Should be fine I was given a 6incv fan as posted above but needs rewiring and don't think can use it in its own
Why sad faceIm presuming u don't need filter... what u got on atm ..Is the exhaust fan this??
). Later, whilst cleaning the space, I discovered some seeds laying on the floor, lol. And people who keep mother plants for years occasionally find that one or another of them - while still under a short dark period lighting schedule - has begun producing flowers a bit more/quicker than that gardener is comfortable with, so they'll go ahead and flower the plant.
) against the glass, it's barely worth noticing. 
) African Equatorial sativa, my Dr. Greenspoon, my Maple Leaf Indica, and... IDK, some ****ing autoflower or other, lol. . And "just because." But there's no real need, I suppose. Buy a halfway decent fan and run it the entire time the light is on, and it's not going to melt, lol. Still, yeah, I'd have it separate, if possible/feasible. May or may not be, depends on the overall setup.
) found the phone, the rear cover, and the battery. The phone was a little bit skinned up, and the display had some scratches. I used some automotive rubbing compound and then glaze to make it like new. Toothpaste might have worked, IDK, they weren't too bad. Plastic scratches easier, sure - but it breaks far less often.
Love the indephness of your reply and thank you will take it on board basically get filter n fan asap and thanks for details about lighting etc am I right to feed them boost and pk1314 ?WARNING: Somewhat lengthy, combined message follows. You have been warned...
Two different things. When the vigorous "upward" growth virtually stops, that's how you know the stretch has stopped. It's a relatively abrupt transition, lol; you'll probably notice. A mature cannabis plant... one that has been in the growth phase for a while, say, maybe a bit longer than a lot of people keep their lighting schedule on 18/6, can begin producing flowers quite soon after the gardener switches to 12/12. Technically, "preflowers" are... just flowers, so the plant really can and (often) does begin producing them before the lighting schedule change. I once kept two plants - a Sensi Seeds Jack Herer and a Serious Seeds Kali Mist - in the growth phase for months (don't ask). Filled the space, lol (for a lot of reasons I don't really wish to discuss, among them... "stupid"
Multiple lower-powered light sources can work as well as, or even better than, one more powerful one. You tend to have less shadowed areas. And it allows you to adjust for having plants with slightly different lighting needs in the same space. However, it can be difficult to figure out an optimum placement, especially without any kind of light meter. It can be difficult enough matching one light to the size/shape of one's garden footprint. Every time light hits a surface, some of it is reflected away - and some of it is absorbed, and serves only to heat that surface.
You have a rectangular space of a certain size. You want to arrive at a state in which as much light as possible hits the plants, without (unwanted) overlap, and with as little as possible needing to bounce/reflect off of the walls. Buying multiple light sources to do this... it can end up being somewhat comparable to a person trying to fill in holes in a jigsaw puzzle by grabbing random pieces from random boxes of jigsaw puzzles.
On the other hand, if a gardener only has one light, and that light stops working (completely, or as is sometimes the case with LED panels, partially - and it must be sent back for repair), then the garden has no light.
It... kind of does. All LED grow lights are (very, very much) not created equal. General quality, power supply efficiency (IOW, how many watts get "eaten" by it - converted to heat - instead of getting to power the individual LEDs), number of LEDs, how powerfully they are being run... And they do not produce a continuous spectrum; the manufacturer basically adds "chunks of spectrum" by choosing which colors/frequencies of LEDs to include in the product. All of that, and more, means that a person cannot simply look at the (actual) wattage of an LED product and equate that with n HID watts. Or say that the thing will be adequate for a certain area of garden space.
Used to be the same with HIDs, but that was more having to do with reflector efficiency, quality, shape... There were threads in which people tested them (same bulb and ballast) to determine where they ranked among other ones. Oh, and the glass that those air-cooled reflectors come with? They typically attenuate the light output by approximately 9% (if I recall correctly). That's the negative of running one with the glass installed. The positive, of course, is that it helps confine the heat the bulb produces, and allows the gardener to more easily remove that heat before it ever enters the general garden space. Instead of having to have the fixture (relatively) high to protect the plant from radiant(?) heat damage, the gardener can place it as close to the plants as needed for optimum lighting. And, of course, if you accidentally bump your hand (or ear
In absolute terms, the heat produced is a lot closer than most people realize. Yes, efficiency plays a part. That's probably the only real difference, though. As I mentioned above, when light hits a surface (this includes your plants' surfaces), some percentage gets converted to heat. In an indoor garden, we try to confine as close to 100% of the light inside the garden space as possible. Therefore, if both an HID and an LED light source are producing the same amount of light... they should eventually warm identical spaces by the same... er... degree.
