Jon's New Pared Down Setup Soil Grow: 3 Photo & 1 Auto With New Dedicated Auto Rig

[Jon]

Hulkberry Training Photo Comparison

A few days ago I said I'd post a before/training/after picture series on the Hulberry and I forgot til now. Here she is.

First picture is the Hulkster before the training session
Second picture is the same plant, now a mess, after the training
Third picture is the same plant 36 hours later

When you see it this way it shows (I hope) just how fast the plant bounces back from a serious training session when she's really humming along. This training session in the second picture even included a little bit of supercropping to the very most middle little branches to keep the ring more intact and the middle open to light. I find about this time in the life of a photo trained like this is usually about when that becomes necessary. I can't keep a damn branch bent on this plant. She just wants to laugh at me and keep on going. I'm in love.

Hope this eases some of the trepidation many of us new growers feel when approaching LST or training. The plants can take it. They're tough and resilient. GO FOR IT. And don't worry if you clip a few leaves - they grow fast, it'll be okay.

 

[Jon]

Hulkberry Training Photo Comparison

A few days ago I said I'd post a before/training/after picture series on the Hulberry and I forgot til now. Here she is.

First picture is the Hulkster before the training session
Second picture is the same plant, now a mess, after the training
Third picture is the same plant 36 hours later

When you see it this way it shows (I hope) just how fast the plant bounces back from a serious training session when she's really humming along. This training session in the second picture even included a little bit of supercropping to the very most middle little branches to keep the ring more intact and the middle open to light. I find about this time in the life of a photo trained like this is usually about when that becomes necessary. I can't keep a damn branch bent on this plant. She just wants to laugh at me and keep on going. I'm in love.

Hope this eases some of the trepidation many of us new growers feel when approaching LST or training. The plants can take it. They're tough and resilient. GO FOR IT. And don't worry if you clip a few leaves - they grow fast, it'll be okay.

ADDENDUM TO THIS POST
HULKBERRY TRAINING UPDATE
OVERALL TRAINING UPDATE
GROW/VEG DAY 56

Ok, so now it is about 56 hours since our major training session on the Hulkberry. We saw the before - training - after recovery picture time line thingie above. I am posting this picture to show any new grower like me the results of the training and why we do it so hard. Take a good look at the new growth in the picture, particularly the growth leading up to the four main colas. THIS IS HOW EASY IT IS TO CREATE MORE BUD SITES. There must be almost 20 new growth nodes that are now becoming legit branches that will have legit buds on them. EVERY LITTLE NEW GROWTH ON A STEM IS A NEW BUD IF YOU SPREAD THE BRANCH OUT AND GIVE IT LIGHT. It's really as simple as that conceptually.

At this point this plant, as well as the other two photos, have as many bud sites and branches as I believe are manageable through the stretch. These three plants are indeed going to almost fill this 5x5. The amount of work it's going to take to get these girls to look the way I want in the next two weeks going into the flip is large. Each of these plants has way over 40 colas/bud sites. The goal is to make them all have nice buds on them at the end. It's going to get real tricky now and it's going to be tons of fun getting it done. I LOVE training. I guess I'm a control freak. LOL. Anyway, now I let them grow upwards for a little bit and get some length on them. We'll get back to positioning branches and such in about a week. Until then I want some vertical growth, so we will let them go. In a week we'll train them out, then see where we are at. They can get flipped anytime now.

Hope this is helpful for someone.

 

[Nine Toed Hippie]

I guess better late than never. Finally found your new journal! Plants looking good as always. Carry on Amigo.

NTH

 

[Jon]

Ghost Train Haze Training Update
Some General Training "Information"
Grow/Veg Day 56

So the Ghost Train Haze has been doing her thing. Since I have decided it is time to no longer create new bud sites by doing any horizontal training of branches, it is now time to start to pay very close attention to defoliation. Before I get started, let me say this: Everyone approaches training, and particularly defoliation, in their own way. There are many methods and many ways to skin a cat. There are many that are extremely effective. There are also many people who do zero defoliation or close to it. To each their own! I by no means believe MY method is any better necessarily than anyone else's, I display it just to show you mine. Anyone is so welcome to comment, critique, ask me why I do something, or tell me I'm an idiot...I encourage such discussion.

