Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

[Doc Bud]

Got a question Doc

on day 30 I did a super drench because the soil energy went flat.

4 OZ Transplant
40 ML Tea

6 TBSP Epsom Salts (15-20 Gallon pot)

Since then, she has had a plain watering, Destress and Brix

Today is day 43

I noticed yesterday, the leaves look to be curling up, browning at the edges. Is there anything else I should be doing? Temps are pretty stable around 76F day and 68F night. Humidity 48-55% due to the exhaust cycling.

She's due for a Growth Energy feeding in a couple days.

Thank You

It looks great! It's not uncommon or abnormal for fans to yellow and drop off in mid=bloom. Keep the soil slightly moist between drenches and switch to mostly Growth Energy for the win!

 

[Doc Bud]

Hey doc bud, I am sorry if this is the wrong place for this question. I purchased an led fixture as I said ( and was informed i can't name them on this site) and since you have used this particular brand that start with P l a t i n u... Anyway, my question is, did you notice during lights off the fixture still has a couple of leds on really dim? If so, what is the point off this? Simulating moon light? I also emailed the company and am waiting on a reply. Thanks!!

How long do they stay lit like that? I wouldnt worry about it if it was just a few minutes, but if it's all dark cycle, sumpin's wrong. I'd look to the timer first.

Have you tried unplugging the lights and see what happens?

 

[dajerm119]

How long do they stay lit like that? I wouldnt worry about it if it was just a few minutes, but if it's all dark cycle, sumpin's wrong. I'd look to the timer first.

Have you tried unplugging the lights and see what happens?

Yes sir, I actually just flipped both switches to off and they went out. I was curious just how dark it was in there, it was 4 hours after the lights went off when I checked and it was on like that. I'm going to check the timer first thing when I get home. The white widow is doing awesome! Stretching and setting buds like it's supposed to so it doesn't seem stressed out. But it still needs to be fixed. Thanks for your help!

 

[Hash Hound]

If I am not mistaken, You should also check the wiring to make sure the hot and neutral are on the right side of the receptacle.

If they are crossed, your timer is probably just breaking the neutral and not the hot.
This would allow a hot wire with available voltage to still be inside the light.
Then when you turn the light switches off, this is breaking the hot wire

They sell little testers under $5 you plug in and they glow yellow or red to show you if your receptacle is wired properly.

 

[dajerm119]

If I am not mistaken, You should also check the wiring to make sure the hot and neutral are on the right side of the receptacle.

If they are crossed, your timer is probably just breaking the neutral and not the hot.
This would allow a hot wire with available voltage to still be inside the light.
Then when you turn the light switches off, this is breaking the hot wire

They sell little testers under $5 you plug in and they glow yellow or red to show you if your receptacle is wired properly.

Thanks Hash Hound! Ill be sure to check that as well!

 

[dajerm119]

Ok, it seems the timer i bought about 4 months ago from a local big box was causing the issue. I tested it with my multi but I guess it isn't enough leeching through to show. Anyway, I swapped it out with the other one I have and it works great. When it goes off the whole panel goes dark, plug the other back in and 3-4 lets on either side stay lit very very dimly. So I guess I will use this one for now but I'll need to get something more reliable, I don't want to have to poke my head in everyday after lights out just to make sure that damn panel isn't on a bit. I guess it was a non-issue with the HPS because it takes way more power to cycle up. Thank you all for your help and suggestions, so awesome to learn from you guys! I'm sure I would've eventually figured it out but thanks to your help I fixed it ASAP. Thanks Again!!

 

[masonman]

Ok, it seems the timer i bought about 4 months ago from a local big box was causing the issue. I tested it with my multi but I guess it isn't enough leeching through to show. Anyway, I swapped it out with the other one I have and it works great. When it goes off the whole panel goes dark, plug the other back in and 3-4 lets on either side stay lit very very dimly. So I guess I will use this one for now but I'll need to get something more reliable, I don't want to have to poke my head in everyday after lights out just to make sure that damn panel isn't on a bit. I guess it was a non-issue with the HPS because it takes way more power to cycle up. Thank you all for your help and suggestions, so awesome to learn from you guys! I'm sure I would've eventually figured it out but thanks to your help I fixed it ASAP. Thanks Again!!

I use those big metal Intermatic timers Shiggity posted. They work great and last a long time. I've used them for my pool pump. That's where I got the idea to use them for my lighting. I found a used one at the flea market for $3.00. Was missing the on/off tabs. I already had extras, but bLowes sells the for $2. Hot wired it to a lamp cord and tested its accuracy for a week. Was spot on!!! Went into my veg cabinet. Used a brand new one for the flower cabinet.

Yes, please check neutral and load wires. Switching the neutral is extremely dangerous. You could very easily become the ground and complete the circuit when switched off.

