Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

spasmodic said:
Hey Doc... I'm interested in using your kit, but I have a question. I can only run 1 plant at a time. I have a small 2x3x7.5 grow space I scrog in.

How would you recommend I manage the unused portion of soil? It would take over 2 years for me to use it all. If I made a half batch, would the soil be viable after a year? Maybe a 1/4 batch would be better for my needs?

Thanks for your input.
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Im doing what youre doing right now. I have one plant going. I made a half batch and am keeping the remainder in a rubbermaid 32gal bin with a cover. It will keep as long as you keep it in a cool place and add some clean water now and again. What ive also done is bought a second 32gal bin and what ill do is pour the whole of one bin into another after giving it a bit of water...kinda turn it over, if you will.
Ill be using the other half to grow some delicious veggies soon...all nutrient dense high brix food! Hope that helps :)
Oh, and youre making a great choice by going with the kit! Believe it :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thecanuck said:
Im doing what youre doing right now. I have one plant going. I made a half batch and am keeping the remainder in a rubbermaid 32gal bin with a cover. It will keep as long as you keep it in a cool place and add some clean water now and again. What ive also done is bought a second 32gal bin and what ill do is pour the whole of one bin into another after giving it a bit of water...kinda turn it over, if you will.
Ill be using the other half to grow some delicious veggies soon...all nutrient dense high brix food! Hope that helps :)
Oh, and youre making a great choice by going with the kit! Believe it :)
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Thanks for the info... I was pretty sure the soil would be fine for a year or so, but the "conditioner" is what gave me pause.

I've been lurking in the forums for over a year now studying and have finally decided to go HiBrix. I value quality over quantity. I only want enough for my SO and myself. One plant will be more than enough. Anymore than that, could invite real trouble. I'm happy to hear this style of growing will accommodate small grows such as ours. :high-five:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

spasmodic said:
Thanks for the info... I was pretty sure the soil would be fine for a year or so, but the "conditioner" is what gave me pause.

I've been lurking in the forums for over a year now studying and have finally decided to go HiBrix. I value quality over quantity. I only want enough for my SO and myself. One plant will be more than enough. Anymore than that, could invite real trouble. I'm happy to hear this style of growing will accommodate small grows such as ours. :high-five:
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I'd grow one plant in a 10 gallon pot. You could grow a cover crop on the remainder of the soil if it is going to sit more than a year. I'd recommend Zucchini. The soil is borderline high in K and the squash will help that.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
That's the main reason I don't use fabric pots. I just couldn't see how to keep from passing on pathogens. You could always sulfur burn the pots too, I suppose.

Anyways, the plastic pots don't give as much opportunity for mold as the fabrics.
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I am going to re-pot the ones that clearly have it in the fabric. I planned on burning with all 12 plants and pots that are in veg but then thought why? If I knew that burning the pots too would be 100% effective then sure I would just keep them in smarts and avoid the re-potting process. But at this point I am sick of this crap and want to safe rather than sorry.

Going to follow up with Eagle 20 after the burn since they are still in veg and flip them after that. Wish me luck.

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Any2cards said:
I am going to re-pot the ones that clearly have it in the fabric. I planned on burning with all 12 plants and pots that are in veg but then thought why? If I knew that burning the pots too would be 100% effective then sure I would just keep them in smarts and avoid the re-potting process. But at this point I am sick of this crap and want to safe rather than sorry.

Going to follow up with Eagle 20 after the burn since they are still in veg and flip them after that. Wish me luck.

Any2
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I don't advise you use Eagle 20 before or after the burn. It's basically an oil based spray....uses petroleum distillates like naptha to carry the active ingredient. It will mess up your leaves with the sulfur vape.

Just do an 8 hour vape and be done with it!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doctor...what does having double serrations on the leaves mean? Its probably nothing cuz my girl is a picture of health but inwas wondering nonetheless.
Thanks boss :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
I don't advise you use Eagle 20 before or after the burn. It's basically an oil based spray....uses petroleum distillates like naptha to carry the active ingredient. It will mess up your leaves with the sulfur vape.

Just do an 8 hour vape and be done with it!
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Sounds good Doc.....I will forego the Eagle 20 but is nice to have if I need it. I thought shotta did both but I will have to dig that up again.

Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Any2cards said:
Sounds good Doc.....I will forego the Eagle 20 but is nice to have if I need it. I thought shotta did both but I will have to dig that up again.

Peace,

Any2
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I do recall him doing both too.....but I don't remember the interval between them. I think you'll be happy with the sulfur vape.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Lucky I was on here. I did do eagle 20 in veg and the plants treated with eagle 20 made it at least 45 days before I exposed them to sulfur.

I will use eagle 20 in veg from time to time, but I will wait a good month at least before i would vape.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

shottafire said:
Lucky I was on here. I did do eagle 20 in veg and the plants treated with eagle 20 made it at least 45 days before I exposed them to sulfur.

