Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, quick question re the Instructions in your Sig. It states" "If germinating seeds, make the hole and apply Root Zone and deposit seed AFTER watering in step 5. water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot."

For the life of me I cannot find Step 5 anywhere. I did a search in the Q&A page as well as In the Lab, page 5. It goes from Step 4 to FAQs. Am I just blind, or is something missing? Thx.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

medmanmike said:
Doc, quick question re the Instructions in your Sig. It states" "If germinating seeds, make the hole and apply Root Zone and deposit seed AFTER watering in step 5. water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot."

For the life of me I cannot find Step 5 anywhere. I did a search in the Q&A page as well as In the Lab, page 5. It goes from Step 4 to FAQs. Am I just blind, or is something missing? Thx.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this. It helps me figure out how to write the instructions when I learn what areas people are hanging up on. You're not the only one to post this question. Thanks. I'll do my best to make it clear.

Step Two: Transplanting/germination

Using a starter pot ½ to 1 gallon in size....

If transplanting cuttings, skip step 4. For seed germination, do not skip step 4.

1. Fill with the soil from step one.
2. Make a hole large enough to accommodate the cutting
3. Coat inside of hole with “Root Zone” Be liberal, but don't run out till you've covered every plant. There should be ample amount in the kit.
4. If germinating seeds, make the hole and apply Root Zone and deposit seed AFTER watering in step 5.
5. water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot.
Click to expand...

The above instructions are for clones. If using clones you skip step 4. If you're planting a seed, water with transplant water via step 5: "water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot."

Then plant the seed with the root zone in the hole. The idea is to make a divet in pre-moistened soil so you don't float the seed away with a watering.

I could have made it really simple and said "Pre-water with transplant water, make a divet, apply Root Zone and deposit seed." When I do that my email volume goes way up with people asking questions about the best way to plant a seed, etc.

So, I attempted to use the directions to help a person who has never grown anything in their life before.....which makes it complicated.

There's a reason a profession exists for people who only write instructions......it's not as easy as it looks.

These products I use are designed for professional farmers/growers who grow acres of crops. A certain amount of knowledge is assumed when this is your target market.

Here on the forum we've got people growing in closets, basements, warehouses, and everything in between. Many have no gardening skills to speak of, let alone education and years of experience. So I try to write the directions so a total newb can be successfull immediately upon purchasing the kit.

A series of videos might be helpful....but there are pictures and tutorials on the "In the Lab" thread which will show you how to do this. Please read that thread!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

What part of the plant is used for taking a brix reading? Whatever part you eat if it is ripe. If it is not ripe take the most recent mature leaves that have had full sunlight for at least 2 hours. Ideally measurements should be taken at the same time of day as you compare throughout the growing season.
I remember seeing questions about this before.
Hope it helps :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thecanuck said:
What part of the plant is used for taking a brix reading? Whatever part you eat if it is ripe. If it is not ripe take the most recent mature leaves that have had full sunlight for at least 2 hours. Ideally measurements should be taken at the same time of day as you compare throughout the growing season.
I remember seeing questions about this before.
Hope it helps :)
Click to expand...


Yup. Consistency is the key.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Oh yeah....Curso and I have both tried to kill plants. No success so far.
Click to expand...

There's a lot of truth in this. I've literally tried to kill a couple plants with to much product. Nontoxic, well...At least in our soil, I'm sure I could successfully kill them in another soil or medium. In Kit soil, its pretty hard to kill a plant, period.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

I don't remember which of your journals dealt with mineralizing the soil, so I hope you don't mind me asking this one here.

I stumbled across this advertised in Mother Earth, have you ever heard of it? it is advertised as dino-mitemineralizer,com, but it takes you to this site
Home - Dino-Mite Plant Food & Minerals
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hash Hound said:
Doc,

I don't remember which of your journals dealt with mineralizing the soil, so I hope you don't mind me asking this one here.

