Grandpa's Second Try - Come Join Us!

Back to doing some research for you Grandpa,

When Cultivator came and offered his help, he left a link (you couldn't access it), so to honour his offer, here is his proposed Coco feed schedule he recommends. Could you give us YOUR perspective aka opinion as to whether or not you could follow this feed schedule or not?

Please noone else chime in, we need Grandpa to learn and see if this would have been a way to go. Then you will know how many different ways people are offering their methods, but does it truly match your lifestyle. Great information too.

"Hey everyone.

Ive been growing for a long time now and mostly coco. Ive grown literally thousands and thousands of plants so here i will dedicaye a thread to growing in coco.

Please ask questions, i will always answer. No question is stupid, if you dont know then you dont know.

I will start by adding this feeding schedule. There are variations and more ways to do it but this will 100% give quality results.


Here is the Coco schedule. Remember its a guide, no substitute for knowing plants needs.


Ive had a lot of questions on nutrients recently so im going to list a full nute schedule that i use for Coco and Hydro growing. Im not going to list a soil feed schedule because there are variables that could affect what nutrients are used. Also 99% of my growing is hydroponic and I include coco in that so I will advise on what I do to get top results.

Before I make the list be aware that nutrients are way less important than light source and environment. I know alot of people grow on a tight budget but dont skip on a good light source. The video I posted yesterday explains about minimum requirements for growing and why. You want minimum 400w actual draw for a 4x4 square foot area (1x1m), yes you can grow with less but i'm not interested in growing weed with a torch or a 200w draw LED that claims to be a 600w equivalent. If you are growing even one plant make it the best it can be, its a long process to grow. Dont settle for an oz or 2 every 3 months as its wasted time and money when you can x6 that minimum just by using the correct source. A 400w hps would be the minimum requirement for me and my feed schedule represents a grow using adequate light. It stands to reason that a plant with less light will need less nutrient, just like a standard car will need less fuel than a Bugatti Veron.

So with all that said here are the schedules. You can omit anything you like additive wise but base nutrient is the most important. These are recipes that work for me and will vary depending on the quality of the water but anyone using water that is no higher than 0.7ec (350ppm) or using RO water should work. Of course try to never use tap water higher than 0.4ec (200ppm) if it can be helped.

The schedules will be based on 9 week strains, if running 8 week strains just finish nutes a week earlier. I never grow strains longer than 9 weeks now but a 10 week strain you would add 1 more week of the final boost. Strains over that will be different mix and I wont touch on that today.

I have got to these recipes over 15 years or so growing. Im not saying this is the only way but you will not fail if you follow these recipes and have adequate light source and environment.

My schedules will go off using RO water so a starting water of 0 EC (0 PPM) This will make it easier, you can omit calmag if water is of good quality and 0.3ec+ usually but its worth having incase it needs to be dded. If using water of 0.3 ec (150ppm) for example you would add that value to the value of feed i suggest. So if I suggest 1.0 ec of nutes you would add 0.3ec on to that making 1.3ec. Also the values will add up so for example if its 0.3 calmag and i add base nutrient then add it on to the 0.3ec. so if i say base up to 1.0ec that includes the 0.3 of calmag, in other words 0.7ec of base nutrient.

Finally a good EC/PPM meter is really important as is a good PH Pen, they will help you know exactly what is going into the nutrient mix and will be a valuable tool for diagnosing any possible problems. Never go off what the bottle recommends especially for anything that effects EC/PPMs.

RECIPE FOR COCO COIR.....

SEEDLINGS....

Jiffy pellets/root riot cubes/rockwool

Calmag (optional, use if water is RO) 0.1ec (50ppm)
SuperVit 1 drop/4litres water
H+G Roots Excellurator Gold 0.3ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1 scoop/4 litres
PH 5.5-5.8

Soak the cubes or pellets in the solution and wring out so damp and not wet, add the seedling. this mix will get the rooting started quickly and produce strong hairy roots. I transplant into a 1-3 litre pot as soon as the tap root comes out the bottom of the cube.


