High Brix

Hey DocBud got a couple of questions for you. I veg my plants at one location and flower at another. I have county water at the veg and well at the flower.
The vegging plants look very dark green and shiny and the plants at the flowering location are healthy and green but they are a lot more pale in color and only some leaves are shiny. I am thinking its because there is cal/mag in the municipal supply and maybe not so much in the well water.
If I am correct then can I add some cal/mag to my tea's and water or will I have to foliar spray only?
I have the 6/5/3 powders in a cooked soil.
question two:
So I have been good and only used a very little bit of chickidy doo doo in my last tea to help keep the energy up. I still have some trouble reading my plants so I add very small amounts of hydrolized fish ferts when I water just in case my microbes aren't getting enough food to the plants. What I'm getting to is I'm going out of town and my grow partner will be at the helm for the first three weeks of flower.

I have to convince him that the plants will flower properly without changing our normal compost tea one week and a light dose of either chicken litter or fish the next week. I don't know exactly how the plants and microbes work together during the transition on into flowering stage. I just know it works by seeing your results. Do you have a readers digest version of what takes place below the soil to get these girls flowering properly without changing the schedule?

Thanks in advance, Gittergreen
 
Hey DocBud got a couple of questions for you. I veg my plants at one location and flower at another. I have county water at the veg and well at the flower.
The vegging plants look very dark green and shiny and the plants at the flowering location are healthy and green but they are a lot more pale in color and only some leaves are shiny. I am thinking its because there is cal/mag in the municipal supply and maybe not so much in the well water.
If I am correct then can I add some cal/mag to my tea's and water or will I have to foliar spray only?
I have the 6/5/3 powders in a cooked soil.
question two:
So I have been good and only used a very little bit of chickidy doo doo in my last tea to help keep the energy up. I still have some trouble reading my plants so I add very small amounts of hydrolized fish ferts when I water just in case my microbes aren't getting enough food to the plants. What I'm getting to is I'm going out of town and my grow partner will be at the helm for the first three weeks of flower.

I have to convince him that the plants will flower properly without changing our normal compost tea one week and a light dose of either chicken litter or fish the next week. I don't know exactly how the plants and microbes work together during the transition on into flowering stage. I just know it works by seeing your results. Do you have a readers digest version of what takes place below the soil to get these girls flowering properly without changing the schedule?

Thanks in advance, Gittergreen

RE calcium/magnesium in water: Did you test the municipal water? Well Water? The water in my unit is disgusting. It's non-potable at times, usually around 900 ppm or so, pH 8.6.....just wretched. It's well water!!!

It could be that your well water sucks like mine and adding calmag would make it worse? I dunno, but testing the water would answer your questions. The city might even have a water report online.

RE Feeding/changing during Flowering:

You added the minerals, you have microbial activity in the soil, and humus to support it. The plant has everything it needs and a healthy army of microbes, glomus, nematodes, fungi, etc. As the flowering hormones trigger root growth, and other changes that take place in the bloom phase, the plant tells the Biota (all the living stuff in the soil) what food to bring around. It's all in the soil.

We're too stupid to feed the plants correctly. Let nature take over....easier for us, far better product.
 
Doc,

The plants look Amazing.. I wont lie I am a sucker for frost.. I follow a few green avengers on The "tube for You" Named Farmer John and Mr. Spliff who use Advanced and their plants get amazingly frosty but I will say your plants sure do compare especially for how much time you have left.. Its crazy because the frost on your plants just look different.. IDK maybe its just me.. I will say Doc i think you are over worrying about yield and I think those bad boys are gonna bulk right on up for you.. Have you made any hash from those sugar leaves and if so how does it compare to past grows??
 
Doc,

The plants look Amazing.. I wont lie I am a sucker for frost.. I follow a few green avengers on The "tube for You" Named Farmer John and Mr. Spliff who use Advanced and their plants get amazingly frosty but I will say your plants sure do compare especially for how much time you have left.. Its crazy because the frost on your plants just look different.. IDK maybe its just me.. I will say Doc i think you are over worrying about yield and I think those bad boys are gonna bulk right on up for you.. Have you made any hash from those sugar leaves and if so how does it compare to past grows??

I haven"t made hash from the new stuff yet, because.....well, it's still growing. But the hash from teh most recent soil is blonde and very tasty.

But you're right, the frosting on these leaves is different. I've never seen anything like it.
 
DocBud,

Any plans to send off a sample of your harvest for THC:CBD analysis? Ballparking the CBD percentage against seeds of similar genotype could be immensely useful. Feel free to PM me.

BTW, strong work.

Take Care,
HWM
 
DocBud,

Any plans to send off a sample of your harvest for THC:CBD analysis? Ballparking the CBD percentage against seeds of similar genotype could be immensely useful. Feel free to PM me.

BTW, strong work.

