Hempy Headquarters

That's kind of what I have been picking up from here and a couple of other sources. 3-4 oz per X 6 to 9 plants would be a very interesting yield indeed. My space is 2x2.5feet and I can see that I could easily fit 9 plants in my waste baskets to start with and remove any males and still end up with a decent yield. I'm thinking having multiple plants to tend while sometimes tedious could be still be an over all fun experience especially when growing different strains and breeds.

My nutrients grow bigger plants than that. Lol! With the humidifier taking up space there's room for three plants, max in my tents, and they're 27"x27" each. Get a big plant and it'll take the whole space

Now, with a different training program you might just pull it off just remember that the plants have girth too.
 
Hi SweetSue! :high-five: :circle-of-love:

Do you do much in the way of training? From your photos, it looks like most of your plants are au natural. :yummy:

I was chatting with @BTzGrow about numbers of plants in a smaller tent. From my recent experience, you run out of room very quickly if you’re doing LST on more than one plant.
:ganjamon:
 
I'm not trying to talk about anyone else's experience - just hempy didn't work out well for me.

This is mostly because I don't want to learn about the subtle difference between calcium deficiencies that require cal-mag and calcium deficiencies due to nutrient lockout after too much cal-mag.

Some of my hempies recovered after correcting the PH, and some of them stayed looking ugly.

Completely understandable. If a thing does not work for you - and especially if you know that a different thing does - then it is a simple decision, indeed.

"Hempy" is just a type of passive hydroponics. Therefore, in theory, it can be somewhat more productive than soil and somewhat less productive than active hydroponics methods.

In theory, lol. In reality, which method of growing works best for any one specific individual depends on several factors. Environmental ones can be significant. Even, when it comes down to it, how well that individual likes a certain method compared to other ones.

I've often thought that a great deal of a plant's health depends on the amount of oxygen available to that plant, via its root system. And I also feel that certain variables can affect this amount. Hempy-style growing seems pretty simple (and it is, basically, but...). One grabs a container, puts a hole in the side, fills it with medium and a plant, and (feeds & ) waters it once in a while.

But where does one place the hole? "It doesn't really matter." Oh, yeah? Then why not drill it in the rim of the container, lol? Or a quarter-inch from the bottom? Too high, and it becomes a DWC hydro setup - but without the active oxygenation. Those don't work all that well. One "drowns the roots."

I think that setting up a "sacrificial" DWC, getting the plant to a healthy, reasonable size... and then unplugging the aeration device(s) might be an educational thing. One can then watch the plant drown (or suffocate? IDK which term would be more appropriate...) due to lack of dissolved oxygen in the reservoir's solution. The plant's health would suffer and, eventually, it would either die or provide a rather poor harvest. I wonder how many people, not knowing the scenario, would take a look at that suffering plant and think, "Nutrient deficiency of some sort (possibly multiple elements)." Or toxicity. Or deficiency/deficiencies caused by an out-of-range pH? If that happened, no amount of tinkering with the nutrient ratios or pH adjustment would help. Trying to feed a starving man - who happens to be drowning at the time - is not the best plan, lol. Give him a meal, sure - he will appreciate the chance to get his belly button a little farther away from his back - but first... give him some air, so to speak.​

[ Above paragraph centered because I could not find the "increase indentation" button in the message editor. Please consider it to be such.]

Too low... And one could almost say it is then becoming an active hydro setup, only with the gardener acting as the pump/dripper system. Lights on, water the plant. Hour later, water the plant. Hour after that, water the plant. Or something like that.

Like most things in the universe, of course, it is not quite so simple as that. Medium choice/mixture plays a part. Add - for example - vermiculite to perlite, and the mixture holds more water. Take some of that vermiculite away (feel free to laugh at the person trying to do this one bit of vermiculite at a time in a functioning hempy - it's just a figure of speech) and the resultant medium holds less water... but more air.

I'm not positive, but I think that dry roots, even surrounded by oxygen, are not the best able to access it. When the grower pours the liquid into the container, he/she is wetting the substrate and the roots - which makes it a different situation. Those dampened roots can better access however much oxygen is available to them (IMHO).

But how much is that? Was that liquid aerated, or has it "gone stale" before being poured in?

Err... I just forgot where I was going with this, lol. It is unfortunate that this method failed to work for you, Radogast, and I hope that you get back to productive harvests - and enjoying the activity - soonest! When it's all said and done, whichever method works best for YOU... is the best method for you.
 
Greetings fellow hempites! :high-five:

Sue has asked me to repost something here that I brought up in @Tead’s journal. He and others have had terrific success using PVC pipe as hempy containers.

However, although PVC pipe is very damn convenient, it isn’t one of the plastics that are safe for growing plants for consumption by humans or animals. There are toxic compounds that can be leached out of the plastic which can end up in the plant (especially if using a lower pH nutrient solution).

When I worked at one of the last true old-fashioned hardware stores in the world(*), we had folks trying to use PVC pipe for water (supply) lines. Had to tell them to use CPVC. It has been so long that I do not remember why. Not hot-water rated, I think? We only carried the smaller sizes of the latter ( ≤¾" ) but a quick web-search showed me that the stuff is available in (inside) diameters up to 24" (and possibly larger).