FIRST TRANSPLANT

Great White mycorrhizae sprinkled in the hole where cube will be placed or onto the cube itself.
CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect Micro Grow Bloom 1.0ec (500ppm) This is approximately 2ml/litre.
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
SuperVit 1drop/4liitres
Advanced Nutrients VooDoo Juice 2ml/litre (once per week)

PH 5.8

SECOND TRANSPLANT.....

Great White Mycorrhizae sprinkled in hole for transplant or direct onto rootzone
CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Advanced Nutrient PH Perfect Micro Grow Bloom 1.2-1.4ec (600-700ppm)
SuperVit 1drop/4litres
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice 2ml/litre (once per week)

FLOWER PERIOD (START OF 12/12)

WEEK 1

Calmag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.4ec (700ppm)
Buddhas Tree Flower Burst 0.25ml/litre
Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice 2ml/litre
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1scoop/10 litres
Advanced Nutrients sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH5.8-6.0

WEEK 2

Calmag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.4ec (700ppm)
Buddhas Tree Flower Burst 0.25ml/litre
Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice 2ml/litre
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1scoop/10 litres
Advanced Nutrients Sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 3

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.5-1.6ec (750-800ppm)
Buddhas Tree Flower Burst 0.25ml/litre
Sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 4 and WEEK 5

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.6ec (800ppm)
Buddhas Tree PK 0.25ml/litre
Buddhas Tree Advanced Metaboost 1ml/litre
Sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 6

CalMag 0.3ml/litre (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.6ec (800ppm)
Buddhas Tree Pk 0.5ml/litre
Buddhas Tree Advanced Metaboost 1-2ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1 scoop/10litres

PH5.8-6.0

WEEK 7

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.6ec (800ppm)
Plagron Green Sensation 1.8ec (900ppm) (can use Buddhas tree PK and metaboost as in week 6)

PH5.8-6.0

WEEK 8

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.8ec (900ppm)
Plagron Green Sensation 2.0ec (1000ppm) (can use Buddhas tree PK and metaboost as in week 6)

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 9

First water to 50% run off.
Allow to dry until pots light to lift.
Water only daily. Enough so that its ready for more 24 hours later. DO NOT KEEP DRENCHED. Biggest chance of bud rot is now.
Flushing will clean excess salts and increase both yield and quality as it forces plants to finish.
Only water until harvest, minimum 7 days water.




Hydro is exactly the same as above with 3 changes.

1st replace Ionic Coco Bloom with Ionic Hydro Bloom

2nd Base nutrient EC/PPM at each feed can be pushed an extra 0.2ec/100ppm if required

3rd PH should be between 5.5-6.0 throughout.


In Recirculating Hydro PH swings are normal, allow some fluctuation as its better for plants to have a good range to uptake nutes. Set it at the lower end and allow it to increase. If it goes over 6.0 readjust to 5.8.



The recipe above is just one recipe that works well. Once you understand the plants needs at each period of growth you can adjust the feeds as going week by week isnt the most accurate way to do it but 100% this baseline recipe will give great results.

Here is the answer to your schedule you asked...;)

Finally in Coco and Hydro plants must be fed daily at least once per day. Do not keep media saturated ever. For Coco give enough liquid so plants are ready to be fed again 24 hours later when hand feeding. So plants should be light to lift but not completely dried out to the point of leaves wilting. Never allow it to dry out completely as the salts in the Media will burn the roots.


I hope this helps and if anyone wants alternatives to any products just ask.

Peace.

---------------------------

Thanks Grandpa! - What do you think from a growers perspective?
 
I'll pitch in for some Nuclear juice for grandpa, it's like the ph perfect but all in one. PW uses it with great success.
 
