First Grow Fluxing Test - THC Bomb Mars 400W II - Hydro DIY Flowtank

[tadlawid]

Don't seal the sticks into the plastic....

At the end of the Flux you'll want to cut her loose of her bonds and let her go vertical.

Continue to spread those tops. And IMO I would even begin to open up those fans to allow for the shoots to crawl out. This first set is important since it's the first set of side by side shoots that make up the first set of arms. You keep the side by side shoots and cut the top and bottom shoots. They normally grow every other.

What strain is this again? I may want to get me some because of their structure to Fluxing. Any strain that is short in overall height seems to be ideal.

But as I'm looking at this picture I do have a question. You may have solved your tie down needs.

Are the sticks long enough to go full length???

I didn't said permanently sealed i can very easily take them out. Sticks are elong enough for larger part of the tank but i can fix in other way over fixed sticks so, not a pb.

Thanks a lot for side by side shoots versus up and bottom, i'll don't forget to cut them.

With love from here

T.

Strain is THC Bomb from bombseed, mainly indica, and very short.

 

[Renegade69]

I didn't said permanently sealed i can very easily take them out. Sticks are elong enough for larger part of the tank but i can fix in other way over fixed sticks so, not a pb.

Thanks a lot for side by side shoots versus up and bottom, i'll don't forget to cut them.

With love from here

T.

Strain is THC Bomb from bombseed, mainly indica, and very short.

Cool....

Without the wire try and run the sticks just as you have them except on top of the branch. At the exact point across the branch as you have it.

 

[tadlawid]

Cool....

Without the wire try and run the sticks just as you have them except on top of the branch. At the exact point across the branch as you have it.

good idea i need to lower the plant, i'll try

 

[KingJohnC]

There was no nut in tap water as EC was 0.06 so the first one may be the good one, do you think i can have a stable 6.0 ph in few days or week just correcting ph several times a day ?

Thanks again KingJohnC.

When you eventually defeat the calcium buffer your pH should remain closer to pH 5.8. You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Here is a nutrient availability chart

 

[Renegade69]

good idea i need to lower the plant, i'll try

Don't muck around to much with lowering the plant if you can. Remember always avoid stress when you can.

Depending how stiff your wire is you may be able to use the wire if it's strong enough to keep the branches down.

Hook the wire over the edge of the rim, hook it under the rim and then back on the inside of the side wall to the pod height, across the plant and repeat on the other side.

Try that and see if it holds the plant down

 

[skunnymonster]

When you eventually defeat the calcium buffer your pH should remain closer to pH 5.8. You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Hi John, I'm in the UK using a range of nutes called Plant Magic, on the 2 part grow feed it says mix to ph 6.0 and it's a coco mix. I've been ignoring it & lowering to 5.8 but went 5.9 on the last feed. Do you think I should follow the instructions as it does conflict the 5.8 rule?
I can't see the benefit of having it at 6.0. What do you think ?

 

[Renegade69]

When you eventually defeat the calcium buffer your pH should remain closer to pH 5.8. You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Hi John, I'm in the UK using a range of nutes called Plant Magic, on the 2 part grow feed it says mix to ph 6.0 and it's a coco mix. I've been ignoring it & lowering to 5.8 but went 5.9 on the last feed. Do you think I should follow the instructions as it does conflict the 5.8 rule?
I can't see the benefit of having it at 6.0. What do you think ?

Skunny your fine. The range for hydro is 5.5-6.5 with 5.8 being optimum. If 5.8 is your ideal point then fluctuation up or down from that is ok. Say, 5.7-5.9. Check out the chart that King attached and look at what nutrients are present at each mark and also notice the increase and taper off points.

I shouldn't say present either because the chart shows the levels that are absorbed at those readings.

There actually is a benefit of higher readings like 6.0 or above IF you want to absorb more of the nutrients that are present.

Hope that makes sense....note last line in my signature...LOL.

 

[Renegade69]

good idea i need to lower the plant, i'll try

I wanted to get these pics out to you as soon as I could.

These are my ideas or variations to tie down points.

The first three show the trillis idea of using it to keep the branches down. It's tight as you can see by the coffee cups on it and could easily be used to keep the branches down. I ran out of wire so I'll get it finished today. I went with 1" squares instead of 2" because smaller squares give me more lea way when keeping the branches down. Hell I may be able to do it without tying at all.

And the beauty of this idea if it works....it fits into my OCD personality....straight lines....LOL.

These last two show two different kinds of wires and tie wrap squares.

I think this answers our questions....

 

[tadlawid]

Hi my friend;

Just a point, i would like to keep the possibility of roots checking so making a wire mesh is not the best way to do it

Chinese sticks are also a temporary solution as it prevent me to open the tank. I'm fully convinced by the tie wrap squares solution, just need to find an equivalent here. we'll be done in the week.

Thanks for all your help and advices

 

[Renegade69]

Hi my friend;

Just a point, i would like to keep the possibility of roots checking so making a wire mesh is not the best way to do it

Chinese sticks are also a temporary solution as it prevent me to open the tank. I'm fully convinced by the tie wrap squares solution, just need to find an equivalent here. we'll be done in the week.

