Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Congratulations Doc for hitting the 10,000 mark.

Kudos to you for ALL of your methods and the advice you have given me (us) over the years.

I have followed you from OC+, to brix, and you haven't steered me wrong yet.

Happy growing and wishing you 10,000 more posts Doc
 
I only plan on using less than a pint per gallon pot just to soak where I plant the seed. The rest of the soil I just make sure is still moist from cooking.
 
BrixKlinger said:
Twist my rubber arm!

Question: can coco be ammended or used in a % to grow organically? Now just so you all know I'm not trying to start any shit (ok I am trying to start shit, but I'm not trying to justify coco for myself, fuck that, i'm trying to figure out wtf Im being lied to about). But I have been poking around this industry as it blows up in my face the last couple years and alot of hydro and coco growers are claiming organic. Now I know that we know better and we know what we know us clever guys here.

Despite our little corner of the world an industry standard of lies, waste, chemicals and greed is roflstomping what we call the end of prohibition.

Just once I'd like to meet someone in real life whose credibility in this business wasn't based on the car they drive.

So far it has only been on the internet, which has been fucken awesome (look at my baby ladies and all yallz)

Even the marijuana industry truly doesn't have the balls to try to be sustainable when theres a cash grab. We have so many opportunities to be leaders in agriculture, but why do that when they already have us with the chemicals. Lay responsibility on your fellow greedy heads. Money is not the reason we wanted to be allowed to do what we wanted.

The healing power of our plant goes beyond just physical human health, but our minds, our soil, our spirituality and community. Instead it withers with necrosis under our own free hand.

/rant
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"Organic" is a political term. In science, "organic" can refer to chemistry, where Alkanes, Alkenes, and Alkynes and other chained carbon molecules are studied, including toxic things like Benzene or really volatile things like Ether. These are Organic Chemistry components. They're Organic hydrocarbons, many of which are not natural! Some are very toxic.

In the political sense, "Organic" means certain fertilizers and pesticides aren't allowed, while others are, depending on the crop, time of year and state.

I like to use the term "Biological Farming" instead of Organic for precisely the reason that hydro and coco growers can be just as "Organic" as a LOS grower! This is silly, as one relys on microbial action in in the rootzone and the other is based on salts and in the case of hydro, a sterile medium.

I've heard that Coco can sustain some soil life if tended to properly, but even so, it has problems with CEC that particularly effect calcium uptake. This is exactly what we DON"T want in High Brix. We're all about the calcium. It's the most abundant thing in the soil. We add more of it in the form of drenches and foliars than any other element. Coco makes High Brix impossible.....but it can fulfill the "organic" definition as each state legislature defines it.

What we want is living, mineralized soil, optimal environment and excellent lighting. We want increased nutrient density in the plant and the only way to get that is via myco in mineralized soil.
 
Great post Doc. The term "Organic" is used very loosely and is more of a buzz word these days. My ultimate goal is to grow and develop a soil out of natural growing, locally sourced ingredients. That isnt currently possible, so I have ordered some items. It's part of my personal challenge to be self reliant eventually.

From my understanding, coir will need more constant compost or ewc teas, as well as an additional sulfur input. I don't use coir, I stick to the peat.

I think we are trying to accomplish the same things with our final product. Smooth, clean, fresh tasting, doesn't hit or sit in your lungs, highest quality product. Believe me when I say you have been a huge inspiration towards me mineralizing my soil and putting an emphasis on calcium.

Can you go over different minerals that could be added and why or why not? ie. basalt, granite, glacial, volcanic, azomite, ect.

Thanks Doc.
 
Doc Bud said:
"Organic" is a political term. In science, "organic" can refer to chemistry, where Alkanes, Alkenes, and Alkynes and other chained carbon molecules are studied, including toxic things like Benzene or really volatile things like Ether. These are Organic Chemistry components. They're Organic hydrocarbons, many of which are not natural! Some are very toxic.

In the political sense, "Organic" means certain fertilizers and pesticides aren't allowed, while others are, depending on the crop, time of year and state.

I like to use the term "Biological Farming" instead of Organic for precisely the reason that hydro and coco growers can be just as "Organic" as a LOS grower! This is silly, as one relys on microbial action in in the rootzone and the other is based on salts and in the case of hydro, a sterile medium.

