Herbies Desserts to Sweeten Your Day @ Otters

These are in kind of a constant drench as they are SIP's. That's how my mind sees it. Kind of. Do you have a special definition for drench? Moving water, amount of moving water through?
I've only bottom water my SIPs through the reservoir and the bottom several inches stay  very wet, like underwater wet. That's what I mean by drenched. I recently soaked the entire pot from above with a 1x pot size mini-flush that drenched the soil pretty good top to bottom and then I let it drink up that water over the subsequent days.

I plan to top water weekly, but not that heavily. Maybe more like 1/4 of pot size from the top.
 
What is your VPD like? Is this plant in a place that is dryer or receives more air flow than others? I see K in the same patterns I get it when they’re budding hard in a dry environment. You either need more K in your mix, better VPD or your calcium is antagonizing your K due to an imbalance. I start with the easiest first, VPD.
1.16 vpd yesterday's last peek. This is the soil that came back from the soil test maybe you remember? Everything was super high but in balance so it's in there. I went with C antagonizing yesterday and didn't give them their shot of cal/mag.. Something's still up, could have been my ro, maybe Gee has a point with o2 deprivation in the root zone. I'm top watering that soil that doesn't get that used in my SIP's that I may have started roots in, in the week of top watering initially.
Stone do you have a refractometer? I wonder how your calcium is. If it's really really fuzzy on the reading it could be your 1st thought, calcium messing with P.

It looks more environmental, but those curled tips look like nute burn. High calcium can do that
I do, I'll check that out today. Meanwhile I'll keep off the cal/mag add in there. It's happening to them all now.
 
1.16 vpd yesterday's last peek. This is the soil that came back from the soil test maybe you remember? Everything was super high but in balance so it's in there. I went with C antagonizing yesterday and didn't give them their shot of cal/mag.. Something's still up, could have been my ro, maybe Gee has a point with o2 deprivation in the root zone. I'm top watering that soil that doesn't get that used in my SIP's that I may have started roots in, in the week of top watering initially.

I do, I'll check that out today. Meanwhile I'll keep off the cal/mag add in there. It's happening to them all now.
I strongly suspect it's Sips Syndrome and you somehow changed something and your sips are too wet now. 5 weeks into flower is where it shows for a lot of sipper/swickers.

You nailed it previously, but now it has you. Look at your physicalities, not your soil ammendments or environment.

What change has upped your soil moisture? autowatering? the wick/foot size or consistency? a different perlite ratio? heavier or added soil carbon? that sort of thing.

But 1st brix them and see what the calcium line says. If it's crisp then its calcium, if it's fuzzy it's likely hunger or O2.

Overwet will deprive O2.

Are you sure you never added any high P solutions that could hurt myco?

The timing says Sips Syndrome.
 
Overwet will deprive O2.
I'm having a feeling. This run when I touch the top of the soil, not that I've done that on the others, it seems too wet for being the top of a pot of soil to me. I remember sealing the mulch cover up nice and tight with tape where I cut it, that could be a contributor. Hmmmm, maybe I'll skip the top water and just remove the covers for bark. No, those roots need water now, they need a schedule. My watering can is 1.6 ltrs, so every other day for starts. I hope this helps
 
Ok good, that eliminates a major item.👍👊
Two handfuls of perlite went into each pots soil is a change. This soil has been amended by the book to the best of my abilities. V2 solo mix has no added perlite or other similar component. It's been amended 4 or 6 times, maybe more and has never had a cup of perlite to the mix! Maybe that lack of perlite made this soil work before and two cups more/10 gallons not now? The question is did it improve wicking to create too much moisture up top? I don't think so but it is a change and I have to list it.
 
So, if your soil was/is too wet you need to be aware of something here.

If you strip the plastic that will let air in for sure, but even if you have roots up top that were started from top watering, they have lived in wet conditions since the plastic went on.

They are water roots even if they look like feeder roots.

They will convert but at your stage in flower, a 10-14 day conversion time is gonna hurt.

Myco regulates water, so if you do a myco rinse as per your myco instructions it will lessen the blow considerably. It's expensive, as you will see when you read the mixing instructions, but it will help.

After that, frequent small waterings from above will cater to the hydroponic roots up top and allow air, just be very gentle when you water. Use the res too, don't neglect the bottom roots.If either top or bottom roots dry out too fast they will convert, but yield will suffer a lot.

You will lose density as you are about to start stacking and hardening, and neither will be optimal if the plant is using energy to convert roots.