Thanks for all your help and advices

I understand your concerns for your roots but I don't give them that much attention. I should say, I didn't give them much attention. I did give them a look or two when I changed out the water but that was it.

But do your thing....

 

[tadlawid]

Hi friends, hi my friend,

Today i had to change water so it confirms sealed sticks were not a good idea.

So temporally used some chords and stickers it will works time to find a valuable solution.

EC 0.71
PH 5.8 : mixed mineral water and tap water to see if i can brake the Ph + buffer of my tap water. As our tap water is very very poor in calcium and mag, ph is very low, so to avoid pipes to be eaten by acid they add a strong ph buffer in water to adjust to 7.3. Damn.
Temp : 90 F for three hours and now 77 F, cooler doesn't auto start. Damn again.
RH : 40 %

Clone still alive !

Here some pics of tortured baby, but i still love her :

Sorry for late update, crazy work here!

 

[Renegade69]

Hi friends, hi my friend,

Today i had to change water so it confirms sealed sticks were not a good idea.

So temporally used some chords and stickers it will works time to find a valuable solution.

Clone still alive !

Here some pics of tortured baby, but i still love her :

Sorry for late update, crazy work here!

Good morning to you too Sir....

Cut those 3 leaf fans below your flux arm.

As for the res.... Check out these two pics that I sent earlier.... Directly below that air hose up top is a value I'll be using for draining. I'll use an unused pot hole to fill it till I get a second valve up high for filling. If I do this then I will get a second res and attach the second res to the second valve.

You can barely see the valve down low in the second picture.

I do understand about opening up the lid though so we'll see how my modifications work.

I did a dry run yesterday and I'm glad I did. Full system put together and turned on with just plain water running through it.

Turns out the dam chiller is broke. Out the box and so I'm dealing with JBJ for a replacement. They say it's not their problem I have to go to the manufacture. It's a dam good thing I have time to get it straightened out. Everything else works great.

 

[skunnymonster]

Thanks Renegade69 for the explanation. I'm guessing a ph of 6.0 may be recommended as that is where their nutrients are absorbed better. I might try it on my next feed & see what transpires

 

[Light Addict]

Just got caught up! Firstly sorry I don't get around here to often, its just Im busy as hell at the moment and have a few active journals going on here. I only have a mobile phone to work from so I tend to go a bit blind after a while lol.
This is why flux central is going. Any queries at all feel free to post questions and pics. That's what its there for!
By the looks of things you have some well informed fluxers aiding you anyway renegade and skunny!
Anyway great going and holla at me anytime at flux central for quicker responses!

 

[Renegade69]

Thanks Renegade69 for the explanation. I'm guessing a ph of 6.0 may be recommended as that is where their nutrients are absorbed better. I might try it on my next feed & see what transpires

Don't miss understand me though. I still try and hit 5.8. I just don't worry to much if it ONLY fluxuates (sp) slightly.

I did push 6.0 a couple times for about a week each with no adverse effects but went back to 5.8 since the masses say that's where we are suppose to be.

 

[skunnymonster]

I've not misunderstood you I've just taken the info on board. I always go for 5.8 as my sweet spot but looking at the graph & the instructions on the nutes makes me think there may be an advantage of running the recommended ph of 6.0. I'll try it for a week & see how things go. Like the old saying says, 'Nothing ventured, nothing gained' so there's only one way to find out )

 

[Renegade69]

I've not misunderstood you I've just taken the info on board. I always go for 5.8 as my sweet spot but looking at the graph & the instructions on the nutes makes me think there may be an advantage of running the recommended ph of 6.0. I'll try it for a week & see how things go. Like the old saying says, 'Nothing ventured, nothing gained' so there's only one way to find out )

Yep....LOL

 

[KingJohnC]

When you eventually defeat the calcium buffer your pH should remain closer to pH 5.8. You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Hi John, I'm in the UK using a range of nutes called Plant Magic, on the 2 part grow feed it says mix to ph 6.0 and it's a coco mix. I've been ignoring it & lowering to 5.8 but went 5.9 on the last feed. Do you think I should follow the instructions as it does conflict the 5.8 rule?
I can't see the benefit of having it at 6.0. What do you think ?

It is normal for the pH to drift upward as nutrients are used up in the nutrient solution. If you see the nutrient availability chart indicates the rage where the peak absorption occurs, I would adjust the pH of your nutrient solution to pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir).

Here is a nutrient availability chart

 

[skunnymonster]

Thanks KingJohn, it seems odd that the company would say set at ph 6.0 as this would lock out Calcium & Magnesium. I re-potted my plant & fed at 6.0 to see if there were any ill effects or benefits, I'll keep a close eye on her & report back. I think I'll contact Plant Magic & see what they have to say about it.

Thanks again mate, your help is much appreciated

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Thanks KingJohn, it seems odd that the company would say set at ph 6.0 as this would lock out Calcium & Magnesium. I re-potted my plant & fed at 6.0 to see if there were any ill effects or benefits, I'll keep a close eye on her & report back. I think I'll contact Plant Magic & see what they have to say about it.

Thanks again mate, your help is much appreciated

FYI... Magnesium(Mg) would be OK at 6.0. It's the Manganese on the outside looking in.