But in Jon World, at this point in the training process, it's almost entirely about effective defoliation. And at the present time, that boils down to one goal: expose as many existing new growth sites to direct light as you possibly can. This is going to make them grow faster, duh. Lol. We have a few weeks before the flip to get some length to whatever we can, develop as many nodes as the plant will give me, and see how big we can get her before the stretch. I can let these plants get as big or not as I like. Space and height are not issues at all. Her canopy is only a foot tall after almost 60 days. This is intentional. My first goal with this method is to create large, wide, flat topped bushes that are as low as possible, and have as many bud sites as possible. I break certain "rules." For example, you will hear often and read as well that when training, you should not cross over branches necessarily. Well I do it constantly, primarily with the inner ring growth. If I see a branch that has a particularly larger number of nodes than another, I may want to make that branch horizontal. That may require criss crossing branches at times. I don't necessarily recommend this, as there really is logic to not doing it. But I have found that with the smaller inner branches a little criss crossing will often help me to separate bud sites and generate more. That part is done, and the job I have done on these is my best yet. It gets better every time. So now that we have our desired bushes we let them become taller bushes and let the existing trillion or so bud sites become legit. As we go through the next two weeks we will spread branches out and space them out effectively, in theory. Lol. Just takes a LOT of bamboo. You'll see.

So this picture is taken right after I got done the type of defoliation and training I am talking about. I took a bunch of leaves. Notice that many of them were new upper leaves of one branch or another. Also maybe notice that there was a bit of supercropping to keep the middle open. And maybe even notice that almost every viable new growth site is exposed to light. I attempted to get as close as I could to a direct overhead shot. What the camera and you see, the sun sees. That's the whole idea. I am not shy about taking leaves at this point, however, if I CAN accomplish the goal with tucking instead of cutting I will always try that first. But the bottom line is, for me, that if it can't be tucked, and it's shadowing new growth, it goes. I won't be as aggressive over the next two weeks, this was pretty rough. But it's gorgeous. And in another day or two I am going to release all the restraints on the plant and let the branches all go unfettered. There are dozens of little stakes in there you can't see controlling this situation. Lol.

So there you go, and here she is, the Ghost Train Haze on day 56.

 

[Nine Toed Hippie]

Ghost Train Haze Training Update
Some General Training "Information"
Grow/Veg Day 56

So the Ghost Train Haze has been doing her thing. Since I have decided it is time to no longer create new bud sites by doing any horizontal training of branches, it is now time to start to pay very close attention to defoliation. Before I get started, let me say this: Everyone approaches training, and particularly defoliation, in their own way. There are many methods and many ways to skin a cat. There are many that are extremely effective. There are also many people who do zero defoliation or close to it. To each their own! I by no means believe MY method is any better necessarily than anyone else's, I display it just to show you mine. Anyone is so welcome to comment, critique, ask me why I do something, or tell me I'm an idiot...I encourage such discussion.

But in Jon World, at this point in the training process, it's almost entirely about effective defoliation. And at the present time, that boils down to one goal: expose as many existing new growth sites to direct light as you possibly can. This is going to make them grow faster, duh. Lol. We have a few weeks before the flip to get some length to whatever we can, develop as many nodes as the plant will give me, and see how big we can get her before the stretch. I can let these plants get as big or not as I like. Space and height are not issues at all. Her canopy is only a foot tall after almost 60 days. This is intentional. My first goal with this method is to create large, wide, flat topped bushes that are as low as possible, and have as many bud sites as possible. I break certain "rules." For example, you will hear often and read as well that when training, you should not cross over branches necessarily. Well I do it constantly, primarily with the inner ring growth. If I see a branch that has a particularly larger number of nodes than another, I may want to make that branch horizontal. That may require criss crossing branches at times. I don't necessarily recommend this, as there really is logic to not doing it. But I have found that with the smaller inner branches a little criss crossing will often help me to separate bud sites and generate more. That part is done, and the job I have done on these is my best yet. It gets better every time. So now that we have our desired bushes we let them become taller bushes and let the existing trillion or so bud sites become legit. As we go through the next two weeks we will spread branches out and space them out effectively, in theory. Lol. Just takes a LOT of bamboo. You'll see.

