style of grow - I add the second AC uniti!!! There is a large rectangular port at the bottom of the tent opposite the side the existing AC unit is on. I am simply adding the second unit at week 5 and then will have a 5000 btu unit on both non-door sides of the tent. This will allow me to do whatever I want.

See, good infrastructure options and a lot of thinking ahead makes you feel like god. Laugh or call me a control freak but it's true. And it's a real good feeling and I would argue many of us experience this but maybe don't want to say it. I'll say it. I feel like God. And I fricking LOVE it.

I'll display the process of adding an AC unit at that time. It's so easy it's insane.

Then we are also now in MAX TUCKING mode.
This is where you find out just to what extent you should go talk to a professional about your OCD issues. It's another element that makes this growing style cumbersome for anyone who has a life. Lol. In this time it is very important to NOT take any more leaves. Let the plant recover and grow. Hopefully over the next week you'll see it get fairly bushy again going into the flip. We took a LOT of leaves. They grow back, but you gotta let them. So tuck your damn arse off. Do it daily. I do it three times a day. The goal is to keep that new growth exposed to light while the leaves are growing out on all of it and re-blocking sites you had previously un-blocked. This will happen very quickly and it will keep happening, lol. The difference between doing this tucking and not doing it may not be dramatic, but it depends on how you define that word. It makes enough of one that you can see it visually in photographs. That's dramatic enough for me and means it's significant enough to attend to. It really helps to maintain similar growth rates across the sum of your new growth, which is elemental to this method.

So continues our march towards the flip. Monday we flush. Friday we flip them. If the plants get thirsty this weekend by Sunday it is okay, we let them experience an extra dry day and get really thirsty. They'll like the flush better that way. I personally like to flush when the soil is dry as I believe I will eliminate more salts via gravity if the first water dump is onto dry roots. I cannot back that up with science, it's just a feeling so I try to do it that way. Hey @Emilya, you may very well have some info/science on this? Possibly? If so could you please share, professor? In this case the watering worked out perfectly for it.
And that's about it! Let's go to the porn.

Picture 1 is the Slurricane starting to look disheveled.
Picture 2 is the Hulkster, also getting messy.
Picture 3 is the Ghost Train Haze, my favorite of the three and I am betting my highest yielder. Note: this is her state of being now on her third day post butchering, so you can add this one to the timeline.
Picture 4 is a perspective shot of the girls attempting to show how much space they take up in the 5x5. Now look at that and project the stretch. This tent is going to be filled. I'm worried about not having enough space. Since I control this it's perfectly fine, but here's the reality: there are so many bud sites to control and keep separated enough that if I intentionally keep the circumference of the plant smaller through the stretch, I will be compromising buds due to being too tight. They need to stretch out. That means space. Heh.

Have a great weekend everyone! Go Birds!

Slurricane getting disheveled.jpg


Hulkster getting disheveled.jpg


Ghost Train Haze Oh My.jpg


Perspective of tent for the gang.jpg
 
Monday we flush. Friday we flip them. If the plants get thirsty this weekend by Sunday it is okay, we let them experience an extra dry day and get really thirsty. They'll like the flush better that way. I personally like to flush when the soil is dry as I believe I will eliminate more salts via gravity if the first water dump is onto dry roots. I cannot back that up with science, it's just a feeling so I try to do it that way. Hey @Emilya, you may very well have some info/science on this? Possibly? If so could you please share, professor?
Letting the soil dry out an extra day is oftentimes very beneficial to the plant, in that it brings oxygen down even deeper into the core and helps to invigorate roots that have mostly been under water during the normal wet/dry cycles, so also scheduling it around a flush makes sense, especially this one going into the flip. The salts dissolve rather easily as soon as the water starts flowing, and warm water helps almost as much as using sledgehammer it seems... but I am not sure why the soil being a bit dryer is going to help or hurt the brute force process that has to happen. This is of course assuming that in the overly dry soil you are not just dumping 3x the container size through there, but are waiting a bit for that first bit of water to soak in and expand out into the organics, working on saturating the entire container in the process, just like happens in a good watering.
 