Lotsa work but manageable.

But check calcium and brix 1st.

Some hydrolysed fish ferts up top, only a litre or so a week, to keep it out of the res, will also help myco regulate water.
 
Two handfuls of perlite went into each pots soil is a change. This soil has been amended by the book to the best of my abilities. V2 solo mix has no added perlite or other similar component. It's been amended 4 or 6 times, maybe more and has never had a cup of perlite to the mix! Maybe that lack of perlite made this soil work before and two cups more/10 gallons not now? The question is did it improve wicking to create too much moisture up top? I don't think so but it is a change and I have to list it.
I doubt it, a couple handfuls isn't much.
 
So, if your soil was/is too wet you need to be aware of something here.

If you strip the plastic that will let air in for sure, but even if you have roots up top that were started from top watering, they have lived in wet conditions since the plastic went on.

They are water roots even if they look like feeder roots.

They will convert but at your stage in flower, a 10-14 day conversion time is gonna hurt.

Myco regulates water, so if you do a myco rinse as per your myco instructions it will lessen the blow considerably. It's expensive, as you will see when you read the mixing instructions, but it will help.

After that, frequent small waterings from above will cater to the hydroponic roots up top and allow air, just be very gentle when you water. Use the res too, don't neglect the bottom roots.If either top or bottom roots dry out too fast they will convert, but yield will suffer a lot.

You will lose density as you are about to start stacking and hardening, and neither will be optimal if the plant is using energy to convert roots.

Lotsa work but manageable.

But check calcium and brix 1st.

Some hydrolysed fish ferts up top, only a litre or so a week, to keep it out of the res, will also help myco regulate water.
I have some @DYNOMYCO . I'll have to give it a read! 9:00 lights come on and I'll see about the fuzziness of the brix line.
 
It's happening to them all now.

That soil is down at least 2 inches from when I planted

So you’re either too wet across the board and one of your plants is faster than the others. Or, this soil was so packed with nutrition, but was unbalanced, and the moment you brought it into balance it lit up like a firework and burned through a lot of it too fast.

Is this a run where you maxed the DLI, or have you adjusted based on your plants reactions?
 
So you’re either too wet across the board and one of your plants is faster than the others.
Still on the table.
Or, this soil was so packed with nutrition, but was unbalanced, and the moment you brought it into balance it lit up like a firework and burned through a lot of it too fast.
It is ultra packed! They haven't fed more than they need in the past though. Same soil just 2 fistfuls of perlite added. History has it that they control their uptake better.
Is this a run where you maxed the DLI, or have you adjusted based on your plants reactions?
This is my first time working with DLI and I've kept it "by the book" as Photone suggests. Photone is on my phone and now I'm unsure how that's working out. I'll probably try another meter in the future.
 
This is my first time working with DLI and I've kept it "by the book" as Photone suggests. Photone is on my phone and now I'm unsure how that's working out. I'll probably try another meter in the future

That’s likely a lot more photosynthesis than your room is typically running.

Soil sinking 2 inches typically happens because A) it’s become waterlogged and heavy or B) has lit up and started sinking from decomposition. I almost always get about 2 inches of settling after the roots have spread out and the soil has fired a bit. By the look and sounds of it, you’re driving the grow a lot harder.

We’ll see what your refractometer says and will have a clearer picture
 
We’ll see what your refractometer says and will have a clearer picture

But check calcium and brix 1st.
It's very fuzzy and an 8. I removed the 3 other plastic covers and barked them and gave them top water @ 1.6 ltrs.

I'd like to figure this out to keep

this one good in the 3 x 3! It'll probably start in 3 weeks. She's perfect today.

 
It's very fuzzy and an 8. I removed the 3 other plastic covers and barked them and gave them top water @ 1.6 ltrs.

I'd like to figure this out to keep

this one good in the 3 x 3! It'll probably start in 3 weeks. She's perfect today.


Calcium is good but 8 is a problem. Do you have a copy of the soil report I can take a look at? All I see is K. Revs mixes have enough K only if you follow them to the letter, have you made substitutions? I don’t want to recommend more though without knowing what’s there.

How many colas and growing tips do these plants have?
 
I didn't look today but by the book of Photone until now

Also, what is by the book? Do you have a copy of what you’re using for reference? The only DLI chart I’ve seen referenced is pretty aggressive stuff for our methods, and I haven’t seen one from Photone. Just wanna see what values you’re running
 
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