How to grow in Coco: Feed schedule

pino0911 said:
M gonna check it out m not a professional by no means but I m growing in coco also. What nutes r u using n have u been on top of pH. Most problems occur due to pH. If that's off everything is off.

Pino's Coco & Perlite - Thunderpaws - First Grow Ever 2017
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As Cult suggested Micro Grow Bloom as base nutes also Voodoo once a week used great white on transplant and soaked the jiffy cubes in the solution he provided. Due to money issues using Dutch Pro Take Root instead of What was recommended. Also 1 drop of superthrive per 4L and .5ml per L of calmag started using calmag recently after my plants looked abit sick. Just bought a new ph pen ph is now 5.7 was previously using drop test and how accurate can i be with a colour .so decided it was a good investment well worth the pennies it cost .


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johnnyblazeon said:
Cult theres so many different opinions and so many different techniques what do you find works best for coco watering wise? Should i ever water to run off even slight run off ? Worrying im just not watering enough and that im watering to regularly as some people are saying water to run of in coco then every so many days when the top 3/4 inch or so is dry? Any help would be great man

Edit: i know its not good for coco to go dry but does that even mean the "topsoil" so to speak the top 3/4 / 1 inch of it? No idea, i make coco sound so complicated its unreal.
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Water every day if possible but skipping a day here and there to let them dry out isn't a big deal. The trick is how much to give them based on how much the roots can take up. Growing in fabric pots allows me to see where my roots are at before I flip to flower. I think it was Culitvator in fact where I read to try not to flip until the roots had filled out the pot. This concept makes watering pretty easy. Anything less then full becomes a guess on how much water to give them and the roots still keep growing. When the roots have filled out the pot already, they can't go anywhere else so they begin to focus on beefing up the plant.

You should always lift your pot after you have given them a full watering. That is the heaviest those pots will be. Try lifting them every 8 hours or so and see if you notice a difference. It is very clear to me when mine is ready for watering again just based off this concept. You can then kind of get on a schedule. I only give mine water once a day and I think lots of people overwater in their first 4 weeks of veg with coco. "Less is More".

EDIT: I have subscribed to your grow journal and will read it later tonight and try and help out there. Take a deep breath. Nice part about coco is you can correct things very quick.
 
you should feed everyday in coco. if you only feed every 3 or 4 days you are not getting the benefit of growing hydroponically and therefore should grow in soil. feeding every few days can actually have a negative impact when growing in coco as it means you get ec and ph spikes.

you cant over water coco but there is an optimal amount to water. you have to build it up as the root ball grows. i never feed to run off. my plants only get run off when i flush them. thats not to say you cant do that.

if hand feeding once per day is enough. give enough so that the pot is light to lift but not completely dry 24 hours later. that way you arent attracting fungus gnats by having constantly wet coco and you will not get lots run off each time you feed.

however you do it you must feed daily for best results. dont listen to anyone who read it in a book or has only done a few grows. they can have an opinion but they dont have the experience to say do this or that. No experienced coco grower would tell anyone to feed only every 3 or 4 days. That is soil growing and its a completely different thing.

good luck.

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Cultivator said:
you should feed everyday in coco. if you only feed every 3 or 4 days you are not getting the benefit of growing hydroponically and therefore should grow in soil. feeding every few days can actually have a negative impact when growing in coco as it means you get ec and ph spikes.

you cant over water coco but there is an optimal amount to water. you have to build it up as the root ball grows. i never feed to run off. my plants only get run off when i flush them. thats not to say you cant do that.

if hand feeding once per day is enough. give enough so that the pot is light to lift but not completely dry 24 hours later. that way you arent attracting fungus gnats by having constantly wet coco and you will not get lots run off each time you feed.

however you do it you must feed daily for best results. dont listen to anyone who read it in a book or has only done a few grows. they can have an opinion but they dont have the experience to say do this or that. No experienced coco grower would tell anyone to feed only every 3 or 4 days. That is soil growing and its a completely different thing.

good luck.

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Well said + reps
 
hi Im new to grow in coco , but i would like to ask ab this since i also use drip system. The only problem i have is whenever i mix nutrients together and Ph them down to 5.8 ( my tap water is 7.5) and after i turned the air pump ON and leave it, 12 hours later i checked the ph again and it raised to 7.6ph. So my question is will it affect to my girls ? however i dont see any problems with my girls at all. I saw people said usually change water for 1 or 2 weeks but i cant keep my PH stayble for even 2 days. What can i do when i use air pump? without airpump the PH is very stayable, only rised to 6.5 max.