Whichever type of lighting you end up with, of whatever quality, you should try to plan things so that the power supply is outside of the actual garden space, if heat is a concern. If the garden space is inside a relatively confining larger space - a grow tent inside a bedroom, for example - then merely placing the power supply in the larger space is not optimal, because the exhaust fan might be drawing air from that larger space, meaning that the power supply is still contributing some heat. But it's better than nothing. Oft times, a lot better. And it might be easier to control the temperature in that larger space; a window air conditioner unit in a bedroom window makes more sense than one sticking through a tent wall, lol, for several reasons. Not least being that, the smaller the volume being cooled, the more often the cooling device will end up cycling on/off.
I could respond with some ridiculously complicated statement about my (purely hypothetical
But I notice that you used the term "roughly."
Perhaps it's best to - not ignore, certainly, but... - not place total emphasis on the (actual, always actual, of course) wattage. Instead, look for the product's PAR output / footprint charts/maps. Even crappy products sold by sketchy Chinese sellers that tend to disappear one morning and reappear in the guise of a completely different seller the same afternoon are now publishing the things. And you can always try asking the seller for them, if they are not obviously displayed in the ad. You just have to hope they're honest. If they are, though, it will show you the measured output in a certain sized space, at many points within that space. It should also list at what distance those measurements were taken. A lot of sellers and/or manufacturers will publish multiple maps, which allows you to see the product's performance at more than one height/distance. 12", 18", and 24" are popular. You might discover that the product you were thinking about purchasing has a relatively powerful output - but that it's only powerful in a small area directly underneath the thing, and that it quickly drops off as you move off to the side... and that raising the light panel up to help it cover a larger area helps, but not that much (or not enough).
You can also search on YouTube for videos about either a specific grow light product, to see if anyone has set one up and measured its output for you, or look for one of the people who do this sort of thing on a regular basis. For example, search on YouTube for a channel called "Migro." The guy is named Shane, and he has probably tested hundreds (or at least 100) grow light products by now. As far as I am aware, he is 100% honest. What he does, for the most part: Create a space that's the size suggested by the manufacturer/seller (in a way, he's also testing them). Then he'll hang the light, grab his PAR light meter, stick it in the center of the space - and adjust the product's distance from the sensor (floor level, but that would generally equate to the top of your plant canopy) until he sees a certain reading on the meter. I think it's 1,000 PPFD, but I might be mistaken (coffee! must have COFFEE!!!). Then, he takes readings across that space, every six inches - and shows you the results. Viewing his videos is probably about as close as you'll come to real-world testing without actually buying 117 (whatever) LED grow lights and growing a crop under each, heh. He occasionally posts more general videos (best 2019 light for a small grow room, or whatever).
It's one "downfall." Yes, you're obviously losing a not insignificant amount of light, by allowing it to illuminate the space the garden is in instead of the actual garden. But you're also allowing various contaminants free entry. If you smoke - joints, pipes, bongs, cigarettes, cigars, it makes no difference - then that smoke eventually condenses(?) onto all the surfaces within a space. That's annoying when it gets onto the clothing hanging up, and you've got to dress for a job interview (or date). But it's really bad for plants. Their leaves are green due to the chloroplasts(/chlorophyll), and those are exactly comparable to solar cells you might see on someone's roof. Put dirt/etc. on top of either, and they're simply not going to have access to 100% of the light-energy that would otherwise reach them. There are also tiny pores on the undersides of the leaves, which are used for gas exchange. And for expelling moisture. Both very important functions.
And then there are: Cats, dogs, mice (hopefully, you don't have to worry about those), assholes who notice the light and/or noise and want to go look at your plants, all the dust/etc. that floats around in the air inside someone's home, red spider mites, russet mites, et cetera. None of which belong in your garden.
YES! Well, I don't know about most, but the really intelligent ones do, ha ha.
If you want to run an HID (such as a 600-watt HPS), that's fine. People have been growing nice buds with them for decades. There are reasons for and against switching to LED, and I'll not get into that here. This is not a recommendation (either way). Again, it's an "if you..."
