Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

7 weeks in a #1

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nismo12 said:
7 weeks in a #1

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Governmentchz said:
That's what mine looked like this morning when I transplanted. :cool:
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Yep. Mine are also like that. It seems we are pretty much doing the same things.

I've always had an aversion to those soft pots for some reason. A nice root ball is so much easier to work with and hard sided pots deliver it well.
 
I also like hard pots better, especially for cooler weather. Sorry this is off-topic, but to you HPS growers can you recommend a good bulb with a really good spectrum? Currently using an HPS for the first time and I kind of want to replace the bulb with something better(not sure if this one is even bad, but I know it's old). Also, noticing that HPS isn't putting out as much trichrome production as my platinum 600.
 
TheBoogyman said:
I also like hard pots better, especially for cooler weather. Sorry this is off-topic, but to you HPS growers can you recommend a good bulb with a really good spectrum? Currently using an HPS for the first time and I kind of want to replace the bulb with something better(not sure if this one is even bad, but I know it's old). Also, noticing that HPS isn't putting out as much trichrome production as my platinum 600.
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Doc has a journal(in his signature) where he used/uses(?) Gravitas DE(double ended) HPS grow lights..
I think he(most might agree :rofl:) did pretty decent with them. :Namaste:
 
TheBoogyman said:
I also like hard pots better, especially for cooler weather. Sorry this is off-topic, but to you HPS growers can you recommend a good bulb with a really good spectrum? Currently using an HPS for the first time and I kind of want to replace the bulb with something better(not sure if this one is even bad, but I know it's old). Also, noticing that HPS isn't putting out as much trichrome production as my platinum 600.
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Eye Hortilux is one of the best for sure. I've also used Digilux. Both work well.
 
Does anyone have any advice vis a vis double ended bulbs? There seem to be ones for 40 and ones for 90 bucks, i'm curious if the expensive ones are worth it. I've got the OG Philips (I think).

I hear a pretty wide range of opinions on how long to use bulbs. Thoughts?

For what its worth, i'm guessing the other post a few up is about single ended 1k hps'es since there are alot more options there.

go!
 
My fixture isn't double ended so I have to get a normal bulb. Thanks for the recommendations, doc.

Also another question guys, do you think anything bad would happen if i changed my lighting schedule for my veg plants from 16/8 to 18/6? I've got 4 plants of various ages that have been under 16/8 since birth.
 
Doc Bud said:
Eye Hortilux is one of the best for sure. I've also used Digilux. Both work well.
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OMG...have you guys tried the PlantMax 2000 k? I'm telling you if you haven't you must! It cost $34.00 for a 1000 watt. It out performed all those lights. I do mostly led grows but the PlantMax has a space in the garden.
 
TheBoogyman said:
I also like hard pots better, especially for cooler weather. Sorry this is off-topic, but to you HPS growers can you recommend a good bulb with a really good spectrum? Currently using an HPS for the first time and I kind of want to replace the bulb with something better(not sure if this one is even bad, but I know it's old). Also, noticing that HPS isn't putting out as much trichrome production as my platinum 600.
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We have the 600w hortilux eye. Does good from what I can tell.

The trichome production does really well with 660nm being the majority of the red spectrum. LED has a leg up on that right now I believe. :thumb:
 
I have a quick question for Doc et al regarding use of "mosquito dunk water". Somehow I've gotten a few tiny black gnats in my room. They HAD to come in via either the promix or EWC as I feel I do a pretty good job keeping my area clean and isolated. There aren't many, but it's still disconcerting to go in to feed/water and see even one of those little bastards flitting about. I damned near snapped a plant and a leg trying to extricate the one I saw yesterday.

For several reasons (primarily living in a sub-tropical zone) I keep the dunks handy and have used them in my winterized pool, fish pond and other various containers in my neighbor's yard that they refuse to turn over come spring time. As I recall, these can be used to treat some water to rid the grow of gnats and would like to get opinions on best methodology (i.e. how much water and how long to soak a dunk?).

I'm doing upcanning/transplanting this morning and would like to go ahead and treat the pots and bins I have in there.

Thanks

p.s. I've also thought about a light application of food grade diatomaceous earth as well so if any have experience with that please chime in.
 