I will use eagle 20 in veg from time to time, but I will wait a good month at least before i would vape.
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Thanks bro. I think that's a good, safe application as well. It's always regrettable to use a product like that and we only do it in the most extreme circumstance, in my case only to preserve genetics with the Eagle.

I'm sulfur vaping at 3 week intervals right now as an experiment to see what it does to taste. I'm doing a 4 hour burn.

Everything smells so fresh and clean after the sulfur vape is exhuasted from the room. The plants seem to like it with the humidity too.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

shottafire said:
Lucky I was on here. I did do eagle 20 in veg and the plants treated with eagle 20 made it at least 45 days before I exposed them to sulfur.

I will use eagle 20 in veg from time to time, but I will wait a good month at least before i would vape.
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Thanks shotta! I thought it was all in the same timeframe. I know some guys that say never take in a clone without some protocol and they swear by it. Usually a floramite dip and some eagle 20 and then and only then it goes in the veg room just in case they are infected. Ok so I am set to burn here any day pots, plants and all. 4 hour vape, 2 hours of darkness then lights on. I HATE PM!!!!!

Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, I ordered 4 of your kits and I just got the second box today. It didn't have instructions other than the root zone so I am wondering if the July 2013 directions are the newest.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

is there a best practice synchronization for soil/foliar action? Is it best to time drenches and sprays? (for example) Can you emphasize the benefits of a cationic drench by following up with pgr or tea. Is there a certain place in the foliar schedule where you wanna be hitting the soil with straight water?

appreciate any thoughts
thanks
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Cannabiscures said:
Hey Doc, I ordered 4 of your kits and I just got the second box today. It didn't have instructions other than the root zone so I am wondering if the July 2013 directions are the newest.
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Yep. Right now those are the newest. I'll post some pics of the new gear by the weekend, and hopefully get some new directions shortly after that.

Normally it wouldn't be a problem, but I've got a large harvest going on, and I've moved into a new office for my day job, which is a ridiculous amount of work, so I'm redlining it right now.

I'm staying healthy, sleeping well, eating well.....but I haven't been tired like this at the end of the day for a couple years.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

VonDankenhoek said:
is there a best practice synchronization for soil/foliar action? Is it best to time drenches and sprays? (for example) Can you emphasize the benefits of a cationic drench by following up with pgr or tea. Is there a certain place in the foliar schedule where you wanna be hitting the soil with straight water?

appreciate any thoughts
thanks
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Great questions, bro.

I don't know of any one best practice for exact timing of drenches and sprays, but there are definitely a few principles to follow.

I'll go ahead and use the new names for the kit items:

1. Growth Energy (formerly Energy) is just that. It favors growth, bulking of fruit and flowers, stems and leaves.
2. Tranplant, being an organic fertilizer, slightly favors seed and fruit production, compared to Growth Energy.
3. Cat Drench is Tranplant, without the nitrate added, with the addition of the ammonium type of N, and phosphates and sulfates. This drench highly favors reproductive growth, seeds, fruits and flowers.

Of the sprays in the kit, De-Stress (formerly Stress) is minimally growth oriented, while Brix moderately favors reproductive growth.

I do not recommend Bloomit, Amaze or PGR anymore, because Stress and Brix are perfectly mixed and are much easier and safer to use. Bloomit is simply too strong for tender indoor plants. All of these sprays work for High Brix, but they're designed for tractors and spraying rigs. De-Stress and Brix are purpose built for the smaller scale farmer and have all the technology applied to them for success in our situations.

So, if you're trying to bulk up your produce, you don't want to use Cat Drench....but you do want to use Growth Energy. Likewise, spraying with Bloomit would be at cross purposes with bulking as well.

If you're trying to establish a vigorous bloom during the second or 3rd week of 12/12, you wouldn't want to drench them with Growth Energy....you'd want to transition from Transplant to Cat Drench and then back to Growth Energy when all the buds are established.

If you load up your soil with organic matter, it will be oriented towards reproduction and you'll have weaker stems, less developed root hairs, and nice flowers. The more you've added to the soil, the less you can change anything, so spraying is pointless.

So, basically, all these drenches and sprays are notes on a keyboard. Understanding the basics of growing and applying these products in a sensible way puts us in the right key, so to speak. The notes and chords you choose for your music is unique to you, just as your plants are.

Subtle changes have huge results.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

That got me thinking of something ...

Do we want more calyxes, or bigger calyxes? How are trichs built on calyxes? When they swell, do the trichs spread with the plant tissue or do they grow more trichs on the extra tissue?

:hmmmm:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Graytail said:
That got me thinking of something ...

Do we want more calyxes, or bigger calyxes? How are trichs built on calyxes? When they swell, do the trichs spread with the plant tissue or do they grow more trichs on the extra tissue?

:hmmmm:
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Generally speaking, we want more and bigger calyxes....triches form all the time throughout the bloom cycle. If the plant remains vital and is in the right environment, triches will form and grow.

So, not to be a smart alec....but the answer to your questions is yes.
 
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