I hope you had a good Christmas Grandpa. I think you asked about hempy buckets, they are really quite simple. Take any sized bucket, drill a good sized hole, a 3/8 or 1/2 bit should be fine, about 2-3 inches from the bottom of the bucket. Then you fill the bucket with an inert medium and your ready to go. Personally, I use 5 gallon buckets, the type you can get at any home improvement store and have been layering my mediums, all perlite in the reservoir then a 50/50 mix of coco and perlite the rest of the way. I germinate my seedlings for about a week in a solo cup then transplant directly to the final bucket.

Ideally you want to water/feed you plants daily however, I have only watered twice in the past 5 days because of Christmas and my plants are no worse for the ware. That is the beauty of the hempy bucket, the reservoir gives you quite a bit of leeway when it comes to how often you have to feed and the amount of water coco coir holds gives you even more. If you can water daily that is ideal but I would say feeding 3 times a week for the first 2 months would be more than enough but once they are in the home stretch they will probably require daily watering.

I am going to go to the hempy bucket thread to see if I can recruit others to perhaps explain it better.
 
WOW why havent I heard of this before? I just did a search and found a grow journal on another community. Do you know of one here? That would definitely be one of the most simple ways to grow.
 
Grow2HealMe said:
Back to doing some research for you Grandpa,

When Cultivator came and offered his help, he left a link (you couldn't access it), so to honour his offer, here is his proposed Coco feed schedule he recommends. Could you give us YOUR perspective aka opinion as to whether or not you could follow this feed schedule or not?

Please noone else chime in, we need Grandpa to learn and see if this would have been a way to go. Then you will know how many different ways people are offering their methods, but does it truly match your lifestyle. Great information too.

"Hey everyone.

Ive been growing for a long time now and mostly coco. Ive grown literally thousands and thousands of plants so here i will dedicaye a thread to growing in coco.

Please ask questions, i will always answer. No question is stupid, if you dont know then you dont know.

I will start by adding this feeding schedule. There are variations and more ways to do it but this will 100% give quality results.


Here is the Coco schedule. Remember its a guide, no substitute for knowing plants needs.


Ive had a lot of questions on nutrients recently so im going to list a full nute schedule that i use for Coco and Hydro growing. Im not going to list a soil feed schedule because there are variables that could affect what nutrients are used. Also 99% of my growing is hydroponic and I include coco in that so I will advise on what I do to get top results.

Before I make the list be aware that nutrients are way less important than light source and environment. I know alot of people grow on a tight budget but dont skip on a good light source. The video I posted yesterday explains about minimum requirements for growing and why. You want minimum 400w actual draw for a 4x4 square foot area (1x1m), yes you can grow with less but i'm not interested in growing weed with a torch or a 200w draw LED that claims to be a 600w equivalent. If you are growing even one plant make it the best it can be, its a long process to grow. Dont settle for an oz or 2 every 3 months as its wasted time and money when you can x6 that minimum just by using the correct source. A 400w hps would be the minimum requirement for me and my feed schedule represents a grow using adequate light. It stands to reason that a plant with less light will need less nutrient, just like a standard car will need less fuel than a Bugatti Veron.

So with all that said here are the schedules. You can omit anything you like additive wise but base nutrient is the most important. These are recipes that work for me and will vary depending on the quality of the water but anyone using water that is no higher than 0.7ec (350ppm) or using RO water should work. Of course try to never use tap water higher than 0.4ec (200ppm) if it can be helped.

The schedules will be based on 9 week strains, if running 8 week strains just finish nutes a week earlier. I never grow strains longer than 9 weeks now but a 10 week strain you would add 1 more week of the final boost. Strains over that will be different mix and I wont touch on that today.

I have got to these recipes over 15 years or so growing. Im not saying this is the only way but you will not fail if you follow these recipes and have adequate light source and environment.

