First CFL Grow Using 30 Watt CFLs

no the nl bb was for someone else, they though the bb part meant blueberry but with my plant it means nl= northern lights and bb= big bud, so dont worry GiGa, its not your memory at fault, its me not making myself clear,

i got some huge news, well huge to me, i took 4 clones less than a week ago, and i never dipped them in rooting hormone and they went strait into water, now i took 2 clones off each hempie but as i put them all in the same cup of water i dont know which one i have had some luck with, anyways i checked all 4 clones and to my surprise one of them has got tiny little new roots growing, this is my first water clone so stand back while i do a little dance to celebrate my first ever water clone, so its 1 out of 4 so far, but the roots are tiny but its still got roots so i think i managed to get 1 water clone so far, just hope the other 3 follow along soon, how long do i keep them in the water before putting in pots, the roots are 2ml at the most and about 5 of them on the clone, how ever the roots are not coming out of the bottom where the cut is, the roots are coming out slightly further up where the stem is, so i have got no roots coming out of the part i cut or scraped, instead the roots have grown further up the stem where it had not been scraped or cut
 
I was me. I got a northern lights 5 with blueberry :D It looks much different and more sativa growing (its over a foot and just 2 weeks old) then his NL and big bud.

i bet Don Ps will yield a bit more, but mine will smell a bit better and they will both be potent as fuck :D.
 
no the nl bb was for someone else, they though the bb part meant blueberry but with my plant it means nl= northern lights and bb= big bud, so dont worry GiGa, its not your memory at fault, its me not making myself clear,

i got some huge news, well huge to me, i took 4 clones less than a week ago, and i never dipped them in rooting hormone and they went strait into water, now i took 2 clones off each hempie but as i put them all in the same cup of water i dont know which one i have had some luck with, anyways i checked all 4 clones and to my surprise one of them has got tiny little new roots growing, this is my first water clone so stand back while i do a little dance to celebrate my first ever water clone, so its 1 out of 4 so far, but the roots are tiny but its still got roots so i think i managed to get 1 water clone so far, just hope the other 3 follow along soon, how long do i keep them in the water before putting in pots, the roots are 2ml at the most and about 5 of them on the clone, how ever the roots are not coming out of the bottom where the cut is, the roots are coming out slightly further up where the stem is, so i have got no roots coming out of the part i cut or scraped, instead the roots have grown further up the stem where it had not been scraped or cut

couple of questions.

are the roots coming out where a node may form? (i now bury a node after seeing something on the web about there being a right wa to clone (catch all, not just MJ).)

How far beneath the surface of the water was the new root site? ( if its close to the surface of the water it may allow us to place our clones shallower in the water, reducing the risk of rot i think)
 
the roots are not coming out of a node, the roots are coming out about 1cm up from where i cut it, they are just growing out of the stem, not near a cut or a node, their is no root growth where i cut it, its about a cm up from where i cut it, not sure why they grew from their, but thats where they grew from, and its about an inch under the water, i did not scrape the stem either i just cut it at an angle then placed it under water,

i was reading my grow book last night and it was going on about double budding, basically it said put the plants into flower for 5 weeks then flip them back under veg for so many weeks, then go back to flower, this then doubles the size of the buds, the pictures in my book show buds fatter than a persons leg, these buds where huge, ill write down what it says when i get back, it does mean a longer flower time but it says the extra yield is more than worth it, their was other interesting stuff in their as well so ill check when i get back and let you know exactly what it said.

the other thing i can remember is about the co2, it told you how to work out how much co2 you need for your space etc by working some numbers out, but it also said not to use co2 in the last 2 weeks of flower as it affects the yield and quality, it said only use it until the last 2 weeks of flower, something to do with the plant slowing down and not taking as much co2 in or something along them lines, giving it co2 in the last 2 weeks causes some problem, either yield or quality, when i get back ill write it down so you can have a read.

