Funny you should say that. I actually do have a cool tube and fan... BUT after I installed it my temps only dropped by 2 degrees. Not sure why, but it is t working that's why Ima get an led instead. Really it sucked, I bought the tube and still had to have it cut down cause it was too long. And it still does t work.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
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Sonora
New Member
Adding CO2 to your grow allows you to have an increased static temperature. CO2 at 1100 PPM+ triggers your plant to think it's in the Cretaceous period, back when temps (and CO2) were far greater. That's often easier than trying to lower temps themselves.
Hey dajerm...one more thought you should consider ...always go bigger than what the manufacturer says....if they say , ya that will replace a 250w HPS....get the one bigger than what they say....just my 2 brotha! Cheers eh!
Bummer about the tube not fitting and then not working for you after it was cut.
My guess is, the ambient temperature of the air being pulled through was not low enough to help lower your overall temps. I only grow indoors during the winter. I can pull 30-40 degree air into the room and/or tube. It makes keeping the temp's down a breeze. It's the humidity I battle.
Sounds like you have a winner. Let us know how it goes.
What up duggan, I was thinking that since I'm only growing one plant at a time in a 18"x18" or 45cm X 45cm area that the 150 would be good. Do you think in an area that size i could use a light as large as the 450? I have about 4 feet or 121? cementers in height would that be tall enough for that light? Thank you for your reply, I enjoy input from different perspectives.
Hey there Sonora, I would like to try CO2 but I have to have one hell of an exhaust right now. If I shut the exhaust off the temp will climb to 90 really quick. If this LED runs much cooler I may consider doing this. Thank you!!
Oh boy...18" X 18",...ya not much space. Sorry, didn't know...ya get the smaller one. Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #11,328
I have to differ.
Add C02 to your grow only AFTER gaining control over the environment. It's not enough to "cope" with higher temps. We want to dictate the temps, anytime, all the time.
Doc I know people always love that high brix can make wax plastic leaves. I certainly do. But I was worried that it wouldn't allow me to do a fade like I always do with my Twister. I have held off on the destress in flower and she is fading towards yellow green on her fans with red and purple interveinal highlights!
I now feel free to experiment with fade during flower. The kit even makes that easy too! Seems like eventually I will know the ins and outs and get the kit to do whatever I want for that particular plant. I will try some all dark green twister soon to see which is better!
I now feel free to experiment with fade during flower. The kit even makes that easy too! Seems like eventually I will know the ins and outs and get the kit to do whatever I want for that particular plant. I will try some all dark green twister soon to see which is better!
Mostly because CO2 has a high operating cost.
The main thing is balance. If you're weak in some area -temps, humidity, lighting, ventilation, etc - you improve that first, but going big won't help unless you improve the others too. I went full-max on my lighting, and my grow actually suffered.
The foliage was over-stimulated for the environment. I had temps under control, but not humidity. You need humidity when you're running sun-scale lighting. 
The entire pace of the grow was changed, but my environment was only as good as the atmosphere I could keep. I should know better. A fuchcia simply won't survive in a windy enviromment for instance - I've tried repeatedly. You can hang it in a nice corner with dappled shade on a lakeshore - seems like it would work - but nope, the constant wind off the lake will dessicate it. Lotsa light in a drier than optimum environment will just make things worse.Ventilation directly screws with temps and humidity. High ventilation makes RH difficult to control, but without it temps get too high.
It's about the balance. Every factor has to keep pace with the others.
As far as light - 50 watts per square foot of canopy is still a good rough measure of "optimum light". It's actually 20-25 PAR watts, and varies from source to source but not by a ton. If you have that much, you need to look to the other factors before you go bigger.
Balance.
- Thread starter
- #11,331
Doc I know people always love that high brix can make wax plastic leaves. I certainly do. But I was worried that it wouldn't allow me to do a fade like I always do with my Twister. I have held off on the destress in flower and she is fading towards yellow green on her fans with red and purple interveinal highlights!
I now feel free to experiment with fade during flower. The kit even makes that easy too! Seems like eventually I will know the ins and outs and get the kit to do whatever I want for that particular plant. I will try some all dark green twister soon to see which is better!
Oh, yeah!
Once you understand how it all works you can fade 'em, purple 'em, all kinds of stuff. Late Cat Drench will often bring out fall colors all kinds of interesting stuff. Good for you!
