fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Yes, this is true and a valid point however when too much unused ferts build up you do get a powdery salt like buildup. There are good salts and bad salt in nutrients. The good wont hurt, the bad definitely will
Growing Without Bloom Nutes By Farside05
- Thread starter
- #142
Caught up! Great info here and thanks for all the nute info over in my thread as well.
Are you still pH'ing your nutes? I've stopped completely after that whole conversation with ProMix Guy.
What's the deal with flushing mid-grow? If you water to runoff every time is "clearing the salts from the soil" necessary? I was in another thread where someone posted that salts restricts water uptake and if you use synthetic nutes you need to flush the soil of salts two weeks before harvest due to the increased PPM used in flower. I said that if you water to runoff it isn't necessary and got a load of pushback on that.
I can't imagine ever using up the open bottle of Terp I have, but I only use it after buds are forming. Don't think I would even if I ran it the whole grow!
So if you had watered to runoff then the flush would not have been necessary, yes?
Oh, plants look terrific btw.
Currently not pHing because my mixes both put me around 6.4 anyway which has always been within my desired range.
Yeah, if I would have been feeding "correctly" all the time, to runoff I don't believe there would be a reason to flush.
I like the dynagrow personally. I've currently got a tent of Coco and promix plants getting fed the same solution and they seem to love it so far.
All of the salts we are using in our nutrients are good salts. My question was do we need to flush a buildup out if we water to runoff every time.
My nutes are coming in around 7.1-7.4 but ProMix Guy says it matters not! So I'm leaving it alone and so far so good. I'll slurry test my soil if I see some sort of lock-out though.
I'm going to biuld a QB with the F-Series Gen3 led strips. Hoping 200w will work for my little 6sq ft tent.
- Thread starter
- #146
Which is part of why I am anal on ratios. I see no use to feed something with a lot of what the plants can't or don't need. Unused nutes (ie excessive P from bloom booster) are either gonna build up causing toxic levels or end up being washed down the drain being a total waste of money.
- Thread starter
- #147
You'll love the white light and the difference it makes. My yields and potency both increased dramatically when I switched. I'm 300 watts of strips in 7 sq/ft.
- Thread starter
- #148
There's probably a lot of validity to it. When we owned our greenhouse and grew bedding stock (outside annual flowers) we used a lot of Pro Mix. We never adjusted the pH. It was just tap water and an injector fertilizer system. There's no way we could have pH'd all the water required for 2 acres worth of plants.
Garden looking fire bro!
Those are the ones I did my build with in December, the LT-F562B at 3000K.
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Okay, how about we look at 4 weeks to the day of flower on my very first plant I ever grew? This was under blurple LED and grown in a closet. The journal is here showing these pics at week 4. That should be a more fair comparison.
When plants grow in the wild, for millions of years they have been able to feed themselves what they need, when they need it from the soil. Growing with synthetic nutrients does rob the plant from being able to feed itself. Instead we literally force feed the plants with nutrients made with organic or synthetic acids that chelate our nutrients so the plants have no choice but to uptake them. The plants will do what they can to adapt but when certain nutrients are not in high enough supply the yield will suffer. Wouldn't it be far better to have plenty of NPK and micronutrients available at all times and let the plant decide what it needs and how much?
Not sure if farside wants to host this lighting discussion, but I suggest getting the A series driver with the built-in potentiometer. It can run the lights at a higher wattage than an external pot.
The rest looks like my build.
The rest looks like my build.
I'm still learning. But I think me going the floraflex route and a QB is a huge leap in the right direction.Okay, how about we look at 4 weeks to the day of flower on my very first plant I ever grew? This was under blurple LED and grown in a closet. The journal is here showing these pics at week 4. That should be a more fair comparison.
When plants grow in the wild, for millions of years they have been able to feed themselves what they need, when they need it from the soil. Growing with synthetic nutrients does rob the plant from being able to feed itself. Instead we literally force feed the plants with nutrients made with organic or synthetic acids that chelate our nutrients so the plants have no choice but to uptake them. The plants will do what they can to adapt but when certain nutrients are not in high enough supply the yield will suffer. Wouldn't it be far better to have plenty of NPK and micronutrients available at all times and let the plant decide what it needs and how much?
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Yes sir! We are all still learning. Don't get my post wrong, I was not trying to say there was something wrong with your plant or degrading your grow in any way.
I want to mount the drivers in a spot that I'll need the potentiometer not built in. But that could change. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.
Here is the link to my build if you're interested DV! Feel free to ask any questions over in my thread.
I'm not taking it wrong. Every crop I have done has gotten better. And it's because of you guys
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Highly doubt that. Unless you are using 100% Omri rated organic nutrients then the salts you are using are not all good. Even nutrients that say organic based have bad salts in them. Even all of the botnicare products chelate with salts that are bad when built up. Even a lot of the organic nutrients can contain salts that have build up our bad like humic acid, folic acid, phosphoric acid, ascorbic acid etc. And those don't even count the synthetic salts that nutrients are chelated with. All of those if they add up can and will kill microlife. In many of the cases some of those are not bad but once they build up they do become damaging.
I would definitely still do a full flush. When you water to 10 to 15% runoff you are helping to keep the salt concentrations down but when you flush for a week and a half to two weeks before Harvest you will be able to mostly eliminate everything that is left.