I stumbled across this advertised in Mother Earth, have you ever heard of it? it is advertised as dino-mitemineralizer,com, but it takes you to this site
Home - Dino-Mite Plant Food & Minerals
Click to expand...

What's your question exactly? It looks like a neat product. It's not at all in the right ratio for high brix, but it probably helps a lot by adding minerals.

I prefer to add exactly what the soil needs based on scientific soil testing.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hash Hound said:
Doc,

I don't remember which of your journals dealt with mineralizing the soil, so I hope you don't mind me asking this one here.

I stumbled across this advertised in Mother Earth, have you ever heard of it? it is advertised as dino-mitemineralizer,com, but it takes you to this site
Home - Dino-Mite Plant Food & Minerals
Click to expand...

I just finished listening to Jon Frank..
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
What's your question exactly? It looks like a neat product. It's not at all in the right ratio for high brix, but it probably helps a lot by adding minerals.

I prefer to add exactly what the soil needs based on scientific soil testing.
Click to expand...

I wasn't meaning for high brix Doc. Like I mentioned I was asking for use in a mineralized soil as something like the azomite.

Sorry I was lazy and didn't look up your mineralized grow and ask it there.

My last batch has made me reeeeeal lazy. All 3 strains are a lot stonier than usual.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I saw some questions a few pages back, I figured I'd add my experience...I'm growing a single plant in a 5g smart pot and I am mixing 3ml of Energy/Cationic/Transplant per watering, that goes into 1 gallon of water. If I don't use it all, I just dump it, but that's my formula for a single plant garden.

Doc, that sound right to you? This was in reference to the guy running out of Transplant versus Energy...just sharing my experience. Currently going strong on week 16 of a 20+ week sativa that way.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Thanks for posting this. It helps me figure out how to write the instructions when I learn what areas people are hanging up on. You're not the only one to post this question. Thanks. I'll do my best to make it clear.



The above instructions are for clones. If using clones you skip step 4. If you're planting a seed, water with transplant water via step 5: "water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz "Transplant" per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot."

Then plant the seed with the root zone in the hole. The idea is to make a divet in pre-moistened soil so you don't float the seed away with a watering.

I could have made it really simple and said "Pre-water with transplant water, make a divet, apply Root Zone and deposit seed." When I do that my email volume goes way up with people asking questions about the best way to plant a seed, etc.

So, I attempted to use the directions to help a person who has never grown anything in their life before.....which makes it complicated.

There's a reason a profession exists for people who only write instructions......it's not as easy as it looks.

These products I use are designed for professional farmers/growers who grow acres of crops. A certain amount of knowledge is assumed when this is your target market.

Here on the forum we've got people growing in closets, basements, warehouses, and everything in between. Many have no gardening skills to speak of, let alone education and years of experience. So I try to write the directions so a total newb can be successfull immediately upon purchasing the kit.

A series of videos might be helpful....but there are pictures and tutorials on the "In the Lab" thread which will show you how to do this. Please read that thread!
Click to expand...

Doc thanks for the explanation. I "see" it now. My confusion with step 5 was that it was one of several "steps" 1 - 5 within the larger section i.e. Step Two: Transplanting/germination , rather than an independent section.

You are right: people get paid good money to write technical manuals, instructions, etc. I did a fair amount of technical writing in my career so I can relate. A quick suggestion would be to keep the major sections as Step 1, Step 2, Step 3, etc. and then use either a, b, c, ... for the sub directions within the larger step. Or, you could use 1a, 1b, 1c and so forth, to further identify/locate the proper step (with a lower s).

If you would be interested, I would be willing to review this from a technical writing perspective and offer further suggestions. PM me off line if your interested to discuss further.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

lowandslow said:
I saw some questions a few pages back, I figured I'd add my experience...I'm growing a single plant in a 5g smart pot and I am mixing 3ml of Energy/Cationic/Transplant per watering, that goes into 1 gallon of water. If I don't use it all, I just dump it, but that's my formula for a single plant garden.