So this picture is taken right after I got done the type of defoliation and training I am talking about. I took a bunch of leaves. Notice that many of them were new upper leaves of one branch or another. Also maybe notice that there was a bit of supercropping to keep the middle open. And maybe even notice that almost every viable new growth site is exposed to light. I attempted to get as close as I could to a direct overhead shot. What the camera and you see, the sun sees. That's the whole idea. I am not shy about taking leaves at this point, however, if I CAN accomplish the goal with tucking instead of cutting I will always try that first. But the bottom line is, for me, that if it can't be tucked, and it's shadowing new growth, it goes. I won't be as aggressive over the next two weeks, this was pretty rough. But it's gorgeous. And in another day or two I am going to release all the restraints on the plant and let the branches all go unfettered. There are dozens of little stakes in there you can't see controlling this situation. Lol.

So there you go, and here she is, the Ghost Train Haze on day 56.

I got no words to describe that.

NTH

 

[Michael Hunt]

Cant wait to see how that GhostTrain turns out!

 

[Jon]

Chunkadelic Weekend Update
Day 56
Autoflower Problem Diagnosis/Solution Special

We haven't checked in on Chunky in a bit. When we last saw her she was just being moved down from the light as we had found some budlets starting to singe and the upper leaves were starting to go a bit yellowish. Once she had been moved down, she showed SOME improvement. But to my eye it should have been more. Also, three watering week cycles ago she drank FOUR gallons of water. Last week she only drank three. This is where I have to give @Emilya some serious props. She has taught me, and many of us, the importance of paying close attention to what's going on with your watering cycle. One might kiddingly rib her that she's a bit fanatical about it. Lol. Hi Em! When I saw that moving Chunky to the right light level didn't fix the greening up of the top leaves enough, and then I combined that observation with the fact that her water consumption went DOWN, which at this point there is zero reason for, I realized the problem was more than just the light level. Her growth had slowed down. Needless to say that should not be happening right now. The light level would be pretty much unrelated to water consumption in a significant way, at least THAT significant - an entire gallon slower. So if you have slowed growth, which I did, and lessened water uptake at the wrong time, which I had, and if you also have leaves starting to yellow and not be the right shade of green, there's likely only one culprit - CalMag deficiency. In my case I caught this exceedingly early, and frankly I NEVER would have if it weren't for Emilya, so THANKS EM, you're the man. This means I got it before any of the leaves start showing the next step in that deficiency, which is a whole bunch of spots and crap you never want to see. It is worthy of note that this type of CalMag only deficiency can be very difficult to tell apart from having your plants too close to the light - a lesson I learned last grow when the scrog was in veg. Thus, having multiple reference points to diagnose a problem, and in particular any inappropriate changes to the water uptake of the plant, is a big advantage. We stopped the problem in it's tracks. With her first watering this week we gave her a tsp./gallon of the CalMag plus Iron with her nutes, then a clean watering with molasses, then just now her second nute feeding of the week. She's already back to drinking FOUR gallons a week, as the gallon I just added to her makes (2) 1 1/2 gallon and (1) gallon feeding this week. She is now humming along on all cylinders again, and I fortified her CalMag with one more dose in today's mix.

I also think I have a decent handle on these Canna nutes now, or at least a fledgling one. So just now with this gallon I did my first and only tweaking besides the boost I gave the Sour Apple a few weeks ago.

The feeding chart says week 7 for autos is (roughly) a tbsp./gallon of Terra Flores and a tbsp./gallon of Boost. That's it. So I compared this to week 9 of the photo feeding chart, as that is approximately where the 5 day auto week would translate to in photo time. In week 9, Canna gives the photos a one time only boost of a mix called PK 13/14. Not sure about going into the details of what it does as I'm not sure on sponsorship, and don't want to overstate the case. But anyway, this boost is included with the photos so I figured why not the autos too? Are they just being conservative? So then I checked out what Canna says about their own Auto feeding chart, and by their own admission it is their most conservative auto schedule ever. So I said we're going for it. This is what I just gave her in her gallon of water:

- 1 tbsp Terra Flores
- 1 tbsp Boost
- 1 tsp. PK 13/14
- 1 tbsp blackstrap molasses
- 1 tsp CalMag plus Iron

That's a frothy brew. And you won't believe this but I swear to god it's the truth - when I shook all that up and waited a few minutes and tested the Ph, it was....wait for it......6.33. I kid you not. My mouth hit the floor. First time that has happened. LMAO.