Unfortunately, I do not know if CPVC would be an appropriate material for our intended purposes or not. A quick search of the article at the BabyGreenThumb website for "CPVC" gave no results. Neither did one for "ABS" (the black plastic pipe that is also commonly used as drain line, and generally sold beside the PVC stuff).

I wonder how well cement (or concrete) would work, lol? Mom once told me that she had watched a television show in which they showed the viewers how (easy and CHEAP it is) to make those planters that are sold at nurseries and department stores for ridiculous amounts of money. I saw one recently for $249.99 - and it probably cost under $10 to make, including the labor :rolleyes: . The hole in the side ought to be easy to add during the creation process. A drinking straw filled with solidified candle wax (for rigidity) when the material is poured, then removed after curing might do it, IDK.

(*)A bit of an exageration - but they are definitely to be considered an endangered species - and preserved whenever possible, IMHO.
 
Greetings

Hello, Thank you for the research, and the sharing of same. This forum could use a "scientific / factual documents that could be useful to the cannabis grower" section.

Wait... does it already have one?
 
Well now, @Tead has replied (in his journal), and being better informed than I, tells us that PVC made since 1977 should have a NSF certification on it indicating that it is safe for drinking water use. :yahoo:

AWESOME! That means that the cannabis growers who "feed" their plants water and nothing else whatsoever can stop worrying, lol. Well, tap water is not distilled water - it contains several things, on average (some of which are often more dangerous to the person than any possible pipe material (unless you count lead (ask the ancient Romans, lol) ) ) . But there is quite a bit of things in complete (cannabis) plant feed that are either not found in drinking water, or are not found in the same concentrations.
 
there is a limit of plants legally allowed here in California.

Plant number rules/laws SUCK, IMHO. They make no sense! Can someone in government (any government, lol) please tell me how the grower with a small (24-plant) SOG is going to harvest more than one of those cats in Australia who only grows one plant at a time - but illuminates it with 10,000 watts of HID lights? (BtW, I have read that they do that... because of increased punishments for higher plant numbers :rolleyes: . )
 
Personally I think a good flush can’t hurt and may help. I’d flush thoroughly every couple weeks and see if that eliminates the problem.

I water from the top until it starts shooting out, then I stop and let it finish draining. Watering every other day keeps things running smoothly enough that I get away with occasionally watering just until I see a trickle.

I use RX Technologies nutrients, and so far they’ve given me no trouble with salt buildup.

Most folks probably "flush" once in a while.

Your mention of not having salt buildup caused me to think. IF there is a buildup of salts, a simple flush probably is going to do nothing. I've used the "expanded clay balls" media off and on for years, especially as the initial part of a large-reservoir DWC (cup with that plus the plant, sitting in the lid of the reservoir). Some of them came out covered in salt buildup at the end of the grow. No amount of plain-water rinsing removed it. Boiling water didn't seem to touch it. Pouring the (hot) vinegar from a drip coffeemaker cleaning cycle into a pot of the little balls and allowing them to soak in it might, IDK.

But, anyway, if one waits to worry about nutrient buildup until there is visible evidence... I doubt a plain-water flush is going to be significant.
 
Wow, this thread has almost gone silent. I hope the Hempy lovers aren't bored with the method and abandoning it for more "challenging" methods? Maybe the simplest method isn't always the most desireable.

A few months ago I helped an older couple setup a 2x4 Hempy tent with Blue Dream, to help them afford medicine for Alzheimer treatments. I got a phone from them last night and they are ready to harvest, but I'm over a 1000 miles away now. I did the seed through veg cycle in my own spaces and transplanted the pots to her new setup for flowering. They forgot I was going to move out of state and Carol was freaking out about how to cut and dry the produce. So I spent a hour on the phone with her while she cut plants, trimmed fans and hung the branches. Just a wet guess, but I estimate they will get about 8oz dry yield. A completely new grower that's in her 80's will get a good yield from 8 sq ft of grow space, months worth of medicine, and she has saved thousands of dollars (actually they couldn't afford the dispensary on SS, so they were just using 1/8th of the recommended dosage). She has been making her own tincture from cured bud, so after this is dry and cured, she'll have her wings.

Just trying to generate some posting traffic, this thread is too good to wither.

Peace
Keith
 
Hey @KeifKeith, I think we are all here, just a couple are pretty busy with RL(real life). I'm just plugging along with a couple of Hempy Cup clone experiments myself and not much to report. Will post a couple of photos in a bit as I think my clones tests are almost ready to cut.
 
Here's the tips of my Experimental Hempy Cup Clones. They are filling in, have lots of Trich's and the overall color is a much darker color than the donor plant. They are also getting a little bit less light because they are on the sidelines of the tent.
 
I’m still a hempy guy: perlite and coco.

Just harvested a Canuk Seeds Amnesia Auto yesterday. Today was processing into oil and tincture. I’m thrilled with this method!



 
I haven't checked in here for so damn long....
Damn TS... writing intelligent words that make me think and respond. You're just prolific. You really need to come sit beside me so I can feed you enough sleepy time smoke to slow your ass down.