the book was written by mr big, thats what he calls himself, he got locked up for 14 years for growing 2million pounds worth of bud, he now lives in amsterdam, the book is called the european grow guide or something similar, ill also write that down as well, tells you loads of little tricks, it also tells you how to deal with police and what to say in interviews, he wrote the book while in prison and had it published when he got out, i never read all of it before but had a good look last night,
 
this book also showed step by step guides on how to make a basic bubble cloner that will give 100% success rate, the pictures just use a small plastic tub and poke holes in the top that the stem of the clone can fit through then just have an air stone in the bottom and this splashes water onto the cloes and this water moving on the stems forces them to root a lot quicker
 
some more good news people, i have now got 2 clones rooted in the water, the 2nd clone is growing roots at the cut, the 2 that have rooted are from the same hempie, but which hempie is what i dont know, i cut 2 clones off each hempie and placed them in a tub of water, and 2 have started rooting, no signs of roots on the other clones though.

my nl x bb is nearly done, the trichs are pretty much all cloudy, the pistils are going brown and receding, so not long left, the special kush is also getting close, how ever this is mostly cloudy but the pistils are still white.

the other plants are looking good also and the hempies are now packing on the buds.

the last msg i wrote i told you all about this double budding technique, now i got home and had a good read and looked at the pics, now the bloke in the pics who did this ended up with 2 main buds that was fatter than a persons head and about 1ft long, now to do this double budding you flip the plants to 12-12, do this for 5 weeks, after week 5 you flip the plants back under 24-0 for 4 weeks, now in the book it says as the plant was in flower and flowers where well formed, then when you go back to veg the buds continue to grow but it also forces the buds to grow new flowers as its going back into veg, then after the 4 weeks you flip it back to 12-12 till finish, this then gives you an increase in yield of over 25%, it takes longer for obvious reasons, but the buds in the pics are huge, i may give this a try with one of my plants next time round, it will be interesting to see the results,

as for the extra co2, now it says in the last 2 weeks you need to lower the co2 or remove it from the room as the plant slows down in the last 2 weeks of flower and it dont take in as much co2, so this then wastes co2, so its best to lower the co2 for the last week or 2, im only telling you whats written in the book, the books called european cannabis cultivation, very interesting book
 
i know mate, its pretty strange, if you mess up the dark period then it makes the plants hermie, so i thought the same with glr, but by giving it 1 hour of light in the middle of the dark period clearly does not cause the plants to go hermie, if it did growers would not use it, so maybe their is more to the hermie thing that just the light cycle, or maybe the 1 hour been at the same time every day stops it going hermie, plus your only using glr during veg so possibly this is why it dont matter so much.
in flower i started with 12-12, but now i am trying 11-13 for the last 2 weeks to see how it does, i think the plants are finishing quicker under 11-13 but it could just be the way the plants are growing so i cant really say for sure.

its sort of following the deminishing light schedule but not exactly the same, ill leave the lights at 11-13 till they finish now, plus it cuts costs down as it means an hour less of light.

so i wonder if its only stress during flower that makes a plant go hermie, so glr is 12 hours of day followed by 12 hours of dark, but in the middle of the 12 hours of dark give it 1 hour of light, i hope thats what you mean mate and not this double bud thing im on about.

the double bud thing is put the plants under 12-12 for 5 weeks, then put them under 24-0 for 4 weeks then back under 12-12 till finish, this is meant to make the buds double in size, in the book it says the results are more than worth the extra time to flower, and the bloke who is holding the plant in the pics is a big bloke and it looks like he did it with a topped plant as it has 2 main buds, but both buds are over 1 ft long and as fat as the blokes head, this is the double bud technique, ill be trying this with one of my plants next time round as my plants are to far in flower to do it now.

so im thinking glr is ok to do as plants only go hermie in flower, or they might go hermie in veg if you stressed them loads by giving them a few days of dark and to much nutes, i have had 1 plant hermie on me and it had suffered no stress what so ever, all the other plants that was growing with it did not go hermie, it was the big bud#2 that went hermie on me, and as soon as it showed sex it was clear it was a hermie so it had not been in flower long, but that was with my last grow, with this grow i have had no problems.

i have also been reading about the difference in a usa gallon and uk gallon, here are the differences in the 2
UK gallon = 4.5 litres
US gallon = 3.8 litres