 

[GoldenEagle]

I'm actually afraid of GG. STuff is so damn strong, I wander around aimlessly after a few hits.

If you add UltraViolet A / B radiation to lighting in the vegetative and flowering space... wondering around aimlessly is likely with just about any strain.

My grows all have UV A/B and infrared. Leaves are thicker with the addition of UV A/B and infrared.

 

[Doc Bud]

If you add UltraViolet A / B radiation to lighting in the vegetative and flowering space... wondering around aimlessly is likely with just about any strain.

My grows all have UV A/B and infrared. Leaves are thicker with the addition of UV A/B and infrared.

I think those Advanced LED's have those spectrums. I hope so.

 

[GoldenEagle]

I think those Advanced LED's have those spectrums. I hope so.

The Diamond Series XML have UV A at 380 nanometer and infrared.at 760nm.

Generally speaking UV C is 100-280nm UV B is 280-315nm, UV A is 315-400nm. Infrared is 700nm-1micrometre (1µm or 1000nm)

The advanced LED website claims... 11+ Wavelengths of Color Output: 760nm, 740nm, 720nm, 660nm, 630nm, 615nm-480nm, 460nm, 440nm, 415nm, 380nm

To compete with outdoor grows, indoor growers need UV A, UV B and infrared in addition to the standard PAR spectrum. The Earth's ozone layer absorbs UV C and some UV B. UV A passes through the ozone layer.

 

[Duggan]

I use those big metal Intermatic timers Shiggity posted. They work great and last a long time. I've used them for my pool pump. That's where I got the idea to use them for my lighting. I found a used one at the flea market for $3.00. Was missing the on/off tabs. I already had extras, but bLowes sells the for $2. Hot wired it to a lamp cord and tested its accuracy for a week. Was spot on!!! Went into my veg cabinet. Used a brand new one for the flower cabinet.

Yes, please check neutral and load wires. Switching the neutral is extremely dangerous. You could very easily become the ground and complete the circuit when switched off.

Yes, very dangerous...i've been a journeyman Electrician for over 30 yrs....listen to me , please, never mess with switching "neutrals and hots, unless you are 100% sure of what your doing....not 99% , have to be 100% sure that the last person who touched the wiring made a mistake...it's possible for sure , but , if he /she new what they were doing it should be Ok , so look at all the other possibilities first OK! Cheers and be safe! Duggs

 

[Governmentchz]

right...leccy is like black magic man. I don't mess with it personally.

 

[Doc Bud]

right...leccy is like black magic man. I don't mess with it personally.

I'll do little things, like wire a receptacle or change out a breaker. But when I had to take 3 phase and turn it into single phase 240 I called a pro. All my wiring is up to code, in conduits, etc. Except for I do use extension cords to place things around the room.

 

[Doc Bud]

 

[flowerfarmer]

Wow! Big plants and chunky buds. Nice!

 

[Stage]

....................someday.

 

[Doc Bud]

....................someday.

You can do this easily. Copy me a couple cycles and then you'll be able to do it Stage style. You'll see. High Brix baby.

 

[GoldenEagle]

The Diamond Series XML have UV A at 380 nanometer and infrared.at 760nm.

Generally speaking UV C is 100-280nm UV B is 280-315nm, UV A is 315-400nm. Infrared is 700nm-1micrometre (1µm or 1000nm)

The advanced LED website claims... 11+ Wavelengths of Color Output: 760nm, 740nm, 720nm, 660nm, 630nm, 615nm-480nm, 460nm, 440nm, 415nm, 380nm

To compete with outdoor grows, indoor growers need UV A, UV B and infrared in addition to the standard PAR spectrum. The Earth's ozone layer absorbs UV C and some UV B. UV A passes through the ozone layer.

Out of fairness... The spectrum of Metal Halide bulbs is vegetative growth related light energy they do includes very little UV A and infrared. The spectrum of High Pressure Sodium bulbs is mostly flowering related light energy the do include very little UV A and infrared. If were to ever use MH and HPS I would still have additional UV A/B and infrared within the grow space.

Granted there is nothing wrong with using MH and or HPS within a grow space, if that is what a grower wants. The spectrum for MH and HPS is predominately green yellow or yellow orange and benefits human eye sight more than plants.

Quoted to add additional information in italics

 

[medmanmike]

Hey HB gang, today is day 18 of 12/12. Doing a final pruning when I discovered this (see attached pic). Looks like both my Green Crack ladies are trying to do double duty!

There are "balls" up and down all of the colas so unless someone convinces me otherwise, they've got to go. Bummer....

Any value in using these plants along with the other trimmings for extracts?

 

[Governmentchz]

Bummer dude. Since they're on the whole plant, I doubt I'd keep them personally. And at the stage they are currently, there would be very little medicinal benefit to hashing them out.