The kit isn't meant to be a rigid system. It's a starting point. A truly HIgh Brix soil, no guessing, no folklore. That can be worked with in all sorts of ways to do really interesting things.
Mostly because CO2 has a high operating cost.
The main thing is balance. If you're weak in some area -temps, humidity, lighting, ventilation, etc - you improve that first, but going big won't help unless you improve the others too. I went full-max on my lighting, and my grow actually suffered.
Ventilation directly screws with temps and humidity. High ventilation makes RH difficult to control, but without it temps get too high.
It's about the balance. Every factor has to keep pace with the others.
As far as light - 50 watts per square foot of canopy is still a good rough measure of "optimum light". It's actually 20-25 PAR watts, and varies from source to source but not by a ton. If you have that much, you need to look to the other factors before you go bigger.
Balance.
Thank you for this! Its exactly what I'm dealing with. I have my vent up so high I have very low humidity. If I change to a more suitable light for the space and bring the temps way down I should be able to bring my humidity up just by turning my vent fan down a bit. Im pretty sure a 150W LED light will work very well in my space.
What do you think? I have an 18"x18" floor space.
I will definitely showcase some of the differences in leaves and buds. One of the things I run into with people is that for some reason they think all kit plants are cookie cutter plants. They don't realize that cookie cutter means healthy. And that it is just a jumping off point. Once they are healthy you can do almost anything. With other nutrient regimens you are adjusting things all the time just to keep them looking good. I am finding I can just forget the healthy aspect. I know it's gonna be there. So this time I hoped for a colorful fade and was rewarded! This twister is anything but a cookie cutter plant. I look at mine and the only major similarity to the other kit plants on 420 mag is: stellar looking plants oozing with trichs!
I get more and more excited about the kit every day.
- Thread starter
- #11,334
You've got the right idea bro. Very small changes can be seen and tasted. Timing drenches and sprays differently also has an effect.
But the main thing is exactly what you said. We start healthy, we try to stay healthy, and we end up healthy....but one plant will have purple/yellow/orange and the other will be all green. One got blood meal, the other didn't. One got sprayed a day before waterings, the other got sprayed the same day it was watered....little things like that.
After a half dozen cycles of paying close attention, you start to develop an intuition on what to do.
It might be a "cookie-cutter" but we grow many kinds of rare and exotic cookies!
Hey Doc,
I'm wondering what the feeding schedule would be for RE-vegging.
RE-vegging for me, when using organic ferts, worked 50% of the time, but in DBHB I'm O for 4.
I have been assuming the I should feed the soil at the same rate that I had been, just less water, as the heavily trimmed plants dont drink as much. But the plants just turn a grey brown and dry out.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
I'm wondering what the feeding schedule would be for RE-vegging.
RE-vegging for me, when using organic ferts, worked 50% of the time, but in DBHB I'm O for 4.
I have been assuming the I should feed the soil at the same rate that I had been, just less water, as the heavily trimmed plants dont drink as much. But the plants just turn a grey brown and dry out.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
- Thread starter
- #11,336
I have no idea! I don't reveg. I've never tried it.
if you havent tried this, put the plant in dark, no light cycle for 24 hrs,; then a very light dominant schedule 18-20hrs on.. this may help reveg it. Hermies can occur with revegging..
I think its called Monster Cropping, or Flowering Clones, no?
medmanmike
Well-Known Member
Just an FYI... DormGrow recommends keeping the 450 20-30" above the plants. Your head space (no pun intended) might be an issue.) I'm running 450s (2) over a 3x3' tray (2) with excellent results. I add a 90w UFO (DormGrow) for flowering.
Hey there, thanks for the reply! I decided to go with the P150 due to my space constraints/ heat issues. How you like those 450s? do you think this brand is worth the coin? I really like the 5 year warranty and 90 day money back. Ill check it out (P150) and if the temps stay low enough ill keep it.
Gaffle
Well-Known Member
Aight, so my grow is coming upon 2 of the kits additions. I am real close to bud set for Cat. This also puts me close for the scratching of Recharge. Can Cat and Recharge be done on the same day? Buds are forming but not what I call set yet, but close. If I wait that would put Recharge into week 5 of bloom.
Should I add Recharge with my feeding which is 2.5 weeks of bloom?
Should I add Recharge with my feeding which is 2.5 weeks of bloom?