Thanks in advanced
 
you need to readjust ph back into range. its normal for ph to climb after initial mix with a lot of nutrients. all an airstone does is aerate the water and remove chlorine and its better to use one if possible.

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The main reason why the pH of water changes overnight is due to CO2 gassing off. That process is accelerated by adding an airstone.

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AllInn said:
The main reason why the pH of water changes overnight is due to CO2 gassing off. That process is accelerated by adding an airstone.

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That is what I have found also.

I have found it best to make up a nute mix for what ever quantity your using, let it sit a min. of 24 hrs, I make my mixes 48 + hrs in advance. This allows the mix to stabilize and therefore hold the pH longer or move the pH very slowly upward. Just MHO.

GR
 
Anyone know how i can fix this? Originally thought nutrient burn but it hasnt started at the tip?
420-magazine-mobile1730004397.jpg
420-magazine-mobile1339214970.jpg


And this is also showing on a couple plants
420-magazine-mobile1722114730.jpg





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johnnyblazeon said:
Anyone know how i can fix this? Originally thought nutrient burn but it hasnt started at the tip?
420-magazine-mobile1730004397.jpg
420-magazine-mobile1339214970.jpg


And this is also showing on a couple plants
420-magazine-mobile1722114730.jpg





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Click to expand...

JB,
What is your nute base, are you using a Cal/mag supplement?
 
johnnyblazeon said:
Advanced Nutrients MGB and yeah using calmag supplement now .5ml per L

Just not my year with these problems! Only I could make it so complicated lmao

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Click to expand...


When did you start with the cal/mag. I have had that problem before.
If you are using reduced nutes, of any brand, you have to supplement the Cal/Mag, I use Cal/Magic and have had no problem since i began using it.
Most of the Coco specific nute give you their recommended rates, they normally have the needed amount of CAL and Mag so no supplement is needed. But when we begin backing off their given numbers you have to add it back. What I do is use it to get my rainwater in line for adding my Canna nutes, the 4 gallons of rainwater is around 6 ppm so I add around 5 + ml to get it to 0.2 ec that is my goal to start my nute mix.

I have posted this before but don't remember where.

*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty.

I personally will peak out at around 600 ppm for one to two weeks then begin backing off, am at 500 ppm at present and will be at 400 starting next week for around two weeks, 300 for the final week or tro then the flush and harvest. Never cut you base nute off completely during the grow until it is time to flush.

Calimagic/a+b ratio (approx. 20 ppm Cal/ml)
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350 (7+ml)
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400 (5+ml)
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450 (2.5ml)

*5.8 ph*

This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct.
3ml/gal =.4 ec=200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5ml/gal =.6 ec=300 ppm with around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2ml/gal =.8 ec=400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7ml/gal= 1 ec =500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2ml/gal=1.2 ec=600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium.........

Need around 150 ppm of calcium alone.....so even if when I'm at 200 ppm if I only added 100 ppm of calimagic, only 75 is calcium so I would still be short. So to get the 150+ ppm needed of Cal/Mag I would use around 140 to 150 ppm per gallon of Cal/Magic. Having extra Cal/Mag will not hurt your plants but not having enough and you see what can happen.

This Calcium information is purely based on a Canna schedule, using calimagic. As I stated, once you hit around 700 ppm you no longer need cal/mag additives.

I hope this is not to confusing, it took me a bit to figure it out.


GR
 
gr865 said:
When did you start with the cal/mag. I have had that problem before.
If you are using reduced nutes, of any brand, you have to supplement the Cal/Mag, I use Cal/Magic and have had no problem since i began using it.
Most of the Coco specific nute give you their recommended rates, they normally have the needed amount of CAL and Mag so no supplement is needed. But when we begin backing off their given numbers you have to add it back. What I do is use it to get my rainwater in line for adding my Canna nutes, the 4 gallons of rainwater is around 6 ppm so I add around 5 + ml to get it to 0.2 ec that is my goal to start my nute mix.

I have posted this before but don't remember where.

*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty.

I personally will peak out at around 600 ppm for one to two weeks then begin backing off, am at 500 ppm at present and will be at 400 starting next week for around two weeks, 300 for the final week or tro then the flush and harvest. Never cut you base nute off completely during the grow until it is time to flush.

