In The Lab

Here we go! Tangie Ghost Train seeds have been planted with some roots in 1 gallon pots.
20160526_233806.jpg
 
Here we go! Tangie Ghost Train seeds have been planted with some roots in 1 gallon pots.
20160526_233806.jpg

Nice! I just harvested my 2nd tangie ghost train. One smelled soooo incredibley orangey it was overpowering. The 2nd was very orange with a little gassy hint to it. The 1st one was a huge hit, some of the best I've had, then came the 2nd one and damn is that one special. I was blown away by the power and intensity of the buzz. It's the 1st strain that I had to document the buzz while high. I would suggest running them 12/12, I did mine on 11/13 and that plant (both phenotypes) make some of the smallest buds I've grown. I was seriously considering not running it again because of it but that 2nd pheno is too good to let go. Good luck, you're going to love this strain!
 
Hey MMM,

Many of us are including 1/4 strength Transplant with the water only, IE instead of straight water. That's how I look at it. Instead of watering with straight water between drenches, I add a splash of Transplant. No Tea, just Transplant.

When I do a "feeding" or root drench, I add the Tea.

The thing to realize when dunking the plants is that most of what you mix up for the dunking will be waste. So, if you were trying to distribute 1.5 oz of GE to 6 plants top watering, you'd add 1.5 oz GE plus 2-3 mils Tea to 6 gallons of water and give each plant a gallon.

But when you dunk them in veg, half or more of that water is left behind....so you've got to mix it stronger for the dunking to be effective. And it's REALLY effective, but it does use more product.

You could easily modify things so that you only dunk them when you water and not when you feed, if you're trying to conserve the drenches.

I like to dunk as much as possible because it keeps the soil from compacting. Top watering is fine if you can't dunk, but you'll get better results if you dunk 'em.

In bloom, I can't dunk so I use saucers. A small amount down the top, the rest wicks up from the bottom....again the soil loves not being compacted from top watering, BUT TOP WATERING STILL WORKS GREAT. These are just the little things.

The big thing is to do the wet/dry thing in veg. Thick stems, tight internodes, higher calyx/leaf ratio and massive roots. That's all done in veg.

Doc, yup, I do the ¼ Tp -w/water inbetween (dunking) drenches, the "wet/dry thing", bottom watering ,etc. just was a little confused with the wording and wanted to be sure. I've been a little reluctant about doubling the drenches - not worried about using more product, but didn't want to burn them.

Attached is a pic of six of the ladies at day 29 of veg. I've topped once and LSTed, but haven't pruned, yet. Nice and busy as you can see with tight internodes. (Must be doing something right, yes? ) Also, I don't know if it is solely due to the LEDs, but the new growth is so rampant that the leaves come out almost white! They do green up quickly, however.

You are a gift to the community and I can't thank you enough!

For some reason, the attached photo is showing upside down! I see it correctly in my photo app, but..??

Back three are Blue Dream. Front three (l-r) Krystalica (Mandala seeds), Afghani, and another Krystalica.
image12884.jpeg
 
Doc, yup, I do the ¼ Tp -w/water inbetween (dunking) drenches, the "wet/dry thing", bottom watering ,etc. just was a little confused with the wording and wanted to be sure. I've been a little reluctant about doubling the drenches - not worried about using more product, but didn't want to burn them.

Attached is a pic of six of the ladies at day 29 of veg. I've topped once and LSTed, but haven't pruned, yet. Nice and busy as you can see with tight internodes. (Must be doing something right, yes? ) Also, I don't know if it is solely due to the LEDs, but the new growth is so rampant that the leaves come out almost white! They do green up quickly, however.

You are a gift to the community and I can't thank you enough!

For some reason, the attached photo is showing upside down! I see it correctly in my photo app, but..??

Back three are Blue Dream. Front three (l-r) Krystalica (Mandala seeds), Afghani, and another Krystalica.
image12884.jpeg

Nice plants. Great strain choices.

In phone and android apps, you often have to "crop" and "save" a photo before upload. There is a rotational indicator on cell phone pics that gets reset to 0 when you alter and save a photo.
 
To answer my own question:

Starting with a seed and before the introduction of foliar feeding, my current plant went 15 days between a drench and a watering. Now that I know what to look for, I probably could have let the plant go 16 or 17 days.

Initial question... What is the most number of days anyone has waited between two feedings / watering ?

Update with a new grow:

My current Afghan Kush grow

Starting from day one of the vegetative cycle (IE: When the cotyledon and first pair of single blade leaves emerged from the seed casing). I have taken a single plant to 16 days without food or water. I gave this plant food and water because the cotyledon leaves were beginning to yellow.

Just for the sake of information...
1. At the time of this posting... My current grow is at day 21 from when the seed was planted and also day 18 since day one of the vegetative cycle.
2. At the start of the vegetative cycle I did give the plant 2.5ml growth energy mixed in an ounce of water. Vegetative phase day 2 was when the count began.
3. From my point of view the day ends when the light goes off. Feeding and watering while the light is on, is considered as "On/during the day..." and would not count toward the total number of days in between a feeding/watering.
4. Using a quality "Postal scale"... Before the feeding / watering everything (the plant, soil, and container) weighed 664 grams (about 1.46lb). After the feeding / watering everything (the plant, soil, additional water, and container) weighed 1.922 kilograms (about 4.24lb).
 