Governmentchz said:
I have a quick question for Doc et al regarding use of "mosquito dunk water". Somehow I've gotten a few tiny black gnats in my room. They HAD to come in via either the promix or EWC as I feel I do a pretty good job keeping my area clean and isolated. There aren't many, but it's still disconcerting to go in to feed/water and see even one of those little bastards flitting about. I damned near snapped a plant and a leg trying to extricate the one I saw yesterday.

For several reasons (primarily living in a sub-tropical zone) I keep the dunks handy and have used them in my winterized pool, fish pond and other various containers in my neighbor's yard that they refuse to turn over come spring time. As I recall, these can be used to treat some water to rid the grow of gnats and would like to get opinions on best methodology (i.e. how much water and how long to soak a dunk?).

I'm doing upcanning/transplanting this morning and would like to go ahead and treat the pots and bins I have in there.

Thanks

p.s. I've also thought about a light application of food grade diatomaceous earth as well so if any have experience with that please chime in.
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govt..I too have some flying thingies since applying EWC or Promix on my fig tree and Amaryllis'sssss..
The mosquito dunk can be crumbled and then applied to soil.
and
Some folks have soaked 1 in 5 gallons over night and fed the plants the water 2 x in a row. Worked well
You can dry it out and reuse it I think.

Its a bacteria that kills gnat and mosquito and maybe other larvae..
 
Governmentchz said:
I have a quick question for Doc et al regarding use of "mosquito dunk water". Somehow I've gotten a few tiny black gnats in my room. They HAD to come in via either the promix or EWC as I feel I do a pretty good job keeping my area clean and isolated. There aren't many, but it's still disconcerting to go in to feed/water and see even one of those little bastards flitting about. I damned near snapped a plant and a leg trying to extricate the one I saw yesterday.

For several reasons (primarily living in a sub-tropical zone) I keep the dunks handy and have used them in my winterized pool, fish pond and other various containers in my neighbor's yard that they refuse to turn over come spring time. As I recall, these can be used to treat some water to rid the grow of gnats and would like to get opinions on best methodology (i.e. how much water and how long to soak a dunk?).

I'm doing upcanning/transplanting this morning and would like to go ahead and treat the pots and bins I have in there.

Thanks

p.s. I've also thought about a light application of food grade diatomaceous earth as well so if any have experience with that please chime in.
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The DE doesn't work very well and it can be very high in potassium....

I put a mosquito dunk in the main water tank. I have no gnats of any kind, although i do have mites who are keeping a humble, low profile lately.
 
Doc Bud said:
Yep. Mine are also like that. It seems we are pretty much doing the same things.

I've always had an aversion to those soft pots for some reason. A nice root ball is so much easier to work with and hard sided pots deliver it well.
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Just ordered new cans 1's and 7's
I now have a theory on why they are not good for high brix could all be BS but I will see in a cycle
only thing I am going to change is cans

I see people have great success with the fabric cans not sure how many are using the kit
I will pay closer attention from this point forward but I have been trying to duplicate what you do Doc
And the only real difference is those fabric cans

Thanks everyone for the help
:Namaste:
 
I've been going from plastic #1's to 7gal or 10gal softies. 7's work well for a 6 week veg. Longer veg I go for the 10's. This round, I put 2 smaller plants in one 10gal and I think I'll be fine with it.
 
I was in love with my 2 gal smart pots when I first got them, but I was overwatering then and they compensated for that.

Now that I'm letting them dry out more I'm running into problem. Early in veg I get white tips poking through, but when plants are large enough to flower (my old grow was all 2 gal) or upcan the roots have disappeared from outer edge of dirt ball. I think it's because the sides dry out so fast in 2 gal pots that roots start pruning themselves further in. (Could also be I'm pushing the drying out too far.)

Of the 8 plants I have in kit soil, 7 went from 2 gal to 6 gal, 1 was late substitute that went from 1 gal hard pot to 6 gal. That last one has caught up to the others. Losing roots from the outer 1/4-1/2 inch of soil means root ball of 2 gal plants weren't much bigger if at all than 1 gal plant.

That doesn't seem to be problem for my largest plants in the 6 gal pots. Either the larger mass of soil keep moisture flowing to edges, or giving up outer 1/4 inch doesn't impact 6 gal as much as 2 gal.

Lesson for me is to get plants into larger pots as soon as possible. I will probably go back to #1 cans for early veg, because as Doc says, more manageable root ball in hard pot.
 
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