Calimagic/a+b ratio (approx. 20 ppm Cal/ml)
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350 (7+ml)
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400 (5+ml)
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450 (2.5ml)

*5.8 ph*

This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct.
3ml/gal =.4 ec=200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5ml/gal =.6 ec=300 ppm with around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2ml/gal =.8 ec=400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7ml/gal= 1 ec =500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2ml/gal=1.2 ec=600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium.........

Need around 150 ppm of calcium alone.....so even if when I'm at 200 ppm if I only added 100 ppm of calimagic, only 75 is calcium so I would still be short. So to get the 150+ ppm needed of Cal/Mag I would use around 140 to 150 ppm per gallon of Cal/Magic. Having extra Cal/Mag will not hurt your plants but not having enough and you see what can happen.

This Calcium information is purely based on a Canna schedule, using calimagic. As I stated, once you hit around 700 ppm you no longer need cal/mag additives.

I hope this is not to confusing, it took me a bit to figure it out.


GR
Click to expand...

Thanks alot for this! I bought it about 4ish days ago the new growth is showing no signs of deficiencies so hopefully will be okay!


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gr865 said:
When did you start with the cal/mag. I have had that problem before.
If you are using reduced nutes, of any brand, you have to supplement the Cal/Mag, I use Cal/Magic and have had no problem since i began using it.
Most of the Coco specific nute give you their recommended rates, they normally have the needed amount of CAL and Mag so no supplement is needed. But when we begin backing off their given numbers you have to add it back. What I do is use it to get my rainwater in line for adding my Canna nutes, the 4 gallons of rainwater is around 6 ppm so I add around 5 + ml to get it to 0.2 ec that is my goal to start my nute mix.

I have posted this before but don't remember where.

*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty.

I personally will peak out at around 600 ppm for one to two weeks then begin backing off, am at 500 ppm at present and will be at 400 starting next week for around two weeks, 300 for the final week or tro then the flush and harvest. Never cut you base nute off completely during the grow until it is time to flush.

Calimagic/a+b ratio (approx. 20 ppm Cal/ml)
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350 (7+ml)
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400 (5+ml)
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450 (2.5ml)

*5.8 ph*

This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct.
3ml/gal =.4 ec=200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5ml/gal =.6 ec=300 ppm with around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2ml/gal =.8 ec=400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7ml/gal= 1 ec =500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2ml/gal=1.2 ec=600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium.........

Need around 150 ppm of calcium alone.....so even if when I'm at 200 ppm if I only added 100 ppm of calimagic, only 75 is calcium so I would still be short. So to get the 150+ ppm needed of Cal/Mag I would use around 140 to 150 ppm per gallon of Cal/Magic. Having extra Cal/Mag will not hurt your plants but not having enough and you see what can happen.

This Calcium information is purely based on a Canna schedule, using calimagic. As I stated, once you hit around 700 ppm you no longer need cal/mag additives.

I hope this is not to confusing, it took me a bit to figure it out.


GR
Click to expand...

....
Ok so I have
fox farm trio... (big bloom, grow big and tiger bloom)
Cal/mag
Super thrive
Rhino skin
A ppm and ph reader

Please correct me if I'm wrong or you believe (based on experience and not opinion) you have a better approach...
I'm gunning for 400 - 500 ppm with all the above. about 25-30% Recommended amount to start. And now I know after mixing nutes.... check PH... then sit for 24-36 hrs and check again the ph and from there good 2 go.
Should I check the ph after only or before I put nutrient in and afterwards??

I'm on a drain to waste coco only getting a little run off based and solid recommendations (@Cultivator.)
The Biel twins (blue dream fem) are the ladies I'm working with. There still young (plz go to my journal link below I really appreciate all the info and help.)
So far any . or welll .. thanks in advance folks.

Cultivator... my apologies if we're intruding in ur journal/topic but bro ur a OG. You obviously have a wealth of knowledge. There's a reason why so many great minds come to this thread/topic among so many. Just trying to learn from the great botanical minds. Said with great respect.


Wanna challenge? I need the villages to help!! Teach this young padawan your ways Jedi Masters... help me grow...

NewB Grower Going To Need Your Help

NewB Grower Going To Need Your Help
 
Cultivator said:
Coco needs fed everyday because it is hydroponic. You want to keep coco nutrient and ph at optimum levels. The nutes are stored differently than if it was a soil grow. You would get peaks and troughs if you didnt feed everyday.

For sure the nutrient bill is higher than soil but the yields will make up for that.

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How do you deal with fungus gnats?? I began feeding everyday and now I have them again. :(

I knowI have to feed them but I don´t want to keep the coco moist for the larvae.

Thank you Cultivator!
 
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