In The Lab

Hash.

I just went to pick up another bale and that picture is the new packaging for what I use - All Purpose Growing Mix
- the one I talked to the soil engineer about - I remembered the name wrong. :cheesygrinsmiley:

It works just fine. :thumb: You'll want to add about 10% perlite to it - it has half what HP does. This package doesn't mention forest humus. I think that was in the green package. This one is just ph-balanced peat with about 12% (?) perlite, and some yucca.
 
thanks for the input guys.

We actually made it to the hydro store today and they started carrying the HP now and they had 3 bales left.

We got one and now; Hash Hounds cooking soil :slide:Hash Hounds cooking soil :slide:

I have some plants starting now for the brix grow in 1/2 gal pots in the All Purpose.

The HP has WAY more perlite.
 
New Instructions: March 2014

The Kit:

The End User will need the following:

3.8 cu ft bale of ProMix HP myco, or Sunshine #4 or Promix BX myco. Perlite can be added to the BX in order increase porosity for indoor growing.

20-40 pounds of organic worm castings that show an NPK of zero K. (1-1-0)

A proper growing environment, basic gardening skills, 7 gallon pots and a sprayer capable of putting out a fine spray.

The Products:

Drenches

Growth Energy: This product provides vegetative growth energy and bulking of fruit and flowers once formed.

Transplant: This product, being organic, slightly favors reproductive growth of seeds, flowers and fruit. It is used to feed the microbial colony in the soil and is used when tranplanting.

Cat Drench: This product highly favors reproductive growth and provides cations and the ammonia form of nitrogen, which strongly stimulate fruiting and flowering, as well as seed production.

All drenches are mixed at 1/2 ounce per 6 plants(30 sq. feet of garden space for those in raised beds) Applications up to 1.5 oz can be applied without harm, but very few plants require this much. Heavy feeders might try .75 oz before mixing stronger.


Foliar Sprays:

Brix: Sprayed every week to 10 days, this product encourages reproductive growth and essential oil and resin production.

De-Stress: This product helps plants heal, deal with stress and provides a broad spectrum of trace minerals. This can be sprayed 1-2 times per week when there are signs of plant stress. Also, mixed at 50% strength it helps high brix clones root much faster.

Both foliar sprays are mixed at 1oz per quart of RO. Use Brix immediately after mixing. De-stress can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Soil Amendments

Amendment: this product is mixed into the bale of Promix, watered, and allowed to "cook" in a barrel for a minimum of 30 days in order to get the soil ready for planting. Please note that the most recent version of amendment has the old "conditioner" added to it already!

Re-Charge: This product is similar to Amendment, but has a few additions and ommisions. It is designed to be top dressed during the 3rd week of the bloom cycle. Outdoors, apply re-charge when buds have set.

Roots!: This is a microbial inoculate designed to work with in conjuction with Transplant. A light dusting on rootballs during transplanting and a small amount at the bottom of the hole where seeds are planted is the proper use for this product.

Tea: This is a liquid humate product loaded with beneficials. It is mixed with each feeding at the rate of 2.5 mil per 6 plants (30 square feet)


So, how does all this work together?


Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:

Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:

Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.

Place the above dry mix into barrels and water with 3-5 gallons of water. Stir it, mix it, turn it over....and let it sit covered for one month. Temps must be no lower than 62 degrees and no higher than 85 degrees. Lower temps can take another week to "cook" while higher temps might be ready sooner. 1 month is usually spot on.

Once the soil has cooked, it's now time to plant!

Seeds:

Using a gallon sized container of newly cooked High Brix soil, make sure the soil is still slightly moist from the barrel. Not soaking wet....but moist.

Using a pencil, or chopstick or a non-functioning vape pen, make a divet in the soil about 1/4 inch deep. Add a small amount of ROOTS! in and around this hole, in which you deposit the seed and lightly cover with surrounding dirt.

Clones:

Pretty much the same as seeds, but use enough ROOTS! to completely dust the roots and put a small amount at the bottom of the whole. Water with 1 pint of Transplant Water.

Upcanning of larger plants:

Vertically score the roots, dust all roots with ROOTS!, place some in the bottom of the hole, gently position rootball and soak the medium with Transplant Water.

Water All seeds, all newly transplanted clones and newly tranplanted vegging plants with Transplant Water.

Recipe for Transplant Water

1 oz of Transplant per 1 gallon water. Use in the following manner:

1. Seeds and freshly potted cuttings/clones: water with 1 pint of transplant water.
2. Upcanning of larger plants: thoroughly soak medium with Transplant Water.

Use of Foliar Sprays:

Spray Brix and De-Stress 1 time weekly, not on the same day! De-Stress can be sprayed twice a week if the plants continue to exhibit signs of stress.

Mix each spray at 1 oz per quart of RO, using a fine mist try to get the underside of the leaves.

