Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

Have you guys seen a variable voltage and current drivers that mars uses. I'm just going by nameplate. I was going to try to use it for something but dependability worries me.
14872647356641185623808.jpg
 
Fanleaf's Huge 42 Cree CXB3590 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

fanleaf said:
Cnile. Here are some numbers from an actual LUX meter from a single 3590 chip.

1400mA
6"=186,000
12"=52,500
24"=11,100
36"=6000

2100mA
6"=210,000
12"=99,000
24"=19,000
36"=8000

Hope that helps
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Awesome perfect. So now know the spread of light vertically. Can you do this not directly under cob but off to the side now.

6", 12"

Maybe like that. So same height as before. But off center to get data on spread of light horizontally also. Thanks.


Can u add temps of cobs
Also can u get what watts were those drawing.

Thanks

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Buckshot317 said:
Have you guys seen a variable voltage and current drivers that mars uses. I'm just going by nameplate. I was going to try to use it for something but dependability worries me.
14872647356641185623808.jpg
Click to expand...
Perfect for a 50v Vero.
 
cnile said:
Awesome perfect. So now know the spread of light vertically. Can you do this not directly under cob but off to the side now.

6", 12"

Maybe like that. So same height as before. But off center to get data on spread of light horizontally also. Thanks.


Can u add temps of cobs
Also can u get what watts were those drawing.

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using 420
Click to expand...

You can do some of this work yourself. I've listed the volt/amp charts here just a page or 2 back were you thanked me for them. That tells you the wattage. 4000k was the temp. I don't mind helping but I don't need to put all the work in and lay it on a platter either. It's a simple calculation. The strength and angles of radiation are listed in the datasheet. With the info I have given everything else should be quite simple to figure out.
Heres the datasheet.
CREE DATASHEET

A little elbow grease would be fine.
j60.JPG
 
fanleaf said:
You can do some of this work yourself. I've listed the volt/amp charts here just a page or 2 back were you thanked me for them. That tells you the wattage. 4000k was the temp. I don't mind helping but I don't need to put all the work in and lay it on a platter either. It's a simple calculation. The strength and angles of radiation are listed in the datasheet. With the info I have given everything else should be quite simple to figure out.
Heres the datasheet.
CREE DATASHEET

A little elbow grease would be fine.
j60.JPG
Click to expand...

K I'll ise what you have gave me. I thought you were interested also and had all the stuff to do it.

Yea it's all different in lab vs ur set up. Different equipments makes for different data.

I'll post results in diy lighting eventually probably won't be for months before I can do it all.


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cnile said:
K I'll ise what you have gave me. I thought you were interested also and had all the stuff to do it.

Yea it's all different in lab vs ur set up. Different equipments makes for different data.

I'll post results in diy lighting eventually probably won't be for months before I can do it all.


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Click to expand...

I don't even have a clue as to what your really doing lol. I realize it's something vs a T5. I just don't understand exactly what your trying to accomplish.
 
cnile said:
K I'll ise what you have gave me. I thought you were interested also and had all the stuff to do it.

Yea it's all different in lab vs ur set up. Different equipments makes for different data. Sent from my iPhone using 420
Click to expand...



I do own a T5 reflector and bulbs. Is it a simple par test 1 vs the other?
 
fanleaf said:
I don't even have a clue as to what your really doing lol. I realize it's something vs a T5. I just don't understand exactly what your trying to accomplish.
Click to expand...





its not really about a t5.
remember i said that was just example. i should have been more clear from gate man sorry about that i can tell its frustrated you.

what i was trying to do when i came here was figure out how the cob performs under your setup (your cooling methods and basic setup, your way of attaching cob, thermal paste, all that shit)

once i figured out how it did under your setup, the spread of light, or how the light dissapates vertically and horizontally then i could figure how many i need to replace what i was going to buy - two or three 600watt hps.

i know cree has data. its incomplete and i have found that data from a lab or hipothetical is never the same as real world, so i asked you.
the cobs will perform much different with different cooling and drivers so the lab test cree does dont really matter to me. but with you here i could see how the cob does under the same exact way i would build it. same cooling, same reflector, same driver. so it would be easy to figure ok, i want to drive these with 3 amps, cause the light spread is so damn much beter. or ok, i dont want the relfector you use because it dosn't make a big difference.

also would find out how much spread from one cob. so then ill know how far to space them horizontally, and about how much room ill need overhead by your vertical light spread data from lux meter.

so i know i could just do it all like you and it would work, i get that. you have a great method tested that works. but i cant spend 4.5k on a light man. when i can get the $200hps i need this to be relativly cheap or at least pay for itself soon.

so with your data of whats best to drive them at (current/volts) and the light spread then ill know how many, what drivers, what it cost to run, and how it will compare to my hps because i have one running i can test the same manner your testing yours - how many watts at wall, and how much general lux is coming from it. of course ill have to keep in mind its 1 cob vs a 600 watt hps, but it should be easy i can just scale up your data until its around the same. that will tell me how many cobs to get to match my 600hps also.

so im not sure why you seem so upset about questions but i though in the begining you said no problem.
 