Initial question... What is the most number of days anyone has waited between two feedings / watering ?

Update with a new grow:

My current Afghan Kush grow at

Starting from day one of the vegetative cycle (IE: When the cotyledon and first pair of single blade leaves emerged from the seed casing). I have taken a single plant to 16 days without food or water. I gave this plant food and water because the cotyledon leaves were beginning to yellow.

Just for the sake of information...
1. At the time of this posting... My current grow is at day 21 from when the seed was planted and also day 18 since day one of the vegetative cycle.
2. At the start of the vegetative cycle I did give the plant 2.5ml growth energy mixed in an ounce of water. Vegetative phase day 2 was when the count began.
3. From my point of view the day ends when the light goes off. Feeding and watering while the light is on, is considered as "On/during the day..." and would not count toward the total number of days in between a feeding/watering.
4. Using a quality "Postal scale"... Before the feeding / watering everything (the plant, soil, and container) weighed 664 grams (about 1.46lb). After the feeding / watering everything (the plant, soil, additional water, and container) weighed 1.922 kilograms (about 4.24lb).

I don't think I've ever gone that long between waterings, but early on in veg a week is semi-normal for me.
 
I've gone up to 2 weeks w/o watering or feeding anything.
I currently have new seedlings that are at 10 days and counting.
 
I've gone up to 2 weeks w/o watering or feeding anything.
I currently have new seedlings that are at 10 days and counting.

I could not edit my post, but wanted to add, these seedlings are in 18 oz. Solo cups. Amazing the little buggers seem fine after 11+ days and no drink.
 
This clone was transplanted on 5-22

5-22_3_.JPG


26 days later, they just started to wilt slightly. Am I doing something wrong? When I transplanted them, I thoroughly saturated the pots and drained until only a drop of water came out every couple seconds. The environment isn't even close to perfect. Day and night temps are a constant 67F and humidity a constant 48%. For now there is nothing I can do to change that, since the exhaust on my veg cabinet runs 24/7 and this is the ambient conditions I set to keep my flowering girl happy.

This is what she looked like just before her feeding, but right after Destress. I forgot to take the picture before I sprayed, but I promise, she had the "I need water" wilt.

6-2_1_.JPG
 
This clone was transplanted on 5-22

5-22_3_.JPG


26 days later, they just started to wilt slightly. Am I doing something wrong? When I transplanted them, I thoroughly saturated the pots and drained until only a drop of water came out every couple seconds. The environment isn't even close to perfect. Day and night temps are a constant 67F and humidity a constant 48%. For now there is nothing I can do to change that, since the exhaust on my veg cabinet runs 24/7 and this is the ambient conditions I set to keep my flowering girl happy.

This is what she looked like just before her feeding, but right after Destress. I forgot to take the picture before I sprayed, but I promise, she had the "I need water" wilt.

6-2_1_.JPG

its a bit cool for daytime temps, plant will thrive in warmer temps. Mineral lockout can start to occur in the 60's :circle-of-love:
 
its a bit cool for daytime temps, plant will thrive in warmer temps. Mineral lockout can start to occur in the 60's :circle-of-love:

I use the light/temp controller in my flower cabinet to keep daytime temps around 77F. At night, exhaust runs constant to keep temps equal to ambient 67F.

I'm afraid if I try to do the same in the veg cabinet, the light wont produce enough heat to raise the temps to 77F since the wood the cabinet is made with acts as a powerful heatsink. I probably need at least another 150-175 watts to get the temps up and exhaust running enough to recycle the air. I've been considering adding a couple old fashioned incandescent bulbs, but it seems such a waste of electricity. They don't really need any more light. I'm sure the MarsHydro Reflector 43 provides plenty.

What about the heat mat I bought for my clones? I have some 1/2 inch hardboard insulation I could set the mat on, then the pots on the mat. Maybe keep the roots happy?
 
I use the light/temp controller in my flower cabinet to keep daytime temps around 77F. At night, exhaust runs constant to keep temps equal to ambient 67F.

I'm afraid if I try to do the same in the veg cabinet, the light wont produce enough heat to raise the temps to 77F since the wood the cabinet is made with acts as a powerful heatsink. I probably need at least another 150-175 watts to get the temps up and exhaust running enough to recycle the air. I've been considering adding a couple old fashioned incandescent bulbs, but it seems such a waste of electricity. They don't really need any more light. I'm sure the MarsHydro Reflector 43 provides plenty.

What about the heat mat I bought for my clones? I have some 1/2 inch hardboard insulation I could set the mat on, then the pots on the mat. Maybe keep the roots happy?

sounds like a plan! :thumb:
 
It'll prob help, but still is a tad backwards. Roots seem to do well at or just below 70f, but the ambient temps could use a boost. I don't want to sound contradictory, but growing indoors is already kind of a waste of electricity (well, an inefficient use of it anyway).

Personally, I'd put an incandescent bulb in there and take the mat out...but that's just me. I mean, it's probably not going to stay that way for very long anyway...is it?


:cool:
 
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