Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hi doc, quick question. Is 35lbs of worm casting ok for the soil mixture. That's the size of bag it came in.

Ha I saw this and went to check my bag of EWC I used...low and behold I must have been smoking the reefer because it was a 30# bag and it's empty. HA. Oh well next time i need to mix first, ganja after. LOL. I doubt there will be much of a problem..maybe a little longer between water/feeds.

Care to point out the consequences of my folly doc?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ha I saw this and went to check my bag of EWC I used...low and behold I must have been smoking the reefer because it was a 30# bag and it's empty. HA. Oh well next time i need to mix first, ganja after. LOL. I doubt there will be much of a problem..maybe a little longer between water/feeds.

Care to point out the consequences of my folly doc?

There will be no problem using anywhere from 20 to 40 pounds of castings. In fact, the lab doesn't call for EWC, that's my addition. The main thing with the EWC is that there's no K.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I need to find out about the cricket shit. My dad swears by it. He said alot of folks are using it. Just need to find out about NPK
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

there is a frass analysis posted at ic. search "insect frass independent analysis". it shows 2.5% K.

one of the posters there has some fine flowers grown w frass.

No doubt there are extraordinary gardens that use frass. However, I have a couple questions regarding it, assuming the soil is low enough in K to use it:

1. What did the insects eat? GMO plant material???? I dunno.
2. What else is in the frass in the way of metals?

I love chicken manure....but I won't use it anymore because they're mostly being fed GMO corn and crap. Same deal with steer manure.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ya good points Doc. I'll check w my source and ask if they keep a record of the insects grub.


would you have the same concerns about ewc? seems like soy ink and corn meal products would be suspect.

Here's a reply from the folks who supplied my frass: "Hi,Thanks for your question. Our insects' primary diet consists of wheat bran and is supplemented with a variety of produce grown for human consumption. During the summer months we feed the insects carrots, kale, potatoes, pumpkins, and squash grown on our family farm and a variety of leftover fruit and veggies scraps literally from our own kitchen. During fall and winter we supplement with grocery store purchased carrots and potatoes. We try to use organic produce when possible since any pesticides would obviously kill our insects. No GMO products are used and we do not feed our insects any corn or corn products.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ya good points Doc. I'll check w my source and ask if they keep a record of the insects grub.


would you have the same concerns about ewc? seems like soy ink and corn meal products would be suspect.

Here's a reply from the folks who supplied my frass: "Hi,Thanks for your question. Our insects' primary diet consists of wheat bran and is supplemented with a variety of produce grown for human consumption. During the summer months we feed the insects carrots, kale, potatoes, pumpkins, and squash grown on our family farm and a variety of leftover fruit and veggies scraps literally from our own kitchen. During fall and winter we supplement with grocery store purchased carrots and potatoes. We try to use organic produce when possible since any pesticides would obviously kill our insects. No GMO products are used and we do not feed our insects any corn or corn products.

This is amazing. What a great company!

And yes, I have the same concerns with EWC.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc. Don't usually post of forums and such, but your work is truly fascinating. Have you experimented with this method and breeding at all? Is this any correlation between male/female ratios? Would love to buy a kit but haven't hit the PM thresh-hold.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc,

I have some plants infected with PM. Not bad but there and it is in 1st run soil. Going to clean with bleach water and add some fans for the next go around. Can I still move forward to the 2nd run with soil that hosted PM plants? I was just wondering as PM is systemic in nature but wondered what effects would come about re-cooking the soil for a 2nd run.

Thanks,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

not a brix question, but a friend is using supersoil and all the plants were about the healthiest he has done and I have seen. Not a bad yellow or spotted leaf the whole grow. Lush healthy green and two of the plants are nice and shiny.

Now about 7 wks in flower and his one WW plant is showing just a few bad leaf this week which starts yellow spots then goes brown spots. Nothing to bad.

However the Sage n Sour is showing bit more of the same, but still not too alarming bad. The others, DarkStar and Cheese are still vibrant shiny green.

Could it be strains that have different feeding requirements? or low end of acceptable temps?

The environment has been so-so this grow. tough keeping the room warm. Outside temp -9 last week and going down to 2 this weekend. Ranging like 55ish lights out and about 68-72 light on mid plant level, 75-78 canopy. Could the temps be hindering nute absorption at the lower end of acceptability for growing? It's not hurting the 2 lush ones.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I am thinking of using the bug and pest on my other plants is that alright. the bugs don't really like the kit plants like you say doc.

No problem with that. However, keep in mind that you can't run the sulfur vaporizer until 21 days after you spray Bud and Pest.

I'm glad the bugs are staying away from the brixie gals, that means you're doing it right.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc. Don't usually post of forums and such, but your work is truly fascinating. Have you experimented with this method and breeding at all? Is this any correlation between male/female ratios? Would love to buy a kit but haven't hit the PM threshhold.

I haven't done much breeding personally, but I have a friend who focuses on it and the high brix seeds are gorgeous. I've got pictures of some in my photo albums somewhere. I haven't noticed any increase in females. Sex is determined in the first 72 hours from germination, from what I've learned. The environment plays the most important role.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc,

I have some plants infected with PM. Not bad but there and it is in 1st run soil. Going to clean with bleach water and add some fans for the next go around. Can I still move forward to the 2nd run with soil that hosted PM plants? I was just wondering as PM is systemic in nature but wondered what effects would come about re-cooking the soil for a 2nd run.

Thanks,

Any2
Run a sulfur vaporizer/burner and be done with it. You won't have to look over your shoulder or get anxious when you look at your plants.....just takes 4-6 hours, 100% humidity, fans and vents OFF, AC on.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

not a brix question, but a friend is using supersoil and all the plants were about the healthiest he has done and I have seen. Not a bad yellow or spotted leaf the whole grow. Lush healthy green and two of the plants are nice and shiny.

Now about 7 wks in flower and his one WW plant is showing just a few bad leaf this week which starts yellow spots then goes brown spots. Nothing to bad.

However the Sage n Sour is showing bit more of the same, but still not too alarming bad. The others, DarkStar and Cheese are still vibrant shiny green.

Could it be strains that have different feeding requirements? or low end of acceptable temps?

The environment has been so-so this grow. tough keeping the room warm. Outside temp -9 last week and going down to 2 this weekend. Ranging like 55ish lights out and about 68-72 light on mid plant level, 75-78 canopy. Could the temps be hindering nute absorption at the lower end of acceptability for growing? It's not hurting the 2 lush ones.

Is he feeding anything

When I was running supersoil, I noticed that the roots often didn't completely colonize the lower 1/4 of the pot. The soil was just too hot for the roots. So....as bloom progresses and the plants demand all kinds of nutrition in order to support the bloom, often times the roots just can't keep up.

Or....it could be salt buildup....or he could be using lots of pH down......or maybe they need some Calcium Nitrate? See if you can diagnose it using those types of possibilities and work backwards.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

he mostly giving them straight water, and every other watering since 12/12 he gives molasses and very light on some micro stuff

and one time at about 2 weeks in bloom he got a gallon of premixed tea from the hydro store and mixed it in with 5 gal water. and once at 4 weeks a light organic tea.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

he mostly giving them straight water, and every other watering since 12/12 he gives molasses and very light on some micro stuff

and one time at about 2 weeks in bloom he got a gallon of premixed tea from the hydro store and mixed it in with 5 gal water. and once at 4 weeks a light organic tea.

It's so hard to say for sure, but my first guess at it would be the soil was too hot and the roots couldn't form.
 
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