Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

So how long would you leave them in 1 gallon pots

Up to 5-6 weeks maybe, depending on the strain. Topping, taking clones, pruning for bloom....all of that along with the wet/dry soaking method and you can build an energy packed rootball that will take off in bloom.

I refer you to Dutty's grow, a few weeks ago when the HB veg plants weren't as tall or leafy, but had the same number of nodes, with tighter internodes and thicker stems. That plant not only caught up, but surpassed the salt-nutes plant.

It all depends on how you treat them. If you were just going to top water I'd say no more than 4 weeks.
 
Doc, beautiful! definitely a different WN.
How often do you harvest? Weekly?

I'd say 10 to 14 days on the harvest. Usually 4 plants. Twice a month. The timing can get off sometimes to where I"m harvesting many plants all at...which I hate! I like a nice manageable amount for 2 to 4 people to deal with sans tedium.

I always bribe with plenty of scissor hash and samples, followed by lunch. Payment obviously with product as I am part of a small collective.

That Wille is gonna humble me once again, Ziggy. I'll get something from it, but I think I'll retire that cutting and search for another. I've got seeds.

In the meantime, I'll be putting a few more female Punto Rojo into bloom and making a couple other changes in the near future.
 
Hey Doc, that leaf spray, how often can I use it and can it be kept for a while if its mixed with water like in the fridge or something? Thanks

Remember to use it outdoors! You can use it a couple times a week if needed, but in that case I'd dilute it 50%. One application along with a healthy plant is usually enough to do the trick. Growth Energy is a good drench too, as it will help heal the leaves.

You can keep it for a few days....but be very careful and watch for a bloom. It must be shaken vigorously, constantly throughout use.

For those interested, it's: Liquid fish, phosphoric acid, neem oil, karanja oil, and orange oil. Totally safe and actually feeds the injured leaf, not just kill the bugs.
 
Too much on the nose?

Remember to use it outdoors! You can use it a couple times a week if needed, but in that case I'd dilute it 50%. One application along with a healthy plant is usually enough to do the trick. Growth Energy is a good drench too, as it will help heal the leaves.

You can keep it for a few days....but be very careful and watch for a bloom. It must be shaken vigorously, constantly throughout use.

For those interested, it's: Liquid fish, phosphoric acid, neem oil, karanja oil, SNAKE OIL, WIVES TALES, and orange oil. Totally safe and actually feeds the injured leaf, not just kill the bugs.

Fixed for science!
 
Found an authentic Cuban joint, thinking about emgirating....

Nothing like a fully committed Druid to make you feel good about your liquid fish sourcing!

Sleep well Doctor!
 
im trying VERY hard to read all the post here, i see the soil mix is posted, but you have all this other stuff, growth energy??? and others..
is all those recipes something you will not write in a journal?
we do no-till soil, it seems like all the same additives...
 
im trying VERY hard to read all the post here, i see the soil mix is posted, but you have all this other stuff, growth energy??? and others..
is all those recipes something you will not write in a journal?
we do no-till soil, it seems like all the same additives...

The "Drenches" and "Tea" as well as the Amendment, Recharge, and "Roots!" are all included in his kit. You buy the Pro-Mix and EWC separately.
 
Here what I was dealing with today:

I now have 3 distinct phenotypes and 7/11 females of the Colombian Punto Rojo. Everything is marked and clones of each pheno are segregated. I'll decide which of the three to keep based on how the 4 in bloom turn out. One is already a week in....these go in today. Here they are:

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Everything else

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im trying VERY hard to read all the post here, i see the soil mix is posted, but you have all this other stuff, growth energy??? and others..
is all those recipes something you will not write in a journal?
we do no-till soil, it seems like all the same additives...


Hey, welcome!

This journal is all about High Brix gardening.

1. foundational minerals
2. trace elements
3. microbial action
4. soil energy

The above is the way to achieve high brix. We test the soil---in this case that mean Promix HP myco. Based on the soil test, a custom amendment containing mostly minerals is added.

A combination of foliar sprays and root drenches are used to enhance and excite the microbial population which then feeds the plants. Everything is in the proper ratio by virtue of the soil test.

Here's page one from the journal:

Disclaimer: If someone joins of page 18 or other random page and says, "What's your soil mix. What do I add to get the brix up," or something like that, I'm going to ask them to do some homework on their own. I will not post my soil mix every other page, unless something changes.

Here's a short description of what I mean by High Brix Gardening.

Brix is a unit of measurement that tells us how much sugar, minerals and other dissolved solids that are in a liquid. In our case, the liquid is leaf juice and occasionally a small bud. Average brix for a solid organic grow is going to be 7 to 10. Moderate brix levels clock in at 10-12. Once you get over 12 brix you're in High Brix territory. The highest I've measured to date is 17.

Once brix gets over 12, pests aren't a problem and it is very unlikely any diseases will ruin your crop. The higher the brix, the healthier the plant.

