Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
I have no idea what might be causing that. Only those plants and not others?
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Well, the little rust spots have been somewhat consistent and manifest in a way that leads me to believe it's uv damage from the lights. I have a 'beta' set of these lights that had an experimental spectrum and I think it went a little overboard on the uv. Just speculation, but is my thoughts on that. The heavy leaf damage I've shown here is a one-off which is why I'm confounded a bit. I think I cooked the soil a little hot and plan on cutting in some fresh promix at about 3:1 to that bin of soil when I upcan to final pots this weekend.

KingstonRabbi said:
Observation: I see damage at 3 node levels. 1 leaf below worst leaf is less damaged. 1 leaf above is only affected on tips. This suggests to me that damage occurred in single instance when worst leaf was fully open at top and next leaf was just opening. I'm guessing necrosis took a while after damage to appear. Mild heat damage will appear that way. Leaf section dies slowly and turns black due to enzyme activity. Whatever the cause it appears to be over.
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Thanks, I think it's mostly over too. Hoping so.
 
Kinston, I have been experiencing some WTF ishness with my leaves as well....not overly concerned but curious, none the less...I am in Michigan so have extreme temp fluxing going on that I have to account for in the different seasons...am wondering if Doc's new product called something something X10 is what I should try....

Doc, that first pic of Tangie tells me she should be a runway model....Icemud favors that strain, perhaps you 2 are on to something in high brix.....I have taken notice.....
 
Governmentchz said:
Shawnee, the product you're referring to is WayAhead 10x and is primarily for Mg needs. I like it and use it in all my foliars.
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Well, alrighty then...I'll order me some...thanks Gov :thanks:
 
Shawnee said:
Kinston, I have been experiencing some WTF ishness with my leaves as well....not overly concerned but curious, none the less...I am in Michigan so have extreme temp fluxing going on that I have to account for in the different seasons...am wondering if Doc's new product called something something X10 is what I should try....

Doc, that first pic of Tangie tells me she should be a runway model....Icemud favors that strain, perhaps you 2 are on to something in high brix.....I have taken notice.....
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Wayahead 10x. It's a micronutrient foliar spray and is especially useful for the OG types. I don't use it on the plants that grow well normally.
 
10-4 Doc, I need to focus on my environment...I get it....same old lesson that I just can't nail down....what is that sweet spot...I'll die tryin'...
 
Shawnee said:
10-4 Doc, I need to focus on my environment...I get it....same old lesson that I just can't nail down....what is that sweet spot...I'll die tryin'...
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The Sweet Spot....when the soil is just right, feeding is perfect, plants are bright green, strong stems, perky and shiny.

I've found that warmer and more humid days varied with cooler, dryer days and "normal" days are a good way to stay in the sweet spot. In early bloom, I prefer to start with "normal" days and when stretch is about done I go warmer and about 60% rH. I'll do this until trichomes start to form, and vary between normal and warm until pistils start to recede. At that point, I'll start with cooler, dryer days alternating with normal.

Finish with cool, dry nights and days for max resin. 66-68 night. 45% rH. 75-77 day, 50% rH.

Think about it, and pay close attention to what happens when you vary temps. Sometimes, everything clicks just right. I feel like I got that on the Skywalker this round.

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Re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, beautiful girls you have there! I like how you allow for cooler temps at night. We have fresh air from the Gh being passively pulled into the room by the exhausts. Our Gr does get cooler at night. Maybe we are well on our way to that sweet spot! Woo!

We planted some veggies and herbs in brix soil.l, and that got me thinking. The farmers usually alternate crops each year. The reason for that is the corn leaves something behind the beans can use, and the beans do the same.

Can we alternate crops with the brix soil to make it go further than growing only mj each run?

Also, would it be ok for rosemary to be planted with the brix girls to help control mites?
 
Re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Canna Montana said:
Hey Doc, beautiful girls you have there! I like how you allow for cooler temps at night. We have fresh air from the Gh being passively pulled into the room by the exhausts. Our Gr does get cooler at night. Maybe we are well on our way to that sweet spot! Woo!

We planted some veggies and herbs in brix soil.l, and that got me thinking. The farmers usually alternate crops each year. The reason for that is the corn leaves something behind the beans can use, and the beans do the same.

Can we alternate crops with the brix soil to make it go further than growing only mj each run?

