Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

All you need is a single pole double throw if using the same driver for both chips. Neg always on both chips. Flip switch one way for flower, flip switch other way for veg.
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That's what I initially thought. I just didn't know if a connected negative would be a source for problems.


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Meanwhile 1 of my 2 girls is getting close. White Widdow X Big Bud starting to die off like she should. Few more days and chop chop. Gonna give her a few more days under the UVB.
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Is that the board with the led's, but flipped over?

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No. This light has 1 aluminum plate the size of the whole light and then three smaller fin heat sinks screwed to the back of it. The LED board had about 50 tiny screws holding it to the aluminum heatsink
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The disarray in the background of your conversion pics makes me wonder if you have a flux capacitor stashed away somewhere. I'm sure we could come up with 1.21 jigawatts to power it. :)

And thank you, Fanleaf, for answering my PM. Much appreciated!
 
The disarray in the background of your conversion pics makes me wonder if you have a flux capacitor stashed away somewhere. I'm sure we could come up with 1.21 jigawatts to power it. :)

And thank you, Fanleaf, for answering my PM. Much appreciated!
lol. I call it organized chaos. That's where I work all day long so I've got tools and everything strung everywhere.

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I bit the bullet. I have eight complete 36V 3500K CXB3590s with heat sinks coming from the land down under. Cutter had three of their CXB359-LHA36V COB kits in stock.
I'll source power supplies in the US.

Let the madness continue!



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Heck yeah man! Once your running it you will never go back!
 
Hey fanleaf. What would you say? How much light will 5mm of glass between the plants and the COBs would cost?

I ask because i was thinking about CO2 in the big 2000W grow room. To cut down veg times and to have less heat stress. By putting the lights above a sealed but removeable glass floor and sucking out the heat of it directly through the outside wall of the house (like a huuuge cool tube) it would be possible running lights at full blast without heat problems and let the plants sit in 1500ppm CO2 for longer periods.

Room size is 4' deep, 12' long, 8 feet high. I thought about giving the plants about 6 feet incl pots and 2 feet for the 'cool tunnel' so there is some room for the lights if rhey need adjusting. I could bring in some tables as long as the plants are smaller.

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Like this. . .

My first journal What's That? - White Light - What Does It Do? - It Grows

Using that light My very first DIY COB fixture
 
Hey fanleaf. What would you say? How much light will 5mm of glass between the plants and the COBs would cost?

I ask because i was thinking about CO2 in the big 2000W grow room. To cut down veg times and to have less heat stress. By putting the lights above a sealed but removeable glass floor and sucking out the heat of it directly through the outside wall of the house (like a huuuge cool tube) it would be possible running lights at full blast without heat problems and let the plants sit in 1500ppm CO2 for longer periods.

Room size is 4' deep, 12' long, 8 feet high. I thought about giving the plants about 6 feet incl pots and 2 feet for the 'cool tunnel' so there is some room for the lights if rhey need adjusting. I could bring in some tables as long as the plants are smaller.

420-magazine-mobile810232435.jpg


Like this. . .

My first journal What's That? - White Light - What Does It Do? - It Grows

Using that light My very first DIY COB fixture
I think the biggest loss would be in failing to keep the glass clean and what type of glass is selected. I think if good quality glass is used and the glass is kept dust free the losses would be minimal. My guess is 5-7%. I would look at different glass to see if theres light transmission ratings. I do like the idea though. I just run some ac in the hottest part of summer but not much. Usually Im struggling to keep temperatures high enough until mid summer.

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Well, I will be posting the build of the Advanced 150 to Citi conversion real soon. Its finished and BADAZZ!!!!
Ill do a video on it and post it here shortly.
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I think the biggest loss would be in failing to keep the glass clean and what type of glass is selected. I think if good quality glass is used and the glass is kept dust free the losses would be minimal. My guess is 5-7%. I would look at different glass to see if theres light transmission ratings. I do like the idea though. I just run some ac in the hottest part of summer but not much. Usually Im struggling to keep temperatures high enough until mid summer.

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Yes it really depends where you live and where in the house the fun happens. In my case no cold winds hit the window nor the direct sun will hit this side of the house.

i think between November and April the glass wont be needed. but then it gets really warm over here and thats were this thing could so some serious stuff. Not shure which side his room is pointing and how wind and sun hit the wall.

I was prepared for up to 10 percent loss and was not shure if the co2 would still do any good in that range, but i think if there are 10 rows with 5x40W over 10 plants there should be enough even if i am laying on the glass :) 55w/sqft from wall to wall

The thing is i wont be able to select between different types of glass. I want it free or super cheap over connections.

Its a nice feature if its too hot, but the hopes go more in the direction of an effective way to gas the plants without spreading it where it does nothing and could cause harm

Current Grow SeymoreNuggets Flowering Journal - Nebula & Atomical Haze - Soil - 2x3 - 420W DIY COB

My journey seeking the light. Found some
SeymoreNuggets DIY For Noobs - Build Lights - CO2 Supplements - Auto-Watering - More
 
Yes it really depends where you live and where in the house the fun happens. In my case no cold winds hit the window nor the direct sun will hit this side of the house.

i think between November and April the glass wont be needed. but then it gets really warm over here and thats were this thing could so some serious stuff. Not shure which side his room is pointing and how wind and sun hit the wall.

I was prepared for up to 10 percent loss and was not shure if the co2 would still do any good in that range, but i think if there are 10 rows with 5x40W over 10 plants there should be enough even if i am laying on the glass :) 55w/sqft from wall to wall

The thing is i wont be able to select between different types of glass. I want it free or super cheap over connections.

Its a nice feature if its too hot, but the hopes go more in the direction of an effective way to gas the plants without spreading it where it does nothing and could cause harm

Current Grow SeymoreNuggets Flowering Journal - Nebula & Atomical Haze - Soil - 2x3 - 420W DIY COB

My journey seeking the light. Found some
SeymoreNuggets DIY For Noobs - Build Lights - CO2 Supplements - Auto-Watering - More

Besides the C02 for the extra heat maybe when you can grab an Apogee to set your ppfd @1200+ so you can take advantage of the C02 growth wise would be a good idea too.
 
I think when we finally get this room runnings its time for an apogee to know what we're working with and without the glass

Is it the case plants that used to grow with 350-400ppm would not benefit from smaller boosts to lets say 600ppm without 1200+ppfd? I thought 1200+ is only required when you go over 1000ppm for example. Just curious

Current Grow SeymoreNuggets Flowering Journal - Nebula & Atomical Haze - Soil - 2x3 - 420W DIY COB

My journey seeking the light. Found some
SeymoreNuggets DIY For Noobs - Build Lights - CO2 Supplements - Auto-Watering - More
 
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