Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Awesome, thanks for the help doc. So if I am completely soaking the soil when I do the drenchs I'm all set? Or do you not want a lot of runoff? I like the idea of feeding from the top and bottom so I will do that.


Just gonna find the post in the other thread haha
 
Awesome, thanks for the help doc. So if I am completely soaking the soil when I do the drenchs I'm all set? Or do you not want a lot of runoff? I like the idea of feeding from the top and bottom so I will do that.


Just gonna find the post in the other thread haha

Since we're dealing with containers and their particular challenges, it's very important to insure the entire medium is soaked.

In a 7 gallon container, I find it take about 2 gallons to soak every inch if you water from the top, and about 1 gallon if you use a saucer as described.

While compaction isn't really a problem with good soil, bottom watering also helps decrease soil compaction along with the wicking action insuring the whole thing gets wet.
 
Since we're dealing with containers and their particular challenges, it's very important to insure the entire medium is soaked.

In a 7 gallon container, I find it take about 2 gallons to soak every inch if you water from the top, and about 1 gallon if you use a saucer as described.

While compaction isn't really a problem with good soil, bottom watering also helps decrease soil compaction along with the wicking action insuring the whole thing gets wet.

Very valuable info for the us new guys trying to water but not drowned.......thanks again doc.
 
Dunk/dry is a GREAT way to build thick, strong stems, robust roots and relatively few leaves.

Learned something new today Doc. Hadn't caught that about the leaves before. That explains a lot.
 
Ahhh, again thanks for the quick responses doc. This makes me feel way more at ease with using the kit now! I've been screenshotting all your directions and I plan on following them pretty much to the tee until I get it down. I found all the stuff I needed and I think I'm set. Will be ordering my kit in the coming week I think.
 
I think a 15 would produce a few nice tomatos. They're sweet and delicious!

15s are great...my HB heirlooms last yr were over 9 feet tall in the 15s....the plants came from a farmer who mineralized his soil...i popped them into HB soil and the tomatoes were better than his final tomatoes from same plant strains...

best tomatoes ever!
 
Yeah...I knew it. I had to tell him to not use Brix foliar and to use a different drench.....squashes and melons take a different soil profile than seed/fruit bearing crops.

I have several large scale vegetable growers using my gear. One guy in particular supplies his 3 restaurants with High Brix produce.

Don't want to appear as if I'm trying to steal the spotlight here Doc, only extending on what you said. I just wanted people to also understand that different fruit and vegetables have different IDEAL Brix levels.
7bd3b6c8fded0d4224ade7138a87e47d.jpg

If you've already shown this, my apologies. I read the first 115 pages then said f it and skipped to the back 20 pages. What can I say I'm transparent.. lazy, but transparent nonetheless :thumb:
 
15s are great...my HB heirlooms last yr were over 9 feet tall in the 15s....the plants came from a farmer who mineralized his soil...i popped them into HB soil and the tomatoes were better than his final tomatoes from same plant strains...

best tomatoes ever!

Seriously, if you live in the right area, you could make a living growing tomatoes and selling them directly to really fine restaurants. It costs the same or less to grow them as with corporate farming, but the quality is so freakishly good, super expensive steak houses and Italian restaurants----the kind that cost 100-250 a person without wine----will pay twice the price for them.

Normal tomatoes just won't work. They absolutely must have High Brix produce to stay in business. Greens too, although they're harder to grow.
 
I have been looking for a new job and also thinking about taking up farming but I know it's not the right area for that I am in wheat country but it would be nice to have a couple hundred acre hibrix farm of weed and veggies. I love gardening and my girlfriends dad is talking about retireing soon and how he has nobody to take over the farm I said I would but I don't think he thought I was serious. But this does put thoughts into my head I need a 420 friendly career as my time has run out with my current medical field career
 
15s are great...my HB heirlooms last yr were over 9 feet tall in the 15s....the plants came from a farmer who mineralized his soil...i popped them into HB soil and the tomatoes were better than his final tomatoes from same plant strains...

best tomatoes ever!

Good info, thanks good Doctor Ziggy!!

Question for Doc --- if I'm using you're kit or a portion, the portion I'll use for my non 420 -- does it matter how long I cook, or brew the soil? Reason being, I'd like to start a few tomatoes on your kit, pick the best and use that in a fifteen gallon smart pot. So, ideally I'd start the seeds today or asap.

And a melon smart pot,, but I can wait a little longer to drop that....

