DWC Fastbuds Gorilla Cookie Auto

Base on your excitement, don't kill your plants with love. The most common problem with any grow but especially in DWC is nutrient lock out. Too much of any one mineral prevents the plant from being able to absorb another mineral. Over feeding causes the lock out and PH imbalances. EXTREEM under feeding will cause a week slow growing plant. A little too much over feeding can kill a plant. Always aim on the the low side of feeding. Seedlings only need 1/8 to 1/4 strength nutes. The plant can not access the nutrients if the PH is way off. You are aiming for PH6 but within .5 drift is normal. You will go insane and most likely cause wild drifting trying to hold dead on PH6.
 
Yeah thats what i was thinking, so I will bare that in mind going forward, So ive just filled a bucket with tap water, going to leave it overnight then adjust PH an PPM this is for hydroton to sit an soak in, before ready for use, then will re-do water leaving out as much as i can to dissolve chlorine and lower PPM with R,O water heading for about 150, so just asking, my tap water coming in around PPM 220 -250 so for seedling and 1st wk of veg could i get away with not adding R,O for wk 1 wk2, then add R.O when I introduce the nutes, at an eighth of the recommended dose at wk 2/3 any advise on this one guys
 
Until it has roots and first true leaves ( jagged edged ) you don't need nutes or even a res. Takes around 2 weeks to get to that point from seed. Soak the rock wool in PH water. Gently squeeze out a little of the water. Place the seed 1/4 deep. place it on a plate with a glass jar dome over it. This is also when the plant is the most fragile, growing on stored reserves.

Vary high PPM water has a few problems. Adding nutes can over saturate the water forcing minerals to fall out of solution. You would have to have vary hard water over 500 PPM and really boosting nute for that. The bigger problem is you are adding minerals that you can not measure or regulate. For example if your water already has 120PPM of calcium and you add more you can create a phosphorous lock out. The plant will show signs of phosphorous deficiency even though there is plenty in the res.

Nutrient-Lockout-Chart-from-Excess-Nutrients.jpg
 
just a quick update; seeds are here so happy, but they didnt have the FB Gorrilla cookie in stock, so going to start with FB Original W/W so I will update the page and change the details later, cant wait to get stuck in now, just got to grab some rockwool and some more R,O water, just asking might be a stupid question like lol so is de;ironised water the same thing as R.0 and can this be used to lower PPM
So the times just about here gotta grab some rockwool on friday and some other little bits next wk, and deffo going to be looking into a new PH meter, dropped my cheap one in water now is naff, so yeah one of those water proof bluelabs it will be, its just the price but once ive got going I will get one just going to get 2 cheap ones for now, as still got extractor and filter to get, so you guys are in the know Im only going to be doing 1 plant on the first run, so would i still need an extractor and filter, and if its yes (was getting one) when will i need it in place, should it be ok with no extractor fan until wk? its just that I have to spread out the costs you see, if extractor not needed for ie; 5/6 wks can I can get the bluelab first, as i get how important the PH is in DWC, so guys based on what guys think when would I need the extractor in there, baring in mind seed will only just be getting its 1st soak this wk, room size 2x6x8
 
A single plant is much easier to grow than multiple strains.

Ro water and distilled are pretty much interchangeable. 99% pure H2O. DI has been treated to just remove mineral salts. As far as I know there is no standard minimum salt level required for this label. Just to be clear, metals, micro and macro nutrients are chemically called mineral salts. DI has not been filtered for organic, bacterial, viral impurities and is not considered safe for human consumption so it is not as regulated for purity. I wouldn't mess with DI.

As for the extractor, you should be ok for some time. The extractor has two functions. Remove moisture and replace O2 rich air with CO2. Both of these are tied to the plants water consumption and transpiration. For every us gallon (3.8 litters) of water the plant uses, it produces O2 equal to the consumption of a human at rest for 1 hour. Adding in the air exchange of opening the door CO2 is not and issue. Seedlings should be started at around 80% RH and slowly lowered into the 50%RH range during first 4 weeks of veg. and 40%Rh range for flower. If your RH gets too high before you get an exhaust fan you can vent the room with a fan blowing out the door for a few minutes. You need a fan in the room for constant air flow anyway.