I can already see she is no longer stalled, the uptick being a result of the first watering of the week. What I just gave her will cement the solution. The buds took a significant uptick in the last 48 hours. The leaves are greening back up. And she's drinking like a big dog again. I probably cost her maybe five days, one of her weeks, of perfect growth. Oh well. Some lessons I need to learn more than once.

Here she is now. If you go back and compare her to the last picture of her, the upper leaves are clearly greener and the buds are clearly cruising like they are supposed to now. Yay.

Photographs:

The first three pictures are a bottom to top comparison set. You can clearly see the leaves getting paler and yellower as we go higher on the plant. In certain spots they are more pronounced than others, but in none of the leaves is it any worse than this and it's definitely fixed. So when I post in a week I promise she'll be as green up top as she is on the bottom, as she should be.
The fourth picture is the whole plant right after watering her that frothy brew.
The last picture is a bud closeup clearly showing several indications of complete recovery from both the light and the CalMag. You can see the upper leaves praying like demons now, as they should be. This alone is enough proof that the light issue is solved correctly. And you can see the leaves are already greening back up from the initial CalMag pump this week. The buds visibly got bigger in the last 24 hours for the first time in a week. They are now rapidly going to go nuts. She's going to be fine. Be curious to see what happens with the addition of the PK 13/14.

So there you go. I had no illusions that this was going to be a perfect, mistake free, deficiency free grow. They simply never have been yet for me, and I have a lot going on. So this is bush league stuff now. Two grows ago I would have lost this plant. Now I diagnose and fix a problem almost as if I have SOME idea of what I'm doing.

THANK YOU FORUM GROWERS, I WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO MAKE THIS POST IF IT WEREN'T FOR ALL OF YOU HELPING ME OUT AND HAVING MY BACK, AND IT'S ONLY CUZ OF YOU GUYS THAT I HAVE LEARNED ENOUGH TO SAY ALL THAT CRAP!!!!

 

[Jon]

Slurricane Training Update
Grow/Veg Day 56

I am very glad I went through this in great detail earlier, cuz it took forever to do that post properly, lol. So I don't have to go through it again. All I need tell you is that this evening it was the Slurricane's turn to get the final aggressive defol/training session just as displayed earlier on the Ghost Train Haze.

Here's a picture of some serious carnage and lots of damn super cropping. This plant was topped initially using Uncle Ben's method, and then each of the six mains I got from that were topped again. Additionally I am starting to get new damn growth out of nowhere at a couple of the bend points from the supercropping. I guess I knew that could happen but I didn't think it would with bending such little branches. This plant is dying to go into bud and reveal her glory. She's going to go nuts when I release her.

Both the Slurricane and the Ghost Train Haze will be released from their bonds in a few days. That's gonna be fun. The Hulkster is a couple days behind them. She will get this treatment tomorrow morning and I'll post a picture. Then phase one of training (as I just now decided to refer to it as, lol, I'm nearly that good...) will be complete on all three of the photos that soon are going to explode in this tent.

That's it. Thanks for tuning in guys.

OUCH. Think she'll forgive me?

 

[CharlieWaffles]

First, no question is a dumb one. I am actually starting to love your "quick" questions. I too asked that particular question when I started this, so I set out to get to the bottom of things.

Some people grow in 1 or 2 gallon containers, some in 5's, 10's... you get the idea. The watering frequency of each of these containers is likely to be very different, and some could easily get watered 7 times a week and some once a week. So, how could they make a blanket statement like this, that you should feed twice a week, when in some cases that is just not possible? Well, once our plants fill out a container, we uppot and eventually we see that our watering schedules usually settles in to a pattern that seems to repeat as the plant gets bigger, in bigger containers.

It turns out that there is an industry standard of 3 days. Three days is the ideal time between waterings of a good sized healthy plant in a container of soil, and soil water retention and flow through rate calculations as soil is built takes this into account and indeed, 3 days often becomes our time between waterings during bloom with a good root system in just about any sized container we choose to use.

In a container with this timing, let's say you feed on day 1 so when it is time to water again you give water only on day 4. Three days later, on day 7 you need to water again, this time with feed. You have fed twice in that week. What that instruction actually means to an experienced gardener, is to feed every other time. Successive uppottings make this timing possible all through the grow, but just to be thorough, we must imagine the plant blooming in a solo cup, that must be watered twice a day, or 14 times in a week. In this case, we find the reason the crafty wordsmiths at FF said this the way they did... that plant would do well just getting 2 out of the 14 waterings that week to include feed... any more would overload the poor tortured thing.