I have less time for the tomatoes, I don't have to start them today,, but I'd like to sooner rather than later.

Thank you!!

Maybe I'll run a special brew of tomatoes for a Doc Bud high brix salsa this year....compare that to my tried and true method. ???
 
Good info, thanks good Doctor Ziggy!!

Question for Doc --- if I'm using you're kit or a portion, the portion I'll use for my non 420 -- does it matter how long I cook, or brew the soil? Reason being, I'd like to start a few tomatoes on your kit, pick the best and use that in a fifteen gallon smart pot. So, ideally I'd start the seeds today or asap.

And a melon smart pot,, but I can wait a little longer to drop that....

I have less time for the tomatoes, I don't have to start them today,, but I'd like to sooner rather than later.

Thank you!!

Maybe I'll run a special brew of tomatoes for a Doc Bud high brix salsa this year....compare that to my tried and true method. ???

The soil still needs to cook, whether indoors or out. Many people put down the mineral broadcast in late fall, after harvest. This method can take a year or two to get the soil dialed in. By "cooking" the soil, we can get it dialed in after a month.
 
Question of the day. (from dutty)

So I'm about to pull my first docs kit plant down and it looks amazing. So here's my question

I want to reuse the soil what's the BEST way to do this. I plan on placing in a bin chopping the dog piss out of it with my shovel. Then remove root ball and throw in compost. Place in bin and????? Just water? Roots? I know it's probably in here but figured this may be of interest to others.
 
Question of the day. (from dutty)

So I'm about to pull my first docs kit plant down and it looks amazing. So here's my question

I want to reuse the soil what's the BEST way to do this. I plan on placing in a bin chopping the dog piss out of it with my shovel. Then remove root ball and throw in compost. Place in bin and????? Just water? Roots? I know it's probably in here but figured this may be of interest to others.

Leave most of the roots in, just remove the stem and thickest parts.

I like to add a bit of EWC and re-amend with the minerals just like you did at first. You can also add a few HB leaf scraps and a light dusting of roots.

After the second run, cut with about 40% fresh promix. I've got a 3rd run amendment also.

There are several different versions of soil recycling going around and all of them seem to work. I have found that the soil drops off after 4 or 5 runs, so you're still slightly dependent on buying new soil, just not nearly as much or as often.
 
I'll be thrilled with 4. That's 25% of cost. So I will want to order more amendment then with the veggie foliar. How many leaves two big hand fulls. Dead yellow leaves or fresh ones from a light defoilation?

Store same way?
So once I get like 6 seven gallons worth would be best huh? Then add the usual 20+ lbs of ewc or less?
 
I'll be thrilled with 4. That's 25% of cost. So I will want to order more amendment then with the veggie foliar. How many leaves two big hand fulls. Dead yellow leaves or fresh ones from a light defoilation?

Store same way?
So once I get like 6 seven gallons worth would be best huh? Then add the usual 20+ lbs of ewc or less?

Fresh, healthy leaves only....usually at harvest time, when pruning etc. Store/cook it the same way and add 20lbs of castings. I stop adding castings after the second run as the composted roots from the last crop increase organic matter.

I'll be in touch via email.
 
Doc-
I will be ordering more supplies, but I may decide to buy in bulk. I know how much of the liquids come in a kit, but I didn't weigh the dry ingredients. How much Amendment, Recharge, and Roots! come in the "kit"? TY
 
Doc-
I will be ordering more supplies, but I may decide to buy in bulk. I know how much of the liquids come in a kit, but I didn't weigh the dry ingredients. How much Amendment, Recharge, and Roots! come in the "kit"? TY


Smallest bulk order for Roots is 3 lbs. The kit has about half a pound.
Smallest bulk order for Amendment is 10 lbs......the kit has 1.25 pounds.****
"" for Re-charge is 8 pounds....kit has 1 pound.****

Please understand that the amendment can vary in weight a bit due to moisture content in the air. I use a scoop for kits and a scale for bulk, and things can weigh slightly more or less depending on the weather. Not a huge difference, but I know some of you guys like to take thing to the gram/milligram.....while I deal more in handfuls and plops.....:high-five:

Please email me.
 
For my 3rd run I added 15 lbs of ewc, 3rd round amendment (half of it), 1/3 bale of promix, about half a cup of roots! and 3 gallons of rain water. Working marvelously! :)
 
Back
Top Bottom