Spike69
2nd Place Plant, and 3rd Place Member of the Month
yours all look great.some Ive had to flower almost 3 mos. others 2 mos.
all widows
all widows
Hypo Hippy's first indoor grow
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- #262
Hypo Hippy
New Member
Spike....are the widows that slow to mature? I forget, what kind of lights are you using?
Spike69
2nd Place Plant, and 3rd Place Member of the Month
I have 250 hps- 6 68watt cfls 2700 they are the big twirly things on my last page,I just let them go till I get milky tris maybe a few amber,they all
take diff. times even the same kind.each plant is her own genes so.
take diff. times even the same kind.each plant is her own genes so.
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- #264
Hypo Hippy
New Member
Spike...I gotcha. We are using 400 HPS for flowering and hope these girls will do their thing in an expeditious manner...lol. Anyhow, thanks for the inputs.
StinkFinger
New Member
BAM, HH.
C.A.P. 15 Minute On Delay Timer - The HLC-2e by Custom Automated Products protects your light from Hot Starts.
R & M Supply, Inc. - C.A.P. 15 Minute On Delay Timer
As for the journal.
SF
Good post StinkyFinger (ewww)
Also I would imagine that the ones built for pc's would be good? They protect againt those surges and half second outages along with the battery back up aspect.
What I am not sure of is if they stay off once switched off. Anyone know if these are suitable?
Also I would imagine that the ones built for pc's would be good? They protect againt those surges and half second outages along with the battery back up aspect.
What I am not sure of is if they stay off once switched off. Anyone know if these are suitable?
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Hypo Hippy
New Member
Stinkfinger....thanks for that lil tidbit. I will definitely check it out my man.
Ok. Here's an update for tonight. Not trying to be paranoid, but these plants are making me that way. The leaf curling is still driving us nuts. Sometimes I can convince myself that it is just what these plants are going to do, but at other times I just think that it is something else and to quote my grow buddy "this shit ain't right. I don't know what it is, but whatever it is is fucked up." I guess that about sums it up. These pictures will show a clear example of what I am talking about. Light yellow leaves, curling leaves and on one plant several of the leaf petioles (stems) are starting to show red/purple. What's up? Any ideas.
Here is Gladys...she is the variagated-looking plant.
Here is Lucille...you can see where her original top is turning back up to the light.
Another shot of Lucille. This is one shows one of her secondary colas that has suddenly become the main top (because of the LST bondage on her former main top). The pic clearly shows the stems that have turned red. Is that normal or from some deficiency?
Thanks for the help guys....and any/all ideas are appreciated.
Ok. Here's an update for tonight. Not trying to be paranoid, but these plants are making me that way. The leaf curling is still driving us nuts. Sometimes I can convince myself that it is just what these plants are going to do, but at other times I just think that it is something else and to quote my grow buddy "this shit ain't right. I don't know what it is, but whatever it is is fucked up." I guess that about sums it up. These pictures will show a clear example of what I am talking about. Light yellow leaves, curling leaves and on one plant several of the leaf petioles (stems) are starting to show red/purple. What's up? Any ideas.
Here is Gladys...she is the variagated-looking plant.
Here is Lucille...you can see where her original top is turning back up to the light.
Another shot of Lucille. This is one shows one of her secondary colas that has suddenly become the main top (because of the LST bondage on her former main top). The pic clearly shows the stems that have turned red. Is that normal or from some deficiency?
Thanks for the help guys....and any/all ideas are appreciated.
StinkFinger
New Member
A battery backup probably wouldn't be very handy for a couple of reasons. One, depending how much wattage your light is, you could be looking at a pretty substantial battery backup (size (heavy) and wattage), they aren't cheap and they won't stay off if the power is restored, so if it's a brownout, it'll protect from a surge, but wouldn't protect from a "hot" start on the bulb. Second, a battery backup (for a computer) if loaded up to the maximum wattage, may only provide 4-15 minutes of necessary power to keep your lamp going. Best to use a rated "surge" protector, and take your chances with the hot start, or add a device like the CAP. I believe the new electronic ballasts allow for a quicker restart, but that doesn't prevent the bulb from burning out by not allowing the cool down.
HH, I see what you're talking about with your plants. Wish I felt comfortable enough to offer an opinion or suggestion. I'll leave those for more experienced to answer. I'm sorry. It looks like it's currently isolated to the top of the plants, have you modified your lighting recently?
Watching from the "bleachers"
SF
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- #269
Hypo Hippy
New Member
Stinky...thanks for chiming in. Yeah, I don't think a battery back-up is in my plans (although it is a nice idea). I will be checking into the protection device for the light/ballast. I am hoping that some of the "experts" will chime in and either give me a warm fuzzy or a fix for whatever is ailing my babes. Come on fellas...help another brother out.