Also, would it be ok for rosemary to be planted with the brix girls to help control mites?
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With High Brix, it's best to keep crops separated, IE reproductive crops separate from leafy greens, separate from tubers, etc.

The foliar sprays are different too. With the exception of carrots, do NOT use Brix on root veggies. Leafy greens should never get Brix, but should only get Qualify and another product similar to DeStress (DeStress will also work).

Due to soil testing and amendments, the crop rotation thing isn't really necessary.

What does work very, very well is a cover crop. Clover, Fava beans....stuff like that.
 
Re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
With High Brix, it's best to keep crops separated, IE reproductive crops separate from leafy greens, separate from tubers, etc.

The foliar sprays are different too. With the exception of carrots, do NOT use Brix on root veggies. Leafy greens should never get Brix, but should only get Qualify and another product similar to DeStress (DeStress will also work).

Due to soil testing and amendments, the crop rotation thing isn't really necessary.

What does work very, very well is a cover crop. Clover, Fava beans....stuff like that.
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Does basil fall into the leafy green category? I've got Sweet, Thai and lemon varieties all growing in kit soil.


 
Re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Morglie said:
Does basil fall into the leafy green category? I've got Sweet, Thai and lemon varieties all growing in kit soil.


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Yep! The proper foliar will help keep it from bolting too.
 
Doc I accidentally posted this in the Eye Candy thread and thanks to DrZig bringing it to my attention, I am re-posting here.

my NL is 4+ weeks in flowering and seems to be fading a bit as expected for a 2 gl pot

but, since I am still going to use more of the 7th run soil for the next few plants I did one of those simple garden soil tests

The results were:

soil ph looked like right around the 6.5 range

the nitrogen was medium, the phosphorus was low/medium, and the potassium was high.

not sure what all that means with brix soil.
If I remember those were similar results I got a few runs ago when I tested. And the product was great.

I haven't added any kit amendment the last few grows, but I have added some minerals and light dose of powdered nutes.

anything I should add to get the phosphorus up a bit? Or leave it alone and see how they do in slightly bigger pots? maybe 6 runs is the limit? I hope not.

MG30_NL_bud_78_fade.JPG
 
:popcorn:
Hash Hound said:
Doc I accidentally posted this in the Eye Candy thread and thanks to DrZig bringing it to my attention, I am re-posting here.

my NL is 4+ weeks in flowering and seems to be fading a bit as expected for a 2 gl pot

but, since I am still going to use more of the 7th run soil for the next few plants I did one of those simple garden soil tests

The results were:

soil ph looked like right around the 6.5 range

the nitrogen was medium, the phosphorus was low/medium, and the potassium was high.

not sure what all that means with brix soil.
If I remember those were similar results I got a few runs ago when I tested. And the product was great.

I haven't added any kit amendment the last few grows, but I have added some minerals and light dose of powdered nutes.

anything I should add to get the phosphorus up a bit? Or leave it alone and see how they do in slightly bigger pots? maybe 6 runs is the limit? I hope not.
Click to expand...

:popcorn: (crunch, munch, etc.)
 
Gaffle said:
:popcorn:

:popcorn: (crunch, munch, etc.)
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I don't know what to tell you Hashhound. You're even out past Ziggy territory. Also, those garden testers use a strong acid and don't always reflect what's available via microbial/myco action.

The high potassium ain't good. You need to recharge the soil at a minimum and get larger pots.

Some people are cutting 4th run soil with 1/4 washed coco!!! I theorize that this helps with some of the salts that buildup in any soil with multiple runs. You might try that?


Also, for feedings you must do full submersion of the rootball in those silly 2 gal pots.
 
Hello everyone,getting ready to crack some dynasty birds of paradise seeds in my first soil kit and wondering if anyone has advice for obtaining maximum female ratio using kit? I plan to keep 1 gallon pot moist the first 4 weeks rather than allow soil to dry, air humid and cool, t-5 lights, air circulation and filtered air in with power exhaust. Instructions seem to vary a bit starting in solos or 1 gallon pots and the use of trans at 1/4 strength . Also wondering if anyone see's any difference in stretch in veg compared to say coco. I have 7 foot hgt in tent and considering plan B ; start and mom in automated drip coco and take cuts and flower in kit soil.
 
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