Further study informs us that when we water soil with nutes, the dosage rates recommended are way more than you would give a hydroponic plant... but the plant does not take all of those nutrients in during that first pass. This is the beauty of soil, it's ability to hold ions of nutrients all throughout the soil, so that when you come along with pH adjusted water on the next watering, those leftover nutrients are once again mobile and available to the plant. In soil, each feeding that you give is actually two feedings... and that water only round really is not water only once you realize what is going on, it is picking up the leftovers. If your dosages are correct, that water only pass effectively cleans up the soil of all nutrients, and you are ready to go again... the only thing that should be left over is the EDTA salt that is left behind as the nutes break free of the bonds put on them so they stay inert in the bottle, and you flush that away on a regular basis.

Amazing info! Wicked! Thank you.

 

[Jon]

Amazing info! Wicked! Thank you.

That's why she's the man.

 

[Jon]

Cant wait to see how that GhostTrain turns out!

Hi @Michael Hunt, how you doing my friend? Haven't touched base lately. All going okay? Whatchoo got going on?

 

[Jon]

I got no words to describe that.

NTH

I do, and here they are.

"ANYONE can do this just like this to any plant they want if they so desire."

But thanks. I will say she's purty.

 

[Jon]

Sour Apple Autoflower Final Grow Room Check In
Last Pictures Before Relocating to Outdoor Light Rig
Real Light Pictures and Decent Bud Porn!!
Sour Apple Grow Day 49

Sometimes the pictures tell the story better than any words....

 

[Emilya Green]

Kind of like saying I'll grow a vagina if I worry too much.

Little chance of that, we keep them in short supply for a reason.

Funny how there are lots of people out there who will swear that light leaks caused their hermies... My experience is that with my bloom door open to let cool air in, the veg light around the corner doesn't bother my crop nor does the occasional hallway light coming on due to its motion sensor, just outside of the bloom room. Reflected light seems to be so weak that it doesn't bother the plants, it is direct light shining right on the plants that will cause trouble, and I have seen pilot lights on space heaters and such cause problems in the grow room. Light can cause hermies, but only with prolonged and reoccurring exposures.

 

[Jon]

Little chance of that, we keep them in short supply for a reason.

Funny how there are lots of people out there who will swear that light leaks caused their hermies... My experience is that with my bloom door open to let cool air in, the veg light around the corner doesn't bother my crop nor does the occasional hallway light coming on due to its motion sensor, just outside of the bloom room. Reflected light seems to be so weak that it doesn't bother the plants, it is direct light shining right on the plants that will cause trouble, and I have seen pilot lights on space heaters and such cause problems in the grow room. Light can cause hermies, but only with prolonged and reoccurring exposures.

You mean like placing a dehumidifier in the tent with your first scrog that has an always on green bright light, but because some idiot told you green light won't do anything and like a moron you believed that and let the dehumidifier shine that bright green light in the middle of the scrog attempt for a month? Like that kind of light leak?

Yes, whether or not light leaks make a plant go hermie is a function of the light, how much it is, and how extended it is. Sure. But to say light leaks CANNOT cause a plant to go hermie, and that it's inaccurate to think otherwise, well, dear, at this point I disagree strongly. And that's okay. Show me some science, not just your opinion on this. Educate me if you can. If you can change my thinking on this more power to you. But having now had the experience twice, it is my experience that a crappy light leak can indeed cause a plant to hermie. Dark means dark in a tent, despite your inevitable nature argument. It's not the same as saying "starlight, moonlight, etc." Just isn't. Here's another example. In a tent you'd never let it get to 88 or 90 degrees. Outdoor plants have no issue with it. Why? Tent/LED is not the same as outside.

Whatchoo got kid?

 

[BubbaKush909]

Morning Jon! Thank you for your thoughtful responses. I think you're onto something with possible calmag issues, I got burned so badly by underusing it I'm probably hitting it too hard now and I'll cut back. I thought I'd seen everything with these plants but I've never had any doing what these girls are... dark green foliage, leafs curling under very tightly in some cases, and other leaves looking perfectly fine. Like you said it's hard to separate lighting and feeding issues sometimes. I've always linked the green-ness (?) of the foliage to nitrogen, I didn't realize calmag could also affect it. That is very good to know.