Grower5280
New Member
Stinkfinger....thanks for that lil tidbit. I will definitely check it out my man.
Ok. Here's an update for tonight. Not trying to be paranoid, but these plants are making me that way. The leaf curling is still driving us nuts. Sometimes I can convince myself that it is just what these plants are going to do, but at other times I just think that it is something else and to quote my grow buddy "this shit ain't right. I don't know what it is, but whatever it is is fucked up." I guess that about sums it up. These pictures will show a clear example of what I am talking about. Light yellow leaves, curling leaves and on one plant several of the leaf petioles (stems) are starting to show red/purple. What's up? Any ideas.
Here is Gladys...she is the variagated-looking plant.
Here is Lucille...you can see where her original top is turning back up to the light.
Another shot of Lucille. This is one shows one of her secondary colas that has suddenly become the main top (because of the LST bondage on her former main top). The pic clearly shows the stems that have turned red. Is that normal or from some deficiency?
Thanks for the help guys....and any/all ideas are appreciated.
If it was a hydro gro I would say it's a mag def. You using calmag? If you are using ro water, you should be.
In my area we have a lot of momentary power outages. The UPS idea probably works much better in such cases than it does in areas where outages last longer than a minute or two. Either way, the better units do provide cleaner power at more consistent levels. Unfortunately, the ones that have a decent level of power - able to provide, say, 680 watts or more and do so while working at around half-capacity instead of being maxed out to do so - are quite expensive. While it is easy to find units with high "VA" ratings, there seem to be far less that actually provide high wattage levels. Looks more like the higher VA units just provide the same lower(ish) wattages for longer time. I played around with APC's power requirement script on their website and setting it for the level needed to power a single 600-watt light causes the run-time of most of their producs to show "--:--" or just a couple of minutes. The mad-scientist in me wonders about creating something with a HD transformer and an entire rack of deep-cycle marine (, golf cart, etc.) batteries feeding a simple line conditioner - but the realist in me enjoys living in a house and doesn't want to burn it down over an experiment, lol.
I hadn't even thought of the delayed-start timers that keep lights from hot-starting when the power returns. +REPs to StinkFinger, if I'm able. Those things sound like a great idea. I guess the best solution would be the biggest (delivered watts and VA capacity) UPS coupled with one of those delayed-start devices. It would keep the lights (and anything else that one considered to be mission-critical) running as long as possible - and with cleaner power - and ensure that they were restarted safely. But that could run from several hundred to well over a thousand dollars <YIKES!>.
Have you posted in the Problems, Pests, & Disease Control sub-forum?
MountainHigh
New Member
Hey Hypo...can you describe your nute schedule for me...
I have an idea but until I know your watering/feeding schedule and % of recommended on your nutes you are using and which ones.
I did a bit of reading. Your plant has the classic sign of a calcium deficiency. Your problem is with an immobile element (only travels one time in the sap from the roots). But I also seen plants like yours that were just over nuted (typically too much nitrogen) and it caused a partial lockout.
So my suggestion would be to lower your nutes to 3/4 and if you was already at 3/4 lower it to 1/2 and see...if the problem worsens then get some Cal-Mag. Some plants are more sensitive to nutes than others.
That is all I got bro, hope something helps, and I hope grow support drops by. Or you could whisper them. I know they don't have time to read every journal.
P.S. Get a good reading on your soil ph too, get a decent amount of runoff.
I have an idea but until I know your watering/feeding schedule and % of recommended on your nutes you are using and which ones.
I did a bit of reading. Your plant has the classic sign of a calcium deficiency. Your problem is with an immobile element (only travels one time in the sap from the roots). But I also seen plants like yours that were just over nuted (typically too much nitrogen) and it caused a partial lockout.
So my suggestion would be to lower your nutes to 3/4 and if you was already at 3/4 lower it to 1/2 and see...if the problem worsens then get some Cal-Mag. Some plants are more sensitive to nutes than others.
That is all I got bro, hope something helps, and I hope grow support drops by. Or you could whisper them. I know they don't have time to read every journal.
P.S. Get a good reading on your soil ph too, get a decent amount of runoff.
lol, yeahh best to keep the house safe I think..
That is exactly what we get here, lots o very short outages that instantly come back on again, usually due to wind. That is what I am looking to protect against personally but you are right, covering all angles is just wayyyy expensive. Hving the language barrier also doesnt hlp getting advise of course, conversational language is one thing, specifics in niche subjects are quite another.
HYPO, I see loadddddds o plants that yellow a little like this, it seems very common amigo so do not panic just yet. Try adjusting the nutes slightly a bit at a time as Mountain suggests, alternatively Ask in the appropriate support forum kinda thing as there are so many journals of course for the real experts to follow.
