Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

shadowmoses said:
Thanks Doc and gang. I didn't add the tea for my seeds unfortunately. I am sure it will be alright till they sprout though. Thanks for all the info and happy my question helped others as well.

So before foliars while they are in the seedling stage I assume we just let them dry out a bit then drench as you would normally for veg?
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It's cool you don't need to add tea to get seeds to sprout. They don't need drenched until around 5 nodes either, at that point start treating them as a veg plant. With first run soil that had no additions a very light transplant / tea feeding might be good around 2 or 3 nodes. Watering is the same as a veg plant after they have sprouted, let them mostly dry out and then water :thumb:

If this is your first grow of any kind keeping some air movement on the seedlings is really helpful to keep them from getting weak lanky stems that end up falling over and needing staked up.
 
O yeah I forgot I came here to ask a question :rofl:

Not really HB related per say but... Has anyone one attempted cloning the tops of plants and if so how many nodes to do you keep on the cuttings? I would really like to cut the tops off my vegging plants to start as clones for a SOG since they need toped anyway.

Thanks :passitleft:

Here is what they look like now I would like to take the cuts hopefully this weekend and keep the topped plants for possible keeper moms.
DSC_7434_554DSC_7434_sm.JPG
 
flowerfarmer said:
Yes, i have and they seem to root very fast. I cut maybe two or three nodes at the most.
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Sweet thanks, I figured they would do good but have never tried it.
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
It's cool you don't need to add tea to get seeds to sprout. They don't need drenched until around 5 nodes either, at that point start treating them as a veg plant. With first run soil that had no additions a very light transplant / tea feeding might be good around 2 or 3 nodes. Watering is the same as a veg plant after they have sprouted, let them mostly dry out and then water :thumb:

If this is your first grow of any kind keeping some air movement on the seedlings is really helpful to keep them from getting weak lanky stems that end up falling over and needing staked up.
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Thanks Smokey, I really appreciate the help.
 
Fuzzy Duck said:
Aye i'm working on it & my current thoughts at the moment are...


Calcium carbonates alternatives - Garden lime pretty alright source of calcium carbonate/calcium oxide may contain other nutrients depending on source of rock it came from & being a PH buffer which is very easy to get hold off.

Other forms are egg shells, snail shells, marine sea shells these are all high calcium carbonate content.

Soft rock phosphate alternative - volcanic rock dust as contains pretty much just as many nutrients as soft rock phosphate also has a pretty good CEC with a PH value between 6 & 7.

Gypsum - Found a supplyer in my own country but only deals in 25kg bags to 500 kilos but ebay has proved useful here & awaiting to put my order in.


More than likely will use biochar as it has good CEC which the brand i'll be using is inoculated with 6 forms of mycorrhizal, worm casts & laced with kelp meal (trace macro, micro nutrients), i will also continue using bone meal as a supplement calcium source.


Compost used will be Biobizz All Mix along with some of there nutrients fish mix, alg-a-mic, bio bloom & bio heaven which fish mix & alg-a-mic can be used as a folair spray with all of these products being rated as organic & certified by OMRI/SKAL.


I like a little bit of manure tho :thumb:

As humus is derived from decaying plant/organic matter aka compost & manures of a very well rotted nature which i believe is good for the microrganism population of the soil which in turn adventurely breaks down into fulvic/humic acids etc



I did have a reasonable hard time working out ratios tho which i based my calculations on metric kilo's & grams for the 6/5/3 amendment

10kg (10000g) of Biobizz All Mix compost.

Garden lime 600g
Volcanic rock dust 500g
Gypsum 300g

Bone meal, biochar, manure not included yet or at least undecided on ratio at present !


I did revisit soft rock phosphate tho about the mention of the clay particuls being good for CEC & was wondering if that was common charactistic of all clays ?
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Yup, all excellent suggestions.. if you have an oak tree garden that you're looking to fertilize for a slow steady flow over about a 100 years of time.
 