A litre is a litre wherever you are so it's easier to stick to litres or as it's spelt in american liters
 
as for the tagging of plants, all my plants are marked, i lost track with the first lot of clones but now the plants are nearly finished i can clearly tell the difference between the long thin buds of the nl x bb and the short fat buds of the kush, so all the plants in flower are labled and the jars will be labled, the only thing i never labled is the water clones, i had no luck last time i tried water cloning so i just cut some lower branches of the hempies and stuck them in a jar, i never expected them to root, but 2 have rooted, and its the same 2 clones that have rooted, as they both look different, if i pulled the hempies out the flower room i could work out which one is from which hempie as the leaves are totally different, but as i never planned on them rooting i put all 4 in the same cup and let them sit in the veg room, but the 2 that have rooted are from the same plant and the other 2 that have no roots are from the other, so clearly the one is easier to root than the other.

i have also taken another 2 cuttings from the nl x bb in flower and placed this in the water as well, so this should end up monster cropped if they root, i also took cuttings and placed them in soil 2 weeks ago, these are labled and look like they are rooting as they have not died yet,

so yep i lost track of the hempie cuttings but can work out what they are if i have a good look, all the others are labeled,

hows the clones doing mate, everything looking good still in the fridge, are you planning on changing the water out or not, i never read about changing the water, but would changing it help them last longer due to the higher o2 content in the fresh water, or get a spray bottle and put it not on the mist setting but the jet setting and give the jar a few squirts to stir the water up and put the o2 back in, but im not even sure if it makes a difference as we are not trying to get them rooted in the fridge so would it make a difference
 
Ok...so you only do that GLR in veg and plants hermie in flowering...if you are trying to duplicate nature's daylight hrs..why don't you bookmark the sunrise..sunset...calendar...then you can set your timer accordingly ...i don't know what you would do about the lights...i know the intensity changes...i think i will research that...my last grow i started at 12/12 and when they flowered i put them on 10/14..i don't know what that did besides save on elect...
 
fridge clones are doing great..got the top on the jar..i'm not going to bother them..other than post pics...i don't want the water temp to change...like a bear hiber in the cave..(do not disturb)..i guess i could have put a small air=stone in there..i have plenty of rooted clones..think i should put another rooted clone in the fridge ???
 
this book also showed step by step guides on how to make a basic bubble cloner that will give 100% success rate, the pictures just use a small plastic tub and poke holes in the top that the stem of the clone can fit through then just have an air stone in the bottom and this splashes water onto the cloes and this water moving on the stems forces them to root a lot quicker

Remember when I tried this?? 2 out of 5 got a single tap root the rest died.. and YES a single tap root, they didn't go any further then that. :/

And that's 16% more water in your gallon then ours.. Wish you had PPM meter, I'm curious.
 
with the clones mate i was wondering about that, maybe an air stone would cause problems, we dont want the clones to grow or root so im not sure its needed, just put the thought out their, didnt know if the water would go stale after some time with a clone in it, but without trying their is no way to find out, nothing i read mentioned them changing the water or air stone, i think the constant cool temp should be all is needed, so im more leaning towards just leaving them in the same water, when i get my clones rooted ill stick them in fridge, i was thinking about using 3 clones with no roots ie fresh cuttings then the other 3 would have roots like your doing, then id remove 1 of each every month and try growing and rooting them, but till i have got my cloning method sorted i wont be trying anything, im making a bubble cloner as we speak, seems about the easiest way to clone, so thats what im doing now so ill give that method a try and hopefully have more success.

this lighting schedule, glr is only used in veg and it tricks the plant into thinking its in flower so starts rapid growth so its big enough to flower, but giving it the 1 hour of light in the middle of the dark time stops it flowering, so its only used in veg, im not sure how it would work if you did say 2 hours of light in the middle of the dark period, it might work better it might work worse, but clearly these plants grow just as much in the dark as they do in the light, as i found out when i had a power cut, when the lights came back on after 22 hours in the dark i was shocked that the plants had grown more in them 22 hours than they did in the whole of 7 days, so the night time benefits growth imo,

now glr gives the plants some sort of boost and to benefit more from this you can use diminishing light schedule, what this does is follow the way nature flowers the plants, it takes a lot of setting up as you need to adjust the timers ever few weeks so you slowly reduce the daylight hours and increase the night hours, but its a lot of work to set up, but its meant to continue the boost the plants got from glr, but ive not read to much about the flowering schedule so have not used it this time round, all i have done is gone 11-13, now my plants are getting fatter but this could just be the end cycle of the plant, so it might not be down to me giving it an hours more of dark and an hour less of light, clearly a stable test would need doing with side by side grows, i just not got the room or the lights to do a big enough grow with enough plants to make it a fair test.