Doc, that sound right to you? This was in reference to the guy running out of Transplant versus Energy...just sharing my experience. Currently going strong on week 16 of a 20+ week sativa that way.
Click to expand...

So you're feeding 3ml each of those per watering? Or 1ml each?

I wouldn't recommend mixing Energy and Cat Drench. That takes away the benefit each provide. Mixing with transplant is OK....both products have fishy ferts in 'em....just stay away from mixing Energy and Cat Drench.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
So you're feeding 3ml each of those per watering? Or 1ml each?

I wouldn't recommend mixing Energy and Cat Drench. That takes away the benefit each provide. Mixing with transplant is OK....both products have fishy ferts in 'em....just stay away from mixing Energy and Cat Drench.
Click to expand...

I think he means either energy or transplant or cat drench.

I'm coming up on a feeding for my crazy blue hammer. I gave plain water last three times, and feel like she is ready for both some transplant and energy. My plan is to feed this one plant 3ml energy and 2ml transplant. Tried it a few times with he syntax and seemed to go well, this time will be almost half that strength. More and more it seems like 'just barely enough' works best...
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
I think he means either energy or transplant or cat drench.

I'm coming up on a feeding for my crazy blue hammer. I gave plain water last three times, and feel like she is ready for both some transplant and energy. My plan is to feed this one plant 3ml energy and 2ml transplant. Tried it a few times with he syntax and seemed to go well, this time will be almost half that strength. More and more it seems like 'just barely enough' works best...
Click to expand...

200 ergs is where the soil should be. My supersoil would test out at 2000 ergs....or higher.

Obviously, the plants can adapt to a wide range of situations, but they grow best at 200 ergs....just barely enough.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
I guess my link to HB newsletter wasnt ok since It was removed or moved?
Click to expand...

Yep. They are in a non-legal state and get very worried about certain things. Calcium Nitrate is also used in bombs...combine that with something else that is a federal crime and.....you get the picture.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hello Brixters,

Been away for a bit tending to other things but I wanted to chime in on PM/smart pots and the like. Off topic of what is being discussed at the moment but wanted to share a few things.

Unfortunately I was hit with the PM monster a while back, not a ton but a small showing on the bottoms near the end of the cycle. Did my clean up etc and was using smarts. I love the smart pots actually and washed them in bleach water, gentle cycle and hot water. I did not sulphur burn them(might have been a good idea) when I burned the room but figured they should be good to re-use. I noticed the plants losing vigor, some leaf twisting so I pulled them out to take a closer look when I saw what looks like a mildew/mold on the outside of the pot. Now I have re introduced this in the flower room and have to prepare another burn. 12 plants total was going to veg them under hps for a week and flip. Environment has been steady 80-65 temps and rh 55 range. My dehuey did fill up when I was sick and it was high for a day maybe 2 peaking at 75. Could have easily kicked it all off.

Point of all this is that while I like the concepts of the smarts I will be changing to 7gal plastics or air pots as I think it is a better fit with foliars and if you do have an outbreak easier to disinfect and clean for re-use. So now I am thinking of repotting the 6 now but the other 6 are in new smarts but not showing any signs. Going to burn the room with the vegging plants inside and introduce the eagle but it just really goes against my organic views and just does not feel right.

Anyway.....my 2 cents on smarts.
PM_002.jpg

PM_005.jpg

PM_007.jpg
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

That's the main reason I don't use fabric pots. I just couldn't see how to keep from passing on pathogens. You could always sulfur burn the pots too, I suppose.

Anyways, the plastic pots don't give as much opportunity for mold as the fabrics.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc... I'm interested in using your kit, but I have a question. I can only run 1 plant at a time. I have a small 2x3x7.5 grow space I scrog in.

How would you recommend I manage the unused portion of soil? It would take over 2 years for me to use it all. If I made a half batch, would the soil be viable after a year? Maybe a 1/4 batch would be better for my needs?

Thanks for your input.
 
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