Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

Jimmy is the higher reading from the 1st cob test compared to the 1212 at the same distance, due to colour differences.
I would expect 4000k to output more than a 3000k.

Or is that not a correct way to interpret PAR?

JimmyJames905 said:
PAR test of CLU048-1212 3000k 90CRI @ 1050ma.
chips I got from Fanleaf.
8" from sensor.
PAR testing COB's- CLU048-1212 3000k 90CRI - YouTube


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Posativek said:
Jimmy is the higher reading from the 1st cob test compared to the 1212 at the same distance, due to colour differences.
I would expect 4000k to output more than a 3000k.

Or is that not a correct way to interpret PAR?
Click to expand...
You are right. The 4000k will have more par. What type of par meter is that Jimmy?

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Posativek said:
Jimmy is the higher reading from the 1st cob test compared to the 1212 at the same distance, due to colour differences.
I would expect 4000k to output more than a 3000k.

Or is that not a correct way to interpret PAR?
Click to expand...

The first par test was on a 1700K Vero 18 chip. The citi is a 3000k 90 cri. And you are correct. PAR cannot be determined that way. Kelvin is color temperature based on the visible spectrum. PAR results depend on the light's ability to produce light suitable to the chlorophyll A and B plant receptors in the 400-500nm and 600-700nm wavelength. This is why the 17E (1700k 78 Lm/w) was only 20 micromoles lower than the 3000k citi 1212 (123 Lm/w). Though the CLU is much brighter, some of that brightness lies in the 500-600nm (green) range resulting in the PAR value on both chips to be about the same.


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fanleaf said:
You are right. The 4000k will have more par. What type of par meter is that Jimmy?

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That's the Hydrofarm quantum par meter. It doesn't have very many bells and whistles and the data logging is choppy but it's a solid meter for under $300. (CDN). I took it to the university and compared it to two of their par meters. It's within 10 micromoles accuracy on incandescent, LED COB and T5HO but was off by almost 100 micromoles on "Blurple" leds.


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fanleaf said:
I just bought my first bigazz Arduino kit. More than anything to get the hang of writing their code. So far their "lesson" projects bore the hell out of e but I'm going through them. I bought a UNO R3 Project Complete Starter Kit with Tutorial for Arduino MEGA2560. The projects are childs play but learning the code is what I'm after so I do them.
Click to expand...

Yeh it's not a case of wiring and matching watts anymore.

Even I'm nearly passed that stage, with help from yourself and other kind folk on the forum.

Now it's all about the coding

The-Matrix.jpg


(the bullets represent data sheets from COB makers:)))

Welcome to the Matrix!

My plan is for an entire cycle on a fully automate system. Ph, EC, Temp, Hum, Timing, sunrise, set, colour temp changes for added seasonal erffect etc.

Might not be of any help but these aquarium boys have been farting around with adruino lighting for as long as the tech has been around. Hunt on youtube videos like "aquaporns" channel and he will dump coding in the description.

These guys all run PH metres everything. So the coding they write is sh*t hot and they give it away for free.
 
This is all correct but a 4000k chip will usually always out perform a 3000k chip watt for watt in par simply because they make more light. That makes it hard for the more red 3000k to produce the par a 4000k does.

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JimmyJames905 said:
Because there's the Meanwell smart dimmer you can use. It's USB programmable.
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Had a look into these further but the dimming seems to be standard pedometer and they refuse to say how the timing function works. Also which software drives it.

From what I can tell so far, controlling these via wifi is not optional, whilst the little LDD drivers attached to a wifi enabled Arduino will.
 
Posativek said:
Had a look into these further but the dimming seems to be standard pedometer and they refuse to say how the timing function works. Also which software drives it.

From what I can tell so far, controlling these via wifi is not optional, whilst the little LDD drivers attached to a wifi enabled Arduino will.
Click to expand...
The meanwell software is free on the meanwell site. Its driven via PWM.

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fanleaf said:
The meanwell software is free on the meanwell site. Its driven via PWM.

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Ah I see,

Couldn't find those little USB ones for love nor money. Didn't notice the link you gave to Mouser. Turns out in my country they don't even list a picture for it in the descriptions even on mouser.
I was looking at the standard timed, dimmable brick types, or data sheets of.

12 week wait $20 - $75 no data sheets?

They appear to run parallel to another Meanwell driver so in other words a digital pedometer?
Its not the driver directly connected to the COB.

So I assume the software is just an app made by Meanwell where you type in certain requirements based on the existing software?
 
Fanleaf's Huge 42 Cree CXB3590 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

Posativek said:
Ah I see,

Couldn't find those little USB ones for love nor money. Didn't notice the link you gave to Mouser. Turns out in my country they don't even list a picture for it in the descriptions even on mouser.
I was looking at the standard timed, dimmable brick types, or data sheets of.

12 week wait $20 - $75 no data sheets?

They appear to run parallel to another Meanwell driver so in other words a digital pedometer?
Its not the driver directly connected to the COB.

So I assume the software is just an app made by Meanwell where you type in certain requirements based on the existing software?
Click to expand...