I've heard that Coco can sustain some soil life if tended to properly, but even so, it has problems with CEC that particularly effect calcium uptake. This is exactly what we DON"T want in High Brix. We're all about the calcium. It's the most abundant thing in the soil. We add more of it in the form of drenches and foliars than any other element. Coco makes High Brix impossible.....but it can fulfill the "organic" definition as each state legislature defines it.

What we want is living, mineralized soil, optimal environment and excellent lighting. We want increased nutrient density in the plant and the only way to get that is via myco in mineralized soil.
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Post of the year. I've always said it's a state of mind. Most people chasing a organic method are tight asses that drive shit vehicles live in shitty homes and are trying to find a cheap "clean" way. There's a few I've met that are actually passionate about it. I have to Lil time to worry about that. So I do what I can. Wish more newer growers didn't over read or get over praised on Internet forums like 420.

People that do it as a passion is a different ball game so I can't commit on that.
 
36Gr0w said:
Great post Doc. The term "Organic" is used very loosely and is more of a buzz word these days. My ultimate goal is to grow and develop a soil out of natural growing, locally sourced ingredients. That isnt currently possible, so I have ordered some items. It's part of my personal challenge to be self reliant eventually.

From my understanding, coir will need more constant compost or ewc teas, as well as an additional sulfur input. I don't use coir, I stick to the peat.

I think we are trying to accomplish the same things with our final product. Smooth, clean, fresh tasting, doesn't hit or sit in your lungs, highest quality product. Believe me when I say you have been a huge inspiration towards me mineralizing my soil and putting an emphasis on calcium.

Can you go over different minerals that could be added and why or why not? ie. basalt, granite, glacial, volcanic, azomite, ect.

Thanks Doc.
Click to expand...

Another nice post
 
36Gr0w said:
Great post Doc. The term "Organic" is used very loosely and is more of a buzz word these days. My ultimate goal is to grow and develop a soil out of natural growing, locally sourced ingredients. That isnt currently possible, so I have ordered some items. It's part of my personal challenge to be self reliant eventually.

From my understanding, coir will need more constant compost or ewc teas, as well as an additional sulfur input. I don't use coir, I stick to the peat.

I think we are trying to accomplish the same things with our final product. Smooth, clean, fresh tasting, doesn't hit or sit in your lungs, highest quality product. Believe me when I say you have been a huge inspiration towards me mineralizing my soil and putting an emphasis on calcium.

Can you go over different minerals that could be added and why or why not? ie. basalt, granite, glacial, volcanic, azomite, ect.

Thanks Doc.
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Yep!

Basalt, granite, and all that aren't minerals in the sense that I'm talking about. They are rock powders that are full of individual minerals, salts, and silica in varying proportions. It's the proportion of the minerals in the rock powders you listed that are of interest.

Here's what we High Brix guys have found is the optimal soil:

5000-6000 pounds of calcium per acre
approx 350 pounds of phosphorus and potassium
500-600 pounds magnesium
200 lbs sulfur
80 pounds nitrogen split evenly between nitrate and ammonium
Trace elements in trace amounts
Humus perhaps 4-6%.

These numbers are slightly rounded on my part but still an ideal soil when achieved.

So, we would take your glacial rock dust and analyze it to see how much of it could or should be added to bring the soil into range based on the simplified formula I mentioned above. Same with glacial rock dust, SRP and Azomite. Many times with glacial rock dust, the sodium levels are too high.

We use calcium based rock powders, namely limestone, gypsum and carbonized limestone
Clay based rock powders, like Soft Rock Phosphate
Silica based rock powders like volcanic rock dust.

Limestone and Soft Rock Phosphate react in the soil and form an electromagnetic field that helps with water and wind erosion. HB growers may have noticed a white crust forming on top of the pots after applying Recharge, which has all these rock powders in it.....that's what I'm referring to.

Silica based rock powders creates paramagnetism in the soil. There's much to study in this area.

We pretty much know the makeup of good soil. What ingredients in what amounts are added to amend any given soil depends on two factors:

1. What is lacking in the pre-amended soil
2. What elements are present in the various rock powders.

A soil from the desert area in the American Southwest is going to need a very different amendment than a soil from Northern Maine or the Pacific Northwest.

This is one of the "blindspots" organic growers have. Let's say a guy in Oregon has a really great soil mix from locally sourced ingredients. His list of ingredients is obtained by a gardener in Georgia who sources local ingredients and makes the same soil mix that proceeds to underperform or burn plants! WTF?