The high changes a bit as well. It's still strong, but its also softer and fuller. I've tried to describe it many times but tonite I'll say it like this:

Let's say you're cold and want to get warm. If you smoke organic or hydro weed, and electric blanket appears and you soon warm up. However, if you had smoked High Brix weed, a thick down comforter appears instead and you soon warm up. If I could get brix over 23, a naked nymph appears with the blanket. So, I've got some work to do. But I digress.

Soil Mix:

ProMix HP
Worm Castings
HIgh Brix amendment

Lot's of microbial products, biochar, humic acids, fishy ferts and groovy foliar sprays, all formulated by a lab for my specific soil.
 
Hey, welcome!

This journal is all about High Brix gardening.

1. foundational minerals
2. trace elements
3. microbial action
4. soil energy

The above is the way to achieve high brix. We test the soil---in this case that mean Promix HP myco. Based on the soil test, a custom amendment containing mostly minerals is added.

A combination of foliar sprays and root drenches are used to enhance and excite the microbial population which then feeds the plants. Everything is in the proper ratio by virtue of the soil test.

Here's page one from the journal:
Disclaimer: If someone joins of page 18 or other random page and says, "What's your soil mix. What do I add to get the brix up," or something like that, I'm going to ask them to do some homework on their own. I will not post my soil mix every other page, unless something changes.

Here's a short description of what I mean by High Brix Gardening.

Brix is a unit of measurement that tells us how much sugar, minerals and other dissolved solids that are in a liquid. In our case, the liquid is leaf juice and occasionally a small bud. Average brix for a solid organic grow is going to be 7 to 10. Moderate brix levels clock in at 10-12. Once you get over 12 brix you're in High Brix territory. The highest I've measured to date is 17.

Once brix gets over 12, pests aren't a problem and it is very unlikely any diseases will ruin your crop. The higher the brix, the healthier the plant.

The high changes a bit as well. It's still strong, but its also softer and fuller. I've tried to describe it many times but tonite I'll say it like this:

Let's say you're cold and want to get warm. If you smoke organic or hydro weed, and electric blanket appears and you soon warm up. However, if you had smoked High Brix weed, a thick down comforter appears instead and you soon warm up. If I could get brix over 23, a naked nymph appears with the blanket. So, I've got some work to do. But I digress.

Soil Mix:

ProMix HP
Worm Castings
HIgh Brix amendment

Lot's of microbial products, biochar, humic acids, fishy ferts and groovy foliar sprays, all formulated by a lab for my specific soil.

:rofl::rofl::rofl: Oh, you are in rare form today....looks good on you, too
 
Beatiful, Doc.
I think your plants are already past that lusty nymph :laughtwo: I´m curious, What´s the maximum brix you have achieved to date?
 
Is that reading from a sugar leaf or bud? Only ask cause id imagine it would show different numbers for the two. Fans would be pointless except maybe during veg? What numbers for fruit (buds) are high brix numbers? Thanks in advance.....
 
From what I've read about brix readings, they are not very useful when you try to compare them to another person's results. There are too many variables. They are best used by the same person throughout a grow, using the same part of the plant, at the same time of day, using the same technique, with the same refractometer. One person's "10", might be another person's "14".

I've wondered if you wash the leaf or bud before taking a brix reading. It seems like, with all the foliar sprays, and the tiny amount of juice from the plant, it could be contaminated by surface residue, altering the reading. Dunno - just speculation.
 
Is that reading from a sugar leaf or bud? Only ask cause id imagine it would show different numbers for the two. Fans would be pointless except maybe during veg? What numbers for fruit (buds) are high brix numbers? Thanks in advance.....

From what I've read about brix readings, they are not very useful when you try to compare them to another person's results. There are too many variables. They are best used by the same person throughout a grow, using the same part of the plant, at the same time of day, using the same technique, with the same refractometer. One person's "10", might be another person's "14".

I've wondered if you wash the leaf or bud before taking a brix reading. It seems like, with all the foliar sprays, and the tiny amount of juice from the plant, it could be contaminated by surface residue, altering the reading. Dunno - just speculation.

There are different ways to do it. The main thing is to use healthy, vibrant leaf tissue, and use some sort of device to thoroughly crush the cell wall of the material being tested.

I take a bud, with the leaves and the nearest petiole and fan leaf. I calibrate my refractometer before using it.

Do it the same way every time and you'll get consistent results that can be very useful, especially when evaluating a new feeding regime or drenching schedule.
 
I have a VitaMix which is a high powered blender I use for making vegan smoothies. I am leading to a question here. This VitaMix will take many varying raw ingredients piled and packed into the container such as dry oats, flax, chia, sunflower, almond, pecan, Kale including the thick part, spinach, Cannabis, bananas, whole apples with stem, oranges, grapes...then spins this into a smooth juice without any fibers or pulp you can feel in your mouth. Is this a device I could use to prepare an amount of Cannabis juice to measure Brix levels properly? Provided I had a recommended refractometer on hand of course.
Also, is there a set method that you could elaborate on, that you use when measuring Brix levels. In other words how do YOU measure Brix levels?
:peace:
 
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