im trying to find info on something else i have been thinking about, in nature the plants are used to a 24 hour daily cycle, we replicate this indoors and stick to the 24 hour clock, now with the autos some of these grow in places that have nearly constant light so they clearly dont need the 24 hour clock, so i was thinking regular or fem plants do, but then i sat their thinking about light cycles and i thought well 24-0 is not sticking to a 24 hour clock its giving the plants more than 24 hours of light and they get this till you flip them 12-12, so these plants are not aware of the 24 hour clock due to them not having any cycle to follow, as far as they are concerned a day is constant light till they start to flower under 12-12, so im wondering how it would work if we changed the clock to say 28 hours or 30 hours a day, for instance plants need 12 hours of dark to flower, so say we grow the plants under 24-0 this means they are not used to a 24 hour cycle, so what would stop us giving the plant 12 hours of dark followed by 16 hours of light, would this still flower the plants, in theory it should as the plant is having its 12 hour dark period, so would this increase yield,
the other thing i was thinking was after i seen the growth after the power cut, could you give a plant 12 hours of dark followed by 8 hours of light, and follow that till the end of flower,
so im trying to look into this at the moment and work out what would work best so i dont have to do a shed load of tests, im thinking the 12 hours of dark followed by something like 14 hours of light, it might work it might not.
but you could say the same about glr, plants are used to a 24 hour cycle, so why do they grow so well under glr, i mean where on the planet do they have a sun pop up for an hour in the middle of the night, it dont happen so why do plants grow so well when we use glr.

i think their is so much we dont know and so much we can find out, im writing down as much as i can in a note book, so i can start tests and see what works, id only do it with 1 plant at a time, so with my normal grow following a normal schedule i could then use 1 plant to run these tests, some people might think its a crazy idea, but clearly plants grow well under 24-0 so this is not following a 24 hour clock its like having the sun all day and night for over a month, so thats not a natural 24 hours, and neither is glr, but both work well so their is no reason why other schedules wont work, it all depends how well they work.

im leaning towards testing 12 hours of dark followed by 14 or 16 hours of light for flower, could this get us huge buds or would it keep the plant in veg, well from what i have been reading its all about the 12 hour dark period, as long as the plant gets this it will flower, but will giving more than 12 hours of light affect the flowering process, or can we add a couple of extra daylight hours to either speed up the flower time or give us bigger buds,

if anyone has anything to add to this or comments then give me a shout, this is something im serious about and will be testing out soon, i just need to take in as much as i can and find out what possibly might work, i mean years ago their was no such thing as an auto cannabis plant, but now its been bread and we now have auto plants, not all are stable but their getting their, and these will grow under constant light as im all ready testing this this time round, i got some autos growing and they will be under 24-0 till finish,

you all might think im crazy by suggesting anything like this, but if we dont try then we dont know, i mean where did glr come from, some bloke who walked past his plants with a lantern and noticed his plants didnt flower but continued to grow really quick, if he or she never came across this then if anyone suggested it now we would probably get laughed at, but because we have tested glr and have seen the results then we know it works and its not something to be laughed at,

i always think of ways to improve things and if i can do that by changing the 24 hour clock then i think its got to be worth a try,
 
@teSmp, i remember mate, but im not getting much luck with this water cloning and rooting in pots is the unknown, all i can do is make a bubble cloner, it says if i make it and have the clones out of the water so the stem is slightly above the water, then the air stone splashes the stems with water which then runs down the stem and this is meant to promote root growth as the plant needs to grow to reach the liquid,
did you have your clones out of the water or did you have the stems in the water mate, i cant remember that far back, it says in this book to use a small tub like sandwich tub and poke holes in the top that are big enough for foam pieces that the clones can be held in, the push the clones through but make sure their not in the water. then test the air stone and make sure its splashing the water onto the lid of the bubbler, this should ensure the stems get splashed on and the water will run down them and promote root growth with no rooting hormone needed, its something i need to try mate, not getting much success with the cloning methods i use, i got the air pumps and air stones with my fish tank spares so its not going to cost me anything to make, its got to be worth a try, i need better results for my clones.