Letting the soil dry out an extra day is oftentimes very beneficial to the plant, in that it brings oxygen down even deeper into the core and helps to invigorate roots that have mostly been under water during the normal wet/dry cycles, so also scheduling it around a flush makes sense, especially this one going into the flip. The salts dissolve rather easily as soon as the water starts flowing, and warm water helps almost as much as using sledgehammer it seems... but I am not sure why the soil being a bit dryer is going to help or hurt the brute force process that has to happen. This is of course assuming that in the overly dry soil you are not just dumping 3x the container size through there, but are waiting a bit for that first bit of water to soak in and expand out into the organics, working on saturating the entire container in the process, just like happens in a good watering.
Interesting, I just came in here to see if you responded cuz I'm ready to get going on the flush and wanted to ask a few questions. Thanks for this, I get it and it helps. Also helps to know that I have to go slowly, a gallon at a time, with dry out in between, 15 times per plant for 2 5 gallon pots. That's essentially what you're saying, right? Ok, that sucks and takes forever but I get it and I'll do it. Here's the $10,000 question: Do I ph each gallon to 6.3? And since I am a molasses user, normally I would flush with it. Is there are reason you know of to not do that?

Thanks Em, really helps a lot.
 
Friday Weekend Special
Phototown Today, September 17
Training/Stretch Prep Continued
Setting Up For Ultimate Temperature Control and Why
Grow/Veg Day 63

7 Days Until the Flip

I said the other day that now all we do is wait and watch these girls grow. That was not quite accurate, because in this time frame we are actually doing several things. Here's basically what we are attending to now:

- Testing of temperature setting and infrastructure prep for the girls going into flower. Each day in this pre-flip time frame, I am messing with my variety of infrastructure controls for affecting the tent temperature. Including AC level and fan speed, exhaust fan speed, extent to which garage door stays open allowing outside environment/extent to which house door stays open allowing house conditions to affect garage/when can I turn the AC off - you guys get the point. I change it by two or three degrees, and have varied between letting them go at around 80-82 degrees, and where they've been at 74-76 degrees, and a bit cooler at 68-70 degrees. Each of these I let be for a whole day, and those are roughly the three ranges I can pretty much do in the day hours, as to get finer than that, although nice, is not really possible with the tech I have. I then observe the plants on each of these days, and what I am looking for is, where do they like it the best? You can see the response to temperature just like you can see the response to light level if you look closely. Check out your leaves. When do they look the best? Praying a bit. Happy looking, not droopy. Etc. Check the rate of growth. Each day at this point, given the butchering they got, we should see definitive bounceback growth at a pretty consistent and steady rate. As we showed yesterday in the timeline pics and as you see further in today's pictures, that is exactly what we're getting. This is what exponential growth looks like, and it is exactly what you want. At this point with this health level and the repair they know they need right now, they are putting their energy between both growth and repair. The butchering was aggressive. The plant has much it wants to repair. The point is, even dividing it's energy between repair and maintaining growth, the plant still shows daily significant growth increase. Her colors remain constant and sweet. So we watch and see if we can see any difference in temperature response and if so we figure ok that's our sweet spot until the flip. Why do this when it's only a week from the flip? Because if you find the sweet spot in veg at the end, you are going to know what sweet spot you are looking for in flower. This is when the temperature becomes a major player in the equation and you can have all kinds of fun with it depending on how brave you are. We're talking colors in your bud. You want deeeeeep dark purples? You want glowing magenta and yellows mixed with deep reds? I do. If you just left the temps as is for budding and let the night and no lights be responsible for the night temp drop, that will work just fine. Your buds will be great. And probably basically green. Versus your more fun option: get these girls cold at night. This is the best way I know of to generate super colors in your buds and sugar leaves and make the buds you generate have serious bag appeal. I like buds that look like that, how about you guys? So how cold do you let it get? Upper 60s? Mid to low 60s? Sure low 60s will have some effect. But you could also choose to go for it. I went down with Sadie the Jelly Rancher in my last grow as low as 58.3 degrees overnight. That's pretty cold. The plant laughed at me and said I could borrow her coat if I needed it. I KNOW they can take lower temperature than that even, and in this grow I have every intention of displaying this. We are going to 55 degrees at night territory. HA. And trust me it's going to be okay, and what it will give us in terms of color will be quite the display. You do not begin the temps that low at night at the start of budding. This temp treatment is for the last half of flower, not the first. In the first part there is still enough leaf breathing and working and sweating going on that you want to maintain the temps as you have, maybe with a general lessening of four-ish degrees, so my 76 degrees days will become 72 degree days and the corresponding nigttime temps. As if fall is coming! (Plants are lovely, but stupid, and easily deceived, lol) Once you get to about week 5 of flower (assume this is halfway through based on the assumption of a 70 day flower cycle - gotta pick a number, that one seems the most logical based on our strains), you begin the lower temp treatment. I ease it on over the five weeks as gradually as possible, which is not as much as I'd like. But we're fixing that too with our infrastructure addition.