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- #274
Hypo Hippy
New Member
Grower,TS, Mountain, and 3Lions.....thanks for the advice/inputs. I am not freaking out (since the plants seem to be doing ok) just a little concerned because I think they should be doing better at this point.
Grower...No, we are not using CalMag. Not using RO water either (just Brita filtered tap water that sits for at least a day in the grow room). Has anyone got a good dosage for Epsom salts? That is a good mag source too I think.
MountainH....to answer your question our typical nute regimen at this point of flowering is 1 Tbs of Happy Frog bat guano dry mix (0-5-0 which I was told by another grower was a decent sub for Tiger Bloom) , 1/2 tsp of Open Sesame, 2 Tbs of Big Bloom (we were using the early 2 Tbs dose because we got the Big Bloom late in the game and have only given it two times, we are reducing it to 1 Tbs per from here on out), two drops of Superthrive, and a Tbs of molasses per gallon. If the plants look a little needy for nitrogen, we will add 1 Tbs of MG organic fertilizer that is 8-0-0 and is derived from sugarbeet molasses or 1 Tbs of Grow Big. All of these concentrations are at or below the rec rates on the charts. Our pH in the runoff was 6.58-6.6 during the last watering.
I am open to suggestions and have seen lots of photos that show plants with red petioles, but just want to cover my bases and not get caught slacking. The stems just turned red in the last day or so.
Thanks in advance for the help.OUT
Grower...No, we are not using CalMag. Not using RO water either (just Brita filtered tap water that sits for at least a day in the grow room). Has anyone got a good dosage for Epsom salts? That is a good mag source too I think.
MountainH....to answer your question our typical nute regimen at this point of flowering is 1 Tbs of Happy Frog bat guano dry mix (0-5-0 which I was told by another grower was a decent sub for Tiger Bloom) , 1/2 tsp of Open Sesame, 2 Tbs of Big Bloom (we were using the early 2 Tbs dose because we got the Big Bloom late in the game and have only given it two times, we are reducing it to 1 Tbs per from here on out), two drops of Superthrive, and a Tbs of molasses per gallon. If the plants look a little needy for nitrogen, we will add 1 Tbs of MG organic fertilizer that is 8-0-0 and is derived from sugarbeet molasses or 1 Tbs of Grow Big. All of these concentrations are at or below the rec rates on the charts. Our pH in the runoff was 6.58-6.6 during the last watering.
I am open to suggestions and have seen lots of photos that show plants with red petioles, but just want to cover my bases and not get caught slacking. The stems just turned red in the last day or so.
Thanks in advance for the help.
OUT
Hey Hippy, maybe try cutting back on the molasses for a little bit and let's see if anything happens... I have been keeping an eye on this, but have no answers as of yet.. Have you changed anything in the last 2-4 weeks? PH,environmental, nutes, anything.... Also, know that the fix is not going to be overnight, give any changes a little bit of time to take affect.. Has the growth stalled out? Hang in their man, some problems take longer to figure out then others.....
It could be Calcium tho the ph seems fine. Rust spots and purple tops of stems on new growth are pointers to Calcium lockout I have learned somewhere here. Purple stems means could also be Sulphur related or even nitrogen. arghhh
Ahh twas in this thread somewhere
Have posted you a private message u may find useful
Ahh twas in this thread somewhere
Have posted you a private message u may find useful
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- #277
Hypo Hippy
New Member
Irie...sorry my man, I missed that you posted earlier. I appreciate and welcome your inputs. We have actually only watered with the molasses twice thus far. The leaf curling has been going on for almost a month. I am open to just about anything though. I know you are right about being patient and giving the plants time to recover. We really haven't changed anything in the last several weeks expect switching from MH to HPS and the nute regimen has changed to the flowering cycle. The leaf curling has not been a recent phenomenon just may have been exaggerated by the stretching that is natural during flowering. The plants don't seem to be hurting any and are growing daily (have to move the light up every day 1-2 inches) with lots of new leaf/bud sites popping up. Sorry I missed your post.
3L...thanks again my man.
3L...thanks again my man.
Aprentice
New Member
Hey Brother
Only thing I can think to do is Flush them. Leaf curlers..
Might be a bit of nutrient lockout. A good flush should do it.
Plain ph water for a week, if the flush worked there should be
some new growth.... repeat if necessary.
Back on track, light on the nutes first week, then to full strength.
Hope it helps.
Only thing I can think to do is Flush them. Leaf curlers..
Might be a bit of nutrient lockout. A good flush should do it.
Plain ph water for a week, if the flush worked there should be
some new growth.... repeat if necessary.
Back on track, light on the nutes first week, then to full strength.
Hope it helps.
Hate to keep asking dumb questions but could it have something to do with the lime you added (way back when) finally starting to break down and maybe giving you ever-so-slightly doctored pH readings when you check your runoff?
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