My schedules will go off using RO water so a starting water of 0 EC (0 PPM) This will make it easier, you can omit calmag if water is of good quality and 0.3ec+ usually but its worth having incase it needs to be dded. If using water of 0.3 ec (150ppm) for example you would add that value to the value of feed i suggest. So if I suggest 1.0 ec of nutes you would add 0.3ec on to that making 1.3ec. Also the values will add up so for example if its 0.3 calmag and i add base nutrient then add it on to the 0.3ec. so if i say base up to 1.0ec that includes the 0.3 of calmag, in other words 0.7ec of base nutrient.

Finally a good EC/PPM meter is really important as is a good PH Pen, they will help you know exactly what is going into the nutrient mix and will be a valuable tool for diagnosing any possible problems. Never go off what the bottle recommends especially for anything that effects EC/PPMs.

RECIPE FOR COCO COIR.....

SEEDLINGS....

Jiffy pellets/root riot cubes/rockwool

Calmag (optional, use if water is RO) 0.1ec (50ppm)
SuperVit 1 drop/4litres water
H+G Roots Excellurator Gold 0.3ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1 scoop/4 litres
PH 5.5-5.8

Soak the cubes or pellets in the solution and wring out so damp and not wet, add the seedling. this mix will get the rooting started quickly and produce strong hairy roots. I transplant into a 1-3 litre pot as soon as the tap root comes out the bottom of the cube.


FIRST TRANSPLANT

Great White mycorrhizae sprinkled in the hole where cube will be placed or onto the cube itself.
CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect Micro Grow Bloom 1.0ec (500ppm) This is approximately 2ml/litre.
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
SuperVit 1drop/4liitres
Advanced Nutrients VooDoo Juice 2ml/litre (once per week)

PH 5.8

SECOND TRANSPLANT.....

Great White Mycorrhizae sprinkled in hole for transplant or direct onto rootzone
CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Advanced Nutrient PH Perfect Micro Grow Bloom 1.2-1.4ec (600-700ppm)
SuperVit 1drop/4litres
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice 2ml/litre (once per week)

FLOWER PERIOD (START OF 12/12)

WEEK 1

Calmag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.4ec (700ppm)
Buddhas Tree Flower Burst 0.25ml/litre
Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice 2ml/litre
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1scoop/10 litres
Advanced Nutrients sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH5.8-6.0

WEEK 2

Calmag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.4ec (700ppm)
Buddhas Tree Flower Burst 0.25ml/litre
Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice 2ml/litre
Roots Excellurator 0.3ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1scoop/10 litres
Advanced Nutrients Sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 3

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.5-1.6ec (750-800ppm)
Buddhas Tree Flower Burst 0.25ml/litre
Sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 4 and WEEK 5

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.6ec (800ppm)
Buddhas Tree PK 0.25ml/litre
Buddhas Tree Advanced Metaboost 1ml/litre
Sensizym 2ml/litre or Cannazym 2.5ml/litre

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 6

CalMag 0.3ml/litre (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.6ec (800ppm)
Buddhas Tree Pk 0.5ml/litre
Buddhas Tree Advanced Metaboost 1-2ml/litre
Great White mycorrhizae 1 scoop/10litres

PH5.8-6.0

WEEK 7

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.6ec (800ppm)
Plagron Green Sensation 1.8ec (900ppm) (can use Buddhas tree PK and metaboost as in week 6)

PH5.8-6.0

WEEK 8

CalMag 0.3ec (150ppm)
Ionic Coco Bloom 1.8ec (900ppm)
Plagron Green Sensation 2.0ec (1000ppm) (can use Buddhas tree PK and metaboost as in week 6)

PH 5.8-6.0

WEEK 9

First water to 50% run off.
Allow to dry until pots light to lift.
Water only daily. Enough so that its ready for more 24 hours later. DO NOT KEEP DRENCHED. Biggest chance of bud rot is now.
Flushing will clean excess salts and increase both yield and quality as it forces plants to finish.
Only water until harvest, minimum 7 days water.




Hydro is exactly the same as above with 3 changes.