The terpene smells start building at around 4 weeks from germination so if that is an issue plan on an extractor with a carbon filter by then. Got a little nervous when a new neighbor told me the smell from my house always makes him hungry. He then said, another neighbor already told him I have an indoor grill, grow herbs and dwarf citrus that I bring in for the winter. Not illegal here but still don't want to advertise.
 
thats great thanks for all advice its much appreciated and thats to everyone in assisting I know I ask alot of questions, Im abit of control freak thats why I opted for DWC all the data collection and all that, and then a year dwn the line I can be the one assisting an helping out the new growers, as with being disabled means I have alot of time on my hands, so thanks peeps,
Well quick question peeps?
Just saw this poly box cant spell it properly but will upload pics, so I grab it to stop it going to tip, thinking I could possibly make good use of it, ie: insulating grow bucket and cos its got a lid I could use this for top to reflect the light, so what you guys think would that be any good any thoughts here are the pics of g/room now

WIN_20220504_15_48_25_Pro.jpg
 
looks like the foam cooler material that sheds little balls if you break it. If it is I wouldn't use it. Too brittle to trust holding the pressure of the water and near impossible to keep clean. You could place your bucket inside it but unless you are chilling the water there is no point in the insulation. It won't make the water warmer or colder on it's own.
 
yeah I was thinking using it to ensure theres no light getting in? by just using it to help reflect the light, with a slit down the middle to accomadate the plants stem so I can slide the plant in an out, when do I water change, wasnt thinking about using it for water or anything else, just thought i could use it to just keep the light out
 
Listersmeghead said:
Nice!
Seeds arrived :thumb:

When I ordered gorilla cookies they sent cream cookies instead....I set the wife on them and ended up with free cream cookies seeds plus my gorilla cookies...
Seems the gorilla cookies is very popular...always out of stock.
I've not tried a fastbuds ww, exciting!
Good luck
Click to expand...
 
spab1311 said:
yeah I was thinking using it to ensure theres no light getting in? by just using it to help reflect the light, with a slit down the middle to accomadate the plants stem so I can slide the plant in an out, when do I water change, wasnt thinking about using it for water or anything else, just thought i could use it to just keep the light out
Click to expand...
I used foam and foil backed cardboard the same way when I started DWC. You are using a black bucket and lid, right? You strive for complete light control but vary small leaks are inevitable and acceptable in a room more than a tent. Make a conscious effort but don't stress over light leaks too much. As long as your res is darker than a full moon night, you are good. In flower you do not want a beam of light hitting the plant but some minor diffused glow generally will not cause problems.

Have you considered constructing a movable reflector panel for the fourth wall around the plant?

That box could make a decent cloning chamber in the future. Cloning is vary easy, cuts weeks off your veg time, no more fragile seedlings, an exact genetic copy of the mother plant.
 
Hi @spab1311 Looks like you have a good start. I started out with DWC too, I'd love to follow along.
 
Sativa1970 said:
I used foam and foil backed cardboard the same way when I started DWC. You are using a black bucket and lid, right? You strive for complete light control but vary small leaks are inevitable and acceptable in a room more than a tent. Make a conscious effort but don't stress over light leaks too much. As long as your res is darker than a full moon night, you are good. In flower you do not want a beam of light hitting the plant but some minor diffused glow generally will not cause problems.

Have you considered constructing a movable reflector panel for the fourth wall around the plant?

That box could make a decent cloning chamber in the future. Cloning is vary easy, cuts weeks off your veg time, no more fragile seedlings, an exact genetic copy of the mother plant.
Click to expand...
yeah all autos for now, and was thinking about some sort screen and dont know how to expalin so you understand it, so let me try
what I was thinking is putting like a shelf snung in the corner and coming out lest say 12-15in,and may be 17in high, high enough to put bucket on stand underneath, i would cut a strip down to centre about 2/3in wide big enough fot then plants stem to easily slid in an out of, that way when it comes to changing water etc, i can take lid off bucket and rest on the shelf to support plant, an swap buckets,#
did you understand that, yeah just looking at ways to make it easier going forward,
the cloning box not looked that far ahead yet, but yeah share your idea Im all ears,
so the screen thing i was thinking about was like a swing door, not sure of what size or what to cover it with, but yeah Im upto listening to new ideas as Im just going off what Ive read along the way, an what help you guys have given me, so yeah if theres any ideas flying about how to improve the grow room then fire away, as Im looking long term thats why Im here with you very nice people, so thanks guys your help as been great gutted things are at abit of a standstill, but I would rather be safe then sorry with Ph, so enjoy the wk and any advise please just say the more the merrier, the more you know the more you learn lol happy days
 