Using Drenches:

Tea: All drenches are "served" with 2.5 mils of Tea. No execptions.

In High Brix growing, drenches do far more than feed the plant. They signal the plant to grow or re-produce, and they keep the biology in the soil happy and productive. This is where the magic happens! Water with straight water between drenches with one exception.*

Growth Energy: used nearly exclusively in veg, with the exception of Transplant water. This is where strong stems and healthy leaves come from. It is also used during the latter half of the bloom cycle to bulk up fruit and flowers. Mix at 1/2 oz per 6 plants. Stronger doses can be used if needed, but generally you'll just waste product. Finishing the growing cycle on Growth Energy results in a sweeter produce.

Transplant: used as Transplant Water. Also should be used during the bloom phase alternating with Growth Energy. It is used at 1/2 oz per 6 plants (30 square feet.) Some growers have found that essential oil and resin production can be increased by using 1/4 oz of Transplant evenly distributed to every plant with each and every watering....whether with a drench or with just plain water. Please note, this does not mean 1/4 TO EVERY PLANT, but 1/4 oz divided equally to all plants.

**Cat Drench: This is used right when buds set. It is strongly reproductive in effect and if used at the wrong time will result in stunted growth and lower yields. Used at the proper time, unprecedented resin formation takes place. It is used twice in a row (no water in between applications). Using Cat Drench late in bloom may increase certain flavors and smells, but it also results in a more "gamey" flavor in produce.

These are the basic instructions for using the kit! A few pointers:

When in doubt about which drench to use, use Growth Energy.
Stay tuned for instructions on how to recycle the soil for an improved second and third run. This saves money AND produces better results!

Where do you get the products ? :thanks:
 
Doc,

I was considering using some of these Eco Pots on my brix grow. Do you for see any problems using such pots?

I see Curso is watering from the bottom with good results, so I thought I might give these a shot.

Just a fancy rerservoir type pot like most garden centers have, but I like the design of these.

Also is a comparison photo from the tube showing regular pot, fabric pot, and the eco pot.

My house plant is in one of the similar garden center pots and its growing like crazy.

Water-Pot.jpg

eco_pot_compare.jpg
 
Doc,

I was considering using some of these Eco Pots on my brix grow. Do you for see any problems using such pots?

I see Curso is watering from the bottom with good results, so I thought I might give these a shot.

Just a fancy rerservoir type pot like most garden centers have, but I like the design of these.

Also is a comparison photo from the tube showing regular pot, fabric pot, and the eco pot.

My house plant is in one of the similar garden center pots and its growing like crazy.

Water-Pot.jpg

eco_pot_compare.jpg

I think that would be very interesting. You'll still need to top water when it comes to Recharge, EWC, fresh soil, etc.
 
Hi Doc Bud,

Newbie here without any posts yet. Can you PM me with info on your kit?

Thank you!
 
Hi Doc,

I am trying to better understand how to tell by looking at my plants when things like cat drench are ready. I was wondering if you could elaborate on what you mean by when the buds "set" in the cat drench instructions or show a picture of what you mean? I have two different varieties and even though they were flipped at the same time one started flowering right away and never stretched so it might be ready but I am not sure what i'm really looking for.

**Cat Drench: This is used right when buds set. It is strongly reproductive in effect and if used at the wrong time will result in stunted growth and lower yields. Used at the proper time, unprecedented resin formation takes place. It is used twice in a row (no water in between applications). Using Cat Drench late in bloom may increase certain flavors and smells, but it also results in a more "gamey" flavor in produce.

Here is the plant that flowered sooner. They were both flipped on 7/14 but this one started to flower before and then I put it back into veg the other ones didn't get all the way into flower and didn't get stunted like this one. This one has been trying to flower ever since I put the breaks on her.
IMAG06278.jpg


The other one to compare to.
IMAG06289.jpg



Thanks in advance!
 
To me all that looks like is a bunch of pistils without and buds beind them. If those were mine id do a water then another energy drench before the cat drench to fatten up those flowers a bit more. When i cat drench, the flowers are just starting to harden up and trichomes are just starting to show on the leaves (not capitate stalks but just lil white dots). When INITIAL pistil formation reaches its peak and you have good formation then its a good time. But thats just me...i could be an idiot lol :)
 
Here is the plant that flowered sooner. They were both flipped on 7/14 but this one started to flower before and then I put it back into veg the other ones didn't get all the way into flower and didn't get stunted like this one. This one has been trying to flower ever since I put the breaks on her.


Thanks in advance!

You induced photoperiod stress when you put it back into veg. It will start first with 3 bladed leaves, then go down to a single blade, with poor bud formation. It will never look quite right, but potency will still be fine. Bag appeal won't ever be there, but if you're growing for yourself you'll still enjoy it.