1st replace Ionic Coco Bloom with Ionic Hydro Bloom

2nd Base nutrient EC/PPM at each feed can be pushed an extra 0.2ec/100ppm if required

3rd PH should be between 5.5-6.0 throughout.


In Recirculating Hydro PH swings are normal, allow some fluctuation as its better for plants to have a good range to uptake nutes. Set it at the lower end and allow it to increase. If it goes over 6.0 readjust to 5.8.



The recipe above is just one recipe that works well. Once you understand the plants needs at each period of growth you can adjust the feeds as going week by week isnt the most accurate way to do it but 100% this baseline recipe will give great results.

Here is the answer to your schedule you asked...;)

Finally in Coco and Hydro plants must be fed daily at least once per day. Do not keep media saturated ever. For Coco give enough liquid so plants are ready to be fed again 24 hours later when hand feeding. So plants should be light to lift but not completely dried out to the point of leaves wilting. Never allow it to dry out completely as the salts in the Media will burn the roots.


I hope this helps and if anyone wants alternatives to any products just ask.

Peace.

---------------------------

Thanks Grandpa! - What do you think from a growers perspective?
Click to expand...
Thank you very much, Lady G! In reading it, there is really good info there. It seems that he is referring to straight Coco, and not the Coco Loco. I wonder if I should call Fox Farms and see how they recommend the watering and feeding schedule when mixed with the ocean forest soil. All of those different nutrients that he lifts are confusing to me. I'm wondering if I can just do it using my Earth Juice nutrients. I'll find out what Fox Farms says, and post the results. Couldn't hurt to help other people to convert all of that into something they may understand. Thanks again, sis! 😁
 
hortishorti said:
I'll pitch in for some Nuclear juice for grandpa, it's like the ph perfect but all in one. PW uses it with great success.
Click to expand...
Thank you kindly for that wonderful offer, HS! I've never heard of that product, but I know how successful you have been. And, frankly... If it's good enough for PW, it's good enough for us. :thumb:
 
dom2mac said:
I hope you had a good Christmas Grandpa. I think you asked about hempy buckets, they are really quite simple. Take any sized bucket, drill a good sized hole, a 3/8 or 1/2 bit should be fine, about 2-3 inches from the bottom of the bucket. Then you fill the bucket with an inert medium and your ready to go. Personally, I use 5 gallon buckets, the type you can get at any home improvement store and have been layering my mediums, all perlite in the reservoir then a 50/50 mix of coco and perlite the rest of the way. I germinate my seedlings for about a week in a solo cup then transplant directly to the final bucket.

Ideally you want to water/feed you plants daily however, I have only watered twice in the past 5 days because of Christmas and my plants are no worse for the ware. That is the beauty of the hempy bucket, the reservoir gives you quite a bit of leeway when it comes to how often you have to feed and the amount of water coco coir holds gives you even more. If you can water daily that is ideal but I would say feeding 3 times a week for the first 2 months would be more than enough but once they are in the home stretch they will probably require daily watering.

I am going to go to the hempy bucket thread to see if I can recruit others to perhaps explain it better.
Click to expand...
Our wishes for a merry Christmas as well, Dom. That sounds very interesting, indeed. I can't picture how any Reservoir could be made, except maybe in the drainage tray under the bucket. I just don't quite understand how it Wick's the water from however the reservoir is made. I'm thinking that lady G's suggestion of just using one gallon pots for the first time trying this medium is a valid one, and I will follow it. Once I get this one grow under my belt, then we'll think about larger pots. Thank you for taking the time to explain it. :high-five:
 
just talked to a Fox Farms soil advisor. His recommendations are as follows... From seed to flip, using one transplant use CL alone when we flip, transplant to the final pot, but useingd Fox Farms. He says that in this way, nutrients would only be needed toward the last part of flower. Is this what you are referring to, PW? It kind of makes sense to my mind, as you are giving the plant fresh soil to gain its nutrients during the entire grow Cycles. I was also informed that watering won't be needed for up to two to three days. I may be thinking 100% wrong, but if it works, who am I to argue? What do you guys think of this plan?
 