thanks for working out the extra water, so thats just under a 5th more water, so my nute mix would be more watered down than its meant to be, so im short of the actual mark when i mix it up, so if its a 5th say or just under than that means if it says add 5ml per gallon then does this mean i should need to add 6ml to make it up to what it should be, i know its not much difference but if i can push the plants and give the true amount then it can only help my grow,
 
When i stopped cloning under a dome..i went to a bubbler then i went to the aero...the bubbler works its just slower than the aero and faster than using mediums and hum domes...i used a net pot with the insert...the insert holds the clone...have the water level just below the end of the stem...when the bubbles from the stone get to the top of the water...they burst and spray moister up ...can't have no light in the bucket...
 
ok thanks mate, as you can read above teSmp had problems with the bubbler, so all i can do is give it a try, i wonder if water temp also plays a roll, we know clones like it humid, so does this work with the water as well, would it be worth standing the bubbler in a bowl of warm water for the first day or 2, also im waiting on teSmp to tell me if his clones where above the water line as well, i just need to find a decent way of getting regular viable clones, you know the aero clone, is this the one with the pump on a timer and it pumps water over the bottom of the clones or net pot, i need to try and make something that will give me good results, ive seen people take 30 or 40 clones and they all root and they keep the strong ones, but is their actually any difference between a clone that roots early compared to one that roots a few days later, surely once they both have roots they should be the same when it comes to growing, i just dont know enough about it to comment or suggest anything new, ill give the bubbler a try, it wont cost me anything and ive got the stuff ready to make it, is it best to use plain water or a very weak nute mix say 1/10th strength or weaker
 
i used plain ro water...no nutes..i used clonning gel..i didn't pay any attention to water temp..i know its suppose to be warm...the distance to the water ?...as close as you can get without being in...you just want the spray from bursting bubbles hitting the stem...if a video would help...i'll send you a link...:thumb:
 
diy aero cloner is great I seen roots in 7 days. I was using jiffy pucks before which had alot more work to do like misting, humd checks, fresh air, getting the right temps. aero cloner I cut the clone put in the cloner and wait love it.
 
im trying to find info on something else i have been thinking about, in nature the plants are used to a 24 hour daily cycle, we replicate this indoors and stick to the 24 hour clock, now with the autos some of these grow in places that have nearly constant light so they clearly dont need the 24 hour clock, so i was thinking regular or fem plants do, but then i sat their thinking about light cycles and i thought well 24-0 is not sticking to a 24 hour clock its giving the plants more than 24 hours of light and they get this till you flip them 12-12, so these plants are not aware of the 24 hour clock due to them not having any cycle to follow, as far as they are concerned a day is constant light till they start to flower under 12-12, so im wondering how it would work if we changed the clock to say 28 hours or 30 hours a day, for instance plants need 12 hours of dark to flower, so say we grow the plants under 24-0 this means they are not used to a 24 hour cycle, so what would stop us giving the plant 12 hours of dark followed by 16 hours of light, would this still flower the plants, in theory it should as the plant is having its 12 hour dark period, so would this increase yield,

Heya mate
sry its been a while, work, kids e.t.c...got a bit of burn out and something had to give so im just on the computer less and s;eeping more.

With regard to the above, im inclined to agree with you about a 24 hour clock, but there is 1 flaw in your method that i can see.

the reason that the plants go into flower and why they dont in GLR is that the plant produces a hormone that triggers flower, but this hormone is destroyed by light.

the hour of light is enough in GLR to correct the balance, but in your 16/12 method its getting more light than dark and will stay veg. 16/16 may work tho.

there is a very fine, almost negligable margin of error in the glr routine, less than an hour and the plant could flower, more than an hour and you may defeat the purpose.

also, you dont put your full lights on in GLR so you can save some energy, 1 or 2 cfls are enough to wake the plant from its slumber, iirc, you dont actually want to cause photosynthesis, just turn on the photo period.

that hormone is effectivly the physics we have to work with when calculating what we can do with the plant.


hope this helps =)
 
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