I don't have a par meter per se but I've been using an app called LUX which measures lumens. While I think I understand the difference between par and lumens, as a relative measure of light intensity it seems to be useful. Natural sunlight clocks in at around 105k to 120k. The top of the canopy, now about 18-20" below the lights, is around 55-60k. The old lights at 30" were cranking out 80k.

It's been a week with the new lights. I've been watching the emerging growth very closely and it looks much more like what I'm accustomed to seeing. With the old lights the new growth didn't look right at all, very sparse and shying from the lights. I couldn't get them any higher above the canopy than 30". It's still not looking like a happy plant should but as I continue to make adjustments I hope it settles down.

I read some reviews of moisture probes and the consensus seemed to be don't waste your money they don't work very well. But based on your recommendation I'll try one, 10 bucks is a pittance compared to what I've spent already.

Carry on my friend and as always take care!

 

[Jon]

Morning Jon! Thank you for your thoughtful responses. I think you're onto something with possible calmag issues, I got burned so badly by underusing it I'm probably hitting it too hard now and I'll cut back. I thought I'd seen everything with these plants but I've never had any doing what these girls are... dark green foliage, leafs curling under very tightly in some cases, and other leaves looking perfectly fine. Like you said it's hard to separate lighting and feeding issues sometimes. I've always linked the green-ness (?) of the foliage to nitrogen, I didn't realize calmag could also affect it. That is very good to know.

I don't have a par meter per se but I've been using an app called LUX which measures lumens. While I think I understand the difference between par and lumens, as a relative measure of light intensity it seems to be useful. Natural sunlight clocks in at around 105k to 120k. The top of the canopy, now about 18-20" below the lights, is around 55-60k. The old lights at 30" were cranking out 80k.

It's been a week with the new lights. I've been watching the emerging growth very closely and it looks much more like what I'm accustomed to seeing. With the old lights the new growth didn't look right at all, very sparse and shying from the lights. I couldn't get them any higher above the canopy than 30". It's still not looking like a happy plant should but as I continue to make adjustments I hope it settles down.

I read some reviews of moisture probes and the consensus seemed to be don't waste your money they don't work very well. But based on your recommendation I'll try one, 10 bucks is a pittance compared to what I've spent already.

Carry on my friend and as always take care!

Good you're using an app. So 60,000 lumens equals 1350 par my friend. Just go on line and google "lumens to par conversion" and you will find an easy way to convert. I think par, not lumens. Same thing, but par is much easier to deal with numerically. But listen my friend, 1350 par is highly advanced budding par numbers. Your autos should NEVER be getting hit that hard. You need these for veg: 300-700 par (early to late) and then 700-1200 for budding (early to late). You are very likely killing your plants with too much light. Back the new light off. WHAT IS THE EXACT LIGHT YOU GOT? I will help you dial it in if you tell me.

 

[Jon]

Hulkberry Final Aggressive Training Update
Grow/Veg Day 57

So this morning was Hulkster's turn, and I butchered her. Very aggressive, or at least to me it is. Can't wait to see the bounceback in a few days.

Phase 1 of training on all the photos is now done. We are quickly approaching a flip now. Today the Chunkadelic auto is getting relocated and the tent will be just photos. Gotta clean up in there badly.

Phew. That's a lot of damn work. Kind of glad that part is over. It's the first, and most important by far, step of my process.

Enjoy. Happy Saturday.

 

[Michael Hunt]

Hi @Michael Hunt, how you doing my friend? Haven't touched base lately. All going okay? Whatchoo got going on?

I’m doing well man thanks. Glad to see you’re still cranking out the goodness! I envy your attention to detail lol. We finally got our tent going again this week with a Barneys Blueberry OG sprout. Once of these days we’re gonna make it over to the west coast of the state and we gotta meet up and exchange some jars

 

[Jon]

I’m doing well man thanks. Glad to see you’re still cranking out the goodness! I envy your attention to detail lol. We finally got our tent going again this week with a Barneys Blueberry OG sprout. Once of these days we’re gonna make it over to the west coast of the state and we gotta meet up and exchange some jars

That would be awesome. Love to meet you and the wife in person. Guest room is always here for you man. It even has it's own bathroom. Lol. I'll be harvesting a pretty large amount of weed in around 80 - 100 days.