Eyes4grandpa said:
Our wishes for a merry Christmas as well, Dom. That sounds very interesting, indeed. I can't picture how any Reservoir could be made, except maybe in the drainage tray under the bucket. I just don't quite understand how it Wick's the water from however the reservoir is made. I'm thinking that lady G's suggestion of just using one gallon pots for the first time trying this medium is a valid one, and I will follow it. Once I get this one grow under my belt, then we'll think about larger pots. Thank you for taking the time to explain it. :high-five:
Click to expand...

The reservoir is the space between the bottom of the bucket and the hole you drill, there are no other drainage holes in the bottom of the bucket as with a normal potted plant. The plants roots grow down into the reservoir and swim in the nutrient solution. A 1 gallon bucket is an excellent suggestion for a first try, I have seen people use much smaller buckets for their hempy bucket grows. I only use 5 gallon buckets because I have been renovating my house over the past few summers and had a bunch of joint compound buckets laying around.
 
dom2mac said:
The reservoir is the space between the bottom of the bucket and the hole you drill, there are no other drainage holes in the bottom of the bucket as with a normal potted plant. The plants roots grow down into the reservoir and swim in the nutrient solution. A 1 gallon bucket is an excellent suggestion for a first try, I have seen people use much smaller buckets for their hempy bucket grows. I only use 5 gallon buckets because I have been renovating my house over the past few summers and had a bunch of joint compound buckets laying around.
Click to expand...
I must have missed something. What holds the soil from going into the water? And how does the water get to the reservoir at the bottom? I'm sorry for asking for these kind of stupid details, but I need to be able to picture things in my mind.
 
You pour the water into the top of your medium just as you would water any plant and it collects in the reservoir. The reservoir contains the medium only it doesnt drain so a good amount of feed and water is left down there for the roots to drink from, imagine filling a cup with rocks then pouring water into it, you still have water in the cup just not as much as if the cup were empty. The reservoir isnt so deep that the water is allowed to stagnate and lose oxygen and the mediums that are typically used hold a lot of oxygen to begin with.
 
dom2mac said:
Ohh and osomocote is a type slow release nutrient.
Click to expand...
So the reservoir basically is the medium, with water at the bottom of it that stays there, but is replaced by fresh water that goes in. The roots rather swim in this excess water and get the nutrients that way. I hope my overview is correct. This slow-release nutrient sounds interesting.
 
Eyes4grandpa said:
Huh?!? Speekie english, please... .
Osmocoat?
Click to expand...

Osmacote + is a granular nutrient it has a coating that allows it to release its nutes when wet but as it dries it stops releasing nutes. It's very hard to burn plants with it. If you use a hempy bucket with a hole drilled 3-4 inches from the bottom and use perlite with Osmacote + you will always have a reservoir at the bottom of the bucket with plenty of air and oxygen above. Nutrients are only released when you water the perlite.
 
In honour of all the people who have contributed to Grandpa's 2nd Try Journal,
here is a "Grandpa's Hall of Fame" list.

(In order of appearance)

Happy Grew Year Hall of Famers!


Pennywise
BoomShakalaka
OlderGrower
Knighthalktfc
UrbanAchiever
Old TimingMan
Imtoasted
BraicaBrick
Apbeast87
Baker1053
Bunkbudz
Juny360
ShMaNgLeD
Blazin Waffle
Derbybud
Dank Purple
BudBoy2
BirdNerd
NaturalSpiri
Kingjoe83
hortishorti
GrowchyzGardenOfGreen
Grow2HealMe
TheBlaze
Van Stank
TheMadDabber
Suntana
GROWant
HappyHouse
bunkbudz
Pat999
Turbobucket
DeVille
Grandpa Tokin
ginganinja30
bignugz420
Cultivator
dom2mac
quiyettoker
 
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