By the way, if you couldn't get that low with that AC unit at night before, how are you doing it now? HA! Cuz here's the greatest infrastructure move ever for this style of grow - I add the second AC uniti!!! There is a large rectangular port at the bottom of the tent opposite the side the existing AC unit is on. I am simply adding the second unit at week 5 and then will have a 5000 btu unit on both non-door sides of the tent. This will allow me to do whatever I want.

See, good infrastructure options and a lot of thinking ahead makes you feel like god. Laugh or call me a control freak but it's true. And it's a real good feeling and I would argue many of us experience this but maybe don't want to say it. I'll say it. I feel like God. And I fricking LOVE it.

I'll display the process of adding an AC unit at that time. It's so easy it's insane.

Then we are also now in MAX TUCKING mode. This is where you find out just to what extent you should go talk to a professional about your OCD issues. It's another element that makes this growing style cumbersome for anyone who has a life. Lol. In this time it is very important to NOT take any more leaves. Let the plant recover and grow. Hopefully over the next week you'll see it get fairly bushy again going into the flip. We took a LOT of leaves. They grow back, but you gotta let them. So tuck your damn arse off. Do it daily. I do it three times a day. The goal is to keep that new growth exposed to light while the leaves are growing out on all of it and re-blocking sites you had previously un-blocked. This will happen very quickly and it will keep happening, lol. The difference between doing this tucking and not doing it may not be dramatic, but it depends on how you define that word. It makes enough of one that you can see it visually in photographs. That's dramatic enough for me and means it's significant enough to attend to. It really helps to maintain similar growth rates across the sum of your new growth, which is elemental to this method.

So continues our march towards the flip. Monday we flush. Friday we flip them. If the plants get thirsty this weekend by Sunday it is okay, we let them experience an extra dry day and get really thirsty. They'll like the flush better that way. I personally like to flush when the soil is dry as I believe I will eliminate more salts via gravity if the first water dump is onto dry roots. I cannot back that up with science, it's just a feeling so I try to do it that way. Hey @Emilya, you may very well have some info/science on this? Possibly? If so could you please share, professor? In this case the watering worked out perfectly for it.
And that's about it! Let's go to the porn.

Picture 1 is the Slurricane starting to look disheveled.
Picture 2 is the Hulkster, also getting messy.
Picture 3 is the Ghost Train Haze, my favorite of the three and I am betting my highest yielder. Note: this is her state of being now on her third day post butchering, so you can add this one to the timeline.
Picture 4 is a perspective shot of the girls attempting to show how much space they take up in the 5x5. Now look at that and project the stretch. This tent is going to be filled. I'm worried about not having enough space. Since I control this it's perfectly fine, but here's the reality: there are so many bud sites to control and keep separated enough that if I intentionally keep the circumference of the plant smaller through the stretch, I will be compromising buds due to being too tight. They need to stretch out. That means space. Heh.