Didn't know if WW was photo or auto. Cloning is not really possible with autos. They have a preset veg age then flower and die. With autos you don't have to mess with light manipulation. No need to have separate veg and flower spaces.

I have only grown a few autos over the years and they were not not from those genetics. I can give you general info but no personal experience with that particular genetic plant. They give the all so helpful description of it being an XL plant. They do recommend a 3 gallon (11 liter) minimum pot so it should be 3 foot (1 meter tall). Make sure you leave enough space for the hanger, light, 33cm of open space, 1meter of plant and the res.

Don't forget the volume of your res bucket is not what is printed on it. The basket hangs down into the bucket. So an 11L bucket holds around half of that in nute volume. The bigger the res the more stable it will be. Running an under sized res throws PH and PPM all out of whack constantly.

I understand what you were describing. There is an old saying. Always aim for the KISS of perfection. Keep It Simple Stupid. The more complicated the you build it, the more points of failure you have and the more you are locked into one plan. I am constantly experimenting and building contraptions. I strongly encourage experimentation but on your first grow in a new room just stick to vanilla. You will already have plenty of details to iron out on the first few runs.

Another tool that is really useful is a small fountain pump and a long section of tubbing. Eliminates hauling and splashing water.
 
Sativa1970 said:
Didn't know if WW was photo or auto. Cloning is not really possible with autos. They have a preset veg age then flower and die. With autos you don't have to mess with light manipulation. No need to have separate veg and flower spaces.

I have only grown a few autos over the years and they were not not from those genetics. I can give you general info but no personal experience with that particular genetic plant. They give the all so helpful description of it being an XL plant. They do recommend a 3 gallon (11 liter) minimum pot so it should be 3 foot (1 meter tall). Make sure you leave enough space for the hanger, light, 33cm of open space, 1meter of plant and the res.

Don't forget the volume of your res bucket is not what is printed on it. The basket hangs down into the bucket. So an 11L bucket holds around half of that in nute volume. The bigger the res the more stable it will be. Running an under sized res throws PH and PPM all out of whack constantly.

I understand what you were describing. There is an old saying. Always aim for the KISS of perfection. Keep It Simple Stupid. The more complicated the you build it, the more points of failure you have and the more you are locked into one plan. I am constantly experimenting and building contraptions. I strongly encourage experimentation but on your first grow in a new room just stick to vanilla. You will already have plenty of details to iron out on the first few runs.

Another tool that is really useful is a small fountain pump and a long section of tubbing. Eliminates hauling and splashing water.
Click to expand...
yeah thanks for all the help as I will be trying to keep everything simple to start with, so I can get the basics dwn, and to a point were I actually know what Im doing lol, so just the 1 plant to start with, and yeah constantly thinking of ways to improve things, but that will all come in good time once I get some green fingers going, so yeah I will keep things simple, 1 step at a time
yeah ive been looking into small pumps looking ahead, put for now its not bad as my bathroom is just next door but yeah once I expand upto 4 plants will need summits then, so Ive taken that in and put in my book for future ref,
As I like to a plan of action knowing what Im doing, so if summits does go wrong and I can maybe work out what I did wrong, and fix it lol all sounds good in theory I know, but it wont be long now till its all put into practise,

But Ive gained so much advise and information off you guys its been great, and I hope I can grow a grow you guys are proud of, as its your info and help thats been guiding me along its been invaluable, and you have ALL been so nice, so this 1st grow is be dedicated to you all here @420,
happy growing guys and enjoy the wkend
 

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