Take Care,
HWM

Yep. I'm planning on sending samples to SteepHill Labs, in Berkeley Ca.

Wow soooo frosty :yummy:, you are really dialing in this Supersoil/High brix. I hope I can go this route when I start my GDP, thank you for opening my eyes to this!

Positive Vibes,
Strickly420 :ganjamon:

You're welcome! I've finally gotten into the "zone" of high brix with the latest soil. There are still a few minor tweaks here and there, mainly with magnesium and potassium, but overall I'm ecstatic with what's going on. The next pictures should be interesting.....
 
:adore::adore::adore:

Right, now I've got that out of my system, I have been following for some time, enviously and admiringly, do you think I would have any ‘Little High Brix’ benefit from growing in a mineralised high Brix medium on an NFT tray with constantly running Microbial Tea?

:helpsmilie:

Can you be more specific by "mineralized high brix medium?" I know what NFT is, but I'm not tracking with you on the medium. Sounds interesting!

Hydro can grow some really nice, extremely potent product. There's no doubt about it! But it is quite different than high brix. You'd have to try it.
 
Apologies or sincerest thanks to Icemud,:thumb:


4 pots of promix HP Unavailable, spent bean soil?
1 Pot of Happy Frog Is this essential?
1 Pot of Perlite check
1 Pot of Worm Casings (with added volcanic rock and sea kelp) check
1 Pot of Alaskan Forest Humus Forest of Dean humus?

Then for the mineralization additives...
2.5 cups of Calcium Carbonate Check
2 cups of Soft Rock Phosphate Check
1.5 cups of garden gypsum Check



1 cup of lava sand check
1.5 cups of greensand check
1 cup of humic acid powder still looking
1.5 cups of azomite check
1 cup of high P guano check
1 cup of mycos maximum checkNot yet, rain forest?
1/2 cup of dry molasses checkNot yet, rain forest?
1 cup of high N guano check


Due to space restrictions I would limit the pot size to 3.5l, with a 25l reservoir for roots to Colonize.


:thanks:
 
Apologies or sincerest thanks to Icemud,:thumb:


4 pots of promix HP Unavailable, spent bean soil?
1 Pot of Happy Frog Is this essential?
1 Pot of Perlite check
1 Pot of Worm Casings (with added volcanic rock and sea kelp) check
1 Pot of Alaskan Forest Humus Forest of Dean humus?

Then for the mineralization additives...
2.5 cups of Calcium Carbonate Check
2 cups of Soft Rock Phosphate Check
1.5 cups of garden gypsum Check



1 cup of lava sand check
1.5 cups of greensand check
1 cup of humic acid powder still looking
1.5 cups of azomite check
1 cup of high P guano check
1 cup of mycos maximum checkNot yet, rain forest?
1/2 cup of dry molasses checkNot yet, rain forest?
1 cup of high N guano check


Due to space restrictions I would limit the pot size to 3.5l, with a 25l reservoir for roots to Colonize.


:thanks:

Wrong journal bro! That's Icemud's mix. Mine's quite different.
 
Everything is still alive, still growing, fattening, getting sticky and messy.....very nice!

In veg, the goal is a root system. I want the roots to fill up every inch of gallon pots before I put clones into bloom. Seeds can start on 12/12 or veg them, either way a strong root system is the goal. If you look at these pics of a veg area you see some plants that are wilting. They needed water 4 hours ago, but will recover just fine after watering today. The 1.5 gallon pots are all roots....they'll go into bloom early next week, after I take a few cuttings from each.

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The rest of the garden is doing well, getting fatter, frostier, and stickier. Fan leaves are falling off 2 weeks behind schedule, but they're falling off fast now. Bud production just puts a smile on my face. They're more dense and far more resin-caked than anything I've grown to date.

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Wow doc those are bad ass!!!!! I am amazed how easy it is to obtain those results, if people only knew;)
'yep, it really is pretty easy. But getting a proper environment is expected in order to get the same results I'm getting.

How late into bloom do you spray your girls?

I spray them right up until harvest, but I'm using professionally designed products and spraying a fine mist, on the undersides of the leaves as much as possible. The buds don't get saturated, just a bit moist. They're pretty much waterproof right now due to resin. The last pics don't do them justice..
 
Yep. I'm planning on sending samples to SteepHill Labs, in Berkeley Ca.



You're welcome! I've finally gotten into the "zone" of high brix with the latest soil. There are still a few minor tweaks here and there, mainly with magnesium and potassium, but overall I'm ecstatic with what's going on. The next pictures should be interesting.....

I'm really curious about how your test's for cannabinoids will turn out, I have been wondering how it would rate vs other types. Are you growing the same cuts/genetics as your partner right now? Would be awesome to see a comparison of the best of hydro vs the best of High brix.. Just my guess but I think that the HBX would have a much more diverse spread, and probably higher total Cannabinoids. Whats your thoughts?
 
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