Have a great weekend everyone! Go Birds!

Slurricane getting disheveled.jpg


Hulkster getting disheveled.jpg


Ghost Train Haze Oh My.jpg


Perspective of tent for the gang.jpg


looking good.

have you ever used white space ?
 
Interesting, I just came in here to see if you responded cuz I'm ready to get going on the flush and wanted to ask a few questions. Thanks for this, I get it and it helps. Also helps to know that I have to go slowly, a gallon at a time, with dry out in between, 15 times per plant for 2 5 gallon pots. That's essentially what you're saying, right? Ok, that sucks and takes forever but I get it and I'll do it. Here's the $10,000 question: Do I ph each gallon to 6.3? And since I am a molasses user, normally I would flush with it. Is there are reason you know of to not do that?

Thanks Em, really helps a lot.
There are a couple of reasons that we need to pH adjust. First, if your water source is horrible and you are way out of the normal limits for human consumption, such as over 9 and under 4, then of course you would need to pH adjust anything hitting your soil.

The second reason we need to adjust pH is when we are using nutes that need to be within a certain pH range, because of the way they were manufactured and brought to you in a bottle. The nutrients don't break free of their chelated bonds and become available to the plants unless the pH of the medium is within a certain range.

Other than that, the plants don't care what the pH is, although as a sidenote we know that the internal pH of our plants is 6.1. The microbes dont give a care about pH either, they just keep chugging along.

In a flush you are attempting to move leftover nutes and salts out of the soil. You will end up with clean, wet soil at the pH of the tap water. No one will be concerned. No nutes will be rendered useless because of this one time non adjustment. This only works for the flush however, because after you have fed once and come back on the next pass with water, it MUST be pH adjusted so as to pick up the nutes left over from the feeding pass.

Why are you flushing with molasses? That's like taking a bath in sugar water while still expecting to get clean. That is totally unnecessary and wasteful. If you feel you must add something to your water, add aloe... it will act much like sledgehammer to break down the salts.
 
There are a couple of reasons that we need to pH adjust. First, if your water source is horrible and you are way out of the normal limits for human consumption, such as over 9 and under 4, then of course you would need to pH adjust anything hitting your soil.

The second reason we need to adjust pH is when we are using nutes that need to be within a certain pH range, because of the way they were manufactured and brought to you in a bottle. The nutrients don't break free of their chelated bonds and become available to the plants unless the pH of the medium is within a certain range.

Other than that, the plants don't care what the pH is, although as a sidenote we know that the internal pH of our plants is 6.1. The microbes dont give a care about pH either, they just keep chugging along.

In a flush you are attempting to move leftover nutes and salts out of the soil. You will end up with clean, wet soil at the pH of the tap water. No one will be concerned. No nutes will be rendered useless because of this one time non adjustment. This only works for the flush however, because after you have fed once and come back on the next pass with water, it MUST be pH adjusted so as to pick up the nutes left over from the feeding pass.

Why are you flushing with molasses? That's like taking a bath in sugar water while still expecting to get clean. That is totally unnecessary and wasteful. If you feel you must add something to your water, add aloe... it will act much like sledgehammer to break down the salts.
Ok the molasses flush is out. I was doing it cuz I read and adopted some erroneous information from some idiot online when I first started and hadn't gotten around to asking about it/correcting it yet. Thanks for the correction. And the rest is understood and makes my life easier. No my tap Ph is around 7.1-7.4 depending on the day. No problem. Muchas Gracias mi amigo!!
 
Thanks. Nope. What's white space?


spacing between sentences and paragraphs.

it makes reading and comprehension possible.
 
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