Never mess with the photoperiod!
 
You induced photoperiod stress when you put it back into veg. It will start first with 3 bladed leaves, then go down to a single blade, with poor bud formation. It will never look quite right, but potency will still be fine. Bag appeal won't ever be there, but if you're growing for yourself you'll still enjoy it.

Never mess with the photoperiod!

Yes I have made a couple mistakes with grow so far :( Mostly from thinking I remember what I read from months ago but I just didn't remember all of it. For example I remembered reading about you starting seeds from 12/12 but I forgot the part about you doing it only when you don't need clones. When I realized this and that they were showing sex when they were so small I flipped them back to veg because I was worried about not being able to get any clones. At least the two Amazonias didn't get all the way into flowering so I didn't mess them up as much as the plushberrys. As long as I get a good mom and at least some buds out of this grow I will be happy considering all of my mistakes so far :D

Also for the last month I was giving them tap water that still had chloramine in it. I thought after a week it would evap but this was another thing I remember incorrectly. At least they still look happy and on my next grow around hopefully most of these noobie mistakes will be behind me :D

I was also thinking the plushberry could use a shot of energy but didn't know if it would hurt anything giving it during the first few weeks of flowering since the directions say not to give energy at this time.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
To me all that looks like is a bunch of pistils without and buds beind them. If those were mine id do a water then another energy drench before the cat drench to fatten up those flowers a bit more. When i cat drench, the flowers are just starting to harden up and trichomes are just starting to show on the leaves (not capitate stalks but just lil white dots). When INITIAL pistil formation reaches its peak and you have good formation then its a good time. But thats just me...i could be an idiot lol :)

canuck, I'm in about the same place as smokey is with my plants being in the middle of week 3 @ 12/12. Pistils began forming at the end of week 1 of 12/12, so said another way, I'm on day 12 of flowering or pistil formation.

I made the mistake in the last grow of giving them the Cat drench too soon (week 3 of 12/12, not week 3 of flowering). Doc suggested I wait a week, which I did, but the colas never really filled in. The nodal spacing is better this time so I'm hopeful they will.

Having said that, I could use some guidance from you, Doc, or others and how to proceed. The Flowering watering schedule says to give them a CAT drench, but they're not ready. They haven't had Energy since I went to 12/12, so I'm thinking of doing that tomorrow, water in a week or so, and then giving them the CAT drench. Suggestions?

Also, do you flush before giving the CAT Drench? Doc's instructions suggest that is something to do to prior to the CD to switch from nuetral/growth to cationic/reproductive.

Thanks in advance. Any comments or suggestions you or others have will be appreciated.
 
canuck, I'm in about the same place as smokey is with my plants being in the middle of week 3 @ 12/12. Pistils began forming at the end of week 1 of 12/12, so said another way, I'm on day 12 of flowering or pistil formation.

I made the mistake in the last grow of giving them the Cat drench too soon (week 3 of 12/12, not week 3 of flowering). Doc suggested I wait a week, which I did, but the colas never really filled in. The nodal spacing is better this time so I'm hopeful they will.

Having said that, I could use some guidance from you, Doc, or others and how to proceed. The Flowering watering schedule says to give them a CAT drench, but they're not ready. They haven't had Energy since I went to 12/12, so I'm thinking of doing that tomorrow, water in a week or so, and then giving them the CAT drench. Suggestions?

Also, do you flush before giving the CAT Drench? Doc's instructions suggest that is something to do to prior to the CD to switch from nuetral/growth to cationic/reproductive.

Thanks in advance. Any comments or suggestions you or others have will be appreciated.

If they're not ready, feed with Transplant. Don't use Growth Energy till after the Cat Drench.....unless you want to skip the Cat Drench all together, in which case you can use Growth Energy now. If you're going to Cat Drench in a week, just feed Transplant.

I like to flush them. Wait 20 minutes and THEN pour in the Cat Drench. After the second Cat, flush again, wait 20 minutes and feed with the Energy.
 
If they're not ready, feed with Transplant. Don't use Growth Energy till after the Cat Drench.....unless you want to skip the Cat Drench all together, in which case you can use Growth Energy now. If you're going to Cat Drench in a week, just feed Transplant.

I like to flush them. Wait 20 minutes and THEN pour in the Cat Drench. After the second Cat, flush again, wait 20 minutes and feed with the Energy.

Doc, thanks. What ratio for the transplant? Using the "bloom phase" formula of ½ oz per six plants?
 
Just curious if anyone else has got a batch of promix hp that is seriously lacking in the perlite department? This bail had almost none. I didn't think about the possibility that the rest of it is messed up when I was mixing it I figured I could add perlite easily enough but now I am wondering if its even more messed up then that. Its always something with me I swear...

IMAG06528.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom