InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time

I would switch to bloom nutes when you flip. Bloom nutes will help induce flowering. Veg nutes can create a lockout in the future too as the plant doesn’t need the nitrogen it will sit idle in the soil and become toxic.

Yes, but that wasn't the question. This was the question:

I know that going thirsty in veg is the way to get roots to grow but are flowering plants still focused on root development? I feel like once they head into flower the plant is expending energy on reproduction above the soil, and I want to make sure that every single root that feeds that flowering process is getting the nutes it needs.

Not that your flowering plants look underfed :)
 
How do you know all the roots are getting wet with that little water? I feel like the only way I know every root is getting fed is with runoff.

My recommendation for someone that wants to do a thorough watering but not over-water is pretty simple. Someone above mentioned it...can't remember who but it involves knowing the weight of your pot empty. If someone wants to use a digital scale, that works too. But here is my basic technique.

Step 1. Transplant into whatever size pot you are going to use.....but do it when the plant is almost dry. Now you should be adding relatively dry soil when you water.

Step 2. Slowly start watering your plant. Now depending on how big of a pot you are going into will determine what you might need to use to measure the water you put in. For example, in 1 gallon pots I use red solo cups filled to a specific line. If I am using 5 gallon pot, I use 32 oz water bottles. From here, regardless of what size you are using, you start SLOWLY watering that plant. The key is going slowly. You want the plant to absorb it slowly and none going through the pot quickly. Keep track of how many cups you use. Take a short break between cups. Then back again and slowly add more. Keep doing this....adding more (Please keep track of how many cups or bottles you use). When you finally get to where there is just a touch of water starting to run off, you know how much water your empty pot holds.

Step 3. Wait for your pot to almost dry out out. Become familiar with its weight when its in need of watering. I just grab my pot and lift and I can tell in a second or two if I need to water or not. If the pot is heavier than your light feeling then wait a bit. No need to rush it. Now when its ready for another watering, I take my total number of whatever I was keeping track of above (cups or bottles) and I subtract about 25% of one of those units. So in one gallon pots, I can put just short of 5 red solo cups of water into the soil before I have any runoff. Since I am in organic soil, I don't want run off so I do 4.5 cups of water. For 5 gallon pots, I can water with 4.5 32 oz bottles of water. I round that down to 4 bottles of 32 oz of water or 1 gallon.

Many times I split my watering between top and bottom watering so I know everything is nice and watered. Then the biggest key is to leave it alone until the weight gets down to the "need water" weight.

So to recap, start with dry pot.....slowly water until you have just the slightest run off. Calculate your total water used and back off of that total a bit. Presto....now if you wait for your plant to dry out (not to the point of wilted leaves).....you know exactly how much water to give your plant in soil. No more overwatering, no more guessing if you watered enough. Picture perfect every time.

What I like about doing full to empty watering cycles is that I get days between waterings. Smaller pots (1-3 gallons) I get about 2-4 days between waterings depending on how big the plants are in those pots. In larger pots, I tend to get 4-6 days between needing to water.

Now as your plants get bigger and drink more, the time between waterings might decrease. Instead of 5 days, now you might only get 4 days before needing to water again, so keep checking your pot weight as your grow progresses. Don't just assume because it initially was taking you 6 days for your pot to dry out that it will stay at that interval. You might find it drops down to 4 days relatively quickly if she's a big drinker.
 
i believe that roots grow untill stretch is over so you have veg + stretch to build roots .... after that the course is set in terms of systemic development and all focus goes to generative reproduction aka flower production its at that point ppl switch from veg to bloom nutes ...

This is correct. I can't remember whose journal I was reading but they were having issues going into flower. They up-potted early in flower and when they harvested they went back and pulled the plant specifically to look for root growth. The roots barely went into the new dirt he transplanted into.

They definitely don't develop much past the stretch.

Wish I could remember who's journal it was.
 
That's a brilliant explanation VS! :thanks:

Is watering to runoff in flower a problem? My final pots are fabric and I usually water to about 12-15% runoff in flower, but only when they're dry on the bottom and light by feel. It also gives me accurate PPM runoff numbers.

I don't know about it being a problem. I am in organic soil and don't measure any PPM so I have no need to get to run off. I know people that use nutes have to water to run off to measure so I can't really comment on people that have to measure. I suppose my above explanation really only applies to soil growers for that reason. LOL...didn't consider that aspect of it Shed.
 
I don't know about it being a problem. I am in organic soil and don't measure any PPM so I have no need to get to run off. I know people that use nutes have to water to run off to measure so I can't really comment on people that have to measure. I suppose my above explanation really only applies to soil growers for that reason. LOL...didn't consider that aspect of it Shed.

I'm a soil grower too, just don't have a handy supply of Stank soil :). Therefore I nute!
 
My recommendation for someone that wants to do a thorough watering but not over-water is pretty simple. Someone above mentioned it...can't remember who but it involves knowing the weight of your pot empty. If someone wants to use a digital scale, that works too. But here is my basic technique.

Step 1. Transplant into whatever size pot you are going to use.....but do it when the plant is almost dry. Now you should be adding relatively dry soil when you water.

Step 2. Slowly start watering your plant. Now depending on how big of a pot you are going into will determine what you might need to use to measure the water you put in. For example, in 1 gallon pots I use red solo cups filled to a specific line. If I am using 5 gallon pot, I use 32 oz water bottles. From here, regardless of what size you are using, you start SLOWLY watering that plant. The key is going slowly. You want the plant to absorb it slowly and none going through the pot quickly. Keep track of how many cups you use. Take a short break between cups. Then back again and slowly add more. Keep doing this....adding more (Please keep track of how many cups or bottles you use). When you finally get to where there is just a touch of water starting to run off, you know how much water your empty pot holds.

Step 3. Wait for your pot to almost dry out out. Become familiar with its weight when its in need of watering. I just grab my pot and lift and I can tell in a second or two if I need to water or not. If the pot is heavier than your light feeling then wait a bit. No need to rush it. Now when its ready for another watering, I take my total number of whatever I was keeping track of above (cups or bottles) and I subtract about 25% of one of those units. So in one gallon pots, I can put just short of 5 red solo cups of water into the soil before I have any runoff. Since I am in organic soil, I don't want run off so I do 4.5 cups of water. For 5 gallon pots, I can water with 4.5 32 oz bottles of water. I round that down to 4 bottles of 32 oz of water or 1 gallon.

Many times I split my watering between top and bottom watering so I know everything is nice and watered. Then the biggest key is to leave it alone until the weight gets down to the "need water" weight.

So to recap, start with dry pot.....slowly water until you have just the slightest run off. Calculate your total water used and back off of that total a bit. Presto....now if you wait for your plant to dry out (not to the point of wilted leaves).....you know exactly how much water to give your plant in soil. No more overwatering, no more guessing if you watered enough. Picture perfect every time.

What I like about doing full to empty watering cycles is that I get days between waterings. Smaller pots (1-3 gallons) I get about 2-4 days between waterings depending on how big the plants are in those pots. In larger pots, I tend to get 4-6 days between needing to water.

Now as your plants get bigger and drink more, the time between waterings might decrease. Instead of 5 days, now you might only get 4 days before needing to water again, so keep checking your pot weight as your grow progresses. Don't just assume because it initially was taking you 6 days for your pot to dry out that it will stay at that interval. You might find it drops down to 4 days relatively quickly if she's a big drinker.

Thank you VS that's a really good explanation it will help me a lot :)
 
I think it’s still important to water to ~10% runoff, even if growing in enriched soil, with no additional nutes in the water (if you’re growing in LOS or ‘super soil’, don’t worry. This amount of runoff (10%) isn’t going to leach out all of the nutrients in your soil). This is to flush out the plant’s waste products that accumulate around the roots. Also, air is pulled in behind the water as it goes through the pot. Typically, the bottommost portion of soil in the pot stays wet and potentially anaerobic. Getting this soil flushed out and somewhat better aerated can only benefit the plant.

I should add that the practice of adding a layer of granular material (gravel, perlite, etc) in the bottom of the pot only raises the height of the layer of perched water within the pot.

This is why I use no less than 40% (typically 50%) granular particles in my soil mix (I prefer pumice since it also has nooks and crannies for moisture and nutrients to hang out, and doesn’t float out of the soil like perlite). I believe that a mix that requires frequent watering provides opportunities to keep the roots aerated and happy.

:passitleft:
 
Here's a pic of my 50% pumice mix. Looks pretty gritty, doesn't it? Adding 10-20% perlite to a mostly fine-grained soil (sandy loam) is like raisins floating in pudding. It doesn't do a whole lot to improve drainage and aeration.

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Sorry for the hijack Shed. Still drumming up customers for my future pumice mine. :biglaugh:
 
Pumice away Felipe! Your mine can be a 420mag sponsor ;)

FRIDAY and it was foggy and grey when I took pics of Sour G (day 27) this morning so pardon the drabness. Check out the last pic of the leaf and tell me what you think. Yesterday I bumped up the nutes to 50% dilution and there was also 1/8th tsp ArmorSi in that dilution. Two changes for it yesterday. Might be unrelated...

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What's up with the yellow mottling on these two leaves? Iron deficiency?

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Answer that question before scrolling down to my secret project below:
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I have been trying to clone again! Back on January 17th I topped AK and there were some prime-looking cuttings I just couldn't toss. So I grabbed 4 peat pots (not pucks), sliced about ½" of the bottom of the stems, and put them in my regular soil/perlite mix (no pumice, waiting for the mine to open). I kept the clone box around 75% RH and sprayed the leaves for the first week. I kept the outside and bottom of the peat wet but only watered the soil once, after about 2 weeks. About a week ago I began transplanting any that had roots at the little hole in the bottom (I cut off the peat pots first).

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Whatcha think? The last one might make it as well, and I'm keeping them in the box for warmth but the RH is down to ambient (50-65%). Once I see them start to grow I'll get them accustomed to life outside the box.

Excellent watering and moisture discussion! This is a great place to be because of y'all.
:thankyou:

I hope your Friday gets sunnier, outside and in.
 
I'm thinking nitro based on the yellow is coming out through the veins ? Maybe up nitro or grow base?
 
Thanks! I was at 50% yesterday so maybe I'll go to 75% strength next watering?

Yeah or cruise if worsen just up liek you said. But tips look good. New growth good so hmm lower leafs usually where nitro where will first if not mistaken.
 
That is an awesome secret project ITS, you just never give up. They are perfection in my eyes right now, keep it up!

Funny thing, last week I took a clone and called it Shed, cause you inspire me. Then sure enough you did clones around the same time as my cutting. I think we have this "never give up" resilience our plants can relate to. :)

Sour G looks a bit sour but she's hangin' on, she's never giving up either. You must live on Resilience Ranch. :Love::circle-of-love::Love:
 
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