Well, the guy in Oregon is amending a rich, volcanic soil with a good amount of humus. His locally sourced ingredients (rock powders, etc) all originate West of the Mississippi, mainly from North Dakota, Utah and BC.

Meanwhile, the Georgia gardener is amending a sandy loam with feather meal, fishbone meal, bat guano, alfalfa mea, crab meal, kelp meall and blood meal added, along with Dolomite for a pH stabilizer. His ingredients (rock powders, etc) come from Oklahoma, Texas and Mexico.

The two soils might differ in pH by 2 points. CEC could be radically different. MIneral content and ratio's are also going to differ greatly. They're not even the same soil, despite having the same ingredients:

Potting soil
Glacial rock dust
volcanic rock dust
marble dust
azomite
forest humus
EWC.

So, we use a soil test. We choose various ingredients to amend the soil, based on the soil test.

So, the simple answer to your question is that any and all of the materials you listed can be added depending on what the soil test says the soil needs.
 
Thanks for another great informative post Doc. I didn't clarify before, I'm trying to amend sphagnum peat moss with locally sourced materials and plants I can grow myself. I want clear on that. I plan on testing my soil after a few uses and I get a feel for it. Mostly I want to wait until I relocate and can put testing to more use. Tested soil would be my "mineralized organic natural los no till hugelkulture container raised bed mix."

What are your thoughts on Mehlich 3 testing vs the Morgans?

Do you test tissue?
 
36Gr0w said:
Thanks for another great informative post Doc. I didn't clarify before, I'm trying to amend sphagnum peat moss with locally sourced materials and plants I can grow myself. I want clear on that. I plan on testing my soil after a few uses and I get a feel for it. Mostly I want to wait until I relocate and can put testing to more use. Tested soil would be my "mineralized organic natural los no till hugelkulture container raised bed mix."

What are your thoughts on Mehlich 3 testing vs the Morgans?

Do you test tissue?
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I much prefer the Morgan type test over the Mehlich/Bray types.

Morgan uses weaker acid that mimics what it available at the root zone. It's a "real life" test, so to speak.

While not a strong acid test, Mehlich is a "stronger" acid than in Morgan testing AND they use chelating agents to test for metals. (EDTA, etc) This does not represent what is available at the root zone, while the Morgan test does.

Good luck on your project!
 
Test tissue is very well variable. Why when each genetic would vary. And not only that but different stages of growth. Not even considering pheno types. You are talking about plant tissue testing correct?
 
Dutty Panty said:
Test tissue is very well variable. Why when each genetic would vary. And not only that but different stages of growth. Not even considering pheno types. You are talking about plant tissue testing correct?
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I am in possession of the most exquisitely sensitive plant tissue testing machine: My nose and taste buds.

It doesn't work for soil, however.
 
Dutty Panty said:
A tissue test from my understanding is non applicable to adjust soils based upon other variables like environment and feedings including foliar am I incorrect?
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I suppose it could be used to adjust the soil.....if you made a habit of petiole testing and tested low on magnesium you could add Epsoms OR foliar feed magnesium. But that's NPK thinking and it doesn't always translate into biological growing methods.

The soil takes care of things. Feed the soil. Keep the soil happy and the plants do their thing.
 
That seems very unlikely though. There's way too many variables with tissue.


Hey gray. For the record I wouldn't have docs kit or know doc if it wasn't for gray. Doc charge me for graytails next kit you know my billing.
 
Hash Hound said:
Congratulations Doc for hitting the 10,000 mark.

Kudos to you for ALL of your methods and the advice you have given me (us) over the years.

I have followed you from OC+, to brix, and you haven't steered me wrong yet.

Happy growing and wishing you 10,000 more posts Doc
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Another one of the few posters from 2009, still posting. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Thanks, Hash. :bravo:
 
So im getting a bit of tacoing on my strawberry cough. Ive been using rain water to feed up until now. I have really hard water (220 ppm) so my question is, should I try using my tap (well) water next time or should I use a bit of epsom? Thanks Doc
 
Mornin Scrubbs....with the tacoing goin on ....i would give 1 teaspoon /gal ,epsoms for three consecutive drinks then lay off for two ,then give another three....but only with a teaspoon /gal. and no more.I would use the water you know has the lowest ppm.Just my two Scrubbs...have a great day pal....cheers.
 
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