If you do, get a good quality air-cooled reflector. Preferably one that's relatively well sealed (other than the entry/exit vent paths, obviously). But the main thing is to get one that has a decent reflector piece inside that will actually reflect as much of the light as possible, without creating a "hot spot" somewhere in your garden, and one which helps your light output a footprint that as closely matches your garden's footprint as possible. You can always take steps to seal up air leaks (and should always look for them when selecting/using a new fixture), but you cannot improve the thing's lighting quality.
Best practice is, as 'Shed mentioned, to run two separate fan/exhaust setups. One for the HID light fixture, and one for the general garden space. Assuming no air leaks between the two, you absolutely do not need a carbon filter on the light's run. Heated air smells like... air. With no filter, there is much less restriction - this makes the fan's job easier. That means you can use a less powerful fan. Or, alternately, use a powerful fan - and extend your intake/exhaust vent runs in such a way that you are pulling air from a completely different space, moving it through your HID fixture - and returning it to that distant space (or another one, depending on your circumstances). Which would mean that you're not heating the space that you're going to be using to get air for your garden from. Also, this fan need only run during the lights-on time. So you can use one timer (of adequate capacity) for both items.
Second exhaust fan, for the garden: Okay, it's like this. Three reasons to even have an exhaust fan, and they are heat removal, odor control, and to provide fresh air (gasses) for your plants whilst taking away expelled gas and excess moisture. Of those, the biggest "user" is heat removal. If you've done the above with your big light, you've immediately taken a huge chunk of heat production out of the mix. Now, you can use a lower-capacity exhaust fan for the garden, because the vast majority of your 600-watt HPS' 2,046 BTUs of heat output... is gone. That's one benefit. Another is that running hot air through your carbon filter can shorten its useful life (I don't recall why, exactly, offhand). It'll last longer. It'll also work more efficiently if/when you're moving air through the thing at a slower rate. I guess you could say it's sort of like trying to get warm by running past a campfire, versus walking by one slowly, lol, IDK. You'll be moving less heat with this one, so you might not have to be quite so particular about where that heat ends up. That's situational, depends on you and your home/etc., but this can be a significant thing, depending. Put this one on its own timer. If your plants aren't so odoriferous that they're stinking up your house (neighborhood?) even with the tent shut and your garden exhaust shut off, then you can get by with running it for a few minutes, several times per night. Some folks don't even bother with that, but I wouldn't want to have "dew" all over my indoor garden each "morning," or worry overmuch about mold and such.
In a perfect world, you could get someone who neither consumes nor grows cannabis to visit and tell you what they perceive, both outside and in. (In a perfect world, I guess you wouldn't need to.) Those people will notice much quicker. Just like, if you work in a stinky environment, you sort of get "nose-blind" but the people around you... still notice the smell that surrounds you when you're on your way home afterwards.
Neighbors, mailman, meter readers, cops, that thieving ******* that happens to pass through the neighborhood, the new lady(etc.) in your life that you don't necessarily want to lead off with "I GROW CANNABIS IN MY HOME!!!," the people you interact with in your life who you would rather didn't smell it on your wardrobe...
I'd want a short section of duct material. That way, you can raise/lower your light independently (exhaust fan/filter setup can remain parked in one spot throughout the grow). Might be convenient to move them to directly outside of the tent - but you'll always want your light inside
Yes new phones terrible I agree and I'm 30Oh, sorry, my apologies; it actually had nothing to do with the cannabis aspect of your message, and I... guess I just wasn't thinking. Broken cell phone glass SUCKS. Been there, done that - and that particular phone was in an Otterbox Commuter case. Landed facedown in a gravel parking lot, and was the victim of a pointy rock. I miss plastic cell phone display surfaces. Had one of those - it was just a feature phone, or whatever they called them pre-Android OS - sitting on the dashboard of a pickup truck, with the windows rolled down, going +/- 55 miles per hour. Went around a left-hand curve, and saw that SOB slide off the dash and out the passenger (right (USA)) window, LMFAO. We turned around, parked on the other side of the road, and I (eventually
Anyway, rambling, just meant: Was about your unfortunate cell phone, sorry.
Hey guys can u help me in what direction the arrow should be on the filter x