Coralux hurricane with the 5v->10v PWM converter. It will control up to 6 drivers and includes...
16x2 Character LCD Display
6-Channel 8-Bit PWM (0-5V)
256 Dimming Levels
Real-Time Clock Module
Manual Sunrise/Sunset Time
Geolocated Sunrise/Sunset
Staggered Sunrise/Set Delays
Moon/Lunar Phase Simulation
Intuitive Wheel Interface
SmoothRamp Dimming
SmoothRamp Clouds
Cloud Channel Clustering
Lightning Storm Effects
Upgradeable via FTDI
PC Fan Control
Arduino Compatible
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The problem with dimming the LED's is that there is still a signficant amount of light at the absolute lowest setting. Try it with a potentiometer and you will see that it goes from dark, to bright (or at least with the LED's that I'm using) and then super bright as you turn up the resistance.

You won't get the gradual increase from total darkness to bright light without some other kind of lower power LED's to handle the gradual increase until your main LED's kick in.
 
Hi fanleaf, great job on your build.
Hope you dont mind me asking, but i recently purchased 2 cob led grow lights online from china on the bay (i know i know :/) and they are terrible, i dont even think they work at all.
Anyway i was wondering is it possible for me to replace the cheap cobs in them with 2 cree cxb3590, and would it be a straight swap or would it be more complex than simply replacing the cobs ??

Sorry i dont know how to upload images on here, but the light is searchable on google as: "dominator cob led" it is blue and is the small one with only 2 lights.

Thank you for any help fanleaf and keep doing what your doing i hope to one day make my own cree cob grow light and save money on wasting it buying crappy lights from flee-bay. Thanks again.
 
415friendly said:
The problem with dimming the LED's is that there is still a signficant amount of light at the absolute lowest setting. Try it with a potentiometer and you will see that it goes from dark, to bright (or at least with the LED's that I'm using) and then super bright as you turn up the resistance.

You won't get the gradual increase from total darkness to bright light without some other kind of lower power LED's to handle the gradual increase until your main LED's kick in.
Click to expand...

That's because you're using analog dimming with a potentiometer. Analog dimming is not as accurate as digital dimming. Analog dimming results also may vary from potentiometer to potentiometer depending on its resistance.
Digital (PWM) dimming gives you 256 levels of dimming.

Don't worry, I still use analog dimming too. I've found I have to tune my potentiometers depending on my build. For instance, with the HLG-185H-C1400 running four Vero 29 D class chips I have to limit the top end resistance to about 87k. Otherwise the driver adds more currant on the top end (88k-100k range) without the array getting any brighter. On the HLG-240H-C1750 with the same four D class chips I have to limit the pot to around 79k on the top end. After that point it doesn't get any brighter and the extra heat watts begin to multiply exponentially.


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fanleaf said:
This is all correct but a 4000k chip will usually always out perform a 3000k chip watt for watt in par simply because they make more light. That makes it hard for the more red 3000k to produce the par a 4000k does.

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From my understanding reds produce more heat, less lumens and less par. It takes more energy to produce the same PAR the longer the wavelength gets.


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Jamess00 said:
Hi fanleaf, great job on your build.
Hope you dont mind me asking, but i recently purchased 2 cob led grow lights online from china on the bay (i know i know :/) and they are terrible, i dont even think they work at all.
Anyway i was wondering is it possible for me to replace the cheap cobs in them with 2 cree cxb3590, and would it be a straight swap or would it be more complex than simply replacing the cobs ??

Sorry i dont know how to upload images on here, but the light is searchable on google as: "dominator cob led" it is blue and is the small one with only 2 lights.

Thank you for any help fanleaf and keep doing what your doing i hope to one day make my own cree cob grow light and save money on wasting it buying crappy lights from flee-bay. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
To tell you I need the specs on your driver/s that you have. Voltage/current rating of driver. Perhaps the seller can give you the info.

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JimmyJames905 said:
Crack 'er open.


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Problem with it will more then likely be that his drivers are probably jusp pcb boards with cheap components and no info.

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fanleaf said:
Problem with it will more then likely be that his drivers are probably jusp pcb boards with cheap components and no info.

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Cheap incorrectly or unlabeled parts? From China?
Impossible.
Lol.


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Thanks for your reply's fanleaf and Jimmy, i will crack 'er open and see what it says inside. It likely will be inacurate information inside anyway, but i am willing to try with it anyway, not really too bothered if i break it as its pretty much unusable anyway, i would send it back but as i only bought it 2 weeks ago but it will probably cost me more that its worth to return it.

I will let yas know what it says inside once i know, thanks very much for your help.
 
Ok, i have opened her up.

There are 3 drivers, 1 smaller than the other 2.
The 2 bigger ones info:-
LED DRIVER
Model: HP001A
Input: 100-240 VA C 50/60HZ
Output Voltage: 45-75V DC
Constant Current: 700mA

The smaller driver info:-
LED DRIVER
Input: 100-240VAC 0.25A
50/60Hz
Output: 1A
Constant Voltage: 12V
Max Output: 12W

Hope this helps, i will try to post pics them.
Thanks again for any advice.
 
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