cnile said:
its not really about a t5.
remember i said that was just example. i should have been more clear from gate man sorry about that i can tell its frustrated you.

what i was trying to do when i came here was figure out how the cob performs under your setup (your cooling methods and basic setup, your way of attaching cob, thermal paste, all that shit)

once i figured out how it did under your setup, the spread of light, or how the light dissapates vertically and horizontally then i could figure how many i need to replace what i was going to buy - two or three 600watt hps.

i know cree has data. its incomplete and i have found that data from a lab or hipothetical is never the same as real world, so i asked you.
the cobs will perform much different with different cooling and drivers so the lab test cree does dont really matter to me. but with you here i could see how the cob does under the same exact way i would build it. same cooling, same reflector, same driver. so it would be easy to figure ok, i want to drive these with 3 amps, cause the light spread is so damn much beter. or ok, i dont want the relfector you use because it dosn't make a big difference.

also would find out how much spread from one cob. so then ill know how far to space them horizontally, and about how much room ill need overhead by your vertical light spread data from lux meter.

so i know i could just do it all like you and it would work, i get that. you have a great method tested that works. but i cant spend 4.5k on a light man. when i can get the $200hps i need this to be relativly cheap or at least pay for itself soon.

so with your data of whats best to drive them at (current/volts) and the light spread then ill know how many, what drivers, what it cost to run, and how it will compare to my hps because i have one running i can test the same manner your testing yours - how many watts at wall, and how much general lux is coming from it. of course ill have to keep in mind its 1 cob vs a 600 watt hps, but it should be easy i can just scale up your data until its around the same. that will tell me how many cobs to get to match my 600hps also.

so im not sure why you seem so upset about questions but i though in the begining you said no problem.
Click to expand...

Well it's pretty simple really. It''s even covered with several people through the large array build. How many cobs per square feet TOTALLY depend on the end result you would like to get. I would put it in 3 options really.

Option 1
Drive the cobs hard to get more coverage vert and horiz. You can cover over 2 square feet per cob easy. Less cobs, less $$, far far less efficient and still a good amount of heat. You will be in the low to mid 40's as far as efficiency. Double ended hps = 41% at most

Option2
More cobs driven at a medium drive. Still cover over 1.5 square feet fer cob. More money but not a bunch more, more efficient somewhere in high 40's to low 50% efficient. More efficient then a double ended hps but not enough to brag about. Still a fair amount of heat but not too much.

Option 3
1 cob per square foot. Much more $$ than option 1 up front. very even canopy coverage, driving cobs very very soft, least amount of heat, more efficient than ANY grow light on the market. 60% efficient.

This all depends on what chip you use though. Some are far far more efficient then others.

Bro, I have programs and can make this whole thing very very simple for you. All you needed to do is give me your room size and I can give you several options like the ones listed above. These programs give pretty accurate ppfd numbers for any array I tell it to calculate.

By the way. A guy just sent a Cree chip off for a very expensive scientific test in a light sphere. That chip matched the manufacturers specs on the nose. Those data sheets are a Guaranteed sheet with minimum and maximum tolerances listed. That's why Cree sorts their chips by bin.

We dont need to be wasting time with LUX or anything like that man. No matter what you see or read you cannot convert LUX to par/ppfd with ANY accuracy. There are calculators out there for it but even they tell you they may be far off. It's impossible to convert it accurately because the 2 are in no way related. Lumens can be considered related and more easily converted with "some" accuracy but not lux from what I understand.

Just give me your room size man....From that I can give you a "less expensive" option, a middle option and an all out "performance" option and we can tweak it from there. I can tell you how many heat watts will be created in each scenario and everything man.

I can tell you how much par you could expect in different scenarios as well.
 
JimmyJames905 said:
Ya. That thing will drive the hell out of a B series Vero. You'll need at least a 133mm sink though. Or Active cooling.


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Yep, Ive never seen that driver before but I like it lol.
 
Jimmy...You ever seen the Meanwell programmable smart dimmer? You can program your drivers (all of them) with laptop and USB to dim or go bright in whatever stages you want. I bought one to eff with. Got it in today.
 
Fanleaf's Huge 42 Cree CXB3590 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

fanleaf said:
Jimmy...You ever seen the Meanwell programmable smart dimmer? You can program your drivers (all of them) with laptop and USB to dim or go bright in whatever stages you want. I bought one to eff with. Got it in today.
Click to expand...

D series? Ya. I'm learning Arduino uno to take advantage of the D series. Until then I've ordered the Typhoon 4 channel LED controller. I want to up the game on my LED array builds and offer things you usually find in a $1800 array. I was looking at bluefish too but I'm not sure if there's a big demand for wifi controllers without some programmer building a iPhone/android app that supports it and a live video feed function. For those who want to check water levels, hygrometer settings automated ph balancing (hydrofarm autopilot) etc and view a live feed of your plants. Hoping to produce a full start to finish auto system at a good price in one easy to use kit. Gonna be a long ride.
These are the features typhoon offers. Don't think wifi connectivity will be too much of an issue
420-magazine-mobile1567931972.jpg


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