C-PVC is chlorinated PVC. It's use was mainly in hot water applications as the addition of chlorine improved PVC's durability at high temps. Plastic as a whole has issues with prolonged heat or UV exposure.
Anyway, C-PVC is frowned upon these days and locally is no longer allowed in homes per building codes. It still has plenty of uses in drainage situations (generally commercial), so you can still get it.
Stay with your standard Schedule40 PVC. Don't use old stuff... you never know what era the stuff came from since it seems to last forever in the ground. Grab some new stuff from the store or poke around a construction project... plenty of scrap pieces. They were diggin up the road installing new mains out in the east recently... I was really tempted to bring home a piece of 4 foot-ish water main scrap.

This girl here was repotted from soil to perlite and back to soil. She'll be fine.

A trifecta!!! Only you Rad.... very nice. Sorry to watch the woes of course, but if you give me a 3-fer as a parting gift, you know I gotta smile.

Tead see's these failures. I once had a hard time understanding how it could be that something The Rev finds so simple and natural isn't simple to replicate remotely. Time has taught The Rev that all humans, all gardens, and all plants have their own 'energy' that may or may not allow for an easy journey down the hempy path. When one looks at the variables scientifically and starts to count... one almost instantly runs out of fingers and toes... this softens the blow to the ego.
 
And I showed that with enough heat and neglect a hempy garden can indeed attract thrips. I was putting the Jamaican back when I realized that couldn’t be foliar residue, because I don’t use foliars.






The Jamaicans come down in a couple days and they’ll be washed, so no worries. The other specimen only had minimal grazing and the Candy Cane in the tent only had one leaf showing infestation.

I’ll scrub the tent when it gets emptied in the next couple weeks. That Candy Cane’s about three weeks out. She may come down the day before I leave.

Environmental control, my last juggernaut.
 
Sorry to hear that Sue! :eek::( :green_heart:

Little bastards!
I used 2 applications of Captain Jack’s Dead Bug, but anything containing spinosad will do them in. Environmentally friendly too.

:yummy:

They're just little earthlings trying to survive, just like us Felipe. Lol! I won't hesitate to flush them away in the budwash tomorrow. I have a technique for harvesting without danger of spreading the infestation I developed when I had mites. I'm thinking of turning most of the plants into FHO, and the rest gets dried in the fridge. The thrips don't stand a chance. :slide:
 
So, two grows in a row, right at the 8 week mark, when my autos are done with their growth and are setting into growing buds, I’ve had a problem with yellowing and browning leaves.

I’m using an organic nute mix, Tappin Roots, which has cal/mag, but I don’t pH my runoff currently. Typically a flush halts the progress of the yellowing and browning, but I’m left with ugly plants for the last four weeks of flower until harvest.

Other than getting a pH pen, I’m thinking of doing some prophylactic flushing. I think half the problem may be a buildup of nutes creating pH problems and lock out, or perhaps it’s an overdose of nitrogen right at that point in the cycle.

Up until this point, the plants are vigorous and healthy looking.

I admit that I have been bad about taking the plants out and doing a overflow flush with nutes when I feed. I water to overflow, but I just let it drain into the bottom of the tent and let evaporate to raise the humidity. Means taking out the tent floor now and again and washing it, but so far it’s mostly been successful.

I’m coming up to the critical period with my Northern Lights Auto and am trying to avoid the problem this time.

Any thoughts?


Damn... I missed this way back whenever.... so sorry... I should have caught this and jumped all over it.

You've bypassed a basic principle of the hempy/passive hydro technique. Flushing with EVERY watering is very important. In a passive system, the water can support various growth when not regularly flushed. You NEED to push out the old water with every watering. You don't want the old water in your pots... it's oxygen has been depleted and you need to replace it.
In active hydro situations, this is handled with airstones or other processes. This is DRAIN TO WASTE PASSIVE HYDRO... the drain to waste part of that IS important.

Now... can you fix your crashing plants? Possibly.... depends how much of the root mass has rotted away. I bet your runoff has some significant aroma to it. You'll need to flush out all that rotting material. If I were you, I'd drag the plant to a sink or an outdoor hose and do some serious (at least until clear water comes out) daily flushing. I can't begin to guess how long this might take, but while the rot continues, the plant cannot thrive.

I had a reveg that fell into this situation. I saved it... but it sure wasn't pretty and took a ton of time with many flushes before the rotting ended.
 
Tead, I think you’re half right, but I don’t think that you’re exactly right in this case.

You are correct in that I’m not exactly flushing with every water. I’m watering to overflow of a certain amount, but since my girls are pretty dry when I feed, there really isn’t any liquid left to flush out. I don’t think it’s root rot. I haven’t had any odor or discoloration, and post harvest, my root balls all looked very healthy.

What I suspect more is a salt build up. Since I allow the pots to get pretty dry, that could mean a concentration of nutes and over-concentration in my media. And since I also don’t overwater as much, it’s the flushing of that concentrate that isn’t happening, which leads to higher concentration each time.

Or it could be something else entirely. Lol
 
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