Hey Doc,

I've been doing research on High Brix for my vegetable garden - I just read The Anatomy of Life & Energy in Agriculture by Arden B. Andersen along with any resource on High Brix I can get my hands on. I came across your threads via Google search. You seem to be an authority on the subject, and I'm impressed by your ongoing feedback. I was wondering if this method would work on any fruits and vegetables, specifically tomatoes, raspberries, and kale - I grow year round in a 12x12 greenhouse. If so, I'd like to purchase one of your kits. I tried to PM you, but I need 50 posts. I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this.
 
feels good, YEAH!

Milkshaker said:
Hey Doc,

I've been doing research on High Brix for my vegetable garden - I just read The Anatomy of Life & Energy in Agriculture by Arden B. Andersen along with any resource on High Brix I can get my hands on. I came across your threads via Google search. You seem to be an authority on the subject, and I'm impressed by your ongoing feedback. I was wondering if this method would work on any fruits and vegetables, specifically tomatoes, raspberries, and kale - I grow year round in a 12x12 greenhouse. If so, I'd like to purchase one of your kits. I tried to PM you, but I need 50 posts. I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this.
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You're in the right spot, making all the right moves!
 
Re: feels good, YEAH!

Milkshaker said:
Hey Doc,

I've been doing research on High Brix for my vegetable garden - ..... I was wondering if this method would work on any fruits and vegetables, specifically tomatoes, raspberries, and kale - I grow year round in a 12x12 greenhouse. If so, I'd like to purchase one of your kits. I tried to PM you, but I need 50 posts. I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this.
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Vegetable gardeners are looking to cannabis farmers for best advice on growing. :green_heart:

oh, and thanks for an awesome thread and everything you do, Doc
 
Milkshaker said:
Hey Doc,

I've been doing research on High Brix for my vegetable garden - I just read The Anatomy of Life & Energy in Agriculture by Arden B. Andersen along with any resource on High Brix I can get my hands on. I came across your threads via Google search. You seem to be an authority on the subject, and I'm impressed by your ongoing feedback. I was wondering if this method would work on any fruits and vegetables, specifically tomatoes, raspberries, and kale - I grow year round in a 12x12 greenhouse. If so, I'd like to purchase one of your kits. I tried to PM you, but I need 50 posts. I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this.
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yes it works on all ..the lab and their customers, the one Doc utilizes for the HB kit ingredients, are farmers of supermarket produce, livestock feed, etc. Doc bud took care of the 420 produce grown in HB soil :)
 
Smokey, I always leave 3 nodes. Works great. Supposedly, there's less growth hormone the higher you take the cutting. Is this what you meant by your question?

(late, sorry.)
 
I have a 3 year old Acapulco Gold mother I take clones from the top in most cases. I've allowed her to get too big in veg. I am getting her healthy and then plan on a transplant/root chop/ and major trim job soon. Anyone here have some good advice on this kind of thing? It is my first mother and I want to do it properly so I don't lose her. I'll be putting her in DBHBB of course. Transplant chop roots first or major trim first then transplant chop roots? She's been in a 7 gal cloth pot for about a year.
 
xtrchessreal said:
I have a 3 year old Acapulco Gold mother I take clones from the top in most cases. I've allowed her to get too big in veg. I am getting her healthy and then plan on a transplant/root chop/ and major trim job soon. Anyone here have some good advice on this kind of thing? It is my first mother and I want to do it properly so I don't lose her. I'll be putting her in DBHBB of course. Transplant chop roots first or major trim first then transplant chop roots? She's been in a 7 gal cloth pot for about a year.
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i have similar situation..mine are clones, flowering nicely since i went to 10/14.. they're in 1.? gal squares .
 
DrZiggy said:
can clones from same mother give different phenos?
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Did you ask a question, Ziggy? There is no place for questions here. Silly, Doc started this thread to answer questions,, but he'll figure the question....lol
 
DrZiggy said:
can clones from same mother give different phenos?
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Yes!

Phenotype arises from the combination of genotype and environment. Treat two clones differently and they may appear different. Clones taken from different parts of the plant, or at different times may start phenotypically different, but in identical environments their phenotypes will converge.

Phenotype is just the sum of all the different characteristics of an organism.

Hope that helps
Cheers!
 
God I love the way he talks.
 
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